Lupo Verde (1401 T St. N.W.) opened last month after many delays and is one of the newest additions to the 14th Street corridor.
Owned by Med Lalou and Antonio Matarazzo of the Lalou Group, Lupo specializes in rustic Italian fare. It’s a nice thought, but with so many restaurants nearby offering Italian food and pizza, it remains to be seen if it will be able to distinguish itself with its extensive cheese offerings, small plates and dinner plates as large as a whole roasted fish.
This intimate restaurant spans two levels with the first level lounge area dominated by a 15-person bar made of beautiful Carrarra marble. Upon entering, we were brought upstairs to a richly appointed but comfortable dining room with small groupings of tables throughout. The high ceilings and large windows helped open up the space while the brick walls and rich wall coverings kept it warm and inviting. We were seated in the back corner of the upper level with a couple other small groups of diners, a cozy setup that had the one downfall of being able to hear entire conversations.
Chef de Cuisine Domenico Appollaro is a native of Italy who moved to Washington for this position. He graduated from culinary school in Italy and prior to joining the Lupo Verde team, he was executive chef at Eat’s Easy Restaurante in Milan. He has also served as executive chef of Osteria Vista in Lachen Zurich. His culinary career started in 1994 when he began working his summers at Hotel Hermitage in Portoferraio, Italy.
Almost 70 percent of the menu is available to go, including 50 cheeses, five of which will be made in house. Lupo Verde has even adopted a sheep named Lupetta to assist in the onsite cheese making process, so once we were seated it seemed like it was only appropriate to start the dining experience with cheese.
When our waiter approached we asked him to select his favorite cheeses for us to pair with the two meats we had already selected; the handcarved prosciutto de parma and the capocollo picante. He selected three wonderful and pungent cheeses — the semi hard sottocenere del plave, the hard and peppery pecorino pepato and the castelmagno hard cow and sheep blend. The presentation of this cheese board itself is as impressive as the cheeses with all the meats and cheeses smartly labeled and any additional accoutrements you could have wanted included. The board filled a majority of the table as well as the next 20 minutes.
When the waiter sensed we had reached the end of our cheese endeavor he asked if we would like to continue. I was instantly inspired by some of the courses on the menu but I was also torn. Part of me really wanted to enjoy the comforts of what looked like a perfectly prepared lasagna. Instead of making a decision, I ordered the lasagna complete with meatballs, sausage and a creamy béchamel sauce as well as the spezzatino — lamb stew with riso venere and sweet pepper sauce. My dining companion opted for the special pappardelle with a lamb ragu. The gorgeously presented lasagna was a glorious combination of sweet, spicy, rich and creamy with the smoothness of the homemade pasta, the flavors were truly amazing. The only downside was served on the cool side, unfortunately the same temperature issues were evident with the pappardelle as well although the lamb and sauce both had an excellent flavor profile.
I was beginning to wonder if I was going to regret my earlier indecision, but that faded away as soon as the spezzatino was placed in front of us. The chunks of lamb were juicy and tender with a light sweetness that was accentuated by the sweet pepper sauce. The lamb was placed on a bed of riso venere; a rare black rice of Chinese origin that grows in the Piedmont region of Italy. The nutty rich flavor of the rice added another fantastic dimension to this dish and although both of our stomachs were full, we managed to clear the plate.
Ordering two entrées did prevent me from choosing one of the desserts on the menu, but it does provide me with a reason to go back to this restaurant, besides just purchasing abundant amounts of cheese. Hopefully, when I next visit the flavors are just as outstanding as on this visit, the meals are prepped a bit more evenly and served warm, the cheese course continues to be outstanding and I manage to save room for dessert. If all of this happens consistently, then Lupo Verde will be one of 14th Streets premiere restaurants.
Award-winning chef on pasta, pandemic, and queer visibility
Richmond’s Laine Myers among StarChefs Rising Stars honorees
Laine Myers is bringing pasta to the people. Through her dishes, Myers has received critical acclaim – and through her identity, has elevated her community.
Myers was named as part of the elite 2022 cadre of D.C.-area StarChefs Rising Stars. The awardees are a collection of emerging chefs and bartenders recognized by StarChefs, an industry group that supports the restaurant world.
Myers, who identifies as queer and as part of the LGBTQ community, is blazing a unique path through the Richmond culinary scene. “My queerness has become my brand,” she says. “People feel comfortable talking to us – it’s the trust that we create,” as much as the pasta, she notes.
Myers and the other Rising Stars were “recognized by StarChefs for their culinary strengths, charitable contributions to the DMV, and their ability to navigate, lead, and inspire,” according to StarChefs.
Originally from Connecticut, Myers was an undergraduate when she began cooking professionally. She soon landed at Graffiato, which was Richmond’s biggest new restaurant at the time from (now-disgraced) celebrity chef Mike Isabella. While there, she fell in love with the pasta station. She soon moved on to a restaurant from another Rising Star and Top Chef alum, Brittany Anderson. Finally, she was named executive chef at Nota Bene in 2019, while simultaneously founding Oro, a pop-up focused on seasonal and vegetable-forward hand-made pasta and other Italian dishes.
When the pandemic hit, Myers quickly realized that a traditional restaurant format was unsustainable. She left Nota Bene to concentrate on Oro.
The pandemic offered opportunity – and challenges. “On one hand, it gave me time to reset and really identify how I wanted to conduct both myself and my business moving forward in an industry that was heavily scrutinized for the poor work environment it’s notoriously known for,” she says. “On the other hand, much of the pandemic has felt improvisation, and like survival.” Myers noted that she encountered significant discrimination as a woman and queer professional in the kitchen, only thriving later under women-led restaurants and later especially as an entrepreneur and owner herself.
Today, she runs her own business with her partner. “We are the face of Oro, and I think our queerness has been roped into the brand.” When she brings Oro to farmers’ markets, she notes the support from the LGBTQ community and Oro has become a de facto LGBTQ caterer of choice. “We get approached by gay couples constantly. There’s intention, trust, and understanding.”
Establishing these grassroots, core community relationships brought her through the pandemic – and allowed her to gain visibility in a male, hetero-dominated industry. Running Oro through the pandemic laid bare her priorities: both pasta and connecting with the local LGBTQ community.
Oro operates currently out of a small commissary kitchen in Hatch Café. Her creative offerings run from a “Cinderella Pumpkin Casconcelli” with dates, toasted pepitas, Parmesan, and rosemary, to a charred pappardelle with sweet baby cauliflower and a jammy egg. Beyond the pasta, she churns out antipasti like beet-butternut caponata and desserts like a walnut tart and borscht cheesecake. Beyond crafting small-batch pasta for farmers’ markets and gay weddings, Myers also offers retail and wholesale pasta, and runs a rotating supper club.
StarChefs gave Myers the award because she “expertly executed pasta centric dishes reflect both art and craft. They are the honest fruit of years of hard work both developing her creative personal cooking style and perfecting her past game – and the Richmond dining scene is all the better for it, states StarChefs Managing Partner Will Blunt. Others receiving the award include D.C.-based chefs Paolo Dungca of Pogiboy, Angel Barreto of Anju, and the team behind RASA. StarChefs is running a two-week promotion through March 29 is showcasing the 2022 D.C.-area restaurants “that best represent the future of American dining.”
Up Next, Myers plans to continue being creative and flexible. She’s looking to create a brick-and-mortar daytime pasta-crafting kitchen, shop, and education center that also offers “sexy dinner service at night.”
She believes that “there needs to be holistic change in the industry. I must have space where workers can thrive and be well. We can’t go back to the old model of 80 hours a week.”
“If I can’t ask someone else to do it how can I ask myself to do it? That is certainly a queer perspective,” Myers concludes.
8 new D.C. restaurants to try this spring
Plus how local foodies are helping the people of Ukraine
With the lifting of mask mandates, the D.C. dining scene is back. While the restaurant industry is in flux, it’s more important than ever that diners support local eateries. The city’s restaurants will continue to grow, expand, and showcase creativity. With that, read on for four restaurants that have opened thus far in 2022, and four restaurants to look forward to.
We would also be remiss if we did not mention the city’s incredible outpouring of support for Ukraine. One dining option to support relief efforts in Ukraine is called #ChefsForUkraine – a fundraising event on March 21 at 6:30 p.m. at Moon Rabbit benefitting World Central Kitchen (run by D.C.’s own José Andres) efforts in Ukraine. The power of food to foment real change has never been more at the forefront.
In addition, Casey Patten (owner, Grazie Grazie) and Matt Adler of Caruso’s Grocery are working with some of of D.C.’s best chefs to host The Belly Full Pizza Pop-Up. This two-day dining event March 13-14 donates 100% of proceeds to feed Ukrainian refugees through World Central Kitchen’s relief efforts in the neighboring countries of Ukraine. Belly Full also offers an opportunity for corporate organizations to match revenue generated from the event. Orders can be placed via Tock.
• Honeymoon Chicken. Twenty-four-hour brined fried chicken has come to roost in Petworth in the old Slim’s Diner space. Chef Rob Sonderman, who has run BBQ joint Federalist Pig, is leading this charge. Honeymoon is working to “elevate ingredients, techniques and flavors that can transform the humble art of fried chicken into a culinary masterpiece.” There are also plenty of sides like roast cauliflower and sandwiches and salads (that can be topped with fried chicken, of course).
• London Curry House. The owner of festive Bombay Street Food and Butter Chicken Company is bringing a taste of England to U Street. The focus: the 75-seat dining room packed with imported eye candy, from Anthony Bourdain and Big Ben murals to a red phone booth. The other focus: piquant, sizzling curries from London. There’s also a fish and chips dish that dunks potato wedges in one of the fiercest curries in the house. A good sampler is a trio of the chicken tikka masala (a national dish), goat curry, and lamb rogan josh in a creamy tomato curry.
• Mariscos 1133. Another restaurant from celebrated local owners: siblings Alfredo and Jessica Solis, of the Mexican restaurants El Sol, Mezcalero, and Anafre, have opened this seafood-centric restaurant in Logan Circle. The duo state that the restaurant was “inspired by their Mexico City upbringing and their favorite dishes from their travels though Latin America.” The menu includes a host of ceviches and salads to start, plus sandwiches, shrimp tacos, and a decadent lobster. The bar menu includes host of margaritas and Mexican beers.
• Call Your Mother. Some of D.C.’s favorite carbs have arrived in yet another location (now its seventh) in Logan Circle, right down the street from Number Nine. The lauded local bagel shop run by Daniela Moreira and Andrew Dana opened its flagship location in Park View in 2018. They also own nearby Timber Pizza. While bagels are the signature, they also serve beloved creative bagel sandwiches and “Jew-ish” deli favorites from lox to pastrami. The new Maryland location recently started serving dinner.
• Expat. Chef and restaurateur Tim Ma, who has helmed kitchens and bar programs from Bar Chinoise to now-closed Kyirisan, and one of the leaders of Chefs Stopping AAPI Hate, is teaming with two others to open this sports bar in the massive new Western Market in Foggy Bottom. The bar will offer “chef-driven, Southern leaning spins on bar food, fun cocktails, and ample space to view sporting events and relax with friends,” according to a representative. The bar plans to allow customers to place bets using an app on their smartphones.
• Kaimaki. Philotimo, a chic Greek restaurant reminiscent of both sea and mountains, opened with much fanfare at downtown’s new Midtown Center earlier this year. Now, Chef Nick Stefanelli (Officina, Masseria) will open a little sibling next door. This side piece with similar décor will offer a morning-to-evening coffee program, with a smaller menu based on Philotimo’s. It will transform into a wine bar in the evening with an extensive cellar.
• Causa. The owners behind vibe-y U Street mainstay Service Bar are set to open a new restaurant in Blagden Alley, more than two years in the making. Causa will be a Peruvian restaurant, homing in on both meats and seafood. It will have an extensive cocktail menu, with Pisco sours as well as other beverage nods to Peru, a “Pisco Club” is in the works. There will be both a tasting menu and a la carte items.
• Love, Makoto. At 9,000 square feet, this sumptuous and spacious Japanese food hall is set to land in Capitol Crossing, just west of Union Station. Chef Makoto Okuwa and Eric Eden are running this “Japanese culinary collection,” with everything from a ramen stand to a bakery to omakase sushi. There will also be a market for grab-and-go, plus dry goods.
Celebrate omicron’s decline this Valentine’s Day
Dinner out can be first step toward normalcy
As the city climbs out of Omicron, Valentine’s Day can be a first step to catching up on everything we haven’t been able to take advantage of the past two years. Below is a select list of food, drink, and other events to celebrate.
City Winery in Northeast was founded in New York City to deliver combined culinary and cultural experience to “urban wine enthusiasts.” A full-service winery, it offers a wide range of wines (everything from Syrah to pinot blanc) that are made right in D.C. There’s also a full-service restaurant, The Barrel, with a wine-inspired, globally influenced menu, made for pairing with wine.
The winery event space has a host of performances to woo your sweetheart. Kicking off the weekend on Feb. 12, is “Love Song with Miss Frenchie Davis.” Frenchie Davis, from Los Angeles and a graduate of Howard University, has performed on Broadway and NBC’s The Voice. An advocate for the African-American community, the LGBTQ community, and people of color, Frenchie continues to wow audiences with her wit and versatile talent. Also on Feb. 12 is Algebra Blessett, an R&B artist from of Atlanta. She has earned a reputation as one of that city’s most exciting new talents. Finally, on Feb. 14, look out for a performance by Antonio “Tony” Terry, an American soul/new-jack swing singer from Washington, D.C., and a graduate of the Duke Ellington School.
In Alexandria, the French-American brasserie Bastille goes down the romantic lane with its Valentine’s Day event. The restaurant is serving a three-course prix-fixe menu ($85/person). There is also a wine pairing for $29. The menu starts with options like lobster bisque and seared foie gras. The main course includes options like seafood bouillabaisse and filet mignon. Dessert includes chocolate profiteroles and a truffle goat cheese.
This Michelin-starred restaurant on 14th Street from acclaimed chef Ryan Ratino is serving a six-course prix-fixe dinner the entire weekend, Feb. 11-14. Starting at $185/person, the dinner can also include additional drink and caviar pairings. Starters include a smoked roe and squash tart, mains include Maine scallops and Wagyu beef, and dessert features “ambrosia” of coconut and passionfruit.
Award-winning Chef Danny Lledó, at his relatively new fine-dining Spanish and paella restaurant in Glover Park, has also earned a Michelin star. The indulgent tasting menu will include enhancements like A5 Kagoshima Wagyu, truffles, and much more ($325/person; wine pairing $225/person that includes a special toast).
Immigrant Food+ at Planet Word
Celebrate Galentine’s Day with Women Winemakers at Immigrant Food+, which is offering guests a week-long Galentine’s or Valentine’s offering from Feb. 9-16. The team invites guests to “celebrate with Women Winemakers” with a unique selection of wine flights, all of which feature female-produced wines from across the globe. The wine flight will also come with a Baked Brie Skillet for two. Bottles will be available for purchases as well.
The women-owned RAKO coffee spot in Arlington has created special Valentine’s Day gift sets in partnership with some of their favorite small businesses. Their Valentine’s Day gift set includes the best of three RĀKO direct-source coffees, a special edition Raspberry Cheesecake Chocolate bar from Harper Macaw, and a handcrafted soy candle from Poze Candle Co.
Schilling Canning Company
Visit the Navy Yard restaurant Shilling Canning Company on Saturday, Feb. 12 for an early and intimate celebration. Choose the four-course ($115) or eight-course ($155) option, for a menu that features braised pork maialino, lobster thermidor, butternut wellington and pear caramel layer cake.
Channeling Walter Mercado, Puerto Rican restaurant HYPERLINK “https://eatlafamosa.com/”La Famosa in Navy Yard will offer a special “Mucho Amor” carry-out package for Valentine’s Day. The $85 package includes a three-course dinner for two that features Puerto Rican style Porchetta with an herb mojo sauce, Tri-fungo (a mixture of mashed green plantains, yucca, and sweet plantains), and a Torta Chocolate, filled with dark chocolate, topped with caramel sauce and served over Vanilla Chantilly Cream.
The lively gay-owned Noma beer garden will host its annual Après Ski event all February long. The beer garden is transformed into a comfy ski lodge, complete with a selection of seasonal beers and cocktails, fire pits flanked by outdoor lounges, alpine-inspired art installations, and more. On Feb. 14, there will be a hot chocolate bar and a “Dating Game” event at 9pm.
Rasika Penn Quarter and its sister restaurant, Rasika West End will both offer a four-course, prix fixe menu for in-house and patio dining this Valentine’s Day. The menu is $90 per person, or $135 with wine pairings. The menu is only available on Monday, Feb. 14. Couples will begin with an amuse of Truffle Wada Lollipop with spiced potato, truffle shavings and coconut chutney. Entrées include Lobster Malai with lobster tail, coconut milk, bay leaf and red chili, and each tables receives a dessert sampler to share.
Other popular restaurants for Blade readers include Mintwood Place in Adams Morgan, Floriana on 17th Street, Tabard Inn in Dupont, and Café Berlin on Capitol Hill.
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