Dining
Digesting the Michelin Guide
Quirks and quibbles from the inaugural D.C. version


Patrick O’Connell of the Inn at Little Washington, one of the few outside-the-District restaurants to make the new Michelin Guide. (Washington Blade file photo by Joey DiGuglielmo)
It’s been a couple of weeks since the revered Michelin Guide to Washington’s restaurant scene was released, giving us time to drill down into its content and consider what we can learn from our first experience under the watchful eye of the Michelin Man and his anonymous cronies.
We’re fortunate to live in D.C. during a true restaurant renaissance, with new options opening up at a somewhat alarming rate (how many people can possibly eat out enough to support all these restaurants?), so the guide does offer a new view and can point us toward restaurants we might overlook simply because they are stalwarts in other neighborhoods (hello, Le Chat Noir and Kafe Leopold, we’re looking at you).
Plus, maybe we have one or two suggestions for Monsieur Michelin for future editions.
We really like brunch but the top restaurants don’t. Of the 107 restaurants profiled in the guide, 48 serve brunch, highlighting how popular brunch is here in D.C. However, of the 12 restaurants that received coveted stars, only one — Blue Duck Tavern — serves brunch. #priorities
We don’t have enough dim sum. The guide’s legend includes a symbol to denote a restaurant that serves dim sum and, sadly, there are only two restaurants on the list that do, only one of which, China Chilcano, is in Chinatown, er, Gallery Place, and it’s owned, ironically, by a Spaniard, José Andrés. As “Chinatown” is now practically devoid of Chinese food, this will come as no surprise, but it’s a sad fact nonetheless.
You don’t need a car to get a good meal in D.C. But you knew that. It’s ironic only because the Michelin Guide was created by a tire company in France in 1900, as a way to encourage drivers to get out and about in their cars (and, presumably, wear down their tires so they’d have to purchase new ones), yet visitors to the area are strongly encouraged to leave their cars at home. Of course, Uber drivers need tires and since you really can’t rely on Metro anymore to get to or from dinner, even car-free residents now need tires, albeit indirectly.
Michelin says there’s a “Near Southeast” neighborhood in D.C. that covers both Navy Yard and Capitol Hill. We beg to differ. While Navy Yard is occasionally referred to as Near Southeast, the Michelin Guide chose to lump it together with Capitol Hill on its map, calling the entire area Near Southeast. Since only two restaurants in the actual Navy Yard neighborhood made the cut, while seven did on Capitol Hill (including two restaurants that received stars, chef Aaron Silverman’s Rose’s Luxury and Pineapple and Pearls), it seems like Capitol Hill would have actually been the correct naming choice, and, thereby, less confusing to readers. Shaw residents will also notice that they apparently now live in Penn Quarter.
The only place worth going to for dinner outside city limits is 70 miles away. Don’t tell that to chefs Cathal Armstrong at Restaurant Eve in Alexandria or Jeremy Hoffman at Preserve in Annapolis. However, we’ll give it a pass simply because the only restaurant to land on the list from outside D.C. was the Inn at Little Washington, earning two stars for one of our favorite chefs, the witty and meticulous Patrick O’Connell. While some have agitated about the whys and wherefores of the Inn being awarded two stars instead of the full three, we think it’s just a matter of time — with only 13 three-star restaurants in the entire country, it’s reasonable to think that D.C. might not get any its first time out.
Reviewers don’t eat dessert. Or, we think they didn’t, because nary a mention of our favorite pastry chef, Alex Levin, made the guide’s review of Osteria Morini. Sure, the pasta is good, but we’d honestly start the meal with Levin’s tortinos and tartalettas if convention would let us. How is this man still single?
Apparently, Wolfgang Puck gets a pass. In one of the strangest entries in the guide, the review of the Source by Wolfgang Puck, located at the Newseum, states, “Wolfgang Puck manages to churn out reliably good food … The Pan-Asian bistro doesn’t capture headlines with every plate.” Um, OK. This is the Michelin Guide, right? While we get that there were some items (notably, the ever-elusive dim sum) that were noteworthy, there were several restaurants in D.C. that didn’t make the guide at all that do more than “churn out reliably good food,” making this entry a bit of a head-scratcher.
Vegetarians, this guide won’t help you. If you’re looking to find recommendations for plant-based meals, Michelin is of no use, although they do supply symbols to let us know who has the best sake and outdoor patios. We respectfully suggest adding a symbol — perhaps a tiny leaf — to help denote restaurants that offer plentiful vegetarian options; it’s a hot trend in our city and others, so we think it’s worth highlighting.
Dining
Annie’s celebrates 75th anniversary
Local institution a place of community and acceptance for LGBTQ patrons

George Katinas, a child of immigrants, opened Paramount Steakhouse in 1948 on the corner of 17th and Church streets, N.W. (where JR.’s is currently located). Three-quarters of a century later, the restaurant has changed its name and location, received accolades from the city and James Beard, and was deservedly feted last weekend. His son Paul now owns the restaurant, and runs Annie’s today with his daughter Georgia Katinas.
George ran the restaurant with his sisters, but it was a singular sister Annie who coaxed the restaurant into its status as a place of community and acceptance for the growing LGBTQ population in Dupont Circle. Katinas renamed the restaurant for her. When there were desperately few areas of safety, Annie’s stood out, and does still today.
Last Saturday, Annie’s pulled out all the stops for an all-day party under a brilliantly sunny sky. The clouds parted for the celebration, bringing together government officials, longtime customers, and families with new fans. A rainbow balloon arch perched across the 17th Street sidewalk.
Drag artists Kimberly Di’Nitta, Victoria Di’Nitta, Jayzeer Shantey, Genocide Abrasax and Candi H. Fuentes performed, Miss Gay Arlington greeted fans, and the Gay Men’s Chorus of Washington sang several renditions a capela for the crowd – including “Happy Birthday” over an enormous cake with sparkler candles (Annie’s has been a longtime supporter of the Gay Men’s Chorus).
“Taking a moment to sing happy birthday with Potomac Fever Group of Gay Men’s Chorus, this moment was so emotional,” said Georgia.
Anne’s set up a swag tent, selling collectible pint glasses featuring caricatures of the Annie’s family, like George and Annie herself. There was also a raffle, carnival snacks, and sidewalk games like a pie walk and martini race.
Vincent Slatt of Rainbow History Project was there to take it all in. Armed with a microphone, he interviewed partygoers to talk about why Annie’s was meaningful to them on the occasion of the anniversary.
In 2019, the James Beard Foundation announced that Annie’s Paramount Steakhouse, won the America’s Classic award for the Mid-Atlantic region (Ben’s Chili Bowl has also won this award). These awards are given “to locally owned restaurants that have timeless appeal and are beloved regionally for quality food that reflects the character of its community,” according to the James Beard website.
“Annie’s became home, and was there when there weren’t too many other opportunities or places to go,” says owner Paul Katinas (George’s son) in a previous interview. Annie’s also developed a strong relationship with the Washington Blade after the newspaper was founded in 1969.
After the outdoor festivities closed at 6 p.m., the party moved inside to Annie’s upper level for an appropriately festive afterparty.
Georgia notes that the anniversary “gave us a moment to reflect and think about how much has changed in 75 years, yet how much we’ve kept Annie’s the same. It’s a reason to celebrate and reflect. We’re so grateful for the support of our regulars.”
As for the next 25 years? Georgia says that the restaurant industry will be affected by the new tipped-wage law, but is adamant that Annie’s will remain.
“We will preserve what we have, honor our past, while making new memories.”

This year is already turning out to be a dynamic one for dining and nightlife. The effects of the pandemic, inflation, and the supply chain are still being felt, but there is a sense of optimism with a host of new openings for the first half of the year. And this season, of course, is often defined by cherry blossoms. Peak bloom is predicted for March 22-25, and festival activities begin on March 18. Enjoy all the pink, and read on for some dining highlights for the first few months of 2023.
Bazaar
Jose Andres triumphantly returned to the Old Post Office building in a coup for the celebrity restaurateur. The building, which is now a Waldorf Astoria hotel, most recently housed a hotel run by the organization of a disgraced former president. Andres had his eyes on the space for two decades and was set to open a restaurant there, but refused because of the new owner. Bazaar, which opened in February, serves sophisticated Spanish cuisine. It has locations in Los Angeles and Miami, plating specialty dishes like Iberico ham with caviar.
Uncaged Mimosas
It’s all flowers and bubbles at Uncaged Mimosas in Truxton Circle, which opened in February. Here, brunch is served every day of the week. Chef Damian Brown pours 20-plus kinds of mimosas, with flights available, plus frozen daiquiris. Neon signs, fake flowers and vines, and lots of color gives it a permanent party vibe. Brunch dishes include chicken and waffles, salmon and grits, and red velvet pancakes.
Ambar
Ambar, one of the only all-you-can-eat dinner restaurants in the region, is opening its second spot in D.C. proper and third in the area. The new two-story restaurant, which opened March 6, sits in Shaw across from Dacha. Owner Ivan Iricanin brings in dishes from across the Balkans, like hearty country slow-cooked dishes from the interior, to seafood specialties from the Mediterranean. There are more than 60 bottles of wine from the Balkans, plus fruit-infused rakia, the popular Balkan spirit. Ambar offers unlimited prix-fixe brunch, lunch, and dinner menus, with optional drink pairings at brunch and dinner.
Owl Room
The U Street Corridor welcomes this new nightlife destination in the former Marvin space on March 10. Run by Marvin owner Eric Hilton and others, Owl Room has transformed the spot into more of a music and concert venue, with a dance floor and stage that will feature live music and DJ sets. The upstairs has a more relaxed patio for cocktails.
Mi Vida
Gay-owned KNEAD Hospitality + Design continues to expand its Mexican hit restaurant, Mi Vida, with a new outpost set to open in April in Penn Quarter. This will be the largest Mi Vida to date, boasting a huge 10,000-square-foot space. Design flourishes include the iconic tree of life that has been showcased at all three locations, as well as a new custom rope art installation by Mexican artisans.
Alfresco
On the southern end of Adams Morgan, Alfresco is a new “American tap and grill” restaurant from the owners of Lauriol Plaza, located just down 18th Street. The 300-plus seat restaurant is set to open in April. Its menu is a distinct departure from Lauriol’s Mexican food; this one serves sandwiches, pizza, pasta, salads, and steaks. True to its name, there is a central courtyard with a retractable pergola roof, as well as two other outdoor patio seating spaces.
Van Leeuwen
New York import Van Leeuwen Ice Cream and its super premium brand of dessert is opening three shops in the next few months: Union Market (418 Morse St. NE), Adams Morgan (2421 18th St. NW), and Georgetown (3245 Prospect St. NW). Founded in 2008 as a New York City ice cream truck, Van Leeuwen is known for both traditional and vegan ice creams. Unique flavors include mac ’n cheese and honeycomb. These are its first shops in D.C., though there are more than 20 across the country.
The Square
The Square (1850 K St.) will be D.C.’s newest food market, opening later this year. The Square is slated to open in 2023 within International Square, and will feature a collection of more than 15 artisanal food vendors, a full-service restaurant and bar, an expansive bar in the central atrium, and outdoor dining seating, plus retail. Richie Brandenburg and Rubén García co-founded The Square, both well-established chefs, bring globally inspired food to the expansive food hall.
Bunker
While not falling into the food sphere, the opening of Bunker has upended nightlife destinations for the LGBTQ community in D.C. Kinetic Productions owners Zach Renovatés and Jesus Quispe debuted the subterranean spot in late February, bringing in local and national DJs, dancers, drag queens, and entertainment. The bar/club is open Thursday-Sunday, playing different music genres each night.
Dining
D.C. restaurants offer something for everyone this Valentine’s Day
From romantic prix-fixe options to a ‘single AF mixer’

Whatever Valentine’s Day means to you, there are plenty of places around D.C. for an excellent prix-fixe dinner or raging party with pals/gals/side pieces. Below are just a few options for what’s available:
Couple Options
Hot new French restaurant L’Ardente and its infamous 40-layer lasagne is offering an extended Valentine’s Day dinner, from Friday, Feb. 10, through Tuesday, Feb. 14. Couples can choose from the regular menu or a five-course tasting menu ($250 for two), which includes passion fruit caviar martinis.
Sababa Cleveland Park will serve a four-course, prix-fixe menu for two on Feb. 14. The menu ($120 for two) includes beet hummus, heart of palm salad, and a date tahini tart (and lots of romance-themed puns).
Cafe Riggs, in the Riggs Hotel, is serving not just a dessert special, but also a hotel package. Hotel guests can enjoy a Valentine’s Brunch in Bed enhancement with the option to a build-your-own mimosa flight or coffee while enjoying a Petit Déjeuner (French continental breakfast) in your room. Reservations are available through OpenTable.
Lyle’s, in the Lyle Hotel, will offer a prix-fixe dinner menu at $85 per person that will be available the weekend before and after Valentine’s Day as well as on the holiday. Reservations are available through OpenTable.
Ellington Park Bistro, in the St. Gregory Hotel, is offering a Valentine’s Day menu as well as the regular a la carte menu. The menu will highlight sweet flavors, and includes dishes such as Butternut Squash Soup, Sweet Shrimp Wontons, and Raspberry and White Chocolate. Reservations available through OpenTable.
The Fairmont Georgetown is offering a decadent Valentine’s Afternoon Tea on Feb. 11, 12, and 14 inside overlooking the courtyard, with petit fours, scones, and savory sandwiches like an oak-smoked cheddar and spiced pear chutney. Tea is served from 1-4 p.m. ($75 per person), with the option to add a glass of G.H. Mumm Champagne.
Nicoletta Italian Kitchen will host a Valentine’s Day Pizza Class on Feb. 11, teaching everyone to make their own heart-shaped pie, while enjoying arancini and wine. And for those looking for something a little less hands-on, Nicoletta will offer a special Valentine’s Day menu on Feb. 14, complete with heart-shaped pizzas (made by the chef this time), as well as three special dishes – a clam appetizer, calzone, and lobster raviolo.
Waldorf Astoria Washington DC in the storied and renamed Old Post Office has an old-school option to “pen letters of love over dinner to share with a special someone.” Valentine’s Day guests will all receive a custom piece of stationary at their time of seating in addition to a menu of inventive dishes with a selection of elevated ingredients. Reservations can be made on SevenRooms.
Immigrant Food+ is serving a three-course menu for two, with options for vegetarian and pescatarian guests. There’s also a featured wine list from all female growers/winemakers including a special Galentine’s Day Flight of a Brut, white, and red.
Non-Couple Options
Brookland’s Finest Bar & Kitchen will offer a special “Salty & Bitter” bar menu over Valentine’s Day weekend, complete with salty snacks and bitter beverages. Snacks include chicken fingers and pretzel bites with truffle oil; drinks include espresso martinis and black Manhattans.
El Techo is throwing a Broken Hearts Club this Valentine’s Day (2/14). The tropical oasis rooftop is “helping single guests nurse their wounds” with a free shot of tequila for everyone who goes by on Feb. 14. It’s also offering a Taco Tuesday deal, which features three tacos and choice of a margarita or beer for $22.
Washingtonians that find themselves ready to mingle this year can head to Fight Club’s Anti-Commitment Ball on Saturday, Feb. 11. The party, from 8 p.m.-1 a.m., will feature DJ Daniel Biltmore spinning live tunes, food/drink specials, and Jell-O shots. Tickets not required. Food and drink items available a la carte.
The National Union Building at 918 F St. is bringing out its “certified fun sommelier” for a wine tasting event. Two sessions (Feb. 12 and Feb 13, both 6:30 p.m.) offer six wines, from fizzy to deep, dark red. Bottles will be available for purchase to take home. Tickets are $35-$45 through Eventbrite.
NoMa’s WunderGarten is hosting a “Nice Try Cupid Anti-Valentine’s Day Single AF Mixer” on Feb. 14, 7-11 p.m. Tickets are free but reservations recommended via Eventbrite.
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