Arts & Entertainment
Unfurling the Quilt
D.C. residents have multiple opportunities to see AIDS memorial in coming weeks
The AIDS Quilt during a previous display in Washington. (Blade file photo)
The 1 million annual visitors to the Smithsonian Folklife Festival have rarely expected to engage in an international discourse about AIDS at the event in the past. This year, however, attendees can tell their own stories regarding HIV/AIDS through a variety of creative outlets and add to the already massive AIDS Memorial Quilt that will blanket part of the National Mall.
For the first time in the festival’s history, the Smithsonian Center of Folklife and Cultural Heritage is collaborating with the NAMES Project Foundation with the program “Creativity and Crisis: Unfolding the AIDS Memorial Quilt.”
The NAMES Project Foundation, established in 1987, is the Atlanta-based international organization that houses and maintains the AIDS Memorial Quilt. About 8,000 of the quilt’s 48,000 panels will be featured at the Folklife Festival to commemorate the quilt’s 25th anniversary and educate visitors about how art has been utilized to address an international epidemic.
“It’s a lovely collaborative effort between the Smithsonian Center of Folklife and Cultural Heritage, who are the presenters along with us,” Julie Rhoad, executive director of the NAMES Project, says. “It’s been a delight working with the curatorial team at the Smithsonian.”
The festival starts Wednesday and will continue through July 1, and will be held again from July 4-8 on the National Mall between 7th and 14th streets. Admission to all events is free. Festival hours are from 11 a.m.-5:30 p.m. each day and special events such as concerts and dance parties begin at 6 p.m.
“Creativity and Crisis: Unfolding the AIDS Memorial Quilt” will include a multitude of craft demonstrations, dance and musical performances, theater, children’s activity areas and interactive discussions that will complement the presence of the quilt at the festival. Many of the featured performances will be by artists who have been affected by HIV and AIDS. Visitors will have the opportunity to help make panels that will be incorporated into the quilt, and to tell their own stories.
“We receive a new panel on the average every day, every year. Right now we have I think several hundred that are already in our possession that during the Folklife Festival we will have Gert, who’s been with us 25 years, bundle and sew them on the National Mall,” Rhoad says. “There’s a whole host of creativity and expression around HIV and AIDS and the domestic and global efforts in expression, all centered and viewed through the lens of what the quilt has done.”
In the event of a rain, the NAMES Project has an expertly organized plan called the “rain fold” to protect the quilt.
“Each time we’ve been in D.C. we’ve had to deploy the plan. Amazingly, what happens is we have plastic and we have a way it gets folded up, then we take it under tents,” Rhoad says. “It’s an amazing thing to see. It’s what happens when you’re in the presence of the quilt.”
In addition to their display at the Folklife Festival, many of the quilt’s 48,000 panels will be on the National Mall again from July 21-25 during the start of the International AIDS Conference. About 40 locations throughout the Washington metropolitan area will also display portions of the quilt through July 27. Visit quilt2012.org for more details on when and where the quilt will be displayed in the area.
“It’s important to work as hard as we can to get to D.C. and to make this display a reality. It certainly gets people talking. It certainly calls on society to really think about our humanity and to really think about our connection to one another,” Rhoad says. “What a gift to be on the Smithsonian stage.”
The NAMES Project staff deeply appreciates support from festival visitors for their cause.
“Support comes in many ways — time, talent, treasure. Each is valued by us,” Rhoad says. “It takes a great deal of support to move the quilt to D.C. It takes even more to get it ready for its next adventure.”
The Smithsonian and NAMES Project have collaborated with one another exceptionally well, revealing the power of cooperation in addressing a vital cause.
“The quilt is the ultimate in folk art. It is done by everybody. These are not professional quilters for the most part,” Arlene Reiniger, the Smithsonian’s curator for “Creativity and Crisis: Unfolding the AIDS Memorial Quilt,” says. “It’s been wonderful working with the NAMES Project Foundation. They are the ones with the knowledge behind the quilt, the knowledge and resources. What we do is work with them to translate all of this information into a festival program.”
For more information on “Creativity and Crisis: Unfolding the AIDS Memorial Quilt,” visit festival.si.edu.
Celebrity News
Fashion icon Bob Mackie dead at 87
Designing legend to all the divas, gone but not forgotten
To those still reeling from the loss of Dolly Parton and Tim Curry, we have another queer icon to add to the In Memoriam of 2026: Bob Mackie. A designer known for being extra, before that was even a thing, has left us with a legacy of looks and an indelible mark on fashion.
The news broke on his Instagram account Monday, Sept. 14, with the message:
“It is with a heavy heart that we share the news that Mr. Bob Mackie passed away today. He lived his 87 years to the fullest, fulfilling his dream of being a fashion and costume designer, which is all he ever wanted to do. His genius and extraordinary designs will live on forever, continuing to bring beauty into this world.” According to People magazine, he passed away in Palm Springs, Calif., due to pneumonia.
At 87, Mackie is the definitive designer for divas. Mackie has literally dressed them all, including Diana Ross, Whitney Houston, Barbara Streisand, Dolly Parton, Tina Turner, Bette Midler, Bernadette Peters, and even RuPaul. He’s dressed film and television icons like Raquel Welch, Lynda Carter, Goldie Hawn, and Jennifer Lopez. It’s not just female divas; he’s also done many of Elton John’s famous costumes as well as David Bowie’s.
His first major mark was drawing the first design of Marilyn Monroe’s famous “Happy Birthday, Mr. President” dress. Next, he was an assistant to costume designer Ray Aghayan on “The Judy Garland Show.” The two would carry on a professional and romantic partnership for 50 years until Aghayan’s passing in 2011.
Mackie then went on to do all of the costumes for “The Carol Burnett Show,” creating an estimated 17,000 costumes for her show’s 11-year run. This gave him much critical acclaim and notoriety, making him a permanent fixture in the variety show market.
He became a frequent collaborator of Cher, having made her famous midriff-revealing Oscar gown, her “If I Could Turn Back Time” costume, and being her designer for her various television shows, including “The Sonny and Cher Show.” He even designed costumes for her Farewell Tour. The two are synonymous with him having lent his artistic sensibilities to give her a distinct look. Cher even said in 2024, “He helped me create a different me.”
Mackie has left his mark on fashion with a distinct style of glamorous, over-the-top looks. He received the monikers the “Sultan of Sequins,” the “Rajah of Rhinestones,” and the “Guru of Glitter” for challenging the line between costume and fashion with lots of fringe, flash, and over-the-top eye-catching elements. He’s managed to retain a presence not just in entertainment but in the fashion industry for decades. Most recently, one of his outfits was a major plot point for the final season of “Hacks.”
Mackie has received his share of awards and acknowledgments. In addition to dressing many people for the Oscars, he received three nominations, including dressing Diana Ross for “Lady Sings the Blues.” He won a Tony Award for “The Cher Show.” He won nine Emmy Awards and received 30 nominations for his prolific television work.
Luckily, Mackie’s life was celebrated before his passing, receiving various Lifetime achievement awards including the Geoffrey Beene CFDA Lifetime Achievement Award, being honored by the Television Hall of Fame, and receiving “RuPaul’s Drag Race”‘s Giving Us Life-time Achievement Award. He was the first guest judge on the popular series.
It’s clear that not only was Mackie talented, he was magical. He gave a bit of stardust to countless celebrities, luminaries, and public figures with looks that not only defied expectations but managed to be truly spectacular. He’s part of the glitz we think of when we think of Hollywood, and while often elaborate costumes, the shrewd fashion sense and elegance cannot be denied. Mackie will be missed, but his work lives on in the countless pieces still in circulation and forever captured on film and in media.
The 29th annual SMYAL Fall Brunch was held at the Marriott Marquis on Sunday, Sept. 13.
(Washington Blade photos by Michael Key)
Books
Dolly Parton biography puts her hardships into context
‘Ain’t Nobody’s Fool’ a highly researched tome not to be missed
‘Ain’t Nobody’s Fool: The Life and Times of Dolly Parton’
By Martha Ackmann
c.2026, St. Martin’s Press
$30/304 pages
Not too bright.
That’s what people once thought about you. Your language didn’t conform, you had your own sense of style, and you were ignorant about modern things and places and foods. But you were no dummy. You were different, and you had a secret: as in the new biography, “Ain’t Nobody’s Fool: The Life and Times of Dolly Parton” by Martha Ackmann, you knew exactly where you were going.
When Avie Lee Owens and Lee Parton first married, they had the very basics: “two knives, two forks, two spoons, a skillet, a butcher knife, and an old iron kettle.” He was 17; she was 15. Babies came quick. The fourth one was named Dolly, after two great-aunts.
Almost from the time she could walk, Dolly sang. Before she was old enough to attend school, she wrote poetry, and she’d begun to notice rhythms and beats she could make with her fingers. As a schoolchild, she created her own musical instruments out of scraps, and she was eager to perform whenever anyone asked her – and they asked often, because Dolly Parton was a nice girl, and her sense of humor conveyed a warmth that drew people in.
Growing up in the Tennessee mountains, Parton was independent, shunning marriage and child-raising, instead focusing on a dream of being a star. By the time she was in high school, she’d had a regular gig on local television but she recognized that there were few opportunities for fame in the mountains, so she left for Nashville the day after high school graduation, with the snickers of naysayers ringing in her ears.
She stayed with an aunt and uncle there, and she beat the streets, dined on grocery store samples to get by, and missed her family and friends. And they worried about her, but they knew nothing would derail her plans. They knew Dolly would be fine.
As a friend said, “’She had her head on pretty good.’”
Chances are that if you’ve listened to music any time in the last 60 years, you’ve heard Dolly Parton through her words or her music or both. Now you need to learn more about her, and “Ain’t Nobody’s Fool” is where to do it.
Here’s a biography that grabs you on the first page with the tiniest bit of family tree, but not so much that you get bored with it. Author Martha Ackmann writes about Dolly Parton’s early life, putting hardships and experiences in context, both personally and historically. There are name-drops, but not overly so, as Ackmann takes you through Parton’s career, her heartbreaks, her marriage, and her years with Porter Wagoner, in detail but not dramatically embellished or outrageously told. It’s a biography that’s just right, sourced well and written with a fresh take that, like its subject, tells a good story.
Fans, of course, will want this highly researched book but music lovers of any age or type will eat it up. That means you, so use up that Christmas gift certificate. “Ain’t Nobody’s Fool” just shines.
The Blade may receive commissions from qualifying purchases made via this post.
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Historiography with heart
