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Hong Kong to San Juan

Zengo gets bold with experimental ‘test kitchen’ offerings

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Zengo, gay news, Washington Blade, dining
Zengo, gay news, Washington Blade, dining

Zengo (Washington Blade photo by Damien Salas)

Every few months the team at Richard Sandoval’s Latin-Asian-inspired restaurant Zengo (701 7th Street NW) features an experimental menu known as its “test kitchen.”

On July 1, Chef de Cuisine Graham Bartlett began serving “Test Kitchen: Hong Kong to San Juan” showcasing plates with the flavors and techniques from these regions. The result was four powerful plates and a few cocktails to complement them. In mid-July, I had the pleasure of being the guest of Sandoval and Bartlett to experience these dishes firsthand.

Hong Kong to San Juan is Sandoval’s fourth test kitchen menu and the specialty plates explore the fusion of these two regions with Zengo’s artful blend of seasonal ingredients and modern preparation. The four dishes that will be offered during dinner service beginning at 5 p.m. (marked on the Zengo menu with a TK) are the Adobo Sweet and Sour BBQ Pork Ribs, the Foie Gras Plantain Mofango Shumai, the Hong Kong Roast Chicken and the Whole Crispy Fried Fish. For dessert, the staff at Zengo will serve the Coconut Tapioca Pudding; the three cocktails available are the Gingered Bourbon, the Lychee Bellini and the Strawberry-Lemon Mojito.

As soon as we were seated we were greeted by our adorable, but visibly nervous, waitress M.G. She immediately admitted she had never, “helped somebody from the media before and hoped that she would do OK.” My husband and I tried to put her at ease and she seemed to calm down once we began asking questions about the dishes we were about to be served.

She recommended we start with the Strawberry-Lemon Mojito with the pork ribs and the Mofongo Shumai small plates. The freshness of the strawberry and mint in the mojitos brought the rich flavors of the paprika, oregano, garlic and vinegar alive in the adobo-seasoned ribs, which were moist and delectable. The foie gras and plantain dumplings were full-bodied and buttery and my husband described them as the “best dumplings he has ever had.”

M.G. returned to the table to check on our progress and see if we were ready for our next course. I wasn’t sure I was ready. While I had tried to prepare myself mentally for a whole fried fish to be placed in front of me, nothing could have prepared me for the beautiful but terrifying dish.

I’ve always been averse to eating food that still looks like an animal, but I figured now was as good a time as any to conquer this aversion. So with some help from our much more relaxed waitress, my husband (who has the same aversion) and I were soon devouring this boldly seasoned, rich and tender fish. The flesh melted in your mouth but the flavors continued into your next bite.

In seconds I had forgotten about the eyes staring at me and teeth threatening me as I slowly brought my fork toward him for the first bite. M.G. suggested pairing the potent gingered bourbon with the fried fish and the chicken. This was the right suggestion because this drink would have overpowered the first two dishes. I found the drink to be a bit heavy on the ginger, and my husband — not a fan of spirits in general — found it to be heavy on the bourbon. Overall, despite some trepidation, we thoroughly enjoyed this dish.

We were completely satisfied with all the selections, yet still excited to experience the Lychee Bellini with sparkling sake, to be paired with the coconut tapioca pudding. While I found the pudding to be the only disappointing and non-cohesive dish on the menu, I absolutely adored the Lychee Bellini with its sweet delicate floral flavor.

With dishes ranging from $7-$20 and drinks from $11-$12, Sandoval and his team provide bold selections to diners willing to try out new and experimental dishes. Richard Sandoval Restaurants is celebrating its 15-year anniversary and the test kitchen is just one of the myriad of ways that Chef Sandoval explores the possibilities and potential of Latin cuisine. Sandoval is definitely not afraid to play with his food.

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Eastern Shore chef named James Beard Finalist

Harley Peet creates inventive food in an inclusive space

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Chef Harley Peet works to support the LGBTQ community inside and outside of the kitchen.

In a small Eastern Shore town filled with boutiques, galleries, and the occasional cry of waterfowl from the Chesapeake, Chef Harley Peet is most at home. In his Viennese-inflected, Maryland-sourced fine-dining destination Bas Rouge, Peet draws from his Northern Michigan upbringing, Culinary Institute of America education, and identity as a gay man, for inspiration.

And recently, Peet was named a James Beard Finalist for Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic – the first “Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic” finalist representing the Eastern Shore.

Peet, after graduation from the Culinary Institute of America, took a position as sous chef at Tilghman Island Inn, not far from Bas Rouge. Falling in love with the Eastern Shore, he continued his passion for racing sailboats, boating, gardening, and fishing, and living his somewhat pastoral life as he opened Bas Rouge in 2016 as head chef, a restaurant part of the Bluepoint Hospitality group, which runs more than a dozen concepts in and around Easton, Md.  

Coming from a rural area and being gay, Peet knew he had his work cut out for him. He was always aware that the service and hospitality industry “can be down and dirty and rough.”

 Now as a leader in the kitchen, he aims to “set a good example, and treat people how I want to be treated. I also want to make sure if you’re at our establishment, I’m the first to stand up and say something.” 

The Bas Rouge cuisine, he says, is Contemporary European. “I’m inspired by old-world techniques of countries like Austria, Germany, and France, but I love putting a new spin on classic dishes and finding innovative ways to incorporate the bounty of local Chesapeake ingredients.”

His proudest dish: the humble-yet-elevated Wiener Schnitzel. “It is authentic to what one would expect to find in Vienna, down to the Lingonberries.” From his in-house bakery, Peet dries and grinds the housemade Kaiser-Semmel bread to use as the breadcrumbs.

Peet works to support the LGBTQ community inside and outside of the kitchen. “I love that our Bluepoint Hospitality team has created welcoming spaces where our patrons feel comfortable dining at each of our establishments. Our staff have a genuine respect for one another and work together free of judgment.” 

Representing Bluepoint, Peet has participated in events like Chefs for Equality with the Human Rights Campaign, advocating for LGBTQ rights.

At Bas Rouge, Peet brings together his passion for inclusion steeped in a sustainability ethic. He sees environmental stewardship as a way of life. Peet and his husband have lived and worked on their own organic farm for several years. Through research in Europe, he learned about international marine sourcing. Witnessing the impacts of overfishing, Peet considers his own role in promoting eco-friendly practices at Bas Rouge. To that end, he ensures responsible sourcing commitments through his purveyors, relationships that have helped create significant change in how people dine in Easton.

“I have built great relationships in the community and there’s nothing better than one of our long-standing purveyors stopping in with a cooler of fresh fish from the Chesapeake Bay. This goes especially for catching and plating the invasive blue catfish species, which helps control the species’ threat to the local ecosystem.

Through his kitchen exploits, Peet expressed a unique connection to another gay icon in a rural fine-dining restaurant: Patrick O’Connell, of three Michelin starred Inn at Little Washington. In fact, Peet’s husband helped design some of O’Connell’s kitchen spaces. They’ve both been able to navigate treacherous restaurant-industry waters, and have come out triumphant and celebrated. Of O’Connell, Peet says that he “sees [his restaurants] as canvas, all artistry, he sees this as every night is a show.” But at the same time, his “judgment-free space makes him a role model.”

Being in Easton itself is not without challenges. Sourcing is a challenge, having to either fly or ship in ingredients, whereas urban restaurants have the benefit of trucking, he says. The small town “is romantic and charming,” but logistics are difficult – one of the reasons that Peet ensures his team is diverse, building in different viewpoints, and also “making things a hell of a lot more fun.”

Reflecting on challenges and finding (and creating) space on the Eastern Shore, Peet confirmed how important it was to surround himself with people who set a good example, and “if you don’t like the way something is going, fuck them and move on.”

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PHOTOS: Night of Champions

Team DC holds annual awards gala

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Team DC President Miguel Ayala speaks at the 2024 Night of Champions Awards on Saturday. (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)

Team DC, the umbrella organization for LGBTQ-friendly sports teams and leagues in the D.C. area, held its annual Night of Champions Awards Gala on Saturday, April 20 at the Hilton National Mall. The organization gave out scholarships to area LGBTQ student athletes as well as awards to the Different Drummers, Kelly Laczko of Duplex Diner, Stacy Smith of the Edmund Burke School, Bryan Frank of Triout, JC Adams of DCG Basketball and the DC Gay Flag Football League.

(Washington Blade photos by Michael Key)

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PHOTOS: National Cannabis Festival

Annual event draws thousands to RFK

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Growers show their strains at The National Cannabis Festival on Saturday. (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)

The 2024 National Cannabis Festival was held at the Fields at RFK Stadium on April 19-20.

(Washington Blade photos by Michael Key)

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