Arts & Entertainment
Female-forward movement takes root in D.C.’s culinary scene
Re:Her raises thousands for local female-identified businesses
Connection and collaboration, inclusion and equity: a new female-forward grassroots movement in the culinary field has taken root in D.C.
Working to “empower and advance women food and drink entrepreneurs,” Regarding Her (Re:Her) Food began in Los Angeles in the midst of the pandemic in the summer of 2020. In March, the organization launched its second chapter here in D.C. through a two-week festival of dinners, discussions, and other events – and it will continue to blossom on May 2 at an outdoor Spring Market on 14th Street.
“As a response to the pandemic, we [in D.C.] informally began to facilitate communication among women food business owners,” says founding member of the D.C. chapter, longtime culinary leader, and owner of Pizzeria Paradiso, Ruth Gresser (she identifies as a lesbian). “Within just a few months, we created a strong network of monthly calls and regular collaborations. It is a space where women can come together in a very honest, open, and communal way.” After learning about similar efforts by Re:Her in Los Angeles, they joined forces to formalize their efforts.
For women in the food business, Gresser explains, “there are two fundamental challenges: access to capital and recognition.”
While this lack of access is a systemic concern, Gresser says, the pandemic only reinforced it. Re:Her LA wasted no time in confronting these challenges and supporting female-identifying businesses: by July 2021, it had distributed $150,000 in small grants. The D.C. launch in March 2022 also raised thousands of dollars to support its programs.
Beyond small business grants, Re:Her DC will focus its efforts on offering mentorship and other resources that directly benefit women in the culinary arts. Gresser notes that Re:Her will also work to support other issues important to women business owners, like pay gaps, childcare, and safe workplace environments. “We’re helping develop a more equitable future for women,” she says.
When Gresser launched her career 40 years ago in San Francisco, she came out as a lesbian at the same time. Moving to D.C. in the 1980s, she found a less welcoming environment in the food world. Yet she was soon able to open her own restaurant, Pizzeria Paradiso, ensuring that she could create the safe, inclusive work environment that she envisioned. Through Re:Her, “I can help create a future in which women in the industry have parity and equity.”
Another founding member, Jamie Leeds (a former Washington Blade Most Eligible Single), noted that, “straight or gay, any woman would benefit from becoming a member of this group. There are so few places to have this level of professionalism to be able to tap into, get advice, and commiserate.”
With Gresser, Leeds, and other members of the LGBTQ community in leadership positions at Re:Her DC, this opened the door to ensuring that Re:Her is a safe, open space, and could reach out to underrepresented groups – the LGBTQ community included.
“The Re:Her DC group is a safe space to talk about things happening in our personal lives,” says member Shannan Troncoso, chef/owner of Brookland’s Finest. “I have been able to talk with other lesbian-identifying women (and with straight women) about family planning, fertility, and adoption.”
Gresser points out that the “LGBTQ community faces more disadvantages, so we are reaching out to try to get businesses that do identify as part of community to engage with us.”
Re:Her states that empowering women creates a platform for growth while addressing inequality, social reform, and political awareness within our cities and neighborhoods. The D.C. chapter is open to all female restaurateurs, chefs, caterers, bakers, distillers, winemakers, bar owners, food truck operators, and other hospitality industry businesswomen.
Coming off the successful March launch, Re:Her DC is hosting the upcoming Bites & Libations and Outdoor Spring Market at female-owned Cork Wine Bar & Market the evening of May 2. The food, drink, and artisan offerings all come from Re:Her members.
“Regarding Her is an incredible community organization for women,” says Julie Verratti, owner of Denizen’s Brewing, and part of the LGBTQ community. “Representation matters and being able to be your full self amongst your peers is a privilege. I am so grateful to be a part of this group and can’t wait to meet more women being their authentic selves and excelling in their careers.”
The fourth annual Equality Prince William Pride was held at the Harris Pavilion in Manassas, Va. on Saturday, May 17.
(Washington Blade photos by Michael Key)
The Washington Blade held its 18th annual Summer Kickoff Party in Rehoboth Beach, Del., on Friday, May 16. Delaware Gov. Matt Meyer spoke along with State Sen. Russ Huxtable, CAMP Rehoboth Executive Director Kim Leisey, Blade Editor Kevin Naff, and Clear Space Theatre Managing Director Joe Gfaller. The event raises funds for the Steve Elkins Memorial Fellowship in Journalism, which was awarded to AU student Abigail Hatting.
(Washington Blade photos by Daniel Truitt)
In some fowl fiction foreshadowing, a gay-owned chicken joint has come home to roost on U Street, taking a page from the chicken window subplot on the HBO show “Looking.”
Last Friday, Lucky Pollo – much more than just a takeout window – stretched its wings atop the busy nightlife corner of 14th and U Streets NW.
Behind the poultry production place is Zach Renovátes, a D.C.-based nightlife operator and managing partner of LGBTQ venues Bunker and District Eagle, as well as the LGBTQ event production company KINETIC Presents.
Renovátes opened Bunker in February 2023 and District Eagle in January of this year. Lucky Pollo is the third in his growing gay empire, though this time there are noshes.
“Lucky Pollo was meant to be fun and a little provocative,” Renovátes said.
Based around its Peruvian-style rotisserie chicken, Lucky Pollo is a quick-service restaurant boasting a small menu of poultry and sides. Renovátes says that the dishes are deeply rooted in Peruvian culinary tradition, “a playful experience alongside seriously good food.”
Lucky Pollo’s signature chicken is steeped in a dozen-plus-spice marinade for 24 hours. The meat is then slow-roasted, rotisserie-style, over oak-wood charcoal. Chicken options include quarter, half, and whole.
Helming the kitchen at Lucky Pollo is Chef Luis Herrera, who brings Peruvian recipes passed down through three generations, including his grandmother Laura’s original creations.
Beyond the full bird, the menu features Peruvian-inspired sides like yuca fries (“I personally love these,” says Renovátes) and fried plantains, as well as comfort classics such as mac and cheese and mashed potatoes, and bowls, wraps, and salads. Herrera oversees development of the multiple sauces (including staff favorite, the “secret green sauce”), crafted in-house using traditional Peruvian ingredients.
Lucky Pollo, in its streetside perch, is an independent concept from District Eagle, open to the public and staying open late (3 a.m. on weekends) to serve both nightlife guests and the wider U Street crowd hungry for late-night bites. However, just beyond the kitchen, tucked in the back lies a vintage 1950s candy machine—labeled “Out of Order,” which serves as the door leading to subterranean District Eagle.
Renovátes notes that when District Eagle is open, security staff will maintain a strict two-line policy, ensuring that those seeking meat to eat will not get entwined with those looking to gain access to District Eagle.
Lucky Pollo unites the need for sustenance with the idea of a bit of fortune, given its motto, “Get Lucky” and the whimsical brand mascot: a leather-booted chicken perched on a horseshoe. Renovátes and his District Eagle business partner had always been interested in opening a restaurant, and the Lucky Pollo space was indeed lucky: It already came with a functional kitchen. Plus, he says, the nearby fast-casual places around 14th and U streets “don’t offer a lot of quality options,” so opening the chicken spot “was a no-brainer.”
The space, designed by NYC creative Jasin Cadic, blends theatrical street-art-style vibes with Keith Haring-inspired wall prints, neon signs, and ceiling-hung chicken figurines —”some edgy, some sweet,” says Renovátes —creating an immersive, playful atmosphere. Lucky Pollo and District Eagle maintain separate amenities for their respective customers.
Lucky Pollo opened last week with a competition to devour a whole rotisserie chicken in the fastest time, with the winner earning $1,000 and a framed spot on the restaurant’s “Wall of Fame.” The opening also featured other games and prizes, and a full crowd spilling out the door.
“We want it to be a great place to eat, but also serve as a playful front for something completely unexpected.” Renovátes says.
On weekends especially, he jokes, the motto will be, ‘Come for the chicken, stay for the cock.’”
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