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Holiday Gift Guide - Issue One
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MORE FROM THIS AUTHOR
AARON FLYNN


MORE INFO

Café Bonaparte
1522 Wisconsin Ave., NW
202-333-8830

Food:
Service:
Comfort & Aesthetics:
Value:
Scene:

= Stay home and eat cereal
= Well, if you really must
= Fine for all but the finicky
= Worth more than a 20-minute drive
= As good as you’ll find in this city






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DINING

Café Bonaparte: Ooo la la
There’s a new French restaurant in Georgetown with the best crepes this side of the Atlantic and prices that make Café Bonaparte worth a special trip.

AARON FLYNN
Friday, November 07, 2003

CAFÉ BONAPARTE IN Georgetown definitely got the look of a Parisian café just right.

Nestled among various shops and more notable places to eat on Wisconsin Avenue, it would be easy enough to overlook this quaint little eatery. But a few idiosyncrasies and a truly charming interior help make this restaurant, which opened three months ago, worthy of a special trip.

A smart black espresso bar greets patrons at the entrance. Tasteful café style tables, tucked next to a large picture window or, more intimately, near the back stairs, generate a cozy, yet sophisticated feeling. The red walls and tin ceiling, along with the black-and-white photographs of European street scenes, will tempt more than one diner to don a beret and pencil thin mustache.

Despite the French style, the place is strikingly casual and the service, while friendly, lands on the laidback side of the spectrum. Still, Café Bonaparte is a lovely place for a relaxed afternoon of coffee and pastry, a weekend brunch or — with the place hopping on Fridays and Saturdays until around 4 a.m. — the cap to a late-night excursion.

THE MENU IS brief, but with items you can’t find just anywhere in Washington, it certainly has enough unusual options to entice most anyone. The focus here, of course, is crepes, and the chef skillfully creates each one.

There are no official appetizers on the menu, but the selection of warm, fresh croissants, scones, and salads could nearly qualify. The baked goods are accompanied with one of the restaurant’s specialty coffees or teas served in, of all things, a French press.

Salads at Café Bonaparte’s are less impressive. The lettuce and vegetables were OK and the dressing was palatable, but nothing more.

But the crepes are a whole other matter. The pastry is sweet, light and thin, just as one would hope. The myriad of fillings — some sweet, some not-so-sweet, as they put it — offer a fun and interesting mix of choices.

There’s the Petersburg with ham, parsley, and mushrooms, which makes a unique and satisfying breakfast. The Marseille, my favorite, is filled with tender chicken and hot roasted red pepper crème sauce.

And, of course, there is more traditional breakfast and brunch-type fare. What Sunday would be complete without, at least, the opportunity to order eggs Benedict? Café Bonaparte’s version is respectable, if not exquisite. (I suggest sticking with the crepes.)

Desserts here are heavenly and, of course, we’re still talking crepes. There’s the traditional version, Nutella chocolate, which may be just a bit too rich for most tastes.

The restaurant’s own versions of the French dessert staple are a bit easier to handle. The Josephine mixes Nutella and bananas wonderfully; the Saint Germain, strawberries, almonds, and whipped cream just as effectively.

My favorite, and the dish that seemed to make its way to most every table in the restaurant, was the Lorraine. It’s bursting with sweet, ripe wild berries, whipped crème, and sumptuous vanilla ice cream.

Café Bonaparte is attractive and comfortable, relaxed and, as the night grows old, cozy and even a bit decadent. With pleasing prices and a romantic atmosphere, there are times when you won’t be able to remember how you made it this far without it.

Appetizers range from &2 to $7, entrees from $6 to $8 and desserts $3 to $8.



 

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