Dining
Sips & Suppers returns
Annual benefit attracts top regional chefs
Even celebrated chefs can be strong-armed by other celebrated chefs.
When legendary chef Alice Waters called D.C.ās equally legendary Joan Nathan prior to the 2009 Inaugural festivities to propose a fundraiser that would benefit local organizations that provide critical services to the hungry in Washington, Nathanās answer was unequivocal.
āWhen Alice calls,ā says Nathan, the cookbook author and television host known for her exploration of Jewish cuisine, āyou donāt say no. But I would have said yes anyway.ā Working with Waters, who spurred the organic foods revolution more than 40 years ago at her Berkeley, Calif., restaurant Chez Panisse, Nathan, along with D.C.ās own JosĆ© AndrĆ©s, is co-hosting the eighth annual Sips & Suppers, taking place this weekend: Saturday, Jan. 23 at the Newseum and Sunday, Jan. 24 at private homes across the area to benefit Marthaās Table and D.C. Central Kitchen.
While there are a lot of fundraisers on any given day in D.C., Sips & Suppers offers an opportunity to participate in something that has an enormous impact on the community, according to Mike Curtain, CEO of D.C. Central Kitchen, which dishes out 5,000 free meals daily to local homeless shelters, transitional homes and nonprofit organizations, as well as another 4,300 school meals each day to low-income D.C. schoolchildren. āThis is the power of food,ā Curtain says. āThe humanity we share is so much more powerful than what separates us.ā
For many people who once benefited from fresh hot meals prepared by the staff and volunteers of Central Kitchen, its Culinary Job Training Program is the next step toward independence. Since 1990, nearly 1,400 students have come through the 14-week program, which also provides internships and job placement in the community. Speaking to a group of visitors in early January, Earl, a graduate of the program who now works at D.C. Central Kitchen, spent 13 years in prison ā seven of them working in the prison bakery ā and found out about the training program through a job fair after he was released.
āI love my job,ā he says, āand I can honestly say that I appreciate my time incarcerated because it got me to where I am now.ā
Marthaās Table, which has been operating out of a storefront on the 14th Street corridor near Logan Circle for 35 years, was originally founded by Dr. Veronica Maz and Father Horace McKenna to provide a safe haven and healthy meals for local children. The program has expanded over the years to include McKennaās Wagon, which distributes hot meals and sandwiches to the homeless every day at three locations across the city, and Joyful Markets, bringing fresh and healthy food to 12 schools in wards 7 and 8, where families can fill grocery bags with 23 pounds of food per enrolled child to take home. Working with the Capital Area Food Bank, the goal is to have these monthly markets at every public and charter school in those wards, for a total of 44 markets.
āOne in three children in D.C. are food insecure,ā says Patty Stonesipher, president and CEO of Marthaās Table, āand one in two east of the (Anacostia) river. Most hunger is happening in apartments, homes and households.ā She welcomes the opportunity to work with local organizations to combat hunger, saying, āCollaboration is the new competition in the nonprofit world.ā
With $600,000 raised at last yearās event, Sips & Suppers will have a big impact on the programs offered by Central Kitchen and Marthaās Table. The Sips event on Jan. 23 features craft cocktails and tasty bites, from charcuterie to macarons, from some of D.C.ās best bars and restaurants, including Buffalo & Bergen, Ghibellina, Mango Tree, Red Apron, SER, and Tabard Inn, all served at the Newseum at $125 per person.
The Suppers, which provide an opportunity to get more up close and personal with some of the best chefs from both D.C. and around the country, are a more intimate affair hosted in private homes.
At $600 per ticket (or $5,000 for a meal prepared by Alice Waters herself), these dinners welcome just 20 diners each, providing for a truly welcoming experience. Chef Ris Lacoste, whose dinner with Vidalia chef Jeff Buben is already sold out, says, āMy favorite way of eating is in the love and comfort of someoneās home.ā
A few tickets are still available for some of the dinners being prepared by some of D.C.ās favorite chefs, including those being prepared by Carla Hall and Mike Isabella, who both rose to national prominence as contestants on āTop Chef,ā and Marjorie Meek-Bradley, who is now featured on the current season of āTop Chef.ā
For more information, check out sipsandsuppers.org.
Kristen Hartke is a D.C.-based food and beverage. Follow her kitchen adventures on Twitter, @khartke.
Dining
Union Marketās Last Call Bar a welcoming oasis for all
Mixologist Britt Weaver expresses her pride and identity every day
Amid the development of the fast-growing Union Market district, spanning dozens of eateries (including a duo of Michelin stars), embracing and inclusive spaces are tough to come by. Last Call Bar is one of those ā and head mixologist and proud member of the LGBTQ community Britt Weaver is making sure this divey spot stays that way.
While buzzy restaurants take the spotlight, Weaver and Last Call are embracing the different.
āIāve made it a personal mission to ensure that the bar continues to be a place where everyone feels welcomed and accepted,ā she says. āBeing behind the bar, I see a lot of people ā I try to make sure every guest feels safe, seen, and cared for when they visit.ā
Last Call exudes a laid-back spirit, aiming to fill that neighborhood-style gap that might be missing among prix-fixe tasting menus and shiny boutiques. Eccentric dƩcor that includes painted lockers, old posters hung from the ceiling, artfully peeling paint, and arcade games feeds into the homey spirit. Patrons are welcome to bring in stickers and slap them on the bar, adding even more personality to the space.
Launched in 2019 serving sub-$10 drinks and having survived the pandemic, Last Call still maintains an unconventional vibe that extends to the menu. Itās one of the few bars that serves flavor-changing Jello shots, with the option to add nostalgia-inducing pop rocks; as well as an hour-long āteeny tiny ātini hourā for those who want a taste but not an entire glassful of liquor. Keeping things cool: koozies are also for sale. The food menuās grown since opening, with sandwiches in addition to bags of chips and shareable dips.
Last Call welcomed Weaver in 2023. While working as a bartender during grad school, Weaver was drawn to the excitement of the bar scene. After COVID, she says, she leaned into her career in the hospitality industry.
In the freewheeling, demanding bartending industry, Weaver has fought to be seen.
āPrevious jobs and ownership teams have urged me to conceal my identity, but that is something I refuse to do. It is so incredibly important for me to be able to express my pride and identity every day,ā she says.
Last Call has a pedigree from its ally owner Gina Chersevani, who also runs decade-old Buffalo and Bergen stall inside Union Market and a sister Buffalo and Bergen on Capitol Hill. Chersevani is deeply rooted in the D.C. hospitality industry, which Weaver says has a culture that celebrates creativity and expression.
Chersevani ensures that āIāve been celebrated and encouraged to express my identity,ā says Weaver. āShe has given me the freedom to cultivate a space that is welcoming of the LGBTQ+ community while also still remaining true to the Last Call spirit.ā This year, during Pride month, Chersevani launched a Pride punch card, in which patrons who visited all of her spots won free drinks.
Weaver further notes that being proud of her identity and committing to it behind the bar and in the fast-paced service industry āopens more space for other LGBTQ+ industry members to feel safe to express their own identities. Visibility is so critical in making safe spaces for the queer community.ā
Looking forward, Weaver remains steadfast in her commitment to learning and growing in the space and in D.C. She promises that Last Call Bar has plenty of events and programming, new cocktail menus, and a welcoming community spirit.
To celebrate the summer, Weaver offered a cocktail recipe to have at home with friends: Strawberry PiƱa Colada.
Ingredients
Ā· 2 ounces silver rum
Ā· 1 ounce strawberry purĆ©e
Ā· 1 ounce fresh pineapple juice
Ā· 1 ounce coconut milk
Ā· .5 ounce lime juice
Combine all ingredients, then shake. Serve in a Collins glass, over crushed ice, and
garnish as desired.
Representing the ever-growing, increasingly recognized restaurant industry in Washington, D.C., the Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington (RAMW) held its first-ever RAMMYs Honors Event on June 18 in the lower level of the Watergate Hotel. Restaurant and hospitality industry professionals, leaders, and community members gathered to celebrate RAMMY special distinctions.
The event took place as an extension of the traditional RAMMY Awards Gala, which honors āthe exceptional ability and accomplishmentsā of the regionās restaurants and foodservice community. The 42nd Annual RAMMY Awards Gala will take place on Sunday, July 21, at the Walter E. Washington Convention Center.
The RAMMYs Honors event kicked off with a cocktail hour, and was hosted by author, seasoned democratic strategist, and co-host of MSNBCās The Weekend, Symone Sanders Townsend.
While there were several awards presented, this inaugural event only held onto one announcement until the event itself: the RAMMYS Joan Hisaoka Allied Member of the Year Winner, presented to an associate member who best exemplifies commitment to and support of RAMW. This year, the Carlos Rosario International Public Charter School won, a school supporting adult immigrants that includes a culinary arts program.
Other honors that evening included the Duke Zeibert Capital Achievement Award Winner, which was given to Greater Washington Partnership CEO Kathy E. Hollinger āfor her excellence and community leadership, increasing the profile and success of the metropolitan Washington foodservice community.ā Prior to joining the Partnership, Hollinger was president and CEO of RAMW. Hollinger sat for a wide-ranging interview on stage with Sanders Townsend, who is married to Shawn Townsend current president and CEO of the RAMW.Ā
Finally, the 2024 Honorary Milestone RAMMY Award recipients were also honored, celebrating a significant number of years serving locals and visitors in Metropolitan Washington: The Dubliner (50 years), Blackās Bar & Kitchen (25 years), Equinox on 19th (25 years), KAZ Sushi Bistro (25 years), Marcelās (25 years), and Passage to India (25 years).
As the restaurant industry grows in the city, for the first-time, the RAMMYS Honors event allowed for a unique opportunity to highlight a range of special distinctions determined by RAMW’s executive committee. Instead of being public-facing, the Honors were dedicated to industry professionals, to give extra attention and the spotlight to those that often get overlooked at the main RAMMYs Gala. These awards were chosen by RAMW’s executive committee whereas the other awards, given at The RAMMYS, are chosen by both the public and an anonymous panel of judges.
Summer, traditionally a slower time for the restaurant industry, means that RAMW is pulling out the stops for diners to try out new and favorite spots across the area.
First, finalists for Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washingtonās 2024 Wine Program of the Year will take part in promotions planned for the second week of July. From Monday, July 8, through Sunday, July 14, the regionās top wine programs will showcase their outstanding varietals and pours. The 2024 Wine Program of the Year Finalists include: Apero (Dupont Circle), Era (Mt. Ranier), Irregardless (H Street), Luluās Wine Garden (Shaw), and St. Anselm (Union Market). Each will have discounts, tasting parties, special blends, flights, and other ways to savor the areaās top wines.
Finally, the season also sees the return of Summer Restaurant Week, celebrating the region’s restaurant industry from Monday, Aug. 12, through Sunday, Aug. 18. Participating restaurants will offer multi-course brunch and lunch menus with updated tiered pricing for $25 or $35 per person, and multi-course dinner menus for $40, $55, or $65 per person for on-premises dining. Many restaurants will also offer cocktail, wine, and non-alcoholic pairings.
Dining
Behind the bar with Moon Rabbitās Thi Nguyen
Cocktails work in harmony with thoughtfully executed Vietnamese dishes
Thi Nguyenās hands move purposely behind the bar, her all-business, cobalt blue nails gleaming under the warm lighting of recently relocated ā and highly celebrated ā Moon Rabbit. A dash of simple syrup infused with pandan ā a shrub native to Southeast Asia with vanilla-scented leaves ā moves deftly in her hands to lightly spice a cocktail that will soon receive another kick from ginger bitters.
Nguyen, Moon Rabbitās celebrated bar manager, cannot be accused of holding back flavors from her drinks. Nor can she hold back her identity and her journey. Her journey from Saigon to Maryland to California and finally to D.C., but also her journey as a proudly out lesbian, unafraid to bring her whole self to all her pours.
Boundaries, borders, conventions: these matter little to Nguyen, who left several homes to finally find herself where sheās most comfortable, and where she acts as a leader and mentor for others to do the same. Just as she doesnāt hide her identity, she also doesnāt hide that her cocktails complement Moon Rabbitās vibrant, contemporary Vietnamese cuisine. Owner/chef Kevin Tien pays tribute to his heritage as a first-generation Asian American, using Moon Rabbit as a platform for expressing his love for Vietnamese culture and food through a determinedly modern lens.
Her cocktails, then, work in harmony with thoughtfully executed dishes like chewy rice cakes under a tofu crumble and cured egg, deconstructed crab Rangoon, and wagyu-stuffed perilla leaves brightened by fermented honey.
Sitting with the chefs and acclaimed owner Kevin Tien, āwe begin by exploring cookbooks together,ā in a collaborative process, āto find inspiration and potential flavor combinations. It involves a lot of research and development, trial and error, experimentation, and technique.ā
āAnd while this sometimes leads to failures, it ultimately helps us discover the perfect pairings.ā
Her menu arrives without flavor hesitations. Cocktail names are given in both English and Vietnamese (as are the dishes), a signal that she is asking diners and drinkers to join her and trust her as unapologetic about her Vietnamese craft.
The Hįŗæt NĘ°į»c Chįŗ„m (Out of Dipping Sauce) drink is composed of vodka, passionfruit liqueur, a squeeze of lemon, and a simple syrup based on nĘ°į»c chįŗ„mā also known as fish sauce. While nodding to the popularity of the savory martini, this cocktail also reflects the ubiquity of fish sauce on the Moon Rabbit menu and across Southeast Asia.
Other ingredients? Sesame oil, coconut milk, palm syrup, and chrysanthemum all show up in various drinks, alcoholic or otherwise. She also creates cocktails that highlight and celebrate gay icons, drawing inspiration not just from the menu and research but also LGBTQ history and culture.
This pride in her work is reflected in the pride in her identity.
āBeing part of the LGBTQ community has taught me the importance of authenticity, resilience, and inclusivity. I am unapologetic about who I am and show up at work proud of my identity, which helps create a space where others feel comfortable and supported.ā
Tien, Nguyen, and his staff are highly intentional in staffing. āThis commitment to inclusivity is reflected in our hiring practices; we intentionally build a diverse bar team that includes members of the LGBTQ community,ā she says.
Just like her physical journey, arriving in this place of leadership and comfort took a circuitous path. In the face of microaggressions and ignorance, comments and assumptions, lack of understanding and respect, she has been able to āstrengthen my resolve to create an inclusive and supportive environment.ā She ensures that sheās active in events that raise funds for LGBTQ non-profits around the DMV area, including SYMAL, CCI Health Services, and KhushDC.
āI hope to encourage other LGBTQ individuals to pursue careers in hospitality and to advocate for greater inclusivity and acceptance in their own workplaces.ā
Moon Rabbit, formerly located at the InterContinental Hotel on the Wharf, closed with a shock last year (its closure took place among a unionization drive by the hotelās staff that the hotel had opposed). Debuting in its new location in Penn Quarter in January, Moon Rabbit quickly retook its place as a top dining destination: the restaurant was recently added to the Michelin guide. In June, Nguyen herself was named one of the best new bartenders in 2024 by Punch magazine. As Pride month closes out, Nguyen remains as dedicated to her craft ā and her advocacy ā as ever.