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Hula Girl owner extols virtues of Spam

Mikala Brennan heads an all-female staff at Arlington-based Hawaiian bar and grill

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Hula Girl, gay news, Washington Blade
Hula Girl, gay news, Washington Blade
A sampling of the offerings at Hula Girl Bar & Grill. (Photo courtesy of Mikala Brennan)

From rocker chick to Spam champion, Mikala Brennan of Hula Girl Bar & Grill (4044 Campbell Ave., Arlington), brings her signature mahalo island vibes to D.C., all while being loud and proud. 

Self-styled as ā€œchef/owner/dishwasherā€ of the restaurant, Brennanā€™s tiki roots and gay identity mean that she likes to stir things up, whether at the bar or ā€œslinging Spam to the masses,ā€ she says.

In 2011, Brennan introduced her love and passion to D.C.: Hawaiian food. Before that, however, she was a bit of a rocker.

ā€œI lived in San Diego for 10 years where I learned to cook and also had a band,ā€ she says. After moving to D.C. to work for Marriott and then traveling as a hospitality consultant, Brennan settled back in the District to return to her food (and family) roots. 

ā€œThe truck was inspired by my mom, who ended up in Hawaii after meeting my dad on the beach,ā€ she says. And as a child, there was always cooking in the kitchen and kitsch in the living room.

ā€œMy mom had a lot of gay friends,ā€ she says. ā€œThey would come by the house, drink horrible Mai Tais, and do everyoneā€™s hair. By the end, they were totally sauced.ā€ Brennan says her own hair took weeks to recover from that hangover.

But Hawaii was conservative culturally and it took her leaving home to come out. But while the girl has left Hawaii, Hawaii hasnā€™t left the girl. 

The truck ā€” and later restaurant ā€” pay homage to her familyā€™s culinary roots. 

On the truck, Brennanā€™s focus was ā€œplate lunchā€: a meat, like braised pork or grilled fish, atop rice and alongside macaroni salad. 

Of course, thereā€™s the true Hawaiian special, the Spam musubi. 

Brennanā€™s true love is for this beloved tinned meat. 

ā€œItā€™s so damn good,ā€ she says, but ā€œit gets a bad rap.ā€ 

Spam musubi is a convenience-store special of marinated grilled Spam resting on a rectangle of rice, wrapped in nori. Brennan also serves it tempura-style, deep-fried and touched up with teriyaki and spicy mayo. 

Though Andrew Zimmern, on his ā€œBizarre Foods Americaā€ show, expressed dislike for it, Brennan says ā€œmost people that try Spam love it. And the official Spam handle even follows us on social media.ā€

For her, the truck became not just a passion, but a job. 

ā€œThere were so few of us back then ā€” we helped define an industry here in D.C.,ā€ she says. (Brennan even took a couple shifts at fellow gay-food-trucker BBQ Bus to get her feet wet.)

Having served Spam on TV, Brennan wanted to go brick and mortar. In November 2015, Hula Girl Bar & Grill arrived in the Village at Shirlington.

Brennan keeps the restaurant low-key, in Hawaiian spirit. Sure, surfboards hang from the ceiling and flip flops from the wall. Requisite dancing hula statuettes sway in grass skirts (including one of President Obama, himself a Hawaii native). But the blonde wood paneling and retro low-slung blue vinyl chairs give off more calm than crazy.

The restaurant also ā€œwas set up to be non-gender-specific. I take great pains to have a safe workplace,ā€ she says. Brennan earned her cooking education in progressive California kitchens, not at formal French institutions.

As it happens, she has an all-female kitchen staff. They helm spots that ā€œarenā€™t usually run by women, like the grill. Itā€™s a very different vibe,ā€ she says. ā€œIā€™ve brought on men with incredible pedigrees, but they just donā€™t last.ā€

These chefs churn out street food while also elevating a cuisine that has too often taken a back seat to tropical cocktails (though those make appearances too). 

Hawaiian food ā€œis a melding of cultures, including traditional island, Japanese, Chinese, Filipino, American and Portuguese, but itā€™s comfort food at the end of the day.ā€ 

Diners may gravitate toward trendy poke bowls, but Brennan steers them to items sheā€™s just as passionate about. 

Among napkin-necessary starters are the sticky glazed root-beer ribs. Mains include banana-leaf ensconced pork and cabbage, and the Loco Moco: two burger patties and two fried eggs smothered in mushroom-onion gravy. And thereā€™s always Spam.

Brennan wouldnā€™t be herself without something shaking behind the bar. The signature cocktail is the Hula Girl Mai Tai, of rum, ginger, bitters, juice and a black rum float ($14). Also Hawaiian: the pineapple sparkling wine, straight from Maui. Hawaiian draft beers also make appearances. 

Hula Girl, though infused with rocker-girl fun, is about inclusion. 

ā€œI just want people to fee like they belong.ā€

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Dining

Union Marketā€™s Last Call Bar a welcoming oasis for all

Mixologist Britt Weaver expresses her pride and identity every day

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Britt Weaver is head mixologist at Last Call Bar.

Amid the development of the fast-growing Union Market district, spanning dozens of eateries (including a duo of Michelin stars), embracing and inclusive spaces are tough to come by. Last Call Bar is one of those ā€” and head mixologist and proud member of the LGBTQ community Britt Weaver is making sure this divey spot stays that way.

While buzzy restaurants take the spotlight, Weaver and Last Call are embracing the different.

ā€œIā€™ve made it a personal mission to ensure that the bar continues to be a place where everyone feels welcomed and accepted,ā€ she says. ā€œBeing behind the bar, I see a lot of people ā€” I try to make sure every guest feels safe, seen, and cared for when they visit.ā€

Last Call exudes a laid-back spirit, aiming to fill that neighborhood-style gap that might be missing among prix-fixe tasting menus and shiny boutiques. Eccentric dƩcor that includes painted lockers, old posters hung from the ceiling, artfully peeling paint, and arcade games feeds into the homey spirit. Patrons are welcome to bring in stickers and slap them on the bar, adding even more personality to the space.

Launched in 2019 serving sub-$10 drinks and having survived the pandemic, Last Call still maintains an unconventional vibe that extends to the menu. Itā€™s one of the few bars that serves flavor-changing Jello shots, with the option to add nostalgia-inducing pop rocks; as well as an hour-long ā€œteeny tiny ā€˜tini hourā€ for those who want a taste but not an entire glassful of liquor. Keeping things cool: koozies are also for sale. The food menuā€™s grown since opening, with sandwiches in addition to bags of chips and shareable dips.

Last Call welcomed Weaver in 2023. While working as a bartender during grad school, Weaver was drawn to the excitement of the bar scene. After COVID, she says, she leaned into her career in the hospitality industry.

In the freewheeling, demanding bartending industry, Weaver has fought to be seen.

ā€œPrevious jobs and ownership teams have urged me to conceal my identity, but that is something I refuse to do. It is so incredibly important for me to be able to express my pride and identity every day,ā€ she says.

Last Call has a pedigree from its ally owner Gina Chersevani, who also runs decade-old Buffalo and Bergen stall inside Union Market and a sister Buffalo and Bergen on Capitol Hill. Chersevani is deeply rooted in the D.C. hospitality industry, which Weaver says has a culture that celebrates creativity and expression.

Chersevani ensures that ā€œIā€™ve been celebrated and encouraged to express my identity,ā€ says Weaver. ā€œShe has given me the freedom to cultivate a space that is welcoming of the LGBTQ+ community while also still remaining true to the Last Call spirit.ā€ This year, during Pride month, Chersevani launched a Pride punch card, in which patrons who visited all of her spots won free drinks.

Weaver further notes that being proud of her identity and committing to it behind the bar and in the fast-paced service industry ā€œopens more space for other LGBTQ+ industry members to feel safe to express their own identities. Visibility is so critical in making safe spaces for the queer community.ā€

Looking forward, Weaver remains steadfast in her commitment to learning and growing in the space and in D.C. She promises that Last Call Bar has plenty of events and programming, new cocktail menus, and a welcoming community spirit.

To celebrate the summer, Weaver offered a cocktail recipe to have at home with friends: Strawberry PiƱa Colada.

Ingredients

Ā· 2 ounces silver rum

Ā· 1 ounce strawberry purĆ©e

Ā· 1 ounce fresh pineapple juice

Ā· 1 ounce coconut milk

Ā· .5 ounce lime juice

Combine all ingredients, then shake. Serve in a Collins glass, over crushed ice, and

garnish as desired.

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Dining

RAMMYs honors restaurant industry professionals

A busy summer for D.C.ā€™s dining scene

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D.C.ā€™s Summer Restaurant Week runs from Monday, Aug. 12, through Sunday, Aug. 18.

Representing the ever-growing, increasingly recognized restaurant industry in Washington, D.C., the Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington (RAMW) held its first-ever RAMMYs Honors Event on June 18 in the lower level of the Watergate Hotel. Restaurant and hospitality industry professionals, leaders, and community members gathered to celebrate RAMMY special distinctions. 

The event took place as an extension of the traditional RAMMY Awards Gala, which honors ā€œthe exceptional ability and accomplishmentsā€ of the regionā€™s restaurants and foodservice community. The 42nd Annual RAMMY Awards Gala will take place on Sunday, July 21, at the Walter E. Washington Convention Center.

The RAMMYs Honors event kicked off with a cocktail hour, and was hosted by author, seasoned democratic strategist, and co-host of MSNBCā€™s The Weekend, Symone Sanders Townsend.

While there were several awards presented, this inaugural event only held onto one announcement until the event itself: the RAMMYS Joan Hisaoka Allied Member of the Year Winner, presented to an associate member who best exemplifies commitment to and support of RAMW. This year, the Carlos Rosario International Public Charter School won, a school supporting adult immigrants that includes a culinary arts program.

Other honors that evening included the Duke Zeibert Capital Achievement Award Winner, which was given to Greater Washington Partnership CEO Kathy E. Hollinger ā€œfor her excellence and community leadership, increasing the profile and success of the metropolitan Washington foodservice community.ā€ Prior to joining the Partnership, Hollinger was president and CEO of RAMW. Hollinger sat for a wide-ranging interview on stage with Sanders Townsend, who is married to Shawn Townsend current president and CEO of the RAMW.Ā 

Finally, the 2024 Honorary Milestone RAMMY Award recipients were also honored, celebrating a significant number of years serving locals and visitors in Metropolitan Washington: The Dubliner (50 years), Blackā€™s Bar & Kitchen (25 years), Equinox on 19th (25 years), KAZ Sushi Bistro (25 years), Marcelā€™s (25 years), and Passage to India (25 years).

As the restaurant industry grows in the city, for the first-time, the RAMMYS Honors event allowed for a unique opportunity to highlight a range of special distinctions determined by RAMW’s executive committee. Instead of being public-facing, the Honors were dedicated to industry professionals, to give extra attention and the spotlight to those that often get overlooked at the main RAMMYs Gala. These awards were chosen by RAMW’s executive committee whereas the other awards, given at The RAMMYS, are chosen by both the public and an anonymous panel of judges.

Summer, traditionally a slower time for the restaurant industry, means that RAMW is pulling out the stops for diners to try out new and favorite spots across the area.

First, finalists for Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washingtonā€™s 2024 Wine Program of the Year will take part in promotions planned for the second week of July. From Monday, July 8, through Sunday, July 14, the regionā€™s top wine programs will showcase their outstanding varietals and pours. The 2024 Wine Program of the Year Finalists include: Apero (Dupont Circle), Era (Mt. Ranier), Irregardless (H Street), Luluā€™s Wine Garden (Shaw), and St. Anselm (Union Market). Each will have discounts, tasting parties, special blends, flights, and other ways to savor the areaā€™s top wines.

Finally, the season also sees the return of Summer Restaurant Week, celebrating the region’s restaurant industry from Monday, Aug. 12, through Sunday, Aug. 18. Participating restaurants will offer multi-course brunch and lunch menus with updated tiered pricing for $25 or $35 per person, and multi-course dinner menus for $40, $55, or $65 per person for on-premises dining. Many restaurants will also offer cocktail, wine, and non-alcoholic pairings.

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Behind the bar with Moon Rabbitā€™s Thi Nguyen

Cocktails work in harmony with thoughtfully executed Vietnamese dishes

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Moon Rabbitā€™s Thi Nguyen

Thi Nguyenā€™s hands move purposely behind the bar, her all-business, cobalt blue nails gleaming under the warm lighting of recently relocated ā€“ and highly celebrated ā€“ Moon Rabbit. A dash of simple syrup infused with pandan ā€“ a shrub native to Southeast Asia with vanilla-scented leaves ā€“ moves deftly in her hands to lightly spice a cocktail that will soon receive another kick from ginger bitters.

Nguyen, Moon Rabbitā€™s celebrated bar manager, cannot be accused of holding back flavors from her drinks. Nor can she hold back her identity and her journey. Her journey from Saigon to Maryland to California and finally to D.C., but also her journey as a proudly out lesbian, unafraid to bring her whole self to all her pours.

Boundaries, borders, conventions: these matter little to Nguyen, who left several homes to finally find herself where sheā€™s most comfortable, and where she acts as a leader and mentor for others to do the same. Just as she doesnā€™t hide her identity, she also doesnā€™t hide that her cocktails complement Moon Rabbitā€™s vibrant, contemporary Vietnamese cuisine. Owner/chef Kevin Tien pays tribute to his heritage as a first-generation Asian American, using Moon Rabbit as a platform for expressing his love for Vietnamese culture and food through a determinedly modern lens.

Her cocktails, then, work in harmony with thoughtfully executed dishes like chewy rice cakes under a tofu crumble and cured egg, deconstructed crab Rangoon, and wagyu-stuffed perilla leaves brightened by fermented honey.

Sitting with the chefs and acclaimed owner Kevin Tien, ā€œwe begin by exploring cookbooks together,ā€ in a collaborative process, ā€œto find inspiration and potential flavor combinations. It involves a lot of research and development, trial and error, experimentation, and technique.ā€

ā€œAnd while this sometimes leads to failures, it ultimately helps us discover the perfect pairings.ā€

Her menu arrives without flavor hesitations. Cocktail names are given in both English and Vietnamese (as are the dishes), a signal that she is asking diners and drinkers to join her and trust her as unapologetic about her Vietnamese craft. 

The Hįŗæt NĘ°į»›c Chįŗ„m (Out of Dipping Sauce) drink is composed of vodka, passionfruit liqueur, a squeeze of lemon, and a simple syrup based on nĘ°į»›c chįŗ„mā€“ also known as fish sauce. While nodding to the popularity of the savory martini, this cocktail also reflects the ubiquity of fish sauce on the Moon Rabbit menu and across Southeast Asia.

Other ingredients? Sesame oil, coconut milk, palm syrup, and chrysanthemum all show up in various drinks, alcoholic or otherwise. She also creates cocktails that highlight and celebrate gay icons, drawing inspiration not just from the menu and research but also LGBTQ history and culture.

This pride in her work is reflected in the pride in her identity.

ā€œBeing part of the LGBTQ community has taught me the importance of authenticity, resilience, and inclusivity. I am unapologetic about who I am and show up at work proud of my identity, which helps create a space where others feel comfortable and supported.ā€

Tien, Nguyen, and his staff are highly intentional in staffing. ā€œThis commitment to inclusivity is reflected in our hiring practices; we intentionally build a diverse bar team that includes members of the LGBTQ community,ā€ she says.

Just like her physical journey, arriving in this place of leadership and comfort took a circuitous path. In the face of microaggressions and ignorance, comments and assumptions, lack of understanding and respect, she has been able to ā€œstrengthen my resolve to create an inclusive and supportive environment.ā€ She ensures that sheā€™s active in events that raise funds for LGBTQ non-profits around the DMV area, including SYMAL, CCI Health Services, and KhushDC.

 ā€œI hope to encourage other LGBTQ individuals to pursue careers in hospitality and to advocate for greater inclusivity and acceptance in their own workplaces.ā€

Moon Rabbit, formerly located at the InterContinental Hotel on the Wharf, closed with a shock last year (its closure took place among a unionization drive by the hotelā€™s staff that the hotel had opposed). Debuting in its new location in Penn Quarter in January, Moon Rabbit quickly retook its place as a top dining destination: the restaurant was recently added to the Michelin guide. In June, Nguyen herself was named one of the best new bartenders in 2024 by Punch magazine. As Pride month closes out, Nguyen remains as dedicated to her craft ā€“ and her advocacy ā€“ as ever.

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