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The perfect slice?

Friday night family pizza tradition got rude awakening outside the Big Apple

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pizza, food, Washington Blade, gay news

Growing up in New York, every Friday night was pizza night with my family.

Each week, a perfect New York-style pizza pie made its way to the kitchen table. Pizza that had the perfect crust; not too thin and not to thick; the right sauce-to-cheese ratio and not swimming in oil. I loved those Friday nights with my family and I still love pizza.

I thought all pizza was perfect, just like the ones that sat in front of me in my youth. The rude awakening arrived when I moved to Boston. My first Friday night alone I called the local pizza parlor and ordered a large pie.

“We don’t sell pie,” said the man on the other end of the line with a chuckle, “We sell pizza.” Before the man could hang up I asked for a large cheese pizza pie, but what eventually arrived at my dorm room didn’t even come close to the perfection I was used to. That’s where my quest for the perfect pizza began, and after 10 years in Boston I never found pizza that met my snobby New York pizza standards.

Now my quest continues in Washington and the perfect pie is still eluding me. Not a single jumbo slice comes close, but they aren’t supposed to; they fill a different pizza niche. Manny and Olga’s on 14th Street serves up a solid pizza, but not perfection. Places like Pi, Pizza No. 17, Pizzeria Paradiso and Matchbox all offer great gourmet pizza options but none are New York-style pizza. So when a coworker said he had some of the best pizza of his life at Menomale Pizza Napoletana (2711 12 Street N.E.), I assembled a group of people and we descended on the Brookland pizza spot on a Friday evening.

Menomale, which means “thank goodness” in Italian, opened this past May and is owned by Italian-born pizza-master Ettore Rusciano and self-proclaimed beer nerd Leland Estes. These guys put together a menu that consists of pizza, calzones and sandwiches made completely with ingredients sourced from the Campania region of Italy.  The beer list is clever and constantly rotating with both bottles and drafts available for patrons.

The accommodating staff offered us a couple of seating options upon our arrival, since seven of us had arrived and the adorable 38-seat restaurant can sit a party of six maximum. However, a cozy option in the back corner allowed us all to enjoy our meal together. We started with the Formaggi Della Casa that had three artisan cheeses, dried fruit, nuts, honey and delicious pizza crust to serve it all on. I devoured the cheeses in minutes leaving very little for the rest of the table, including a “moldy” blue cheese that was exquisite, and I don’t generally like “moldy” cheese.

For the meal I had the Buongustaio Pannuozzo wood fired sandwich with sausage, prosciutto de parma and buffalo mozzarella. The name means tasty sandwich and it was exactly that. The pizzas we tried included the margherita (sometimes the best way to judge a place is with its simplest dish); the Diavola, which has spicy salami and red peppers on top of the buffalo mozzarella and tomatoes; and the Capricciosa, which is mozzarella, San Marzano tomatoes, fresh garlic, salami, artichokes and black olives. We also tried the interesting Patata, which is cream of potato, sausage, black olives, mozzarella and fresh basil. All of these items are cooked in the wood burning pizza oven that Rusciano brought to the U.S. This oven cooks the pizzas at 900 degrees and is one of the largest on the East Coast. It also kind of looks like a cool spaceship, at least to me.

Each of these pizzas is made with high quality, fresh ingredients. The flavor profiles are all interesting and the pies all come to the table piping hot and delicious. Menomale makes gourmet pizzas that are on an equal playing field, if not better than some of the establishments mentioned earlier. Sure, I will still be looking for my perfect New York-style pizza (and bagels, and black and white cookies, and deli sandwiches), but I will still return to Menomale for some gourmet pies every now and again.

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Movies

A ‘Battle’ we can’t avoid

Critical darling is part action thriller, part political allegory, part satire

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Leonardo DiCaprio stars in ‘One Battle After Another.’ (Photo courtesy of Warner Bros.)

When Paul Thomas Anderson’s “One Battle After Another” debuted on American movie screens last September, it had a lot of things going for it: an acclaimed Hollywood auteur working with a cast that included three Oscar-winning actors, on an ambitious blockbuster with his biggest budget to date, and a $70 million advertising campaign to draw in the crowds. It was even released in IMAX. 

It was still a box office disappointment, failing to achieve its “break-even” threshold before making the jump from big screen to small via VOD rentals and streaming on HBO Max. Whatever the reason – an ambivalence toward its stars, a lack of clarity around what it was about, divisive pushback from both progressive and conservative camps over perceived messaging, or a general sense of fatigue over real-world events that had pushed potential moviegoers to their saturation point for politically charged material – audiences failed to show up for it. 

The story did not end there, of course; most critics, unconcerned with box office receipts, embraced Anderson’s grand-scale opus, and it’s now a top contender in this year’s awards race, already securing top prizes at the Golden Globe and Critics’ Choice Awards, nominated for a record number of SAG’s Actor Awards, and almost certain to be a front runner in multiple categories at the Academy Awards on March 15.

For cinema buffs who care about such things, that means the time has come: get over all those misgivings and hesitations, whatever reasons might be behind them, and see for yourself why it’s at the top of so many “Best Of” lists.

Adapted by Anderson from the 1990 Thomas Pynchon novel “Vineland,” “One Battle” is part action thriller, part political allegory, part jet-black satire, and – as the first feature film shot primarily in the “VistaVision” format since the early 1960s – all gloriously cinematic. It unspools a near-mythic saga of oppression, resistance, and family bonds, set in an authoritarian America of unspecified date, in which a former revolutionary (Leonardo DiCaprio) is attempting to raise his teenage daughter (Chase Infiniti) under the radar after her mother (Teyana Taylor) betrayed the movement and fled the country. Now living under a fake identity and consumed by paranoia and a weed habit, he has grown soft and unprepared when a corrupt military officer (Sean Penn) – who may be his daughter’s real biological father – tracks them down and apprehends her. Determined to rescue her, he reconnects with his old revolutionary network and enlists the aid of her karate teacher (Benicio Del Toro), embarking on a desperate rescue mission while her captor plots to erase all traces of his former “indiscretion” with her mother.

It’s a plot straight out of a mainstream action melodrama, top-heavy with opportunities for old-school action, sensationalistic violence, and epic car chases (all of which it delivers), but in the hands of Anderson – whose sensibilities always strike a provocative balance between introspection, nostalgia, and a sense of apt-but-irreverent destiny – it becomes much more intriguing than the generic tropes with which he invokes to cover his own absurdist leanings.

Indeed, it’s that absurdity which infuses “One Battle” with a bemusedly observational tone and emerges to distinguish it from the “action movie” format it uses to relay its narrative. From DiCaprio (whose performance highlights his subtle comedic gifts as much as his “serious” acting chops) as a bathrobe-clad underdog hero with shades of The Dude from the Coen Brothers’ “The Big Liebowski,” to the uncomfortably hilarious creepy secret society of financially elite white supremacists that lurks in the margins of the action, Anderson gives us plenty of satirical fodder to chuckle about, even if we cringe as we do it; like that masterpiece of too-close-to-home political comedy, Stanley Kubrick’s 1964 nuclear holocaust farce “Dr. Strangelove,” it offers us ridiculousness and buffoonery which rings so perfectly true in a terrifying reality that we can’t really laugh at it.

That, perhaps, is why Anderson’s film has had a hard time drawing viewers; though it’s based on a book from nearly four decades ago and it was conceived, written, and created well before our current political reality, the world it creates hits a little too close to home. It imagines a roughly contemporary America ruled by a draconian regime, where immigration enforcement, police, and the military all seem wrapped into one oppressive force, and where unapologetic racism dictates an entire ideology that works in the shadows to impose its twisted values on the world. When it was conceived and written, it must have felt like an exaggeration; now, watching the final product in 2026, it feels almost like an inevitability. Let’s face it, none of us wants to accept the reality of fascism imposing itself on our daily lives; a movie that forces us to confront it is, unfortunately, bound to feel like a downer. We get enough “doomscrolling” on social media; we can’t be faulted for not wanting more of it when we sit down to watch a movie.

In truth, however, “One Battle” is anything but a downer. Full of comedic flourish, it maintains a rigorous distance that makes it impossible to make snap judgments about its characters, and that makes all the difference – especially with characters like DiCaprio’s protective dad, whose behavior sometimes feels toxic from a certain point of view. And though it’s a movie which has no qualms about showing us terrifying things we would rather not see, it somehow comes off better in the end than it might have done by making everything feel safe.

“Safe” is something we are never allowed to feel in Anderson’s outlandish action adventure, even at an intellectual level; even if we can laugh at some of its over-the-top flourishes or find emotional (or ideological) satisfaction in the way things ultimately play out, we can’t walk away from it without feeling the dread that comes from recognizing the ugly truths behind its satirical absurdities. In the end, it’s all too real, too familiar, too dire for us not to be unsettled. After all, it’s only a movie, but the things it shows us are not far removed from the world outside our doors. Indeed, they’re getting closer every day.

Visually masterful, superbly performed, and flawlessly delivered by a cinematic master, it’s a movie that, like it or not, confronts us with the discomforting reality we face, and there’s nobody to save it from us but ourselves.

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Sports

‘Heated Rivalry’ stars to participate in Olympic torch relay

Games to take place next month in Italy

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(Photo courtesy of Crave HBO Max)

“Heated Rivalry” stars Hudson Williams and Connor Storrie will participate in the Olympic torch relay ahead of the 2026 Winter Olympics that will take place next month in Italy.

HBO Max, which distributes “Heated Rivalry” in the U.S., made the announcement on Thursday in a press release.

The games will take place in Milan and Cortina from Feb. 6-22. The HBO Max announcement did not specifically say when Williams and Storrie will participate in the torch relay.

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Bars & Parties

Here’s where to watch ‘RuPaul’s Drag Race’ with fellow fans

Entertainers TrevHER and Grey host event with live performance

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(Photo by New Africa/Bigstock)

Spark Social Events will host “Ru Paul’s Drag Race S18 Watch Party Hosted by Local Drag Queens” on Friday, Jan. 23 at 8 p.m.

Drag entertainers TrevHER and Grey will provide commentary and make live predictions on who’s staying and who’s going home. Stick around after the show for a live drag performance. The watch party will take place on a heated outdoor patio and cozy indoor space.

This event is free and more details are available on Eventbrite.

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