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Fresh and fabulous

Local chef shares tips from new book

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Jonathan Bardic, gay news, Washington Blade
Jonathan Bardzic, gay news, Washington Blade

Jonathan Bardzic says ideal recipes use fresh, local ingredients that are easy to find. (Photo by Matt Hocking)

Jonathan Bardzik’s joy for both cooking and life is absolutely palpable, whether you’ve seen one of his weekly cooking demonstrations at local farmers markets or read either of his cookbooks, “Simple Summer” or “Seasons to Taste.”

A self-described “passionate home cook,” Bardzik’s professional culinary career took its first experimental steps nearly five years ago when he set out on a hot July morning to demonstrate recipes at Capitol Hill’s historic Eastern Market. Working on a patch of dirt — and without a tent — Bardzik recalls, “By the end of the demo I was icing down bowls that had gotten so hot in the sun they were wilting salad greens on contact.”

Since then, Bardzik has invested in a tent to shield himself and his food from the weather but, more importantly, he’s built a career that is distinctly connected to interacting with the farmers market shoppers who stop by to watch him cook — usually at Eastern Market, but also at Bloomingdale Farmers Market and many others along the East Coast.

“I do most of my cooking outside on a sidewalk with just a knife, a cutting board and a camp stove,” he says. “Every recipe I develop is sampled by 60 or more people who take home recipe cards. If a recipe doesn’t work or is too complicated, I know about it.”

Because Bardzik’s recipes are almost entirely made with ingredients that come directly from the farmers markets where he’s cooking, it means that the ingredients are truly accessible to his audience — no need to search far and wide for odd items, which means that Bardzik’s recipes really can be replicated at home, a distinct nod to the chef’s own origins as a home cook.

“This is not just my vocation,” he says, “it is truly my passion.”

Cooking for his husband Jason and extended family is clearly both a joy and a passion that is evident in Bardzik’s new cookbook, “Seasons to Taste: Farm Fresh Joy for Kitchen & Table” (Story Farm, 2015).

“I think that being gay has offered me a special appreciation for the importance of the people who give our lives meaning — both the families we are born into and the ones we choose,” he says. “I see cooking and sharing food as a way to celebrate and nurture those relationships and to share joy.”

Peppered throughout with stories about recipes inspired by family gatherings and dinner parties with friends, “Seasons to Taste” explores how to get the best flavor out of seasonal foods, such as the delicate asparagus of early spring, an experience which Bardzik recalls fondly.

“Jason and I joyfully eat it every night only to find, two weeks later, the newness wearing off … but we eat every last stem, knowing it will be 10-and-a-half months before fresh, crisp, sugary asparagus returns to the market.”

Bardzik acknowledges that we can buy asparagus all year in most grocery stores, yet also seeks to remind us that utterly fresh local asparagus, available just a scant six weeks each spring, has a sweetness that can only be tasted in its own season; by enjoying it seasonally, we learn to truly appreciate its flavor.

While Bardzik typically does not do outdoor market demonstrations during the winter months, he’ll certainly be cooking up seasonal recipes, such as a rich tomato-based Andouille Swordfish Stew and a surprisingly light Celery Root Soup with Bacon & Apple.

“I love winter farm markets,” he says. “First, short days and cold weather make us desperate for fresh food and this is where you’ll find it. Second, there’s something fun and exciting about winter market-fresh food. Everyone can make a summer tomato taste great, but working with winter root vegetables, greens and slow-cooked roasts and braises gives a special kind of sense of accomplishment.”

 

RECIPES: 

From Jonathan Bardzik’s “Seasons to Taste: Farm Fresh Joy for Kitchen & Table” (Story Farm, 2015) (reprinted with permission)

With New Year’s Eve on the horizon, Bardzik recommends his Celery Root Soup recipe as one that is worthy of your best china and linens, but isn’t fussy in the kitchen, while the Andouille Swordfish Stew is a perfect one-pot meal for a lazy evening watching the ball drop on television.

“New Year’s Eve demands menus that work well whether you’re hosting a glitzy affair or an easy gathering of old friends,” Bardzik says. “Roasting or braising meats develops depth of flavor without a lot of last minute prep while your guests are in the other room sipping champagne.”

Celery Root Soup with Bacon & Apple

Serves six-eight

Creamy and rich, with a bright hint of celery and almost no cream. The garnishes take this soup from good to spectacular.

Ingredients:
2 strips thick cut bacon, diced
4 shallots, minced
1 large celery root, diced
1 clove garlic, minced
8 cups vegetable stock, divided
2 tbs cream
2 tbs butter
Sherry vinegar
White pepper
Pinch nutmeg
1 tart apple cut in thin matchsticks
1 rib celery, thinly sliced
Celery leaves, chopped

Directions:

Place bacon in a 4 quart stock pot over medium-low heat. Cook until bacon is brown and fat is rendered.  Remove bacon with slotted spoon and place on paper towel to drain.

Add shallots to pan with bacon fat and sauté over medium heat until soft. Add celery root and cook additional 3-5 minutes. Add garlic and cook 1 minute until fragrant.

Add 2 cups stock and stew, partially covered, for 5-7 minutes.

Add remaining stock and simmer 10-15 minutes longer until celery root is soft.

Process soup with an immersion blender or food processor until smooth.

Return soup to pot and warm to a simmer over medium heat.

Remove the soup from heat and stir in the cream and butter. Season to taste with salt, white pepper, nutmeg and vinegar.

Serve garnished with apple matchsticks, celery, celery leaves and crumbled bacon.

Tip: White pepper has a lighter, more floral flavor than black peppercorns, making it a perfect pairing with the light, starchy flavor of celery root. Just like black, white pepper is best freshly ground.

Andouille Swordfish Stew

Serves six

Bright with tomatoes, hearty from meaty swordfish, with just the right touch of heat from spicy Andouille sausage, this lighter alternative to beef stew sacrifices none of the satisfaction.

Ingredients:

4 tbs olive oil, divided
1 Andouille sausage, quartered and cut in 1/2” slices
2 medium onions, halved and thinly sliced
3 cloves garlic, minced
4 cups fingerling potatoes, cut in 1” pieces
1 1/2 cups dry white wine
1 14 ounce can San Marzano or other plum tomatoes
3 bay leaves
1 tbs dried oregano
1 1/2 pounds swordfish steak, 1” thick, skinned and cut in 1” cubes
2 tbs chopped rosemary, divided

Directions:

Warm 2 tbs olive oil in a heavy bottomed soup pot over medium heat. Add sausage and cook until browned. Remove with slotted spoon.

Add onions and cook until softened and beginning to brown. Add garlic and cook 1 minute longer.

Add potatoes and cook for five minutes.

Add wine, partially cover, and stew until liquid is reduced by half.

Add tomatoes, bay leaves, oregano and cooked sausage. Cover and cook until potatoes are easily split with a knife, about 10-20 minutes.

Add swordfish and stir in 1 tbs rosemary. Cover and cook 10-12 minutes until fish is cooked through.

Stir in remaining 2 tbs olive oil and 1 tbs rosemary, and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Tip: Adding some of the rosemary earlier in the cooking gives mellow depth to the dish while sprinkling in a bit more at the end lends a bright, piney punch.

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Dining

Union Market’s Last Call Bar a welcoming oasis for all

Mixologist Britt Weaver expresses her pride and identity every day

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Britt Weaver is head mixologist at Last Call Bar.

Amid the development of the fast-growing Union Market district, spanning dozens of eateries (including a duo of Michelin stars), embracing and inclusive spaces are tough to come by. Last Call Bar is one of those — and head mixologist and proud member of the LGBTQ community Britt Weaver is making sure this divey spot stays that way.

While buzzy restaurants take the spotlight, Weaver and Last Call are embracing the different.

“I’ve made it a personal mission to ensure that the bar continues to be a place where everyone feels welcomed and accepted,” she says. “Being behind the bar, I see a lot of people — I try to make sure every guest feels safe, seen, and cared for when they visit.”

Last Call exudes a laid-back spirit, aiming to fill that neighborhood-style gap that might be missing among prix-fixe tasting menus and shiny boutiques. Eccentric décor that includes painted lockers, old posters hung from the ceiling, artfully peeling paint, and arcade games feeds into the homey spirit. Patrons are welcome to bring in stickers and slap them on the bar, adding even more personality to the space.

Launched in 2019 serving sub-$10 drinks and having survived the pandemic, Last Call still maintains an unconventional vibe that extends to the menu. It’s one of the few bars that serves flavor-changing Jello shots, with the option to add nostalgia-inducing pop rocks; as well as an hour-long “teeny tiny ‘tini hour” for those who want a taste but not an entire glassful of liquor. Keeping things cool: koozies are also for sale. The food menu’s grown since opening, with sandwiches in addition to bags of chips and shareable dips.

Last Call welcomed Weaver in 2023. While working as a bartender during grad school, Weaver was drawn to the excitement of the bar scene. After COVID, she says, she leaned into her career in the hospitality industry.

In the freewheeling, demanding bartending industry, Weaver has fought to be seen.

“Previous jobs and ownership teams have urged me to conceal my identity, but that is something I refuse to do. It is so incredibly important for me to be able to express my pride and identity every day,” she says.

Last Call has a pedigree from its ally owner Gina Chersevani, who also runs decade-old Buffalo and Bergen stall inside Union Market and a sister Buffalo and Bergen on Capitol Hill. Chersevani is deeply rooted in the D.C. hospitality industry, which Weaver says has a culture that celebrates creativity and expression.

Chersevani ensures that “I’ve been celebrated and encouraged to express my identity,” says Weaver. “She has given me the freedom to cultivate a space that is welcoming of the LGBTQ+ community while also still remaining true to the Last Call spirit.” This year, during Pride month, Chersevani launched a Pride punch card, in which patrons who visited all of her spots won free drinks.

Weaver further notes that being proud of her identity and committing to it behind the bar and in the fast-paced service industry “opens more space for other LGBTQ+ industry members to feel safe to express their own identities. Visibility is so critical in making safe spaces for the queer community.”

Looking forward, Weaver remains steadfast in her commitment to learning and growing in the space and in D.C. She promises that Last Call Bar has plenty of events and programming, new cocktail menus, and a welcoming community spirit.

To celebrate the summer, Weaver offered a cocktail recipe to have at home with friends: Strawberry Piña Colada.

Ingredients

· 2 ounces silver rum

· 1 ounce strawberry purée

· 1 ounce fresh pineapple juice

· 1 ounce coconut milk

· .5 ounce lime juice

Combine all ingredients, then shake. Serve in a Collins glass, over crushed ice, and

garnish as desired.

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Dining

RAMMYs honors restaurant industry professionals

A busy summer for D.C.’s dining scene

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D.C.’s Summer Restaurant Week runs from Monday, Aug. 12, through Sunday, Aug. 18.

Representing the ever-growing, increasingly recognized restaurant industry in Washington, D.C., the Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington (RAMW) held its first-ever RAMMYs Honors Event on June 18 in the lower level of the Watergate Hotel. Restaurant and hospitality industry professionals, leaders, and community members gathered to celebrate RAMMY special distinctions. 

The event took place as an extension of the traditional RAMMY Awards Gala, which honors “the exceptional ability and accomplishments” of the region’s restaurants and foodservice community. The 42nd Annual RAMMY Awards Gala will take place on Sunday, July 21, at the Walter E. Washington Convention Center.

The RAMMYs Honors event kicked off with a cocktail hour, and was hosted by author, seasoned democratic strategist, and co-host of MSNBC’s The Weekend, Symone Sanders Townsend.

While there were several awards presented, this inaugural event only held onto one announcement until the event itself: the RAMMYS Joan Hisaoka Allied Member of the Year Winner, presented to an associate member who best exemplifies commitment to and support of RAMW. This year, the Carlos Rosario International Public Charter School won, a school supporting adult immigrants that includes a culinary arts program.

Other honors that evening included the Duke Zeibert Capital Achievement Award Winner, which was given to Greater Washington Partnership CEO Kathy E. Hollinger “for her excellence and community leadership, increasing the profile and success of the metropolitan Washington foodservice community.” Prior to joining the Partnership, Hollinger was president and CEO of RAMW. Hollinger sat for a wide-ranging interview on stage with Sanders Townsend, who is married to Shawn Townsend current president and CEO of the RAMW. 

Finally, the 2024 Honorary Milestone RAMMY Award recipients were also honored, celebrating a significant number of years serving locals and visitors in Metropolitan Washington: The Dubliner (50 years), Black’s Bar & Kitchen (25 years), Equinox on 19th (25 years), KAZ Sushi Bistro (25 years), Marcel’s (25 years), and Passage to India (25 years).

As the restaurant industry grows in the city, for the first-time, the RAMMYS Honors event allowed for a unique opportunity to highlight a range of special distinctions determined by RAMW’s executive committee. Instead of being public-facing, the Honors were dedicated to industry professionals, to give extra attention and the spotlight to those that often get overlooked at the main RAMMYs Gala. These awards were chosen by RAMW’s executive committee whereas the other awards, given at The RAMMYS, are chosen by both the public and an anonymous panel of judges.

Summer, traditionally a slower time for the restaurant industry, means that RAMW is pulling out the stops for diners to try out new and favorite spots across the area.

First, finalists for Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington’s 2024 Wine Program of the Year will take part in promotions planned for the second week of July. From Monday, July 8, through Sunday, July 14, the region’s top wine programs will showcase their outstanding varietals and pours. The 2024 Wine Program of the Year Finalists include: Apero (Dupont Circle), Era (Mt. Ranier), Irregardless (H Street), Lulu’s Wine Garden (Shaw), and St. Anselm (Union Market). Each will have discounts, tasting parties, special blends, flights, and other ways to savor the area’s top wines.

Finally, the season also sees the return of Summer Restaurant Week, celebrating the region’s restaurant industry from Monday, Aug. 12, through Sunday, Aug. 18. Participating restaurants will offer multi-course brunch and lunch menus with updated tiered pricing for $25 or $35 per person, and multi-course dinner menus for $40, $55, or $65 per person for on-premises dining. Many restaurants will also offer cocktail, wine, and non-alcoholic pairings.

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Behind the bar with Moon Rabbit’s Thi Nguyen

Cocktails work in harmony with thoughtfully executed Vietnamese dishes

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Moon Rabbit’s Thi Nguyen

Thi Nguyen’s hands move purposely behind the bar, her all-business, cobalt blue nails gleaming under the warm lighting of recently relocated – and highly celebrated – Moon Rabbit. A dash of simple syrup infused with pandan – a shrub native to Southeast Asia with vanilla-scented leaves – moves deftly in her hands to lightly spice a cocktail that will soon receive another kick from ginger bitters.

Nguyen, Moon Rabbit’s celebrated bar manager, cannot be accused of holding back flavors from her drinks. Nor can she hold back her identity and her journey. Her journey from Saigon to Maryland to California and finally to D.C., but also her journey as a proudly out lesbian, unafraid to bring her whole self to all her pours.

Boundaries, borders, conventions: these matter little to Nguyen, who left several homes to finally find herself where she’s most comfortable, and where she acts as a leader and mentor for others to do the same. Just as she doesn’t hide her identity, she also doesn’t hide that her cocktails complement Moon Rabbit’s vibrant, contemporary Vietnamese cuisine. Owner/chef Kevin Tien pays tribute to his heritage as a first-generation Asian American, using Moon Rabbit as a platform for expressing his love for Vietnamese culture and food through a determinedly modern lens.

Her cocktails, then, work in harmony with thoughtfully executed dishes like chewy rice cakes under a tofu crumble and cured egg, deconstructed crab Rangoon, and wagyu-stuffed perilla leaves brightened by fermented honey.

Sitting with the chefs and acclaimed owner Kevin Tien, “we begin by exploring cookbooks together,” in a collaborative process, “to find inspiration and potential flavor combinations. It involves a lot of research and development, trial and error, experimentation, and technique.”

“And while this sometimes leads to failures, it ultimately helps us discover the perfect pairings.”

Her menu arrives without flavor hesitations. Cocktail names are given in both English and Vietnamese (as are the dishes), a signal that she is asking diners and drinkers to join her and trust her as unapologetic about her Vietnamese craft. 

The Hết Nước Chấm (Out of Dipping Sauce) drink is composed of vodka, passionfruit liqueur, a squeeze of lemon, and a simple syrup based on nước chấm– also known as fish sauce. While nodding to the popularity of the savory martini, this cocktail also reflects the ubiquity of fish sauce on the Moon Rabbit menu and across Southeast Asia.

Other ingredients? Sesame oil, coconut milk, palm syrup, and chrysanthemum all show up in various drinks, alcoholic or otherwise. She also creates cocktails that highlight and celebrate gay icons, drawing inspiration not just from the menu and research but also LGBTQ history and culture.

This pride in her work is reflected in the pride in her identity.

“Being part of the LGBTQ community has taught me the importance of authenticity, resilience, and inclusivity. I am unapologetic about who I am and show up at work proud of my identity, which helps create a space where others feel comfortable and supported.”

Tien, Nguyen, and his staff are highly intentional in staffing. “This commitment to inclusivity is reflected in our hiring practices; we intentionally build a diverse bar team that includes members of the LGBTQ community,” she says.

Just like her physical journey, arriving in this place of leadership and comfort took a circuitous path. In the face of microaggressions and ignorance, comments and assumptions, lack of understanding and respect, she has been able to “strengthen my resolve to create an inclusive and supportive environment.” She ensures that she’s active in events that raise funds for LGBTQ non-profits around the DMV area, including SYMAL, CCI Health Services, and KhushDC.

 “I hope to encourage other LGBTQ individuals to pursue careers in hospitality and to advocate for greater inclusivity and acceptance in their own workplaces.”

Moon Rabbit, formerly located at the InterContinental Hotel on the Wharf, closed with a shock last year (its closure took place among a unionization drive by the hotel’s staff that the hotel had opposed). Debuting in its new location in Penn Quarter in January, Moon Rabbit quickly retook its place as a top dining destination: the restaurant was recently added to the Michelin guide. In June, Nguyen herself was named one of the best new bartenders in 2024 by Punch magazine. As Pride month closes out, Nguyen remains as dedicated to her craft – and her advocacy – as ever.

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