Arts & Entertainment
Presidential sweet
Teddy a tasty follow-up to Lincoln
Teddy and the Bully Bar (1200 19th Street, N.W.). (Photo courtesy Teddy and the Bully Bar)
The same visionary who brought us Lincoln Restaurant (1110 Vermont Ave., N.W.) is back with another. Teddy and the Bully Bar (1200 19th Street, N.W.) doesn’t quite scream Roosevelt to the degree that its predecessor conjures Honest Abe, but it’s still a fun concept with rich offerings served in the oh-so-D.C.-style of small — and I do mean small — plates.
Owner Alan Popovsky, a political science major in college, unveiled Teddy last month in the former site of Sam and Harry’s Steakhouse, which boasts 230 seats, an in-house bakery and quirky contributions from about 50 local artists. Designer Maggie O’Neill makes clever use of the theme with the “rock wall,” created from small Mount Rushmore replicas.
Roosevelt was an avid hunter and outdoorsman, so it’s no surprise that Executive Chef Michael Hartzer has incorporated wild game into the menu. Mixologist John Hogan has developed a distinctive cocktail program to complement the cuisine through the use of homemade tonics, syrups and bitters. And there’s even a gay member of the management staff, Justin Gulledge, assistant general manager.
His favorite thing about his new position is making sure every guest is content, as well as seeing his regulars who come in multiple times per week and enjoy a great meal. Gulledge was a server at Lincoln before taking this promotion. He says his experience on the floor helped prepare him for management, but the need to multitask and help out all his servers at the same time is his biggest challenge.
He adjusted with help from General Manager Romeo Santos III. Gulledge is a huge fan of the rich food served at Teddy and the Bully Bar; his favorites include the fried fish sandwich with spicy mayo and peppers on the lunch menu and the mac and cheese with three cheeses. He says everyone needs to try the peaches-and-goat cheese salad. With this in mind, I gathered a group to give it a try.
Safari Sangria. (Photo courtesy Teddy and the Bully Bar)
It turned out to be my usual dining gaggle plus one of my groomsman who happened to be visiting. We entered Teddy and the Bully Bar after a long day in the sun. We needed something to cool us down and the waiter recommended The Safari Sangria with Veev Acai (a spirit), Vinho Verde (a Portuguese wine), sage, apple, grapefruit and sweet lime foam. From the moment we took a sip of this glorious concoction we trusted our waiter wholeheartedly and not once did he steer us wrong.
Oyster Bay Fritters. (Photo courtesy Teddy and the Bully Bar)
We enjoyed the spectacular basket of fresh made breads accompanied by butters and jams, the delectable Havana croquettes with a green pepper sauce that I was tempted to lick off the plate, and the wonderful oyster bay fritters that were beer battered and had the perfect amount of heat from the chili peppers. The grilled romaine salad and the peaches and goat cheese were also favorites at the table; Gulledge was definitely correct with his recommendation of this dish.
The golden potato puree and the Teddy Macaroni and Cheese were also enjoyable, although the portion was so small we needed to order seconds so the entire table could have a spoonful of each. The small plates here — as with Lincoln — are quite small, so plan accordingly. Even if your waiter tells you they’re suitable to share, you may want to order a couple extras to satiate your hunger. Nothing spoils a tasty meal like the urge to order a pizza when you get home.
The fried chicken, which Chef Hartzer says was Roosevelt’s favorite dish, had a crispy coating and the chicken was tender and juicy.
One standout dish rose above the rest — the crab and avocado with charred corn. The layered dish with fresh cool avocado and rich sweet crab was perfectly balanced, flavorful and refreshing, an excellent summer dish. Be sure to try it if you go.
Popovsky has brought another great concept restaurant to the District and with the help of Hartzer and Hogan, there’s a food and beverage menu full of tantalizing treats. The waitstaff, led by Santos and Gulledge, is customer focused and doesn’t disappoint.
The 2024 Winchester Pride festival was held on the grounds of the Museum of the Shenandoah Valley in Winchester, Va. on Saturday, Oct. 5. Performers included LaLa Ri of “RuPaul’s Drag Race.”
(Washington Blade photos by Michael Key)
Star of “Pose” Dominique Jackson was the special guest at the vogue party “Kunty” on Saturday, Oct. 5 at Bunker. DJ Mascari provided the music.
(Washington Blade photos by Michael Key)
Theater
‘Acting their asses off’ in ‘Exception to the Rule’
Studio production takes place during after-school detention
‘Exception to the Rule’
Through Sunday, October 27
Studio Theatre
1501 14th St. NW, Washington, D.C.
$40-$95
Studiotheatre.org
After-school detention is a bore, but it’s especially tiresome on the last day of classes before a holiday.
In Dave Harris’s provocative new play “Exception to the Rule” (now at Studio Theatre) that’s just the case.
It’s Friday, and the usual suspects are reporting to room 111 for detention before enjoying the long MLK weekend. First on the scene are blaring “bad girl” Mikayla (Khalia Muhammad) and nerdy stoner Tommy (Stephen Taylor Jr.), followed by mercurial player Dayrin (Jacques Jean-Mary), kind Dasani (Shana Lee Hill), and unreadable Abdul (Khouri St.Surin).
The familiar is jaw-droppingly altered by the entrance of “College Bound Erika” (Sabrina Lynne Sawyer), a detention first timer whose bookworm presence elicits jokes from the others: What happened? You fail a test?
Dasani (who’s teased for being named for designer water) dubs Erika “Sweet Pea” and welcomes her to the rule-breaking fold. Together the regulars explain how detention works: The moderator, Mr. Bernie, shows up, signs their slips, and then they go. But today the teacher is tardy.
As they wait, the kids pass the time laughing, trash talking, flirting, and yelling. When not bouncing around the classroom, Dayrin is grooming his hair, while Dasani endlessly reapplies blush and lip gloss. At one point two boys almost come to blows, nearly repeating the cafeteria brawl that landed them in detention in the first place.
It’s loud. It’s confrontational. And it’s funny.
Erika is naively perplexed: “I thought detention was quiet. A place where everyone remembers the mistakes that got them here and then learns how to not make the same mistakes again.”
For room 111, the only connection to the outside world is an increasingly glitchy and creepy intercom system. Announcements (bus passes, the school’s dismal ranking, the impending weekend lockdown, etc.) are spoken by the unseen but unmistakably stentorian-voiced Craig Wallace.
Dave Harris first conceived “Exception to the Rule” in 2014 during his junior year at Yale University. In the program notes, the Black playwright describes “Exception to the Rule” as “a single set / six actors on a stage, just acting their asses off.” It’s true, and they do it well.
Miranda Haymon is reprising their role as director (they finely helmed the play’s 2022 off-Broadway debut at Roundabout Theatre Company in New York). Haymon orchestrates a natural feel to movement in the classroom, and without entirely stilling the action on stage (makeup applying, scribbling, etc.), the out director gives each member of the terrific cast their revelatory moment. In a busy room, we learn that Tommy’s goofiness belies trauma, that Mikayla is admirably resourceful, and most startling, why Erika, the school’s top student, is in detention.
Mr. Bernie is clearly a no-show. And despite his absence, the regulars are bizarrely loath to leave the confines of 111 for fear of catching yet another detention. Of course, it’s emblematic of something bigger. Still, things happen within the room.
While initially treated as a sort of mascot, awkwardly quiet Erika becomes rather direct in her questions and observations. Suddenly, she’s rather stiffly doling out unsolicited advice.
It’s as if an entirely new person has been thrown into the mix.
Not all of her guidance goes unheeded. Take fighting for instance. At Erika’s suggestion, St.Surin’s Abdul refrains from kicking Dayrin’s ass. (Just feet from the audience gathered for a recent matinee in Studio’s intimate Mead Theatre, Abdul’s frustration resulting from anger while yearning for a world of principled order is palpable as evidenced when a single tear rolled down the actor’s right cheek)
Set designer Tony Cisek renders a no-frills classroom with cinder block walls, a high and horizontal row of frosted fixed windows that become eerily prison like when overhead fluorescent lighting is threateningly dimmed.
Still, no matter how dark, beyond the classroom door, a light remains aglow, encouraging the kids to ponder an exit plan.
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