Dining
LGBT-owned Denizens Brewery challenges straight bro beer culture
It’s a family affair for lesbian couple and brother-in-law with Silver Spring business


From left are Emily Bruno, Jeff Ramirez and Julie Verratti, co-owners of Denizens Brewery. (Photo courtesy Denizens)
Washington residents need not be reminded that long nights, pizza and beer are staples of the political campaign lifestyle.
When Julie Verratti and her wife, Emily Bruno, left their campaign lives in Boston and moved to Washington a decade ago, they just couldn’t quite quit the political lifestyle — or the beer part.
So in 2014, the couple and their brewmaster brother-in-law Jeff Ramirez opened Denizens Brewery, the only woman/minority-owned and -operated brewery in Maryland (115 East West Highway, Silver Spring, Md).
No ordinary brewpub, it’s as much a community organizing point as it is a beermaking center. Denizens brews a rotating list of small-batch, craft beers and serves pints, growlers, bar noshes and plenty of pride.
A lifelong beer aficionado and onetime homebrewer, Silver Spring native Verratti’s career took her first to Massachusetts to work on the John Kerry presidential campaign, where she and Bruno met. Fast forward a couple years, and the pair is still together, taking part in the nation’s first statewide marriage equality victory at Mass Equality.
In true D.C. fashion, Verratti decided to pursue a law degree, which brought her and Bruno back to the area. It was here, over holiday dinners, that they broke bread with Ramirez. For his part, besides marrying into the family, Ramirez is also was a veteran of the Colorado and Pennsylvania beer scenes. Verratti pitched him on the idea of opening their own brewpub and Denizens was born.
Explaining the division of labor, Verratti says simply, “Jeff makes the beer. I sell the beer. And Emily does the business operations.”
Today, as the growth among broader beer industry fizzes, craft brewing is mushrooming in popularity, changing the perception of how beer is consumed and what beer is meant to be. Though it may be changing faster than corporate beer culture, craft brewing is still a white male-dominated industry, Verratti says. She’s set out to change that through Denizens.
Denizens’ philosophy is reflected in its name. Verratti explains that their brewery, “should be a gathering place for the community.”
There shouldn’t be a craft beer type of person, she continued, because “craft beer belongs to all of us.”
“We don’t just shove IPAs down people’s throats.”
The brewery has five flagship beers, drawing from traditional lager, ale and Belgian styles. It also pours seasonal selections that showcase the spot’s creative barrel aging and sour programs.
The barrels bring their own only-in-D.C. story. One beer, named Call Waiting, is aged in bourbon barrels sourced from fellow LGBT liquor purveyors, Republic Restoratives. Verratti is a fan of the Ivy City-based distillery’s “kick-ass cocktails,” and they partner on programs in the LGBT community.
Putting their political organizing hats on, the partners lobbied for statewide policy change that allowed for easier local beer production and distribution and reduced regulations on where beer can be consumed.
Advancing this progressive agenda even further, Verratti has joined the board of the Brewers Association, representing thousands of beermakers across the country. She chairs the diversity committee, endeavoring to ensure that small, independent brewers improve diversity in their workforce, customers base and atmospheres. This year, the leadership panel at the annual conference was made up entirely of women.
At Denizens, “We’re so proud of being out,” Verratti says. “We’re extremely vocal of being an LGBT operation and supporting LGBT causes.”
At the brewery, the three owners have made a concerted effort to create a community space. They work with nearby University of Maryland to experiment with yeast strains and carry Maryland-made products and ingredients for the kitchen that plates everything from wings to winter kale salads. They also host special beer events, craft fairs, trivia, live music, a running club, and yes, even drag shows. They also give back to LGBT organizations, including HRC and SMYAL, and the MoCo Pride Center.
“While we’re not a ‘gay’ brewery like there are ‘gay’ bars, everyone knows who we are,” she says.
Looking forward, Denizens is in full construction mode for its second, roomier location in Riverdale Park, Md. The production space is five time larger (to make more lager), and will also include a full restaurant and tap room.
Even as she works to change the attitude of the beermaking industry, Verratti understands that “it still has a bro-style culture. And that manifests itself in people feeling excluded. We’ll never be the ‘cool kids’ on top of every craft trend. But we will make sure our customers never feel left out or marginalized. We welcome everyone with open arms and a good beer.”
Dining
Annie’s celebrates 75th anniversary
Local institution a place of community and acceptance for LGBTQ patrons

George Katinas, a child of immigrants, opened Paramount Steakhouse in 1948 on the corner of 17th and Church streets, N.W. (where JR.’s is currently located). Three-quarters of a century later, the restaurant has changed its name and location, received accolades from the city and James Beard, and was deservedly feted last weekend. His son Paul now owns the restaurant, and runs Annie’s today with his daughter Georgia Katinas.
George ran the restaurant with his sisters, but it was a singular sister Annie who coaxed the restaurant into its status as a place of community and acceptance for the growing LGBTQ population in Dupont Circle. Katinas renamed the restaurant for her. When there were desperately few areas of safety, Annie’s stood out, and does still today.
Last Saturday, Annie’s pulled out all the stops for an all-day party under a brilliantly sunny sky. The clouds parted for the celebration, bringing together government officials, longtime customers, and families with new fans. A rainbow balloon arch perched across the 17th Street sidewalk.
Drag artists Kimberly Di’Nitta, Victoria Di’Nitta, Jayzeer Shantey, Genocide Abrasax and Candi H. Fuentes performed, Miss Gay Arlington greeted fans, and the Gay Men’s Chorus of Washington sang several renditions a capela for the crowd – including “Happy Birthday” over an enormous cake with sparkler candles (Annie’s has been a longtime supporter of the Gay Men’s Chorus).
“Taking a moment to sing happy birthday with Potomac Fever Group of Gay Men’s Chorus, this moment was so emotional,” said Georgia.
Anne’s set up a swag tent, selling collectible pint glasses featuring caricatures of the Annie’s family, like George and Annie herself. There was also a raffle, carnival snacks, and sidewalk games like a pie walk and martini race.
Vincent Slatt of Rainbow History Project was there to take it all in. Armed with a microphone, he interviewed partygoers to talk about why Annie’s was meaningful to them on the occasion of the anniversary.
In 2019, the James Beard Foundation announced that Annie’s Paramount Steakhouse, won the America’s Classic award for the Mid-Atlantic region (Ben’s Chili Bowl has also won this award). These awards are given “to locally owned restaurants that have timeless appeal and are beloved regionally for quality food that reflects the character of its community,” according to the James Beard website.
“Annie’s became home, and was there when there weren’t too many other opportunities or places to go,” says owner Paul Katinas (George’s son) in a previous interview. Annie’s also developed a strong relationship with the Washington Blade after the newspaper was founded in 1969.
After the outdoor festivities closed at 6 p.m., the party moved inside to Annie’s upper level for an appropriately festive afterparty.
Georgia notes that the anniversary “gave us a moment to reflect and think about how much has changed in 75 years, yet how much we’ve kept Annie’s the same. It’s a reason to celebrate and reflect. We’re so grateful for the support of our regulars.”
As for the next 25 years? Georgia says that the restaurant industry will be affected by the new tipped-wage law, but is adamant that Annie’s will remain.
“We will preserve what we have, honor our past, while making new memories.”

This year is already turning out to be a dynamic one for dining and nightlife. The effects of the pandemic, inflation, and the supply chain are still being felt, but there is a sense of optimism with a host of new openings for the first half of the year. And this season, of course, is often defined by cherry blossoms. Peak bloom is predicted for March 22-25, and festival activities begin on March 18. Enjoy all the pink, and read on for some dining highlights for the first few months of 2023.
Bazaar
Jose Andres triumphantly returned to the Old Post Office building in a coup for the celebrity restaurateur. The building, which is now a Waldorf Astoria hotel, most recently housed a hotel run by the organization of a disgraced former president. Andres had his eyes on the space for two decades and was set to open a restaurant there, but refused because of the new owner. Bazaar, which opened in February, serves sophisticated Spanish cuisine. It has locations in Los Angeles and Miami, plating specialty dishes like Iberico ham with caviar.
Uncaged Mimosas
It’s all flowers and bubbles at Uncaged Mimosas in Truxton Circle, which opened in February. Here, brunch is served every day of the week. Chef Damian Brown pours 20-plus kinds of mimosas, with flights available, plus frozen daiquiris. Neon signs, fake flowers and vines, and lots of color gives it a permanent party vibe. Brunch dishes include chicken and waffles, salmon and grits, and red velvet pancakes.
Ambar
Ambar, one of the only all-you-can-eat dinner restaurants in the region, is opening its second spot in D.C. proper and third in the area. The new two-story restaurant, which opened March 6, sits in Shaw across from Dacha. Owner Ivan Iricanin brings in dishes from across the Balkans, like hearty country slow-cooked dishes from the interior, to seafood specialties from the Mediterranean. There are more than 60 bottles of wine from the Balkans, plus fruit-infused rakia, the popular Balkan spirit. Ambar offers unlimited prix-fixe brunch, lunch, and dinner menus, with optional drink pairings at brunch and dinner.
Owl Room
The U Street Corridor welcomes this new nightlife destination in the former Marvin space on March 10. Run by Marvin owner Eric Hilton and others, Owl Room has transformed the spot into more of a music and concert venue, with a dance floor and stage that will feature live music and DJ sets. The upstairs has a more relaxed patio for cocktails.
Mi Vida
Gay-owned KNEAD Hospitality + Design continues to expand its Mexican hit restaurant, Mi Vida, with a new outpost set to open in April in Penn Quarter. This will be the largest Mi Vida to date, boasting a huge 10,000-square-foot space. Design flourishes include the iconic tree of life that has been showcased at all three locations, as well as a new custom rope art installation by Mexican artisans.
Alfresco
On the southern end of Adams Morgan, Alfresco is a new “American tap and grill” restaurant from the owners of Lauriol Plaza, located just down 18th Street. The 300-plus seat restaurant is set to open in April. Its menu is a distinct departure from Lauriol’s Mexican food; this one serves sandwiches, pizza, pasta, salads, and steaks. True to its name, there is a central courtyard with a retractable pergola roof, as well as two other outdoor patio seating spaces.
Van Leeuwen
New York import Van Leeuwen Ice Cream and its super premium brand of dessert is opening three shops in the next few months: Union Market (418 Morse St. NE), Adams Morgan (2421 18th St. NW), and Georgetown (3245 Prospect St. NW). Founded in 2008 as a New York City ice cream truck, Van Leeuwen is known for both traditional and vegan ice creams. Unique flavors include mac ’n cheese and honeycomb. These are its first shops in D.C., though there are more than 20 across the country.
The Square
The Square (1850 K St.) will be D.C.’s newest food market, opening later this year. The Square is slated to open in 2023 within International Square, and will feature a collection of more than 15 artisanal food vendors, a full-service restaurant and bar, an expansive bar in the central atrium, and outdoor dining seating, plus retail. Richie Brandenburg and Rubén García co-founded The Square, both well-established chefs, bring globally inspired food to the expansive food hall.
Bunker
While not falling into the food sphere, the opening of Bunker has upended nightlife destinations for the LGBTQ community in D.C. Kinetic Productions owners Zach Renovatés and Jesus Quispe debuted the subterranean spot in late February, bringing in local and national DJs, dancers, drag queens, and entertainment. The bar/club is open Thursday-Sunday, playing different music genres each night.
Dining
D.C. restaurants offer something for everyone this Valentine’s Day
From romantic prix-fixe options to a ‘single AF mixer’

Whatever Valentine’s Day means to you, there are plenty of places around D.C. for an excellent prix-fixe dinner or raging party with pals/gals/side pieces. Below are just a few options for what’s available:
Couple Options
Hot new French restaurant L’Ardente and its infamous 40-layer lasagne is offering an extended Valentine’s Day dinner, from Friday, Feb. 10, through Tuesday, Feb. 14. Couples can choose from the regular menu or a five-course tasting menu ($250 for two), which includes passion fruit caviar martinis.
Sababa Cleveland Park will serve a four-course, prix-fixe menu for two on Feb. 14. The menu ($120 for two) includes beet hummus, heart of palm salad, and a date tahini tart (and lots of romance-themed puns).
Cafe Riggs, in the Riggs Hotel, is serving not just a dessert special, but also a hotel package. Hotel guests can enjoy a Valentine’s Brunch in Bed enhancement with the option to a build-your-own mimosa flight or coffee while enjoying a Petit Déjeuner (French continental breakfast) in your room. Reservations are available through OpenTable.
Lyle’s, in the Lyle Hotel, will offer a prix-fixe dinner menu at $85 per person that will be available the weekend before and after Valentine’s Day as well as on the holiday. Reservations are available through OpenTable.
Ellington Park Bistro, in the St. Gregory Hotel, is offering a Valentine’s Day menu as well as the regular a la carte menu. The menu will highlight sweet flavors, and includes dishes such as Butternut Squash Soup, Sweet Shrimp Wontons, and Raspberry and White Chocolate. Reservations available through OpenTable.
The Fairmont Georgetown is offering a decadent Valentine’s Afternoon Tea on Feb. 11, 12, and 14 inside overlooking the courtyard, with petit fours, scones, and savory sandwiches like an oak-smoked cheddar and spiced pear chutney. Tea is served from 1-4 p.m. ($75 per person), with the option to add a glass of G.H. Mumm Champagne.
Nicoletta Italian Kitchen will host a Valentine’s Day Pizza Class on Feb. 11, teaching everyone to make their own heart-shaped pie, while enjoying arancini and wine. And for those looking for something a little less hands-on, Nicoletta will offer a special Valentine’s Day menu on Feb. 14, complete with heart-shaped pizzas (made by the chef this time), as well as three special dishes – a clam appetizer, calzone, and lobster raviolo.
Waldorf Astoria Washington DC in the storied and renamed Old Post Office has an old-school option to “pen letters of love over dinner to share with a special someone.” Valentine’s Day guests will all receive a custom piece of stationary at their time of seating in addition to a menu of inventive dishes with a selection of elevated ingredients. Reservations can be made on SevenRooms.
Immigrant Food+ is serving a three-course menu for two, with options for vegetarian and pescatarian guests. There’s also a featured wine list from all female growers/winemakers including a special Galentine’s Day Flight of a Brut, white, and red.
Non-Couple Options
Brookland’s Finest Bar & Kitchen will offer a special “Salty & Bitter” bar menu over Valentine’s Day weekend, complete with salty snacks and bitter beverages. Snacks include chicken fingers and pretzel bites with truffle oil; drinks include espresso martinis and black Manhattans.
El Techo is throwing a Broken Hearts Club this Valentine’s Day (2/14). The tropical oasis rooftop is “helping single guests nurse their wounds” with a free shot of tequila for everyone who goes by on Feb. 14. It’s also offering a Taco Tuesday deal, which features three tacos and choice of a margarita or beer for $22.
Washingtonians that find themselves ready to mingle this year can head to Fight Club’s Anti-Commitment Ball on Saturday, Feb. 11. The party, from 8 p.m.-1 a.m., will feature DJ Daniel Biltmore spinning live tunes, food/drink specials, and Jell-O shots. Tickets not required. Food and drink items available a la carte.
The National Union Building at 918 F St. is bringing out its “certified fun sommelier” for a wine tasting event. Two sessions (Feb. 12 and Feb 13, both 6:30 p.m.) offer six wines, from fizzy to deep, dark red. Bottles will be available for purchase to take home. Tickets are $35-$45 through Eventbrite.
NoMa’s WunderGarten is hosting a “Nice Try Cupid Anti-Valentine’s Day Single AF Mixer” on Feb. 14, 7-11 p.m. Tickets are free but reservations recommended via Eventbrite.
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