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Kangaroo critique

Food truck barbecue operation opens sit-down spot in Columbia Heights

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Portions are generous at Kangaroo Boxing Club. (Blade photo by Michael Key)

The still-new Kangaroo Boxing Club, which opened at 3410 11th Street NW in June, is a brick-and-mortar spin-off of the PORC food truck which its owners envision as a laid-back eatery where barbecue lovers can get in a restaurant the kind of food they serve in their food trucks.

Proprietors John Saltzman, Trent Allen, Peyton Sherwood, Chris Powers and Zack Spencer have opened a spot that consists of seven indoor tables, a few seats at the bar and limited patio seating. In November, I reviewed the PORC food truck and with the new establishment I was expecting a much-elevated version of the food. Unfortunately this was not to be.

We arrived and were seated in the front window seat. The waiter piled rustic wooden clipboards with the menu attached haphazardly on the table and scurried away. When he returned for our drink order, he directed us to a barely visible chalkboard across the bar. All I could see was the beer selections that were crossed off, indicating that they were out.

While we had his attention we selected the “Meat Board” appetizer that has pulled pork, Smokey Joe — beef smothered in barbecue sauce — and pastrami. It was served with a blueberry habanero salsa and three microscopic pieces of crostini. We did order more crostini but it didn’t arrive until after our entrees. This platter was met with a lukewarm reception from the table, partly because the meats were lukewarm and partly because they lacked a key element: flavor. I believe that sauces shouldn’t provide the only flavor for food, but they should enhance it; the blueberry habanero salsa didn’t do either. It fell flat, not even delivering the heat one expects from habaneros.

Our meat-centric entrees included pulled pork sandwiches, three little pigs platter, and the pastrami sandwich. I planned on ordering the Big Bad Wolf Burger that comes with ham, bacon and pulled pork, with the Costanza Burger patty instead of the standard, because it is described as the most sensual of burgers. However the waiter never asked me which I wanted, nor did he ask how I wanted it cooked. I was barely able to request cheddar cheese on the burger before he rushed off. With most entrees you have your choice of sides including collard greens, mac and cheese, barbecue beans, Johnny Cakes and fries. We chose a variety of these sides, although most of us also added the mac and cheese.

Our entrees arrived, moments after the appetizer. The pastrami sandwich could have fed four people and the pulled pork was erupting from the bun. My burger was on a thick slice of ham, pulled pork piled high and two pieces of bacon crisscrossed over top. It was missing the cheese, but I am not sure where that would have been placed anyway.

I smashed the top bun down and struggled to fit the sandwich in my mouth. My first sloppy bite was a preview to my disappointment — the patty was overcooked, the pulled pork was bland and dry and even the bacon couldn’t save it. I splashed on some hot sauce, but I quickly gave up. My mac and cheese, also ordered with bacon because I couldn’t resist adding more meat to this meal, had too much goopy sauce on top and the noodles were undercooked. The bite of blue cheese was barely evident in the sauce. Most startling however, was that all four mac-and-cheese sides at the table were significantly different.

Not all was disappointing, though. The Johnny Cakes were perfectly prepared. The meat-soaked collard greens and pastrami sandwich showed potential.

And while several of the offerings were lackluster, the overarching problem at Kangaroo Boxing Club is service. They need to slow down and pay attention to the needs of the patron. The only focus seems to be turning tables, and that is creating rushed, poorly prepared and inconsistent meals. It feels like they’re operating a stationary food truck at the peak of lunch rush. If they slow down and concentrate on the food, then Kangaroo Boxing Club could bring excellent barbeque to Columbia Heights. If the food is extraordinary, then people will be willing to wait. Until then, this offers little you can’t get at the food truck.

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PHOTOS: Capital Pride Pageant

Court crowned at Penn Social event

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From left, Zander Childs Valentino, Sasha Adams Sanchez and Dylan B. Dickherson White are crowned the winners at a pageant at Penn Social on April 26. (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)

Eight contestants vied for Mr., Miss and Mx. Capital Pride 2024 at a pageant at Penn Social on Saturday. Xander Childs Valentino was crowned Mr. Capital Pride, Dylan B. Dickherson White was crowned Mx. Capital Pride and Sasha Adams Sanchez was crowned Miss Capital Pride.

(Washington Blade photos by Michael Key)

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Theater

Round House explores serious issues related to privilege

‘A Jumping-Off Point’ is absorbing, timely, and funny

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Cristina Pitter (Miriam) and Nikkole Salter (Leslie) in ‘A Jumping-Off Point’ at Round House Theatre. (Photo by Margot Schulman Photography)

‘A Jumping-Off Point’
Through May 5
Round House Theatre
4545 East-West Highway, Bethesda, Md.
$46-$83
Roundhousetheatre.org

In Inda Craig-Galván’s new play “A Jumping-Off Point,” protagonist Leslie Wallace, a rising Black dramatist, believes strongly in writing about what you know. Clearly, Craig-Galván, a real-life successful Black playwright and television writer, adheres to the same maxim. Whether further details from the play are drawn from her life, is up for speculation.

Absorbing, timely, and often funny, the current Round House Theatre offering explores some serious issues surrounding privilege and who gets to write about what. Nimbly staged and acted by a pitch perfect cast, the play moves swiftly across what feels like familiar territory without being the least bit predictable. 

After a tense wait, Leslie (Nikkole Salter) learns she’s been hired to be showrunner and head writer for a new HBO MAX prestige series. What ought to be a heady time for the ambitious young woman quickly goes sour when a white man bearing accusations shows up at her door. 

The uninvited visitor is Andrew (Danny Gavigan), a fellow student from Leslie’s graduate playwriting program. The pair were never friends. In fact, he pressed all of her buttons without even trying. She views him as a lazy, advantaged guy destined to fail up, and finds his choosing to dramatize the African American Mississippi Delta experience especially annoying. 

Since grad school, Leslie has had a play successfully produced in New York and now she’s on the cusp of making it big in Los Angeles while Andrew is bagging groceries at Ralph’s. (In fact, we’ll discover that he’s a held a series of wide-ranging temporary jobs, picking up a lot of information from each, a habit that will serve him later on, but I digress.) 

Their conversation is awkward as Andrew’s demeanor shifts back and forth from stiltedly polite to borderline threatening. Eventually, he makes his point: Andrew claims that Leslie’s current success is entirely built on her having plagiarized his script. 

This increasingly uncomfortable set-to is interrupted by Leslie’s wisecracking best friend and roommate Miriam who has a knack for making things worse before making them better. Deliciously played by Cristina Pitter (whose program bio describes them as “a queer multi-spirit Afro-indigenous artist, abolitionist, and alchemist”), Miriam is the perfect third character in Craig-Galván’s deftly balanced three-hander. 

Cast members’ performances are layered. Salter’s Leslie is all charm, practicality, and controlled ambition, and Gavigan’s Andrew is an organic amalgam of vulnerable, goofy, and menacing. He’s terrific. 

The 90-minute dramedy isn’t without some improbable narrative turns, but fortunately they lead to some interesting places where provoking questions are representation, entitlement, what constitutes plagiarism, etc. It’s all discussion-worthy topics, here pleasingly tempered with humor. 

New York-based director Jade King Carroll skillfully helms the production. Scenes transition smoothly in large part due to a top-notch design team. Scenic designer Meghan Raham’s revolving set seamlessly goes from Leslie’s attractive apartment to smart cafes to an HBO writers’ room with the requisite long table and essential white board. Adding to the graceful storytelling are sound and lighting design by Michael Keck and Amith Chandrashaker, respectively. 

The passage of time and circumstances are perceptively reflected in costume designer Moyenda Kulemeka’s sartorial choices: heels rise higher, baseball caps are doffed and jackets donned.

“A Jumping-Off Point” is the centerpiece of the third National Capital New Play Festival, an annual event celebrating new work by some of the country’s leading playwrights and newer voices. 

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Nightlife

Ed Bailey brings Secret Garden to Project GLOW festival

An LGBTQ-inclusive dance space at RFK this weekend

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Ed Bailey's set at last year's Project Glow. (Photo courtesy Bailey)

When does a garden GLOW? When it’s run by famed local gay DJ Ed Bailey.

This weekend, music festival Project GLOW at RFK Festival Grounds will feature Bailey’s brainchild the Secret Garden, a unique space just for the LGBTQ community that he launched in 2023.

While Project GLOW, running April 27-28, is a stage for massive electronic DJ sets in a large outdoor space, Secret Garden is more intimate, though no less adrenaline-forward. He’s bringing the nightclub to the festival. The garden is a dance area that complements the larger stages, but also stands on its own as a draw for festival-goers. Its focus is on DJs that have a presence and following in the LGBTQ audience world.

“The Secret Garden is a showcase for what LGBTQ nightlife, and nightclubs in general, are all about,” he says. “True club DJs playing club music for people that want to dance in a fun environment that is high energy and low stress. It’s the cool party inside the bigger party.”

Project GLOW launched in 2022. Bailey connected with the operators after the first event, and they discussed Bailey curating his own space for 2023. “They were very clear that they wanted me to lean into the vibrant LGBTQ nightlife of D.C. and allow that community to be very visibly a part of this area.”

Last year, club icon Kevin Aviance headlined the Secret Garden. The GLOW festival organizers loved the its energy from last year, and so asked Bailey to bring it back again, with an entire year to plan.

This year, Bailey says, he is “bringing in more D.C. nightlife legends.” Among those are DJ Sedrick, “a DJ and entertainer legend. He was a pivotal part of Tracks nightclub and is such a dynamic force of entertainment,” says Bailey. “I am excited for a whole new audience to be able to experience his very special brand of DJing!”

Also, this year brings in Illustrious Blacks, a worldwide DJ duo with roots in D.C.; and “house music legends” DJs Derrick Carter and DJ Spen.

Bailey is focusing on D.C.’s local talent, with a lineup including Diyanna Monet, Strikestone!, Dvonne, Baronhawk Poitier, THABLACKGOD, Get Face, Franxx, Baby Weight, and Flower Factory DJs KS, Joann Fabrixx, and PWRPUFF. 

 Secret Garden also brings in performers who meld music with dance, theater, and audience interactions for a multi-sensory experience.

Bailey is an owner of Trade and Number Nine, and was previously an owner of Town Danceboutique. Over the last 35 years, Bailey owned and operated more than 10 bars and clubs in D.C. He has an impressive resume, too. Since starting in 1987, he’s DJ’d across the world for parties and nightclubs large and intimate. He says that he opened “in concert for Kylie Minogue, DJed with Junior Vasquez, played giant 10,000-person events, and small underground parties.” He’s also held residencies at clubs in Atlanta, Miami, and here in D.C. at Tracks, Nation, and Town. 

With Secret Garden, Bailey and GLOW aim to bring queer performers into the space not just for LGBTQ audiences, but for the entire music community to meet, learn about, and enjoy. While they might enjoy fandom among queer nightlife, this Garden is a platform for them to meet the entirety of GLOW festival goers.

Weekend-long Project GLOW brings in headliners and artists from EDM and electronic music, with big names like ILLENIUM, Zedd, and  Rezz. In all, more than 50 artists will take the three stages at the third edition of Project GLOW, presented by Insomniac (Electric Daisy Carnival) and Club Glow (Echostage, Soundcheck).

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