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New design destination

Nova Fashion Week organizers hope to make D.C. a cutting edge hub 

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Washington has never been known as a fashion town but there’s a movement brewing that wants to change that perception.

This weekend top designers and their models will unveil eye-catching new looks for their spring/summer 2011 lines ranging from elegant high-end evening wear for men and women to urban skateboard punk-chic hoodies.

It’s all on the high fashion runway at the Hilton Alexandria Mark Center (5000 Seminary Road, Alexandria —note the location change from what was originally announced) through Sunday in Old Town Alexandria — and well worth seeing it up close. More than 50 top area models will glide, turn, vamp and pose.

It’s the second annual charities benefit Nova Fashion Week. Last year it drew a crowd of about 4,000 onlookers — including store buyers and lifestyle fashionistas — to check out the next big things in wardrobe and accessories. Organizers say a last-minute change in locale was required by the city.

This weekend’s event follows on the heels of Georgetown’s mid-September Fashion Night Out and features the bold-colored newest look from gay designer Ra’mon Lawrence Coleman, the Minneapolis-based “Project Runway” alum. Ra’mon shows his new collection “Give Them Grace” — built around the iconic and androgynous look of actress and performer Grace Jones — at 8 p.m. Saturday.

“A lot of people say that the D.C. area is not a trendsetter, but I beg to differ,” says Fashion Week executive director Andrew Roby. “Because we do have talented designers here. And we are also drawing designers from California and the Caribbean, so there’s diversity.”

“There are simply no set boundaries in this industry,” says Roby, at 28 an experienced event planner but also for several years earlier in this decade a model himself.

He got his own start in fashion in 2003 planning shows for — yes, it’s hard to believe — the U.S. Army, where he staged fashion events for BOSS (Better Opportunities for Single Servicemembers), which offers recreation and leisure activities for  unmarried soldiers who make up more than a third of those in uniform. Roby says D.C. can rival the other fashion centers like New York or Milan in time.

The high-end fashion industry has long defined itself as an art form as well as a commercial enterprise. Much of its cachet was rooted in its perceived “haute couture” exclusivity. The sky-high prices could therefore be justified. After all, creativity must be cultivated. Artists cost money. And the field comes also with an overlay of snobby privilege that can easily shade over into the snotty.

But that’s not the flavor of Nova Fashion Week, which Roby intends to be accessible and wide-ranging in its tastes. The designers will show their latest lines for spring and summer — and don’t be surprised if you see such styles catch on, eventually anyway. For what starts at the top of the fashion pyramid usually shows up later, knocked-off and displayed on mass-market mannequins.

This weekend in Alexandria locals can see some of each — the high-end and the low-cost — and pick out what works starting tonight at 8 with the high-end of true haute-couture (French for high-sewing) of the KAS Collection, and ending at 5 p.m. Sunday with the street savvy of the urban skater-punk of DURKL 2047.

This weekend’s featured designers are:

KAS COLLECTION — 8 p.m. Friday

These are the highly exclusive, upscale urban designs of D.C.-based Kenneth E. Flanagan, proprietor of the House of KAS. He has incorporated the names of his two daughters, Alexis and Sydney, into his nameplate. Since 1996, his specialty is sophisticated eveningwear and high-style business suits for both men and women. Self-taught, he designs for political figures and entertainment and sports superstars including hip-hop musicians and music video models.

NATALIA SANZ — 2 p.m. Saturday

Chic, modern and sleek and inspired, she says, by “architecture and geometry,” this is the signature look of Natalia Sanz. A Maryland native trained in fashion design at Miami International University of Art and Design, she then returned to the D.C. area and now produces two collections each year from her studio in Silver Spring. Her spring 2011 collection, she says, will show “vivid colors and feminine silhouettes, inspired by ancient Greek draping.”

AIDAH COLLECTION — 5 p.m. Saturday

Since the launch of the Aidah Collection in spring 2008, the designer Aidah Fontenot has proclaimed her fashion philosophy this way: “Be unique. Be confident. Be sexy.” And she sees her hand-made designs of one-of-a-kind pieces as “inspired by the organic beauty of nature within urban existence.”

RA’MON LAWRENCE COLEMAN — 8 p.m. Saturday

Ra’mon Coleman, a gay, 32 year-old Chicago-born designer, vaulted to fame from his 2009 appearance on the reality TV “Project Runway” design competition. Ra’mon calls himself “the thinking man’s designer” and shows his work through the Mudd label for the giant mid-priced Kohl’s department store chain. But for Fashion Week, he will showing his newest designs for both men and women. His colors will be bold, he says, some inspired by the style of Grace Jones, and also featuring a futuristic spin, forecasting a look for then year 2033.

ELIZABETH ST JOHN — 1 p.m. Sunday

The daughter of a master tailor and a fourth-generation designer, Elizabeth St John apprenticed as a designer at age 5 in her mother’s workshop. But then at the University of Maryland, she turned to a degree in environmental studies and for more than a decade worked in rainforest preservation.

This led, last spring, to her Eco-Couture line of bridal and eveningwear, combining flirtation and femininity with classic elegance. By 2012 she hopes her Silver Spring studio with be completely solar- and wind-powered.

ANDREW HARRIS — 3 p.m. Sunday

Guyana-born and educated and now Barbadian-based, Andrew Harris Jr. has been labeled “the Prince of Caribbean men’s designs.” He established his men’s wear label in 2007, showing vintage cuts tempered with modern styling in cottons and linens. In 2008, he won the Carifesta X design competition in Guyana as “designer of the year,” beating out six competitors.

DURKL 2047 — 5 p.m. Sunday

Thirty-year-old Will Sharp is cutting edge urban punk. His label name “DURKL” is intentionally absurd and 2047 is simply another way to say 24/7, in other words, the designs are for around the clock, for “whenever.” The label is deliberately “flashy” and “inspired,” says Sharp, “by formerly hilarious trends and seventh grade dances,” with its mission proclaimed with a touch of irony as “high quality, low standards.” DURKL’s warehouse store is at 443 Eye St., N.W. and its distinctive look in street wear – hats, graphic T-shirts and sweats – can also be found at Palace 5ive, D.C.’s skater shop, also with a big collection of sneakers and a hip-hop funkadelic beat.

All the Nova Fashion Week events are at the Hilton Alexandria Mark Center. Ticket prices for each show mostly range from $50 for front rows to $10 farther back. Proceeds will go to various charities, including the Lupus Foundation of America, Susan G. Komen for the Cure and Baby Haven.

To purchase tickets and for more information on the event and designers, go here.

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Lesbian Bar Project co-founder: purity politics could destroy our remaining spaces

Last Ditch’s decision to lift its mask requirement for one night a week has sparked intra-queer controversy

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(Design by Soph Holland)

Uncloseted Media published this story on Sept. 29

By ERICA ROSE and THE LESBIAN BAR PROJECT | As a professional lesbian and Massachusetts native, I’ve recently been asked by a lot of folks what I think about the saga unfolding at Last Ditch. The now-viral story, first reported by the Boston Globe, centers on a Western Massachusetts lesbian bar that lifted its mask requirement for one night a week to help drum up business.

The decision ignited an intra-queer controversy that has been feasted on by media outlets across the political spectrum — from the New York Post to LGBTQ Nation — and is even reportedly being eyed for a Hollywood adaptation. Apparently nothing is more entertaining than a bunch of lesbians and queers fighting with each other over KN-95s.

What has been lost in all of the chatter and media coverage is the very real possibility that Last Ditch, which just opened in April 2025, will have to close its doors. The venue’s one remaining founder, Jackie Matellian, revealed in a community Zoom meeting that she’s working four jobs, is now solely responsible for the bar’s $50,000 business loan and is struggling to keep up with the bills. So as we laugh about the controversy’s similarity to a “Portlandia” skit and how one of the bar’s founders left to enroll in clown school, we forget that yet another lesbian bar is facing an existential crisis — and this time the call is coming from inside the house.

In 2020, my friend Elina Street and I created The Lesbian Bar Project, an Emmy-, Webby- and GLAAD Media Award-winning docuseries and initiative that tells the stories of lesbian queer bars around the world. We were moved to act because at the time there were only an estimated 16 lesbian bars in the United States, and the pandemic threatened to bring that number down even further.

There are now more sapphic bars than there were just before the pandemic — about 36 of them in total — but this is down from approximately 200 in 1980. Maybe that doesn’t mean much to you, but for the millions of sapphics living in the U.S., this number is calamitous.

As the world laughs at lesbians and sapphics, I want to take a second and tell you what I feel when I walk into one of these bars, which are all unique and irreplaceable in their own way: I feel seen.

Sometimes I think Cubbyhole in New York City’s West Village neighborhood knew I was gay before I did. When I walked in there for the first time, before I was even out, I was transfixed by the colorful array of tchotchkes hanging from the ceiling and how the women standing next to me were completely unafraid to express their desire for one another. I knew the minute I was ready to come out, I had a home. I also felt the joy of a new couple falling in love at Seattle’s Wildrose, the quiet confidence of a short king lining up her shot at the pool table at Ginger’s in Brooklyn and the kick of cayenne pepper in Julie Mabry’s crawfish at Houston’s Pearl Bar.

Lesbian bars don’t just serve lesbians; they serve queer folks across the spectrum, including bisexual, pansexual and trans people. As Elina and I traveled across the U.S. and Europe and to parts of Latin America to document the bar owners, staff and patrons that make up the ecosystems of these spaces, we also became uniquely acquainted with the factors that threaten their existence: gentrification, wage gaps, sexism, environmental disasters, gun violence, rising insurance premiums and political administrations working to annihilate queer people and their families.

Lesbian bar owners, like all leaders and entrepreneurs, are imperfect. There have been significant issues over the years at lesbian bars: employee harassment, racism, lack of accessibility, sexual assault and transphobia. All bar owners should be held accountable and should listen to their communities to evolve into safer and more equitable spaces. I also acknowledge my privilege: I am able-bodied, white, cis and from a family system that loves me for who I am. Not everyone has that.

Queer people, especially trans and bisexual people, are suffering from disproportionately high levels of depression, and our mental health system isn’t equipped to support them. Immunocompromised people and long COVID are real, and many of my friends are suffering to this day. The people with the least safety net are often the ones for whom a bar closing costs the most. And yet, as we’re seeing with Last Ditch, the queer community often lashes out at each other. It’s also the mainstream media taking the internal conflict and making a mockery out of it, distracting from the real possibility that this bar could close due to financial pressures. A bar that many people loved and needed is facing extinction. Perhaps it’s safer to dissent with one another than with the larger forces trying to eradicate us, but in doing so, we risk destroying the few spaces we have left.

Due to the constraints of purity politics — some in good faith, some not so much — lesbian bar owners, almost all of whom are queer women themselves, are forced to be everything for everyone, similarly to how women are forced to be everything for everyone. By asking these bars to uphold impossible standards — standards very few other third spaces are asked to consider — we all end up losing.

I want to move as a community toward dialogue, compassionate dissent and collaboration to make our spaces better with the goal of keeping them OPEN and thriving, rather than destroying them from the inside with expectations that are arguably unattainable.

While I have your attention — for this fleeting second of the news cycle — may I urge us to spearhead a way to keep these small businesses afloat without attacking our own community along the way? Bar owners are left with an impasse: They want to be community-centered, but they also have to make money to keep their doors open. Sometimes they might make business decisions that don’t work for everyone — and that’s partly because different patrons have different priorities and want different things — but these owners deserve the opportunity for productive dialogue. We have to work with them and with each other to keep our spaces open, to keep them growing.

Lesbian bars raised me into the queer woman I am today. One thing I think about as I reflect on the six years of work we’ve done to document these spaces is that shared, unspoken language I have with a stranger the moment we both walk into one of these bars: the nod, the ease, the not having to explain ourselves. I don’t want to lose that, and neither should you.

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Bars & Parties

Queer Magic dance party planned

Tarot, dancing, drag and more at Black Cat event

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Celebrate the start of Pride month at the Queer Magic Dance Party at the Black Cat on Saturday, June 6. Doors open at 9 p.m.

There will be pole performances and demonstrations, a free photo booth with glitter bar, a queer vendor market, tarot readings by Skye Marinda Tarot, a drag performance by Sapphica, and dancing to a blend of smooth R&B, Afrobeats, hip-hop and pop by Slammer & Saba. Tickets are $20 at the door or $15 (plus fees) in advance, purchased here.

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Bars & Parties

Here’s where to watch ‘RuPaul’s Drag Race’ with fellow fans

Entertainers TrevHER and Grey host event with live performance

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(Photo by New Africa/Bigstock)

Spark Social Events will host “Ru Paul’s Drag Race S18 Watch Party Hosted by Local Drag Queens” on Friday, Jan. 23 at 8 p.m.

Drag entertainers TrevHER and Grey will provide commentary and make live predictions on who’s staying and who’s going home. Stick around after the show for a live drag performance. The watch party will take place on a heated outdoor patio and cozy indoor space.

This event is free and more details are available on Eventbrite.

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