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Going Rogue

Mind-boggling array of multi-course meals available at N Street spot

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Shrimp 'n' grits from Rogue 24
Rogue 24 interior

Rogue 24 offers a bounty of unexpected culinary delights. (Photo courtesy Rogue 24)

Every once in a while every diner should spoil himself with a special meal and Rogue 24 (922 N Street NW) proves a great option for the adventurous diner who is looking for an extravagant night full of delicious bites.

Rogue 24 lets the diner sit back and enjoy everything the restaurant has to offer. You don’t even need to make those pesky decisions about what to eat or drink. Simply make a reservation, decide how many courses you want and leave the rest up to the staff.

They offer a couple options for diners. My husband Greg and I opted for the eight courses on the “Evolution Menu” but there were also 16- and 24-course options available. Chef RJ Cooper did inform me that the eight course Evolution Menu is “evolving” into a 16-course seating this fall but that they will also be offering a four-course Prix Fix Menu. The changes are based on feedback Cooper says.

We were seated and the hostess said she hoped we would enjoy our dining experience; the emphasis was clearly on “experience.” And what an experience it was. Rogue 24 is not for an immature palate or a closed mind. Sometimes the flavors on your plate are subtle, and sometimes they are bold, but each and every plate that makes its way out of the “kitchen in the round” — that is the centerpiece of this raw and open space — is rich and well thought out. Even if you have the most adventurous palate you may not like every plate, but that’s part of the journey. When speaking with Cooper he offered some advice for patrons dining at Rogue — “ Keep an open mind.”

Rogue 24 is like Cooper says, “completely out of the box.” We dined on a variety of dishes starting with snapper with red pepper that warmed the back of your throat, followed by a cool cucumber gazpacho, and then a pungent course of parmesan cheese with artichokes.

The pacific moonfish was rich and delectable with olives and a touch of citrus; an interesting plate of peaches in a mole sauce with heart of palm followed. I was then introduced to escargot, not a plate that I was terribly fond of but the potato foam that it was served with was exquisite.

My favorite savory dish of the evening was the braised and fried ox tail that was both chewy and crispy; a creative play on textures. Part of the joy of these courses was you didn’t know what would be arriving next; each course was a complete surprise. I asked Cooper which of these many courses was his favorite but he couldn’t answer, “Because that would be like having a favorite child,” which shows how much passion he has for his food.

The desserts began arriving, starting with the passion fruit with coconut meringue and white chocolate. This was followed by the sweet decadence of the triple chocolate mousse. The plate had white, dark and milk chocolate mousse and crumbles on it, and I scraped my plate clean. The final dish was a plate of homemade candies, chocolates and mini cookies.

Every plate throughout the meal was paired with a cocktail or wine and each beverage revealed nuances in each dish. When service was over we weren’t quite prepared to end the night, so Greg ordered a port that he insisted tasted like “liquid trail mix complete with M&Ms” and I had quite possibly the most dynamic drink ever in the form of a scotch (neat of course) from India called Amrut.

As we sat and savored our drinks we quietly reviewed the meal. The service was impeccable, well choreographed and thoughtful, and the plates consisted of bites we will be talking about for years to come whether we loved them or not. Every employee in the restaurant gives 100 percent of their attention to the patrons whether in the kitchen or on the floor. While no two experiences at Rogue 24 will be the same especially since the menu is constantly changing, it is a worthwhile adventure at least once. So, my recommendation is to save up some cash (it is an expensive meal), shed your inhibitions about food and experience all that Rogue 24 has to offer.

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Photos

PHOTOS: Crush Dance Bar

Patrons enjoy a night out at popular LGBTQ venue

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(Washington Blade photo by Landon Shackelford)

Patrons enjoyed a night out at the popular LGBTQ venue Crush Dance Bar on Friday, July 3.

(Washington Blade photos by Landon Shackelford)

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Theater

‘My Favorite Sociopath’ debuts at Shepherdstown’s CATF

Gay playwright Aurin Squire’s take on D.C. journalism in the ‘90s

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Playwright Aurin Squire. (Photo by Yilong Liu)

‘My Favorite Sociopath’
Contemporary American Theater Festival
July 10-Aug. 2
Shepherdstown, W.Va.
Catf.org

Discernment. It’s a thing some people have, explains playwright Aurin Squire, especially when you’re gay or Black in America (Squire is both).

“You instinctively know when the mob is teaming up for the best interests of the powers that be. You can feel it in the air.”

In his sharp new satire “My Favorite Sociopath,” Squire writes about life experiences but set in a different time and place: It’s the 1990s, early days of the 24-hour news cycle, and three ambitious journalism students are pursuing success in D.C.

And now, Squire’s play, along with other new works, are making their world premieres at the annual Contemporary American Theater Festival (CATF) at Shepherd University in historic, queer-friendly Shepherdstown, W.Va. (just a 90-minute drive from D.C.).

“All of my plays are queer in some way,” says Squire, 46. “This one touches on harmless and dangerous lies. The characters are on the spectrum sexually, and it’s interesting how all that falls out.”

And he’s given it a lot of thought. 

“Already as a kid, it seemed to me that the rage against rap music and sex was coming from closeted people resisting their own urges and temptations. For me, it was interesting to see a witch hunt led by witches. Queer people can always call out a lie.”

Since September, Squire has also been working with a TV show about the tech industry set in Silicon Valley. He says, “It seems the general flow of the tech industry is that humanity and civilization is finished and it’s just about accumulating as many goods as possible before everything collapses. In fact, those who are profiting actually agree. But for those who disagree, they believe the solution is to build bigger gates, but activists believe we can stop this” 

Yet, he’s learned from folks associated with the show. “Many say the quickest way to divorce yourself from any responsibility or regulations — smash and grab. Otherwise, you have to stop and think and regulate your desires for greed and power”

Squire possesses a penchant for pithy titles. He laughs, explaining the first thing he wrote as a student at Juilliard was “Obama-ology,” the comedy with contemporary message. While a lot of people liked the name, it didn’t necessarily vibe with the author. He concedes that he chooses names based on “easy to remember” and titles that won’t be easy to lose as a file. 

Another is “Defacing Michael Jackson,” a coming-of-age dramedy set in rural Florida in 1984, specifically Squire’s native town Opa-locka, Miami, a fantastical place famed for its fanciful Moorish revival architecture.

Living in the shadow of exotic structures, he wasn’t particularly fazed. Squire says “It wasn’t until returning to visit after my freshman year at Northwestern University in Chicago that I realized how weird it was: When you grow up in a place, you take surroundings for granted no matter how over the top.”  

Now based in New York (where for two happy years, 2017-2019, he shared digs with drag king Murry Hill), Squire returns frequently to Miami to be with family, but this summer has been filled with both work and travel.

Currently, he’s in Shepherdstown with CATF shaping up “My Favorite Sociopath.” Later this summer he will travel to South Africa for research, followed by a silent writing retreat in Santa Fe, N.M. 

Much of Squire’s work reflects the Latino, African, Caribbean, African-American, and Jewish cultures he grew up around in South Florida.

When asked if today’s winds of anti-multiculturalism worry him, he replies, “No, because that’s going to pass. Most people don’t like, people are seeing the negative results of it, and the young people coming up despise it. White male gamers were tricked momentarily through the algorithms into voting against their own interests and they’re now seeing how it’s not working out for them. 

“Conservatives always try to stop progress and eventually they always lose. It’s just a question of where we’ll be in the middle of the end of civilization before that happens. I’d like to hope we can turn the ship around before then.” 

In addition to “My Favorite Sociopath,” CATF summer season features three other world premieres (Lisa D’Amour’s comedy “The Smoker,” “Refugee Rhapsody” by Yussef El Guindi, “Best Line Wins: A Play Inspired by the Improvised Lives of Elaine May & Mike Nichols” by Beth Kander) and “¡VOS!” by Christina Pumariega.

CATF runs from July 10-Aug. 2 in three venues on the Shepherd University campus: Frank Center, Marinoff Theater, and Studio 112.

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Books

‘Transcendent’ a tough but important read

Laverne Cox’s memoir recounts horrific abuse as a child

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(Book cover image courtesy of Gallery Books)

‘Transcendent: A Memoir’
By Laverne Cox
c.2026, Gallery Books
$30/238 pages

OK, let’s just say it: You’re tired of lies.

They come from above, behind, from either shoulder. They’re repeated, laid out in a line, told as if they’re true but they’re not. You wish people would stop lying to you. As in the new memoir “Transcendent” by Laverne Cox, you wish you could tell the truth about yourself.

Sissy.

If the bullies in the neighborhood weren’t constantly calling Laverne Cox that name, then Cox’s mother was. “Sissy,” was just one word, though; the others were worse. The boys would say those things while they beat Cox, when they could catch her. Her mother screamed at her gentle child who didn’t like “boy” activities.

Even at eight years old, says Cox, “I was a prim and proper lady.”

Despite the verbal abuse about her perceived feminine behavior and a furtive, failed attempt at conversion therapy, Cox’s mother sent her and her brother to the Alabama School of Fine Arts, where Cox learned to dance. It was a lifeline for her, and the talent gained there helped Cox get into college in Indiana.

From there, Cox expected to find fame and fortune in New York City.

And yet, the abuse she suffered as a child held Cox back, and the words “There is something wrong with me” became a daily mantra.

“I didn’t know how to say it.” Cox says. “Im a girl.

There were therapy sessions to get to that point, as Cox learned the language and skills needed to speak the truth. Landing a sense of style helped, as did her brother’s support, a handful of friends, and happy, scent-infused memories of her mother’s make-up table.

At each step, Cox says, “I was expressing myself, I was also allowing myself to edge closer to my girlhood.”

Let’s start here: “Transcendent” is a difficult read – not for style, but for substance.

From her earliest memory of being sexually abused as a toddler; to verbal and physical abuse from many sources; to what, judging by photo captions, seems perhaps like forgiveness, author Laverne Cox glosses over nothing. Be ready, in other words, for pages and pages of memories that, like a roller-coaster, will make you cringe and want to hide your eyes, although doing so would be a mistake.

As this book progresses, Cox’s story does, too. We see a child who knows a truth but has no words for it. The child becomes a teen with a bursting sense of self, then a young adult who craves love as she’s stretching her wings. By the time Cox advances to writing about her career and the abuse is (mostly) over, readers will breathe a well-deserved sigh of relief. Whew, you’ve winced through a harrowing tale to reach a satisfying but not complete update.

Fans of Cox’s work will want “Transcendent,” as will anyone who’s transitioned, is thinking about it, or loves someone who has. It’s a rough read, but a necessary one, then, and that’s no lie.

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