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Rehoboth’s Sundance party returns this weekend

Dance, auction to be held in memory of co-founder Steve Elkins

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Sundance 2018, gay news, Washington Blade

The Sundance dance party is a Rehoboth Beach Labor Day tradition. (Washington Blade photo by Daniel Truitt)

Sundance 2018

 

Rainbow XXXI: In the Name of Love

 

Auction: Saturday, Sept. 1

 

7-10 p.m.

 

Dance: Sunday, Sept. 2

 

7 p.m.-2 a.m.

 

$80 for both events or $45 for one

 

Rehoboth Beach Convention Center

 

229 Rehoboth Ave.

 

Rehoboth Beach, Del.

 

302-227-5620

Sundance, the annual CAMP Rehoboth Labor Day weekend tradition, will be somewhat bittersweet this year.

Sundance 2018: Rainbow XXXI: In the Name of Love” will be held this weekend to benefit CAMP Rehoboth in memory of the late Steve Elkins, who died in March from lymphoma. He was 67.

Steve Elkins, CAMP Rehoboth, gay news, Washington Blade

The late Steve Elkins (left) with husband Murray Archibald. The two founded Sundance more than 30 years ago. Elkins died in March. (Washington Blade file photo by Michael Key)

Sundance was created by CAMP Rehoboth founders Elkins and his husband Murray Archibald in response to the AIDS crisis in the 1980s. Archibald had been Elkins’ husband and partner for 40 years at the time of Elkins’ death. They decided to make Sundance a dance party with the purpose of raising money for AIDS charities. Archibald said in an article of a recent issue of Letters from CAMP Rehoboth that many people were dying and there was no treatment for AIDS at the time.

“It was 1988. We were losing friends left and right. We were still living in New York in those days but spending a lot of time down here,” Archibald says. “It was terrible, and we wanted to do something. It was our 10th anniversary party, Steve and mine, and everybody in our house down here wanted to do something. And I said, well, we wanted to make it a fundraiser. We did a lot of events actually back then — dance events — so we thought that would be a great way to make money.”

The Sundance Auction will be held on Saturday, Sept. 1 with an open bar, food by Plate Catering, music by Stephen Strasser and silent and live auctions. On Sunday, Sept. 2, there will be a dance party from 7 p.m.-2 a.m. with an open bar, Joe Gauthreaux as DJ and special guest Studio 54/Saint DJ Robbie Leslie. Both events will be held at the Rehoboth Beach Convention Center.

There was no auction the first year; it was added the second year. Initially, the auction happened right before the dance, but a couple years later, the auction and dance were separated into different events. Sundance has always been held on Labor Day weekend and has become a tradition.

Sundance has received an increasing amount of support and sponsorship over the years, raising more than $2 million overall.

“It’s grown. It just keeps growing. It has for years,” Archibald says. “We have tremendous community support for it. I think its growth is probably the main thing and the support that it gets. The way we’ve raised money has changed. For a good while, it was only AIDS work, and a lot of it went to Sussex County AIDS Council and helped them stay afloat.”

Archibald says when CAMP got started, its volunteers quickly began expanding AIDS services they were doing and started splitting the money raised from Sundance between CAMP and the Sussex County AIDS Council. By the time the Sussex County AIDS Council closed, CAMP was doing a lot of AIDS work and other kinds of health-related work. The money raised from Sundance has been used for CAMP Rehoboth for years now. Archibald said Sundance raised $6,000 its first year and now raises around $120,000-125,000 per year.

Elkins and Archibald have advocated for LGBT rights in Rehoboth for decades. There was tension between the gay and straight communities in the late ‘80s into the early ‘90s, with one group in town that started a campaign with bumper stickers that read, “Keep Rehoboth A Family Town.” In response, Elkins and Archibald decided to open CAMP Rehoboth, looking to promote inclusion for all.

“During the ‘80s, Rehoboth had grown tremendously as a gay resort. Gay people had been coming here for a long time,” Archibald says. “During that time, there was the Strand, which was controversial because of its location. It was open for seven years. It was a huge club. The Renegade was just outside of town. Those were two big dance clubs, and we had people coming, the crowds had gotten bigger. Everything had changed in that decade.”

Elkins and Archibald wanted to ease stress and build bridges. They developed CAMP Rehoboth with the mindset that it would work within the community, making the decision to not be “in your face” or “radical.” They wanted to work with people. Elkins and Archibald started using the language of making Rehoboth a place with “room for all.” Archibald said that when Elkins died earlier this year, the press was using that language to describe CAMP Rehoboth, showing that it worked.

The influence that Elkins and Archibald have had over the years can be seen on a statewide level, with then-Gov. Jack Markell adding sexual orientation to Delaware’s anti-discrimination law in 2009, which was signed by Markell at CAMP Rehoboth on Elkins’ birthday. Additionally, Elkins and the current president of the CAMP Rehoboth Board of Directors, Chris Beagle, testified in support of the legalization of civil unions in Delaware in 2011.

On July 1, 2013, Beagle and his husband, Eric Engelhart, decided to have their wedding ceremony at the CAMP Rehoboth Community Center because they wanted to make the occasion a celebration for the entire community. Beagle and Engelhart were selected to be the first same-sex couple to marry in Sussex County by then Sussex County Justice of the Peace, John Brady, after the legalization of same-sex marriage in Delaware.

“I gave several press interviews immediately after Steve’s passing in March, and in virtually every one of them I mentioned that I’ve had many proud moments representing CAMP Rehoboth over the years here on the board,” Beagle says. “Next to marrying my husband, Eric Engelhart, on the stage of the CAMP Community Center on July 1, 2013, my other proudest moment was testifying with Steve Elkins for the civil union legislation in 2011. He was a mentor to me in many ways, and he will always have a very special place in my heart for the leadership and difference he made in my life, and countless others. So many of us wouldn’t enjoy the life we have here today, and the protections we’re entitled too, if not for Steve Elkins and Murray Archibald.”

Beagle began volunteering for Sundance in 2006, making this his 13th year helping put it together. He has mostly worked with the decor crew and set-up team, along with Archibald and other key volunteers, many of whom have been helping Archibald for 20 years or more. Beagle also co-founded the Sundance 5k in 2010.

“It amazes us every year how Murray is able to create a visual masterpiece celebrating the particular theme of the year,” Beagle says. “A true camaraderie has evolved over these many years, and it has become a type of family reunion for many of us, something we all cherish very much. And nothing beats the sense of gratification we all share as the auction doors open at 7 p.m. The crowds start pouring in and we see the look of awe and amazement in their faces. At that moment, we know we’ve done good work.”

Natalie Moss began volunteering at CAMP Rehoboth in 1991. Moss has served as treasurer for both CAMP Rehoboth and the CAMP Rehoboth Community Center Project. She is also auction co-chair of Sundance and has been helping with the event for 28 years.

“We send out letters to all the businesses and ask them for donations. Then, we have callers and picker uppers that follow up on the letters and run around town to pick the stuff up,” Moss says. “We have a lot of individual people, as well as businesses, that give us stuff.”

Once the donations for the auction are brought to CAMP, Moss goes through them and lists them on spreadsheets. Once that’s done, the donations are brought over to the convention center where another team of volunteers displays them on the floor. Moss oversees the team that tallies the auction sheets. CAMP made the decision to use old-fashioned bid sheets because they want people to enjoy themselves and to not take away from their experience by them looking at their phones trying to bid on something.

“We get some really, really fun stuff. A lot of quirky things, games, books, glassware,” Moss says. “And the businesses give us gift certificates to restaurants — gift certificates for dinners and lunches and breakfast. Once it’s displayed, it looks beautiful.”

The Sundance auction will also have artwork, jewelry and a 60-inch TV among other things that will be up for bid. Moss says Sundance all comes together with the help of about 200 volunteers and the result has the appearance of a “fabulous-looking disco.”

The Sundance auction started 30 years ago. Organizers have intentionally kept it low tech — all the bidding takes place with paper and pen. (Photo courtesy CAMP Rehoboth)

Moss says working with Elkins was great and that everyone on the Sundance team had their role. She said Elkins did a lot behind the scenes. Elkins would run out and get whatever the Sundance team needed. He would negotiate with the liquor store to get more tonic and mixes, order lunches, pick up the lunches and did some computer work, which included printing pictures for the live auction. Moss said Elkins did everything to make sure the volunteers were taken care of.

“I used to be down here a lot, like I am now, and I’d have the music on. He was a very good singer, he had a very good voice. He used to sing in church. He would come down here and sing to me all the time, so I miss that,” Moss says. “So, Murray came in the other day. I said, ‘Are you going to sing to me?’ and he said, ‘No, you don’t want me to sing to you.’”

Monica Parr, who serves as CAMP Rehoboth’s administrative coordinator, is helping organize Sundance for her fourth year. She is managing the volunteers needed for the front-end production. Parr is working alongside Archibald taking over some of Elkins’ tasks.

“It was a joy to work with Steve. I knew Steve Elkins and Murray Archibald long before I began working at CAMP Rehoboth. I was a volunteer for Sundance almost from the beginning,” Parr says. “Steve was one of a kind. He was the kindest and most generous man you would ever meet. He would make sure that everyone felt welcome at CAMP, and at any event that CAMP Rehoboth sponsored. He will be truly missed.”

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Looking back at 50 years of Pride in D.C

Washington Blade’s unique archives chronicle highs, lows of our movement

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Gay Pride Day 1976 (Washington Blade archive photo)

To celebrate the 50th anniversary of LGBTQ Pride in Washington, D.C., the Washington Blade team combed our archives and put together a glossy magazine showcasing five decades of celebrations in the city. Below is a sampling of images from the magazine but be sure to find a print copy starting this week.

D.C.’s Different Drummers march in the 2006 Capital Pride Parade. (Washington Blade archive photo by Adam Cuthbert)

The magazine is being distributed now and is complimentary. You can find copies at LGBTQ bars and restaurants across the city. Or visit the Blade booth at the Pride festival on June 7 and 8 where we will distribute copies. 

Thank you to our advertisers and sponsors, whose support has enabled us to distribute the magazine free of charge. And thanks to our dedicated team at the Blade, especially Photo Editor Michael Key, who spent many hours searching the archives for the best images, many of which are unique to the Blade and cannot be found elsewhere. And thanks to our dynamic production team of Meaghan Juba, who designed the magazine, and Phil Rockstroh who managed the process. Stephen Rutgers and Brian Pitts handled sales and marketing and staff writers Lou Chibbaro Jr., Christopher Kane, Michael K. Lavers, Joe Reberkenny along with freelancer and former Blade staffer Joey DiGuglielmo wrote the essays. 

The 1995 Lesbian and Gay Freedom Festival was held on Freedom Plaza on June 18. (Washington Blade archive photo by Clint Steib)

The magazine represents more than 50 years of hard work by countless reporters, editors, advertising sales reps, photographers, and other media professionals who have brought you the Washington Blade since 1969.

We hope you enjoy the magazine and keep it as a reminder of all the many ups and downs our local LGBTQ community has experienced over the past 50 years.

I hope you will consider supporting our vital mission by becoming a Blade member today. At a time when reliable, accurate LGBTQ news is more essential than ever, your contribution helps make it possible. With a monthly gift starting at just $7, you’ll ensure that the Blade remains a trusted, free resource for the community — now and for years to come. Click here to help fund LGBTQ journalism.

The D.C. Black Gay Men & Women’s Community Conference table at Gay Pride Day in 1978. (Washington Blade archive photo by Jim Marks)
A scene from 1985 Gay and Lesbian Pride Day. (Washington Blade archive photo by Doug Hinckle)
A scene from the 1988 Gay and Lesbian Pride Day. (Washington Blade archive photo by Doug Hinckle)
A scene from the Capital Pride Block Party in 2018. (Washington Blade photo by Daniel Truitt)
Keke Palmer performs at the 2024 Capital Pride Festival. (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)
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In stressful times, escape to Rehoboth Beach

Here’s what’s new in D.C.’s favorite beach town for 2025

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Rehoboth Beach is ready to welcome visitors for the 2025 season. (Washington Blade photo by Daniel Truitt)

At last, after an uncharacteristically cold and snowy winter, another Rehoboth Beach season is upon us. I have been going to Rehoboth Beach since 1984, and it was the first place I went where people only knew me as a gay man. It was the year I came out. It was a summer community back then. Today it really is an exciting year-round community. But it’s still the summer season when Rehoboth shines, and when the businesses make most of their money. 

The summer brings out tens of thousands of tourists, from day-trippers, to those with second homes at the beach. Everyone comes to the beach for the sun and sand, food, and drink. Some like to relax, others to party, and you can do both in Rehoboth Beach, Del. 

Stop by CAMP Rehoboth, the LGBTQ community center on Baltimore Avenue, to get the latest updates on what is happening. CAMP sponsors Sunfestival each Labor Day weekend, and a huge block party on Baltimore Avenue in October. They train the Rehoboth Beach police on how to work with the LGBTQ community, and have all kinds of special and regularly scheduled events. Pick up a copy of their publication, Letters, which is distributed around town. 

I asked Kim Leisey, CAMP’s executive director, for her thoughts, and she said, CAMP Rehoboth looks forward to welcoming our friends and visitors to Rehoboth Beach. We are a safe space for our community and will be sponsoring social opportunities, art receptions, concerts, and art exhibits, throughout the summer. If you are planning a wedding, shower, reception, or business meeting, our beautiful atrium is available for rental. We look forward to a summer of solidarity and fun.”  While at CAMP stop in the courtyard at a favorite place of mine, Loris Oy Vey! Café, and tryher famous chicken salad.

There’s something for everyone at the beach, from walking the boardwalk and eating Thrashers fries, to visiting Funland, or playing a game of miniature golf. Or head to some of the world-class restaurants like Drift, Eden, Blue Moon, or Back Porch.  

Some random bits on the summer 2025 season. Prices are going up like everywhere else. Your parking meter will cost you $4 an hour. Meters are in effect May 15-Sept. 15. Parking permits for all the non-metered spaces in town are also expensive. Transferable permits are $365,non-transferable $295, or after Aug. 1 if you only come for the end of summer, it’s $165. Detailed information is available on the town’s website.

Rehoboth lost one of its best restaurant this off-season, JAM, but Freddie’s Beach Bar and Restaurant is open for its fourth season. Owner Freddie Lutz told the Blade, “We are looking forward to a fabulous season. Freddie’s has a dance floor and is the only music video bar in town.” There is also live entertainment, karaoke, and Freddie’s Follies drag show Friday nights. 

Magnolia Applebottom performs at Freddie’s Beach Bar in Rehoboth Beach, Del. on May 12. (Washington Blade photo by Daniel Truitt)

My favorite happy hour bar is Aqua Grill, which has reopened for the season. I recommend taking advantage of their great Tuesday Taco night, and Thursday burger night. Then there is The Pines and Top of the Pines. Bob Suppies of Second Block Hospitality told me, “Come, relax, and play. We are ready! I have been spending summers here since the mid-90’s, and Rehoboth Beach seems to age like a fine wine. Between the new, and favorite restaurants opening back up, the shops bursting with incredible finds, and all the great LGBTQ+ bars to entertain everyone, nowhere beats the Delaware beaches this summer.” 

Head down the block on Baltimore Avenue and you get to La Fable restaurant. Go all the way to the beach and you will see the new lifeguard station, which is slated to open later this month. Also, demolition of the old hotel and north boardwalk Grotto Pizza has happened. The site will become a new four-story, 60-room hotel, with ground level retail space. 

Then join me at my favorite morning place at the beach, The Coffee Mill, in the mews between Rehoboth and Baltimore Avenues, open every morning at 7 a.m. Owners Mel and Bob also have the Mill Creamery, the ice cream parlor in the mews, and Brashhh! on 1st street, where Mel sells his own clothing line, called FEARLESS! Then there is the ever-popular Purple Parrot, celebrating its 26th year, now with new owners Tyler Townsend and Drew Mitchell, who welcome you to their iconic place. It has only gotten better. If you head farther down Rehoboth Avenue you will find the Summer House with its upscale Libation Room, and a nice garden looking out on Rehoboth Avenue. Also on Rehoboth Avenue is Gidgets Gadgets owned by the fabulous Steve Fallon. With the renewed interest in vinyl records you may want to stop in at Extended Play

Then there is the always busy and fun, Diegos Bar and Nightclub. Joe Zuber of Diego’s told the Blade, “Get ready for a great gay ole time in Rehoboth Beach. Plenty of entertainment, dancing and fun as we seem to be the next Stonewall generation with this newest administration. Each election brings its concerns about how our gay community will be affected. Come to Rehoboth Beach to escape this summer season!” 

If you are in town for Sunday happy hour, make sure to stop there to hear the talented Pamala Stanley who is celebrating her 20th season entertaining in Rehoboth.And on Mondays, Stanley plays Broadway and other classics on the piano at Diego’s.

If you are looking for culture Rehoboth has some of that as well. There is the Clear Space Theatre on Baltimore Avenue. Rumors abound that Clear Space will move out of town. But I can’t believe the commissioners and mayor would be dumb enough to let that happen. This year’s shows include “Spring Awakening,” “Buyer + Cellar,” “Hairspray,” “Beautiful: The Carole King Musical,” and “RENT.”Tickets sell fast so I suggest you book early and they are available online. Then mark your calendars for Saturday, July 19 for Rehoboth Beach Pride 2025 at the Rehoboth Beach Convention Center.

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention some of the other fine restaurants and clubs in town. Just a reminder, during season you often need dinner reservations. Come to the beach often enough, and you can try them all: Café Azafran, Dos Locos, Goolee’s Grille, Rigby’s, Frank and Louie’s, Above the Dunes, Mariachi, and Henlopen City Oyster House, and Red, White & Basil. And take a short drive to Dewey for breakfast or lunch at the Starboard; popular bartender Doug Moore (winner of the Blade’s Best Rehoboth-Area Bartender 2024 award) holds court at one of the inside bars, which has become a de facto gay bar on Saturdays. 

One major development in the local dining scene last summer was the purchase of the Big Fish Restaurant Group by Baltimore-based Atlas Restaurant Group. Nearly a year later, not much has changed at the many Big Fish restaurants, although many locals are hoping for a renovation of Obie’s along with a gay night at the ocean-front bar/restaurant. 

These are only a few of the fantastic places to eat and drink at the beach. Remember, book your reservations for hotels and restaurants, early. Rehoboth is a happening place and gets very busy. 

We are living in stressful times. A visit to Rehoboth is a nice way to escape them for a while. Take the time to destress, enjoy the sun and sand. Take a stroll on the boardwalk and listen to the sound of the ocean, and people having fun. Enjoy good times, good food, good friends, and remember that life can still be good. Recharge your batteries for the rest of the year, by enjoying some summer fun in Rehoboth Beach. 

(Washington Blade photo by Daniel Truitt)
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Down to shuck! 

Oyster farmers Jordan Nally and fiancé Jimmy Kane on caring for Delaware’s waters — and sharing something special with customers

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Jordan Nally shows off one of his newly harvested oysters on the dock in Rehoboth. (Blade photo by Will Freshwater)

Although I didn’t come out to my family until my 20s, they should have seen the signs. During one of our annual trips to Indian Shores Beach in Florida, my parents splurged on a Polynesian dining adventure at the only tourist spot in town – Tiki Gardens. While waiting for our table, my sisters found a saltwater tank lined with oysters. For what felt like a fortune to an eight-year-old, a fisherman would shuck a pair and sift through the contents. Dressed in my floral Hawaiian shirt, my excitement turned to desperation when both of my sisters’ oysters revealed pearls. After much begging, my father reluctantly paid to have the small, oddly shaped gems mounted in rings. Watching my sisters flaunt their new jewelry, I seethed with envy and secretly vowed to return one day to claim my own treasure from the sea.

Nearly 50 years later, I’m a full-time resident of Rehoboth Beach, Del. It’s the Atlantic Ocean, not the Gulf of Mexico, but it’s close enough to Florida for me. As a local in a small coastal town, I’m keenly interested in how entrepreneurs are capitalizing on the growing tourism industry with innovative business ideas, so when I stumble across an Instagram page featuring two gay oyster farmers, Jordan Nally and his fiancé Jimmy Kane operating just a few miles away on Rehoboth Bay, my curiosity is piqued. After liking all the posts on the page, I slip into their DMs and ask whether we can meet for an interview. I’m delighted and a little nervous when they agree and invite me out on the boat to tour the farm and talk shellfish. Since everything I know about oysters came from a restaurant menu, I did some research.

Less than a week later, I arrive at the marina on Collins Avenue in Dewey on a picture-perfect morning in early May. Nally is waiting by his pickup truck, casually chatting up a couple of tourists. He’s a Delaware native and looks every bit like an oyster farmer in a long-sleeve, sweat-wicking shirt, PVC-coated shorts, and a branded baseball cap for sun protection. That’s all the more surprising given that Nally spent more than a decade working for JPMorgan Chase and had run for election to the Delaware House of Representatives in 2020.

As a good reporter, I’ve done my research: I know that the Inland Bays (made up of Rehoboth, Indian River, and Little Assawoman Bays) were once prolific oyster producers, with peak annual harvests reaching up to two million bushels. However, by the mid-20th century, overharvesting and a parasitic fungus drastically reduced the oyster populations. By 1960, the annual harvest had plummeted to just 49,000 bushels, marking a low point for the industry. In 2013, former Gov. Jack Markell signed legislation, and the commercial shellfish industry was reborn.

As we unload the flatbed of his EV pickup truck and transport the contents to the waiting boat, a retrofitted pontoon, “The Mullet,” Nally fills me in on his origin story. He came up with the idea to dive into aquaculture while he was quarantined in a hotel in Vermont with nothing but a TV and a local magazine with a cover story on oyster farming. He pitched the idea to his partner Jimmy Kane over the phone, and together they started planning how to make it happen. Nally jokes that what began as a fun “COVID project” quickly bloomed into a thriving business: “Some people did sourdough starter, but we decided to start an oyster farm.” 

Although Kane is always there to lend a helping hand, Nally is the one who’s usually out tending the farm. Still, Nally stresses that Kane plays a critical support role: “He’s in charge of merchandising, running sales at the market, and grounding me when I have too many wild ideas.”

In April 2023, the couple planted their first batch of “oyster babies,” provided by the hatchery at the University of Delaware. At the time, they were still living full time in Wilmington, so the first year on the farm meant long drives, managing their day jobs from the car, launching the boat, and working for hours out on the bay before heading back home. Eventually, the capital investment and 14-hour days paid off; now, just two years later, they have 50 floating bags, each holding about 2,000 oysters.  

Out on the open water, we see a half-dozen other oyster farms off in the distance. Despite the great weather, we’re the only boat on the bay. Standing confidently at the helm with his eyes fixed on the horizon, Nally gives me a quick biology tutorial on how oysters make it from the bay to the bar. Growers trigger spawning by adjusting water conditions to mimic spring, then feed the larvae specialized algae. After two to three weeks, the larvae develop an “eyespot” and are transferred to grow-out areas on the seabed or suspended bags. Oysters generally reach market size in 18 to 36 months, but the ideal conditions in Rehoboth Bay cut that time down to less than six months.

oysters, gay news, Washington Blade
Jordan Nally shows off a freshly shucked oyster from his farm in Rehoboth. (Blade photo by Will Freshwater)

Nally opens the throttle and, in less time than I expected, we reach the place where the magic happens – the acre of water designated for Nancy James Oysters. Unconventional and bordering on camp, the couple came up with the moniker to honor their late parents. When I ask Nally to explain why they’ve stuck with the venture, his answer, like the name of their business, is personal: “Every single day, we learn something new. And every single oyster reminds us why we started: to grow sustainably, care deeply for our waters, and share something truly special with our customers.”

As we arrive at the oyster farm, Nally cuts the engines and explains the innovative farming technique Nancy James uses to grow its oysters; picture a series of mesh bags, buoyed by floats, and attached to a main line stretching across a tract of water and anchored at both ends. Growing oysters at the water’s surface allows Nally and Kane to capitalize on natural currents and food availability, resulting in faster growth rates and enhanced flavor profiles. The only downside to this growing technique is that the guys never find pearls because the insides of their oysters are cleaner than those of the bottom dwellers.

The farm is directly across from Bird Island, and the cacophony of 10,000 birds is even louder than the whirring sound from the propellers. After anchoring the boat, Nally casually strips down to his bathing suit and surf shoes and jumps into the 60-degree water without a second thought. It’s the ultimate cold plunge, but if he feels the cold, he doesn’t show it; there’s too much work to do. 

“You ready to get dirty?” 

The waters of Rehoboth Bay may be pristine, but Nally’s question and smirking grin reinforce the message that oyster farming is a messy business. The first order of the day is to change out the older bags to address biofouling — the attachment of seaweed and algae that can affect the health and inhibit growth of new oysters. Nally selects three gnarly bags and hauls them over to the boat. I pull one onto the deck. Once he’s back on board, we empty the first bag onto the cleaning table, and I feel my stomach lurch. Mixed in with small crabs and tiny shrimp, the oysters are covered in muck. Suddenly, I’m glad to be wearing a pair of rubber gloves. 

Following instructions, I start sorting; chefs prefer smaller oysters with well-shaped shells. Trying not to get distracted by Nally’s stories and the ravenous flock of waiting sea birds floating above me, I count out four batches of 100 oysters for same-day delivery. Nally and Kane care about how their oysters taste and look. The boat has a portable generator, sump pump, and pressure washer to clean the shells thoroughly. Always ready to quote DNREC requirements scripture and verse, Nally explains that he has to use approved water, and the easiest way is to clean them with water from where they’re growing. 

When I ask if it’s hard to comply with the federal and state requirements, like logging the exact time oysters go in and come out of the water, Nally shrugs and offers a surprisingly pragmatic answer: “Everyone on the bay is aware of safety and works together to comply. If anyone gets sick from shellfish, they don’t care where it came from; it will affect all of us. When you are eating oysters in Delaware that came from Delaware, I feel really confident about safety.”

After harvesting and storing the oysters on ice, Nally checks the currents and wind direction before jumping back into the water; he regularly inspects the bags, floats, securing lines, and clips to ensure everything is in working order. As the oysters grow, Nally and Kane move them into bags with progressively larger mesh sizes and mark each with color-coded zip ties to indicate their growth stage. As they mature, the oysters are thinned out and spread across more bags to prevent overcrowding. It’s hard work, but at the end of the day, the two men are proud of what they’ve built together.

Nally explains that the warm temperatures, sandy bottoms, and high salinity of Rehoboth Bay are ideal. Still, not all farm sites are created equal: “The water here tastes different than the water on that side of the bay. It’s the fetch you’re getting from waves, all the swell, and the current. We have a really strong current on this side, and that side doesn’t, so they’re not as salty.”

Although Rehoboth Bay is known for its shallow depths and typically calm waters, aquafarming is still risky. Nally recalled a harrowing incident last winter when his lines got tangled in the boat’s propeller. Rough weather and a hefty chop made it hard to keep the boat steady. Determined to free the line, he put on his wetsuit and plunged into the frigid water. As a safety measure, he shared his location via iPhone with Kane and told him that if the location stopped moving, Nally was in the water and Kane should call the Coast Guard. 

On another occasion, Nally slipped on a wet deck and hit his head — an accident reminiscent of what happened to poor Jennifer Coolidge in “White Lotus.” Fortunately, he fell into the boat rather than overboard. He takes no chances now, wearing a special life vest that automatically inflates if he falls into the bay.

Nally and Kane are the only local farmers offering premium catering services, bringing the freshest oysters and top-notch shuckers to events such as weddings and birthday parties. Nancy James Oysters can also be enjoyed at local restaurants, including Drift Seafood & Raw Bar and Lewes Oyster House. You can find them in person at the Bethany Farmers Market and the Historic Lewes Farmers Market. This summer, the couple will be shucking oysters live every Sunday afternoon at Aqua Bar & Grill. Oysters are always available for purchase online at nancyjamesoysters.com

It’s another beautiful day when I make the short trip to town and park just outside Drift on Baltimore Avenue. Grabbing an empty seat at the outside bar window, I order without looking at the menu (at Drift, ask for the “Rehoboth Rose” oyster). In less time than it takes to check my phone, there are a dozen premium oysters in front of me — bedded in a tray of crushed ice, just waiting to be devoured. 

oysters, gay news, Washington Blade
Chef Zane Rego of Drift in Rehoboth Beach presents a dozen local oysters. (Blade photo by Will Freshwater)

Savoring the poetry of the presentation, I lift a shell to my mouth and slurp down the meat in one swallow. The taste is pure Delaware. Tom Wiswell, the former executive chef at Drift, describes it best: “It reminds me of being a kid at Rehoboth Beach and like a wave splashing you in the face. It’s fresh, briny, and salty.”  

As I enjoy a swallow of a good glass of Cava and reach for another oyster, I realize why these exotic delicacies were dubbed “white gold.” Nearly a half-century older and wiser than that kid in the Hawaiian shirt at Tiki Gardens, I’ve finally realized that the hidden treasure inside the oyster was never the pearl.

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