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Dialing up 901

Gay-owned Penn Quarter restaurant delights with creative entrees

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Mushroom Rahgou, a dish at 901. (Blade photo by Michael Key)

901 Restaurant + Bar (901 9th St., N.W.), is a new Penn Quarter eatery owned by gay D.C. businessman David von Storch. From the moment you step in, you get the sense this won’t be an ordinary dinner, and you’re right. As soon as you arrive, you become a part of the show — a well-choreographed one with moments of unexpected magic and drama.

My partner and I walked in on a Saturday evening. We were whisked to our seats even though another person joining us had not yet arrived. At first, I was disappointed because I was hoping to be seated in the sleek-yet-comfortable waiting area that lurked behind the hostess stand. Our table in the dining area, however, was just as aesthetically pleasing. The dining room is creatively divided into separate eating areas with sheer fabric and lights. From it, you can see the open kitchen with the chefs bustling around. The feel is warm, rich and dramatic.

Envy (Blade photo by Michael Key)

We were delighted by the fact that when you open the menu it lights up. A simple “magic trick” that is both thoughtful and cool. 901 Restaurant + Bar staff brews their own beer so one of us selected the 901 Lager, which was a clean non-hoppy lager that was good but not extraordinary. Two of us selected the “Envy.” When the drinks arrived, the brilliant show continued, because while it is not indicated on the menu, the “Envy” is served over dry ice and arrived at the table bubbling and smoking. The dry ice made this simple-yet-tasty drink noteworthy and I recommend having one just for the fun of it.

The menu is designed for sharing so we selected a few items to split; the Kobe Beef Sliders with smoked cheddar and spicy aioli; the Roasted Hoisin Duck Roll with mozzarella wasabi cilantro sauce and Thai chili crème; the Seared Scallop Risotto with wild mushroom asparagus risotto, bacon jam and sweet soy drizzle; and the Yaki Soba Mushroom Ragout. And since we were having a wide range of foods, we decided to accompany the meal with a white wine — the Trimbach Reserve Pinot Gris.

The Kobe Beef Sliders were light and fluffy, perfectly cooked, though somewhat short on flavor. I hoped to taste some of the smoked cheddar or the spice in the aioli. The scallops were quite good and the risotto they were served over was divine. The duck rolls were delightful with the rich flavor of the meat and warmth of the wasabi sauce and chili cream proving a delightful combination.

The winning dish of the evening was the vegetarian Yaki Soba Mushroom Ragout. It was earthy, rich and perfectly balanced — a real treat that paired perfectly with the crispy citrus flavors of the wine. Overall, a very good meal.

The dessert menu was as tempting as the rest. The dessert sampler had coffee and donuts, cheesecake with sour cherries, caramel and chocolate cake and chocolate chipotle brulee. The two strongest desserts on the plate by far were the cheesecake and the brulee. The rich and creamy cheesecake is made with ricotta and goat cheese; the sour cherry compote, candied orange and black cherry balsamic brought this dessert together perfectly with a delicious melding of flavors in every bite. The brulee, with its mixed berries, hazelnuts, Chantilly cream and strawberry coulis was the other star of the plate. The rich warmth of the chocolate chipotle and the refreshing coolness of the berries was an excellent way to end a meal.

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Eastern Shore chef named James Beard Finalist

Harley Peet creates inventive food in an inclusive space

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Chef Harley Peet works to support the LGBTQ community inside and outside of the kitchen.

In a small Eastern Shore town filled with boutiques, galleries, and the occasional cry of waterfowl from the Chesapeake, Chef Harley Peet is most at home. In his Viennese-inflected, Maryland-sourced fine-dining destination Bas Rouge, Peet draws from his Northern Michigan upbringing, Culinary Institute of America education, and identity as a gay man, for inspiration.

And recently, Peet was named a James Beard Finalist for Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic – the first “Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic” finalist representing the Eastern Shore.

Peet, after graduation from the Culinary Institute of America, took a position as sous chef at Tilghman Island Inn, not far from Bas Rouge. Falling in love with the Eastern Shore, he continued his passion for racing sailboats, boating, gardening, and fishing, and living his somewhat pastoral life as he opened Bas Rouge in 2016 as head chef, a restaurant part of the Bluepoint Hospitality group, which runs more than a dozen concepts in and around Easton, Md.  

Coming from a rural area and being gay, Peet knew he had his work cut out for him. He was always aware that the service and hospitality industry “can be down and dirty and rough.”

 Now as a leader in the kitchen, he aims to “set a good example, and treat people how I want to be treated. I also want to make sure if you’re at our establishment, I’m the first to stand up and say something.” 

The Bas Rouge cuisine, he says, is Contemporary European. “I’m inspired by old-world techniques of countries like Austria, Germany, and France, but I love putting a new spin on classic dishes and finding innovative ways to incorporate the bounty of local Chesapeake ingredients.”

His proudest dish: the humble-yet-elevated Wiener Schnitzel. “It is authentic to what one would expect to find in Vienna, down to the Lingonberries.” From his in-house bakery, Peet dries and grinds the housemade Kaiser-Semmel bread to use as the breadcrumbs.

Peet works to support the LGBTQ community inside and outside of the kitchen. “I love that our Bluepoint Hospitality team has created welcoming spaces where our patrons feel comfortable dining at each of our establishments. Our staff have a genuine respect for one another and work together free of judgment.” 

Representing Bluepoint, Peet has participated in events like Chefs for Equality with the Human Rights Campaign, advocating for LGBTQ rights.

At Bas Rouge, Peet brings together his passion for inclusion steeped in a sustainability ethic. He sees environmental stewardship as a way of life. Peet and his husband have lived and worked on their own organic farm for several years. Through research in Europe, he learned about international marine sourcing. Witnessing the impacts of overfishing, Peet considers his own role in promoting eco-friendly practices at Bas Rouge. To that end, he ensures responsible sourcing commitments through his purveyors, relationships that have helped create significant change in how people dine in Easton.

“I have built great relationships in the community and there’s nothing better than one of our long-standing purveyors stopping in with a cooler of fresh fish from the Chesapeake Bay. This goes especially for catching and plating the invasive blue catfish species, which helps control the species’ threat to the local ecosystem.

Through his kitchen exploits, Peet expressed a unique connection to another gay icon in a rural fine-dining restaurant: Patrick O’Connell, of three Michelin starred Inn at Little Washington. In fact, Peet’s husband helped design some of O’Connell’s kitchen spaces. They’ve both been able to navigate treacherous restaurant-industry waters, and have come out triumphant and celebrated. Of O’Connell, Peet says that he “sees [his restaurants] as canvas, all artistry, he sees this as every night is a show.” But at the same time, his “judgment-free space makes him a role model.”

Being in Easton itself is not without challenges. Sourcing is a challenge, having to either fly or ship in ingredients, whereas urban restaurants have the benefit of trucking, he says. The small town “is romantic and charming,” but logistics are difficult – one of the reasons that Peet ensures his team is diverse, building in different viewpoints, and also “making things a hell of a lot more fun.”

Reflecting on challenges and finding (and creating) space on the Eastern Shore, Peet confirmed how important it was to surround himself with people who set a good example, and “if you don’t like the way something is going … move on.”

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PHOTOS: Night of Champions

Team DC holds annual awards gala

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Team DC President Miguel Ayala speaks at the 2024 Night of Champions Awards on Saturday. (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)

Team DC, the umbrella organization for LGBTQ-friendly sports teams and leagues in the D.C. area, held its annual Night of Champions Awards Gala on Saturday, April 20 at the Hilton National Mall. The organization gave out scholarships to area LGBTQ student athletes as well as awards to the Different Drummers, Kelly Laczko of Duplex Diner, Stacy Smith of the Edmund Burke School, Bryan Frank of Triout, JC Adams of DCG Basketball and the DC Gay Flag Football League.

(Washington Blade photos by Michael Key)

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PHOTOS: National Cannabis Festival

Annual event draws thousands to RFK

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Growers show their strains at The National Cannabis Festival on Saturday. (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)

The 2024 National Cannabis Festival was held at the Fields at RFK Stadium on April 19-20.

(Washington Blade photos by Michael Key)

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