I
WAS
PREPARED
for
a
long
and
painful
mourning
period.
Vivo,
a
local
Italian
joint
and
personal
favorite,
had
just
closed
and
I
was
already
missing
its
addictive,
but
apparently,
not
too
lucrative,
pizzas.
But
how
soon
we
forget,
especially
when
the
new
restaurant
to
take
over
the
space
is
so
much
better.
The
remodeling
took
only
a
few
weeks,
but
for
anyone
familiar
with
Komi’s
predecessor,
it’s
not
a
monumental
change.
The
new
look
is
subtle.
The
bars
near
the
back
of
the
place
and
the
front
entrance
are
freshly
tiled
in
warm
mosaics.
The
tables
and
chairs
are
tasteful,
modern
and
clean,
as
is
the
gourd-like
water
pitcher
left
on
each
table
and
the
elegant
silverware
neatly
placed
in
an
“X”
at
each
place
setting.
Perhaps
the
look
is
a
bit
Spartan.
The
empty
cream-colored
walls
do
seem
to
stretch
on
and
on,
but
the
professional
and
friendly
staff
is
as
accommodating
as
can
be.
Once
the
opening
jitters
wear
off
and
things
settle
into
a
groove,
I’d
be
willing
to
bet
the
place
will
run
like
very
friendly
clockwork.
YOU
WOULD
NEVER
think
there
was
some
green
dabbler
in
the
kitchen.
From
bread
and
butter
to
cordials,
it’s
all
inventive
and
masterfully
prepared.
Little
treats
abound:
a
complimentary
little
mug
of
hot,
creamy
cauliflower
soup,
some
plump
icy
cold
grapes
tucked
in
with
the
bread,
or
perhaps
a
homemade
lollipop
(we
got
pomegranate
and
a
surprising
basil)
with
your
bill.
It’s
a
friendly,
charming
touch
and,
what’s
more,
it’s
done
with
a
unique
flare
and
a
sensibility
that’s
all
about
quality.
On
a
low-calorie
kick,
I
was
tempted
to
skip
appetizers
and
just
eat
light;
it
felt
like
the
right
thing
to
do.
Lucky
for
me,
I
had
food
critique
responsibilities,
because
the
appetizers
here
just
shouldn’t
be
missed.
The
pastel-colored
seafood
napoleon
—
slices
of
melon,
Asian
pear,
and
just
a
bit
of
light
cool
salmon
—
is
refreshing
and
light.
The
toe
crab
salad
mixes
seafood
and
fruit,
which
gives
this
little
dish
a
much
richer,
more
powerful
punch
than
you
might
imagine.
Even
my
least
favorite
of
the
appetizers,
scallops
and
wasabi,
warrants
an
honorable
mention.
And
its
presentation,
with
lovely
half
shells
perched
on
shaved
ice,
rivals
the
architecture
of
a
few
area
monuments.
The
appetizers
don’t
ruin
the
rest
of
the
meal
by
building
up
big
expectations
that
aren’t
later
met.
Entrées
run
the
gamut,
from
the
simplest
cheese
pizza
to
an
excellent
little
fish
number
doused
in
a
buttery
lobster
reduction.
And
those
simple
pizzas,
just
perfect
for
one,
can
get
rather
complicated
themselves,
with
toppings
like
grilled
Bluefin
tuna.
Even
the
most
traditional
of
American
favorites
gets
punched
up
with
imaginative
ingredients.
The
hanger
steak
comes
just
lightly
flavored
with
a
cherry
glaze,
all
with
wonderful
results.
Komi’s
dessert
menu
kind
of
depresses
me,
not
because
anything
was
bad
but
because
I
remember
it
so
fondly.
A
person
just
should
not
feel
that
way
about
a
list
of
complex
carbohydrates.
Their
cinnamon
and
sugar
dusted
donuts,
served
with
a
rich
little
bowl
of
Mexican
hot
chocolate
is
the
quintessential
comfort
food.
I
was
nearly
set
to
concoct
my
own
version
the
next
morning
for
a
Sunday
breakfast
in
bed.
There’s
more,
of
course,
including
a
marvelous
chocolate
and
mint
torte.
But
why
ruin
all
the
surprises?
Appetizers
range
from
$5
to
$8;
entrees
from
$11
to
$19,
and
desserts
are
$8.
