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FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2008
 
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Holiday Gift Guide - Issue One
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AARON FLYNN





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Letter to the Editor

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DINING

Double your pleasure
Two successful Washington chefs have teamed up to create Restau-Lounge, a stylish new restaurant perfect for a casual dinner or a night on the town.

AARON FLYNN
Friday, July 18, 2003

I HAVE WATCHED THE TRANSFORMATION of the space at 2030 M St. time and time again. The space has been home to three different restaurants in as many years, which is surprising considering the dozen hotels in the area, including one directly across the street. You’d think there would be an unending flow of uninformed and hungry tourists just waiting to be lured in by a conveniently located bistro.

As the most recent renovations got under way, I fully expected another uninspired restaurant to be unveiled. I was wrong.

Restau-Lounge is the brainchild of two D.C. chef-celebrities. The men behind Trumpets and the wildly popular Gabriel have teamed up (as the David-Greggory in the name indicates) to provide the neighborhood with what’s sure to be a new dining staple. The remodeled space has a California contemporary feel (but in a good way) mixed with a slightly bohemian, artsy sensibility.

In fact, there’s almost as much emphasis on art and style as there is on food and wine. The waiters, for example, wear uniforms created specifically for the restaurant by well-known designer Ted Baker. Also, each menu is different and serves as the frame for an individual lithograph. These touches, the amber lighting, and the location all make this the perfect spot for a late dinner after a night at the theater or a round of drinks with friends after a long day at the office. With all this style, I have to wonder why they settled on the name Restau-Lounge. It sounds like a rest stop on the New Jersey Turnpike.

Restau-Lounge features abundant appetizers along with a less extensive tapas menu. I savored the grilled Moroccan shrimp, which came in a tangy Harissa remoulade, which is code for “incredibly high in calories.” Still, it was worth the health risk. A more healthful option that was nearly as good was the Iroquois corn cake, which was resembled a miniature casserole more than a cake. It was cool and sweet with combinations of avocado, roasted corn and tomato and makes a great choice in the summer heat.

The spring rabbit cassoulet (never mind that it’s July) built on the success of the appetizers. There was none of the proverbial greasiness you typically get with rabbit and the light vegetables, including fava beans, pearl onions, and carrots were sweetly accented with a hint of citrus. The dish is filling yet refreshing — a pleasant surprise for a heavy stew. The grilled salmon was less exciting, but good nonetheless. It comes with the obligatory dill cream sauce and a rather bland side of Basmati rice. More enticing by far was the side of curried spinach.

Desserts are cleverly divided into “chocolate” and “not chocolate” categories. The S’more in Greek’s Clothing — filo pastry surrounding rich soft chocolate and drizzled with marshmallow sauce — is excruciatingly sweet. The white chocolate and coconut layer cake was a little lighter and just as tasty. With an ample wine selection, you won’t go wrong making Restau-Lounge your next stop for a satisfying lunch or dinner.

Appetizers range from $6 to $10. Entrees range from $18 to $28, with several half portions available for $9. Desserts are $8. Restau-Lounge is open for dinner nightly and has a weekday lunch menu, a late night menu, and is open for Sunday brunch.


David Greggory
Restau-Lounge
2030 M St., NW
202-872-8700

Food:
Service:
Comfort & Aesthetics:
Value:
Scene:

0 = Stay home and eat cereal
= Well, if you really must
= Fine for all but the finnicky
= Worth more than a 20-minute drive
= As good as you’ll find in this city



 

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