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Female-forward movement takes root in D.C.’s culinary scene

Re:Her raises thousands for local female-identified businesses

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Jamie Leeds and Ruth Gresser. (Photo by Ana Isabel Martinez Chamorro)

Connection and collaboration, inclusion and equity: a new female-forward grassroots movement in the culinary field has taken root in D.C. 

Working to “empower and advance women food and drink entrepreneurs,” Regarding Her (Re:Her) Food began in Los Angeles in the midst of the pandemic in the summer of 2020. In March, the organization launched its second chapter here in D.C. through a two-week festival of dinners, discussions, and other events – and it will continue to blossom on May 2 at an outdoor Spring Market on 14th Street.

“As a response to the pandemic, we [in D.C.] informally began to facilitate communication among women food business owners,” says founding member of the D.C. chapter, longtime culinary leader, and owner of Pizzeria Paradiso, Ruth Gresser (she identifies as a lesbian). “Within just a few months, we created a strong network of monthly calls and regular collaborations. It is a space where women can come together in a very honest, open, and communal way.” After learning about similar efforts by Re:Her in Los Angeles, they joined forces to formalize their efforts.

For women in the food business, Gresser explains, “there are two fundamental challenges: access to capital and recognition.” 

While this lack of access is a systemic concern, Gresser says, the pandemic only reinforced it. Re:Her LA wasted no time in confronting these challenges and supporting female-identifying businesses: by July 2021, it had distributed $150,000 in small grants. The D.C. launch in March 2022 also raised thousands of dollars to support its programs. 

Beyond small business grants, Re:Her DC will focus its efforts on offering mentorship and other resources that directly benefit women in the culinary arts. Gresser notes that Re:Her will also work to support other issues important to women business owners, like pay gaps, childcare, and safe workplace environments. “We’re helping develop a more equitable future for women,” she says.

When Gresser launched her career 40 years ago in San Francisco, she came out as a lesbian at the same time. Moving to D.C. in the 1980s, she found a less welcoming environment in the food world. Yet she was soon able to open her own restaurant, Pizzeria Paradiso, ensuring that she could create the safe, inclusive work environment that she envisioned. Through Re:Her, “I can help create a future in which women in the industry have parity and equity.”

Another founding member, Jamie Leeds (a former Washington Blade Most Eligible Single), noted that, “straight or gay, any woman would benefit from becoming a member of this group. There are so few places to have this level of professionalism to be able to tap into, get advice, and commiserate.”

With Gresser, Leeds, and other members of the LGBTQ community in leadership positions at Re:Her DC, this opened the door to ensuring that Re:Her is a safe, open space, and could reach out to underrepresented groups – the LGBTQ community included. 

“The Re:Her DC group is a safe space to talk about things happening in our personal lives,” says member Shannan Troncoso, chef/owner of Brookland’s Finest. “I have been able to talk with other lesbian-identifying women (and with straight women) about family planning, fertility, and adoption.”

Gresser points out that the “LGBTQ community faces more disadvantages, so we are reaching out to try to get businesses that do identify as part of community to engage with us.” 

Re:Her states that empowering women creates a platform for growth while addressing inequality, social reform, and political awareness within our cities and neighborhoods. The D.C. chapter is open to all female restaurateurs, chefs, caterers, bakers, distillers, winemakers, bar owners, food truck operators, and other hospitality industry businesswomen. 

Coming off the successful March launch, Re:Her DC is hosting the upcoming Bites & Libations and Outdoor Spring Market at female-owned Cork Wine Bar & Market the evening of May 2. The food, drink, and artisan offerings all come from Re:Her members. 

“Regarding Her is an incredible community organization for women,” says Julie Verratti, owner of Denizen’s Brewing, and part of the LGBTQ community. “Representation matters and being able to be your full self amongst your peers is a privilege. I am so grateful to be a part of this group and can’t wait to meet more women being their authentic selves and excelling in their careers.”

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PHOTOS: National Champagne Brunch

Gov. Beshear honored at annual LGBTQ+ Victory Fund event

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Gov. Andy Beshear (D-Ky.) speaks at the LGBTQ+ Victory Fund National Champagne Brunch on Sunday, April 19. (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)

The LGBTQ+ Victory Fund National Champagne Brunch was held at Salamander Washington DC on Sunday, April 19. Gov. Andy Beshear (D-Ky.) was presented with the Allyship Award.

(Washington Blade photos by Michael Key)

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PHOTOS: Night of Champions

Team DC holds annual awards gala

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Team DC President Miguel Ayala speaks at the Night of Champions Awards Gala at the Georgetown Marriott on Saturday, April 18. (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)

The umbrella LGBTQ sports organization Team D.C. held its annual Night of Champions Gala at the Georgetown Marriott on Saturday, April 18. Team D.C. presented scholarships to local student athletes and presented awards to Adam Peck, Manuel Montelongo (a.k.a. Mari Con Carne), Dr. Sara Varghai, Dan Martin and the Centaur Motorcycle Club. Sean Bartel was posthumously honored with the Most Valuable Person Award.

(Washington Blade photos by Michael Key)

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Television

‘Big Mistakes’ an uneven – but worthy – comedic showcase

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Taylor Ortega and Dan Levy in ‘Big Mistakes.’ (Photo courtesy of Netflix)

In the years since “Schitt’s Creek” wrapped up its six season Emmy-winning run, nostalgia for it has grown deep – especially since the still painfully recent loss of its iconic leading lady, Catherine O’Hara, whose sudden passing prompted a social media wave of clips and tributes featuring her fan-favorite performance as the deliciously daft Moira Rose. Revisiting so many favorite scenes and funny moments from the show naturally reminded us of just how much we loved it, even needed it during the time it was on the air; it also reminded us of how much we miss it, and how much it feels now like something we need more than ever.

That, perhaps more than anything else, is why the arrival of “Big Mistakes” – the new Netflix series starring, co-created and co-written by Dan Levy – felt so welcome. We knew it wouldn’t be the Roses, but it seemed cut from the same cloth, and it had David Rose (or at least someone who seemed a lot like him) in the middle of a comically dysfunctional family dynamic, complete with a mother who gets involved in town politics and a catty sibling rivalry with his sister, and still nebbish-ly uncomfortable in his own gay shoes. Only this time, instead of running a charmingly pretentious boutique, he’s the pastor of the local church, and instead of a collection of kooky small town neighbors to contend with, there are gangsters.

As it turns out, it really does feel cut from the same cloth, but the design is distinctly different. Set in a fictional New Jersey suburb, it centers on Nicky (Levy) and his sister Morgan (Taylor Ortega) – he openly gay with an adoring boyfriend (Jacob Gutierrez), yet still obsessive about keeping it all invisible to his congregation, and she drudging aimlessly through life as an underpaid schoolteacher after failing to achieve her New York dreams of show biz success – who inadvertently become enmeshed in a shady underworld when a gesture for their dead grandmother’s funeral goes horribly awry.

They’re surrounded by a crew of equally compromised characters. There’s their mother Linda (Laurie Metcalf), whose campaign to become the town’s mayor only intensifies her tendency to micromanage her children’s lives; Yusuf (Boran Kuzum), the Turkish-American mini-mart operator who pulls them into the criminal conspiracy yet is himself a victim of it; Max (Jack Innanen), Morgan’s live-in boyfriend, who pushes her for a deeper commitment and is willing to go to couples’ therapy to prove it; Annette, his mother (Elizabeth Perkins), who lends her society standing toward helping Linda’s campaign against a misogynistic opponent (Darren Goldstein); and Ivan (Mark Ivanir), the seemingly ruthless crime boss who enslaves the siblings into his network but may really be just another slave himself. It’s a well-fleshed out assortment of characters that helps our own loyalties shift and adapt, generating at least a degree of empathy – if not always sympathy – that keeps everyone from coming off as a merely “black-and-white” caricature of expectations and typecasting.

To be sure, it’s an entertaining binge-watch, full of distinctive characters – all inhabiting familiar, even stereotypical roles in the narrative – who are each given a degree of validation, both in writing and performance, as the show unspools its narrative. At the same time, it makes for a fairly bleak overall view of humanity, in which it’s difficult to place our loyalties with anyone without also embracing a kind of “dog eat dog” morality in which nobody is truly innocent – but nobody is completely to blame for their sins, anyway.

In this way, it’s a show that lets us off the hook in the sense that it places the idea of ethical guilt within a framework of relative evils, as it permits us to forgive our own trespasses by accepting its “lovably” amoral characters, each of whom has their own reasons and justifications for what they do. We relate, but we can’t quite shake the notion that, if all these people hadn’t been so caught up in their own personal dramas, none of them would have ended up in the compromised morality that they’re in.

However, it’s not some bleak morality play that Levy and crew undertake; rather, it’s more an egalitarian fantasy in which even “bad” choices feel justified by inevitability. Everybody’s motivations make enough sense to us that it’s hard to judge any of the characters for making the choices – however unwise – that they do. In a system where everyone is forced to compromise themselves in order to achieve whatever dream of self-fulfillment they may have, how can anybody really blame themselves for doing what they have to do to survive?

Of course, all things considered, this is more a relatable comedy than it is a morality play. As a comedy of errors, it all works well enough on its own without imposing an ideology on it, no matter how much we may be tempted to do so. Indeed, what is ultimately more to the point is how well this pseudo-cynical exercise in the normalization of corruption – for that is what it really about, in the end – succeeds in letting us all off the hook for our compromises.

In the end, of course, maybe all that analysis is too deep a dive for a show that feels, in the end, like it’s meant to be mostly for fun. Indeed, despite its focus on being dragged into the shady side of life, the arc of its messaging seems to be less about a moralistic urge toward making the “right” choice than it is a candid recognition that all of us are compromised from the outset, often by choices we only force upon ourselves, and that’s a refreshing enough bit of honesty that we can easily get on board.

It helps that the performances are on point, especially the loony and wide-eyed fanaticism of Metcalf – surely the MVP of any project in which she is involved – and the directly focused moral malleability of Ortega; Levy, of course, is Levy – a now-familiar persona that can exist within any milieu without further justification than its own queer relatability – and, in this case, at least, that’s both the icing on the cake and substance that defines it. That’s enough to make it an essential view for fans, queer or otherwise, of his distinctive “brand,” even if he – or the show itself – doesn’t quite satisfy in the way that “Schitt’s Creek” was able to do.

Seriously, though, how could it?

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