Blog #1: I was excited about my trip even though Gate 1 Travel notified me there was a change in the itinerary. France decided to close the Burgundy canal for long overdue repairs, so we would be traveling on the C. du Rhone au Rhin. I boarded my Air France flight arriving in Paris on time. Contrary to what I was told to expect, customs went really smoothly.  

Day 1: Because customs went quickly, I waited 45 minutes for my pre-arranged driver, to take me to the Gare de Lyon, where I boarded my fast-train to Lyon. A two-hour trip. In Lyon it was a long walk to the hotel, The Radisson Blu, but only because I exited the station on the wrong side. Finally got there, checked into a room on the 36^th floor with a spectacular view of Lyon. Then took a stroll around the area, a short nap, and finally it was time for dinner and to meet the rest of the traveling party. There would only be 13 of us in the group. Five of us from D.C./Rehoboth, and eight others. I met our guide Patricia, who is from Portugal, and spoke fluent French and English. She is charming, and clearly very knowledgeable. She worked with Gate 1 for many years. We stayed at the hotel for our welcome dinner. It was a great meal, and over drinks, each of us was asked to introduce ourselves to the group.  Aside from the five of us, there were three women traveling alone, one gentleman alone, and two couples. They were from New Jersey, New York, Florida, Houston, and Nebraska. I was sitting across from the woman from Nebraska. Conversation at dinner was pleasant but I quickly realized one person was apparently a MAGA. Wonder if you can guess where she was from, lol. But we also found if we didn’t talk politics, which we agreed not to do, things were fine.  After dinner we all headed to our rooms for a good night’s sleep. 

DAY 2: We woke to beautiful weather. I headed to the included breakfast at the hotel, which was really very good. After breakfast we boarded a bus for a tour of Lyon. We had a full-size bus for just the 13 of us. Our guide for the half day tour, was Vincent, and he is charming and young, and told us his fiancé lives in Lyon. He was incredibly knowledgeable. We began at the Basilica, which is being repaired on the outside, but the inside is, wow! Incredible stained glass, and there was a service going on in one of the smaller side chapels which I l listened to for a bit. The Basilica is high on the hill and the views of Lyon are spectacular from there. Then we headed to the old city and walked around for an hour, ending up at the smaller cathedral. Directly in front of it they had set up a great market, mostly food, which would be there for a week. Lyon is a foodie paradise, with, we were told, a restaurant, or at least coffee shop, for every 250 people. We then had a choice of staying in town, or going back to the hotel on the bus, which I did. The afternoon and evening were free time to do as we pleased. I headed to the Les Halles du Lyon Paul Bocuse, named after the famous chef, to take a look around.  It is a large market with small restaurants connected to most of the stalls. It was charming. I then headed to the huge three-story mall across from our hotel and walked around for an hour. Then caught up on some emails, and writing, and met my friends, Paul and Martin, John and Dan, for dinner at 6. We went to a really nice Bistro, which John had found, two tram stops away from the hotel, and enjoyed some drinks and a relaxed dinner. The owner of the place found us a waitress who spoke great English, which made ordering really easy. After a two-hour great meal, we headed back to the hotel. Riding a tram in Lyon is easy, you just need to use your credit card. It is an honor system. Back at the hotel I headed to my room and packed, our luggage had to be outside the door by 8:00 am the next morning.  I set my alarm for 6:30 so I had time to eat at the buffet breakfast. Then it was on the bus to head to our barge.

Blog #2

DAY 3: We began with breakfast at the hotel, which I had with John. Our luggage was collected, and we departed the hotel on our bus by 8:30, heading first to Beaune, on our way to meet the barge. It was about a 2 ½ hour bus ride to Beaune, known as the wine capital of Burgundy. We were met by a local guide, and our first stop was the Hotel-Dieu-Hospices de Beaune. It is a fascinating restored hospital, now a museum. It actually functioned as a hospital, at least part of it, until 1974. From there we took a walk around the old town, all cobblestone streets, wonderful small shops, lots of wine shops, and then stopped for a bite to eat. After that Dan, John, and I, took the 45-minute tram tour-ride around the city, and out to the suburbs. We were driven around fields of grape vines, and saw some beautiful, and interestingly restored, buildings. Then we headed back to the main square to meet the rest of the group.

It was now time to get back on the bus, and we headed to Besançon, about another 1 ½ hours away, where we were to meet our barge, the Daniele. We arrived there about 5:00pm and the crew, six of them, met us on the street, where they took our luggage, and escorted us onto the barge. The crew was charming and funny. Clearly enjoyed entertaining so we knew it was going to be a great cruise. There was the Captain, Vincent, all of 29 years old, the Cruise Director, Christophe, the waitress Margo, the cabin attendant, Lazlo, (the husband of Margo). He actually pretended to be blind when he took our luggage.

For a moment, I fell for it, only because he was the one who took my luggage, and I was watching to make sure it stayed safe. But quickly realized no cabin attendant could be blind. He was joking, and did it in a fun way without any intent of insulting anyone. Then there was Alexie, the engineer, and finally the person who some thought the most important, after the Captain, the Chef, Hun, who is from Vietnam. We soon found out he is an amazing chef, as we were treated to a fantastic dinner that evening. First, we were shown to our cabins, and then met in the lounge for a briefing from Christophe, before going to dinner. We were shown the hot tub on the bow, the outdoor seating area, and the upper deck lounging area. It was all even nicer than the pictures I had seen. Since we were only thirteen, they could seat us around one table and it was set with linens and lights for every meal. It was a relaxed evening. We were told breakfast, which was a buffet, and eggs cooked to order, would be at 7:00 am, and our tour for the next day would begin at 8:30am. We stayed docked overnight in Besançon. The barge would never travel at night.

DAY 4: We gathered for a great breakfast buffet, lox, cheese, fruit, pastries, all you could ask for, with Margo making sure there was plenty of coffee, and serving eggs to those who wanted them. Turned out the chef would make eggs a certain way each morning. Then we met at the gangway and headed to our planned excursion, which was to the La Salin royal d’Arc-et-Senans. It was an old salt factory, functioning when salt was an incredibly valuable commodity. It has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1982. The architect was Claude Nicolas Ledoux. It was commissioned by Louis XV and constructed between 1775 and 1779. We had a great guide for our visit, Sebastian. He gave us details on how the factory was really a community. Workers and their children lived there. There was a church, and hospital, and walls around the entire community. When our tour was over, we headed back to our bus, this time a small school bus, for the ride back to the barge. We arrived at noon just in time for lunch. But first we all stood at the bow to watch as our barge traveled thru its first lock. That is always fun to see. There would be many more. In the afternoon we were given options of taking a bike, there were some onboard, or walking along the canal, and meeting the barge at a later lock. Some took bikes, and five of us took a 2 ½ to 3-mile walk. I took the walk, and the barge picked us up at the next lock at about 4:00pm. Since there is no gym on the barge this was needed exercise. Then we relaxed until it was time for dinner. Another feast from chef Hun, and then a relaxed evening in the lounge. Drinks were always included, and they had a full bar on board, Christophe was a good bartender. He would make a special drink each evening before dinner.

Blog #3

DAY 5: This was our third day on the barge and we were headed to St. Jean du Losne. We had a relaxed morning going thru numerous locks, and we again had the chance to walk, or bike, along the canal, and meet the barge at a later lock. This time it was a shorter walk, only about a mile and a half. We arrived at our destination early and our guide came on board around 3 pm. We then headed out for a two-hour tour which included the city-hall and the barge museum, where they talked about the huge cat-fish that lived in the canal. We were offered a taste on a cracker, which I politely declined, but just about all the others took advantage of. It is a small city of only about 1,000 residents with a huge harbor, which we were told we could walk to tomorrow morning before the ship left its mooring. 

Christophe had arranged for an afternoon game of Petanque, a little like bocce ball, just off the ship. He had drinks and snacks out for us. It was a little warm, about 85 degrees. We did this before dinner which was planned for 8:00pm. Christophe had us select teams of two, and my partner Robert, and I, won our first match, but lost the second. Then it was time for another of chef’s fabulous meals. He would post the menu each day, and if there was something you couldn’t eat, or you just didn’t like, or had an allergy too, he would prepare something else, as long as you gave him notice as soon as the menu was posted.

Like always, the dinner was superb, with great service by Margo, and nice conversations. The meals were so beautifully presented that I did what I never do, and photographed each plate of food. Again, because there were only thirteen of us, the barge can accommodate 20, if each room has two people in it, we continued to have all our meals at one long table. We could change seats at each meal to have different people next to us, which made it really nice. Then it was a relaxed evening onboard, though you could go out, and take a walk. I headed to bed before eleven. Others sat and drank later. They told us the next day was a slow morning and the barge would not get moving till 10:00am, breakfast was at 7:30.

Day 6: The day dawned beautiful. I had set my alarm for 7:00 wanting to be at breakfast by 7:30 so I could take a walk to the harbor before the ship was scheduled to leave. I did that, and was amazed at how many boats were there, literally seemed to be at least a hundred small yachts. Very beautiful. Then stopped at a pharmacy on my walk back to the ship for something I needed. After boarding the ship, and once it began to move, I asked to see the bridge and Christophe took me there. Great little bridge, which really is a small elevator, so it can be lowered when going under a bridge, and there are quite a few of those.

The Captain, Vincent, was driving the ship from outside on what looked like a little game-boy. He is dressed casually like all the crew. He was in jeans, and I kidded him about how simple it all was. He agreed to chat with me when the shipped is docked so I can pry more into his life. I ended up doing that and will write about him in a blog piece later. We were headed to Seurre and are cruising on the Saône river. It was only about a two-hour trip on the water and the same guide will be meeting us there for another tour. A wonderful slow day to enjoy the barge, and being on the beautiful river.

Hate to say it but Seurre turned out to be a totally boring little town. When we docked, I walked around and saw a very pretty church, and that was about it. Now it was Monday and all the shops seemed to be closed, and it looked like a ghost town. When the guide came and took us out in the afternoon, I thought wow, guess I missed something during my short walk in the morning. But I was wrong, it was just as boring in the afternoon. But the people I was with were fun, and being on the barge was great, so not such a bad day, even with a boring town. Dinner as always, was fantastic, weather was perfect, and the sunset was beautiful. A couple of beautiful white swans swimming around the barge.

Blog #4

Day 7: This morning the barge was already moving when we woke up, and breakfast was going to be at 7:30. But unlike yesterday, it was a longer cruise to our next stop, which was Chalon-sur-Saône. The weather was again beautiful, but they did predict a warmer day. This was a bigger city and we were going on a longer excursion.

We boarded a bus when we docked and our guide for the day, Simon, was a great young guy, the best guide we had so far. Our first stop was at a winery, more of a museum at this time, where we got a tour, and were shown how wine was made there. The grape pressing machines, in now what was like a beautifully redone castle. It now housed a great restaurant which our guide told us was called a Table. It was the home of the wine association, those who got together and drank the wine, not the sellers. It was begun when there was prohibition in the United States and less wine was being sold. Then we headed over to a nearby building called, La grande CAVE de Vougeot, where we did some wine tasting. It was fun.

Then we got back on the bus and headed back to Beaune, where we had been before, but this time went to the mustard factory, and learned how they make mustard. An interesting process. Then after getting a taste of about eight different mustards, I liked the honey mustard best, we headed back to the barge for our final dinner and last night on the barge. Dinner was incredible. From great cheeses, to flaming Baked Alaska for dessert. When the chef turned on the flame for the Baked Alaska, our joking cabin attendant came dressed as a firefighter, with extinguisher in hand. For our petanque game, he had dressed in a skirt, and cheerleader outfit, with pom-poms.

The crew dressed up more formally for this dinner, and it was the first time since they met us to welcome us onboard, six days ago, that they did. As I have said the dining on the cruise was 5 star all the way. Hun is an amazing chef and could work in any Michelin restaurant. After dinner we got a short briefing and were told breakfast would be at 7:00am and that we were to have our luggage out in front of our cabins by 8:00, when the crew would collect it. Then we would say our goodbyes to the barge, and our great crew, and board our bus for the trip to Paris by 8:30. I packed my suitcase before I went to sleep.

Blog #5

Day 8: It was sad to leave the barge, and the great crew. We said our teary goodbyes again, and boarded the bus headed to our first and only stop, on the way to Paris. The stop was in Auxerre. It is a beautiful city and we had a great guide. I don’t know for sure, but many of us believed she was transgender. She was very knowledgeable and one of the best guides we had. She met us at the bus, and took us on a two-hour tour, after which we had some time on our own for shopping, and or lunch, and we had to meet back at the bus at 2:30.

We began the tour by taking some pictures from a pedestrian bridge over the Yonne river, which is where Auxerre is located. The views were beautiful, no matter which way we looked. Then we walked up to the top of the hill, and toured the church, and walked the town, which as I said, was charming. I decided I didn’t want a big lunch, so headed back down to the river bank, and ended up having a coke zero, and a huge dish of ice cream. Then met everyone else, and we got back on the bus. Arrival in Paris was scheduled for between 4:30 and 5:00 and we made it on time. I had texted with my friend Sally, whose home I was going to for dinner, that evening. She gave me detailed directions for the metro, and how to get into her building. I had been there years ago but the memory goes with age, lol.

We checked into the hotel, the Pullman Montparnasse, and I was in my room by 5 p.m. I washed up, changed, and headed out by 5:45, managing to get to Sally’s place by 6:45. Only got confused once, when I had to change from the 4 line, to the 7 line. I ended up asking for help from a really cute young guy, who it turned out was French, spoke English, was new to Paris, and also lost. He was heading in the same direction as I was, so with his help we got on the right train. Sally and her husband Martin, had prepared a really gourmet meal, drinks first and then four courses. They had both their kids over, Simon and Esther. I had seen Esther about a year ago in DC, but hadn’t seen Simon in years. He was one of the people who helped me with reviewing the first draft of my book. He now has a partner, and a four-year-old daughter, June, who I didn’t get to meet this time. Sally had also invited a friend, Jake, who used to live in their building, another expat from the United States. He seemed like a really great guy. Dinner was superb, but then I didn’t expect any less from Sally and Martin. I had once stayed with them for a couple of days a few years ago, when Sally was still working at the US Embassy. I got back to the hotel at about 11:00pm, and needed a shower from the heat in the metro. I planned to head down to breakfast by 7:00 to get ready for our tour the next day.

DAY 9: It dawned warm, but then we were told we were lucky, as it was going to get hotter in Paris and by Monday, it was anticipated it would hit 100 degrees. Remember, most people in Paris do not have air-conditioning. We had a good guide for the bus tour, and went by the Arc de Triomphe, the Eiffel Tower, and a host of other famous buildings and landmarks, in the beautiful city of Paris. We ended the tour in the beautiful Luxemburg gardens. There John, Daniel, Paul and I, left the group who headed back to the hotel. Martin has stayed behind in the morning and we agreed to meet him at Notre Dame for our tour, which was to begin a 2:00pm. We had a couple of hours so we walked over to St. Stephens church, which is beautiful, and then walked around and found a great little café for lunch. Then we continued our walk and met Martin and our guide on time.

The guide was a nice guy and very knowledgeable, but the tour we signed up for though Viator was a waste of money. Let me say Notre Dame is amazing. I had seen it before the fire, and today it is so much more beautiful. Really incredible. As to the tour we thought it was private for the five of us and then they had soldtwo more tickets and another couple joined us. Turns out even with a private tour you need to wait on line with everyone else, and once inside it is very hard to hear the guide with seven people around, and the huge crowds in the church.

Also, what is great is each sign in the church had an English translation to it, which was easier to read then trying to hear the guide. I will complain to VIATOR. Then it was back to our hotel to meet the group for a final dinner. One of our group had departed early, and another had dinner outside the hotel. Turned out, she was the smart one. Gate 1 made a big mistake with this dinner. They booked it in the hotel restaurant; the one used for the breakfast buffet. We were the only ones there at 7pm, and based on the food, I understood why. It was literally awful. It was unfortunate with all the great places right around the hotel where we could have eaten. Despite the lousy food we enjoyed everyone, and then said our goodbyes to the group, and our guide Patricia, as tomorrow we were all heading out. Some to continue on, like Dan and John, who were heading to a river cruise. 

Paul and Martin were going to visit some friends, and I was going to head back to DC. After dinner, Paul, Martin, John, Dan, and I, were joined by Nancy, the smart one who ate dinner out, and we walked around and found a nice café for a drink.

It was a great way to end this barge excursion. I headed back to my room at about 11:00, and got ready to check out the next day.

DAY 10: Went to breakfast provided in the hotel, and sat with Rob. Had an interesting conversation with him and then went back to the room, did some writing, and checked out at Noon. Got notice my flight was going to be delayed a little but headed to the airport anyway, and sat in the Air France lounge, where I met some interesting people to chat with.

All-in-all, this was a great trip, and my first Gate 1 trip was a success. I would recommend it to anyone. I have already booked a river cruise with them for next June, on the Douro in Portugal. But first I will be on my annual transatlantic cruise, this time on the Celebrity XCEL out of Barcelona, on October 23 rd . My friends at My Lux Cruise have booked this as always, and they have booked nearly 200 people for this group. Looking forward to it. In the meantime, my excursions from DC will be mostly to Rehoboth Beach. Hope some of you who have read this blog, will get some idea of how much fun a trip on a barge is.

Blog #6

Interview with the Captain of the Daniele

I have just concluded a great six-day trip on a barge through the Burgundy region of France. I didn’t know what to expect when I signed up for the cruise with Gate 1 travel, but it turned out great. There were thirteen of us, with six crew members. A pretty good ratio I would say. As with any cruise the most important member of the crew is the Captain. I sat down with ours for a little interview. He is both smart and charming.

Vincent Kuber, the Captain of the Daniele, was born in Strasbourg, France. He is an only child, and is 29 years old. He told me his parents still live in the suburbs of Strasbourg, and he has a flat in the city. Vincent is currently still officially single, but girls, don’t get excited, because he has a fiancé, he says is beautiful and amazing. At the moment she is living in his flat in Strasbourg while she is on vacation. She is originally from the Canary Islands.

Vincent is a relaxed kind of guy, and really perfect for what he does. He came to sailing in a rather round-about fashion. He told me as a youngster he first wanted to be a veterinarian. Then when he finished high school and started university, he had decided he would get a degree in psychology. But after a year at university, he concluded that was really not for him, so he left school, and ended up working in the Post Office. Then in 2018 he saw an ad for a sailor. He loved being outdoors, and thought that could be interesting. So, he submitted his resume, stretching the truth just a little, saying how he had gone sailing with his grandfather, and knew the water and boats. He got an interview and they liked him, I can see why, he is a likeable guy, and they hired him. He got the job with the Port of Strasbourg, and ended up as crew on one of the sightseeing boats that went around the city. I kidded him and told him if he ever went to New York City, where I was born, he could get a job on the Circle Line, which goes around Manhattan. He stayed with the sightseeing boat for a number of years. After being there about 1 ½ years, he was offered training as captain on one of those boats. He passed the test and stayed with them for another 2 ½ years. At that point he said being on those boats’ day-after-day “felt a little like being in a goldfish bowl and swimming round and round.”

So, after four years there, he decided to apply to the company, Croisi Europe, a large company with 55 boats all over Europe. While he wasn’t ready to be a Captain on one of their boats, he was hired as a helmsman, on one of their six barges. He had that job for about 1 ½ years until he was trained, and then became a captain in 2025. One of the nice things about being a Captain on a barge is he can dress casually, jeans and t-shirt, and works out of a small bridge, or even has a remote that looks like a game-boy, because often the bridge has to be lowered when the ship goes through some of the locks.

He said Croisi Europe is a good company to work for. When I asked if he always had the same ship, he said the company would ask the crew each year which boat they want to work on, and if there is an opening, they have a chance to switch boats. Right now, he is enjoying this barge. Proof of how good the company is was that Vincent left the barge for two days, and we had a replacement Captain, the man who managed all their barges. He let Vincent off to be the Best Man at his friend’s wedding.

As we chatted, I kidded him, suggesting if he is trained as a riverboat captain on one of the smaller river boats, he should apply for one on the Duoro on which I will be sailing next June.

On the barge we are on now, the Daniele, there is a married couple as part of the crew, one being the waitress, and her husband is the cabin attendant. Vincent said his future wife is a waitress on one of the other boats, so I said he could follow Margo and Lazlo’s lead, and they could work together.

We chatted some more, and I asked Vincent if there was anything else about him, I should know. He then told me he is a Type 1 diabetic. He was diagnosed at the age of eleven. He said it has never stopped him from doing anything at this time, but that he thinks it could stop him from working on an ocean-going vessel. He believes that he may not be able to be a Captain on one of those ships. That would be a shame, as he is a great guy and I know would make a great captain of any ship.

Manchester, England, is not only famous for its industrial heritage, music scene, and football clubs — it’s also home to one of the most vibrant and historically significant LGBTQ communities in the U.K. Often referred to as the “gay capital of the North,” Manchester has been a pioneer in LGBTQ rights, visibility, and celebration, cultivating a culture of inclusivity that continues to thrive today.

The roots of Manchester’s LGBTQ history stretch back centuries, but it was during the 20th century that the city truly became a hub for activism and progress. In 1880, a scandal known as the “Manchester Drag Ball” brought national attention to the city when police raided a fancy dress ball attended by men in drag. Though the incident was used to stigmatize the community, it also marked one of the first widely publicized moments of queer expression in the city.

Manchester is home to several institutions that preserve and celebrate queer history. The LGBT Foundation, based in the city, is one of the U.K.’s leading LGBTQ charities, providing health and support services as well as educational resources.

The city is also immortalized in pop culture as the backdrop for “Queer as Folk,” the groundbreaking 1999 television series created by Russell T. Davies. The show, set in Manchester’s Gay Village, helped bring the realities of LGBTQ life to mainstream audiences and played a pivotal role in shaping public attitudes.

Manchester, is a city that lives and breathes resilience. It’s a place where cobblestone streets echo with the voices of industrial workers, punk rockers, activists, and proud members of the LGBTQ community. I came here seeking stories — some hidden in old libraries, others pulsing through neon-lit streets — and left with a sense of belonging I hadn’t expected.

My base for this journey was the magnificent Kimpton Clocktower Hotel. Located in a former insurance building dating back to the 1890s, it seamlessly marries historic grandeur with modern luxury. Walking through its doors felt like entering a different era. The soaring ceilings, intricate tilework, and dramatic staircases told stories of old Manchester, while the in-room record players spinning tracks by Oasis made sure I knew exactly where I was.

The heart of the hotel is The Refuge, a restaurant and bar that buzzes with energy. Whether sipping cocktails beneath the Winter Garden’s lush greenery or sharing small plates that borrow flavors from around the world, I felt immersed in the city’s welcoming vibe. Even in its luxury, the Kimpton feels like a place for everyone, especially when there is a DJ spinning some cool jazzy beats.

One thing I loved about this property is their “Forgot it? We’ve got it” service. Whether its toothpaste, a shaving kit, or phone charger, the helpful staff have you covered. I tend to forget at least one necessity on every trip. The Kimpton’s central location places guests within walking distance of Manchester’s vibrant cultural scene, including the Palace Theatre, Canal Street, and various shopping and dining options.

My first stop in Manchester was the John Rylands Library, an architectural marvel of neo-Gothic design. I was there specifically to view “The Secret Public” exhibition. It traces Manchester’s underground art scene, especially its ties to queer culture and punk resistance. Flyers, magazines, and photographs are on display.

And while we are on the topic of LGBTQ history, the best way to understand Manchester’s queer roots is by talking to the locals. The Free Manchester Walking Tours offers a Queer History Tour, led by passionate guides who have in depth knowledge of the city’s LGBTQ history and culture. We began our tour in Sackville Gardens, home to the Alan Turing Memorial and the Beacon of Hope, a tribute to those affected by HIV/AIDS. It’s a space for reflection, nestled just beside Canal Street’s constant thrum. For those not familiar with Alan Turing, he was a pioneering mathematician and computer scientist, best known for his role in cracking the German Enigma code during World War II, a breakthrough that helped shorten the war and save countless lives. Often regarded as the father of modern computing, Turing laid the theoretical foundation for artificial intelligence. Despite his monumental contributions, he was persecuted for being gay, ultimately leading to his tragic death in 1954. Today, he is celebrated as both a scientific genius and a symbol of the ongoing struggle for LGBTQ rights.

No trip to Manchester would be complete without a night — or three — spent in the Gay Village. Centered around Canal Street, it’s a place that radiates warmth and freedom. What once was a hidden, underground scene in the 1980s has become a global symbol of LGBTQ pride.

During the day, you’ll find people sipping coffee along the canal and by night, the rainbow flags light up the street. Spaces like Via and the Eagle pulse with music and laughter, while Cruz 101 remains a sacred institution for dancefloor devotees. This is more than a party district; it’s a cultural hub, one that has helped shape national conversations and lead by example. 

Manchester’s gay scene is more than just nightlife. In the Northern Quarter, I stumbled into Feel Good Club. a queer-owned café that quickly became one of my favorite stops during my trip. Feel Good Club is a café but the space also hosts workshops, mental wellness events, and spontaneous conversations with strangers who somehow feel like old friends. I ordered a bowl of apple-soaked oats and I have to say, it was one of the most delicious and inexpensive things I ate during my entire trip to England. I should have asked for the recipe!

A few blocks away sits Queer Lit, an LGBTQ bookstore filled to the brim with stories I wish I’d had growing up. From queer romance and fiction to books on trans identity and intersectionality, the shop is both cozy and revolutionary. Queer Lit claims to have the largest selection of LGBTQ books in all of Europe. Beyond books, the store hosts events such as workshops, live readings, and book clubs, providing a safe and inclusive space for the community to gather and celebrate queer literature. They also serve a variety of beverages. I would definitely recommend trying one of their hot chocolate drinks.

Though my trip didn’t coincide with Manchester Pride, visitors can expect tens of thousands each August. Pride here features a blend of celebration and activism. From glitter-filled marches to thoughtful panel discussions, it’s a reflection of the city itself: joyful, inclusive, and unafraid to speak truth to power. Importantly, the money raised goes straight back into the community, funding LGBTQ+ health initiatives, charities, and support services. Also in August is SCENE, Manchester’s LGBTQ+ Film and TV Festival, which consists of a week of new and classic LGBTQ cinema and TV screenings, panels, and other events.

All this touring and learning about queer history made me hungry, so for dinner, I ventured to Maray, a Middle Eastern-inspired gem in the city center. Its signature “Disco Cauliflower” — roasted whole and topped with tahini, pomegranate, and harissa — was a revelation. The food, like the city, defied expectations. It was spicy, complex and comforting. I would also recommend trying the crispy sea bass with broccoli slaw. Maray’s vibe is relaxed yet refined, a perfect place to unwind after a day of exploration. Its inclusive, welcoming spirit felt aligned with everything I’d experienced in Manchester so far.

For a more casual dining experience, head over to Freight Island, a unique food hall and entertainment venue located near Piccadilly Station. The venue features a variety of locally owned food stalls including Mia’s Arepas, Ornella’s Little Kitchen and Mega Gyros. It’s a great place to grab a quick bite or cocktail after work with friends.

Manchester may not be as polished as London, but that adds to its charm and intrigue. I tend to enjoy cities like Manchester over their larger neighbors. During my entire stay, I was able to walk to every attraction I visited and by experience, the best way to see a city is on foot. It’s also a great way to burn off those extra calories.

Whether you’re wandering Canal Street at sunset, or simply sipping hot chocolate at Queer Lit, Manchester is a place where you can be yourself and belong.

Enjoy the journey!

CAMBRIDGE, Md. — Driving through this scenic, historic town on Maryland’s Eastern Shore, you’ll be charmed by streets lined with unique shops, restaurants, and beautifully restored Victorian homes. You’ll also be struck by the number of LGBTQ Pride flags flying throughout the town.

The flags are a reassuring signal that everyone is welcome here, despite the town’s location in ruby red Dorchester County, which voted for Donald Trump over Kamala Harris by a lopsided margin. But don’t let that deter you from visiting. A new organization, Proudly Cambridge, is holding its debut Pride event this weekend, touting the town’s welcoming, inclusive culture.

“We stumbled on a beautiful secret and we wanted to help get the word out,” said James Lumalcuri of the effort to create Proudly Cambridge.

The organization celebrates diversity, enhances public spaces, and seeks to uplift all that Cambridge has to share, according to its mission statement, under the tagline “You Belong Here.”

The group has so far held informal movie nights and a picnic and garden party; the launch party is June 28 at the Cambridge Yacht Club, which will feature a Pride celebration and tea dance. The event’s 75 tickets sold out quickly and proceeds benefit DoCo Pride.

“Tickets went faster than we imagined and we’re bummed we can’t welcome everyone who wanted to come,” Lumalcuri said, adding that organizers plan to make “Cheers on the Choptank” an annual event with added capacity next year.

One of the group’s first projects was to distribute free Pride flags to anyone who requested one and the result is a visually striking display of a large number of flags flying all over town. Up next: Proudly Cambridge plans to roll out a program offering affirming businesses rainbow crab stickers to show their inclusiveness and LGBTQ support. The group also wants to engage with potential visitors and homebuyers.

“We want to spread the word outside of Cambridge — in D.C. and Baltimore — who don’t know about Cambridge,” Lumalcuri said. “We want them to come and know we are a safe haven. You can exist here and feel comfortable and supported by neighbors in a way that we didn’t anticipate when we moved here.”

Lumalcuri, 53, a federal government employee, and his husband, Lou Cardenas, 62, a Realtor, purchased a Victorian house in Cambridge in 2021 and embarked on an extensive renovation. The couple also owns a home in Adams Morgan in D.C.

“We saw the opportunity here and wanted to share it with others,” Cardenas said. “There’s lots of housing inventory in the $300-400,000 range … we’re not here to gentrify people out of town because a lot of these homes are just empty and need to be fixed up and we’re happy to be a part of that.”

Lumalcuri was talking with friends one Sunday last year at the gazebo (affectionately known as the “gayzebo” by locals) at the Yacht Club and the idea for Proudly Cambridge was born. The founding board members are Lumalcuri, Corey van Vlymen, Brian Orjuela, Lauren Mross, and Caleb Holland. The group is currently working toward forming a 501(c)3.

“We need visibility and support for those who need it,” Mross said. “We started making lists of what we wanted to do and the five of us ran with it. We started meeting weekly and solidified what we wanted to do.”

Mross, 50, a brand strategist and web designer, moved to Cambridge from Atlanta with her wife three years ago. They knew they wanted to be near the water and farther north and began researching their options when they discovered Cambridge.

“I had not heard of Cambridge but the location seemed perfect,” she said. “I pointed on a map and said this is where we’re going to move.”

The couple packed up, bought a camper trailer and parked it in different campsites but kept coming back to Cambridge. 

“I didn’t know how right it was until we moved here,” she said. “It’s the most welcoming place … there’s an energy vortex here – how did so many cool, progressive people end up in one place?” 

Corey van Vlymen and his husband live in D.C. and were looking for a second home. They considered Lost River, W.Va., but decided they preferred to be on the water.

“We looked at a map on both sides of the bay and came to Cambridge on a Saturday and bought a house that day,” said van Vlymen, 39, a senior scientist at Booz Allen Hamilton. They’ve owned in Cambridge for two years.

They were drawn to Cambridge due to its location on the water, the affordable housing inventory, and its proximity to D.C.; it’s about an hour and 20 minutes away.

Now, through the work of Proudly Cambridge, they hope to highlight the town’s many attributes to residents and visitors alike.

“Something we all agree on is there’s a perception problem for Cambridge and a lack of awareness,” van Vlymen said. “If you tell someone you’re going to Cambridge, chances are they think, ‘England or Massachusetts?’”

He cited the affordability and the opportunity to save older, historic homes as a big draw for buyers.

“It’s all about celebrating all the things that make Cambridge great,” Mross added. “Our monthly social events are joyful and celebratory.” A recent game night drew about 70 people.

She noted that the goal is not to gentrify the town and push longtime residents out, but to uplift all the people who are already there while welcoming new visitors and future residents. 

They also noted that Proudly Cambridge does not seek to supplant existing Pride-focused organizations. Dorchester County Pride organizes countywide Pride events and Delmarva Pride was held in nearby Easton two weeks ago.

“We celebrate all diversity but are gay powered and gay led,” Mross noted.  

To learn more about Proudly Cambridge, visit the group on Facebook and Instagram.

What to see and do

Cambridge, located 13 miles up the Choptank River from the Chesapeake Bay, has a population of roughly 15,000. It was settled in 1684 and named for the English university town in 1686. It is home to the Harriet Tubman Museum, mural, and monument. Its proximity to the Blackwater National Wildlife Refuge makes it a popular stop for birders, drawn to more than 27,000 acres of marshland dubbed “the Everglades of the north.”

The refuge is walkable, bikeable, and driveable, making it an accessible attraction for all. There are kayaking and biking tours through Blackwater Adventures (blackwateradventuresmd.com).

Back in town, take a stroll along the water and through historic downtown and admire the architecture. Take in the striking Harriet Tubman mural (424 Race St.). Shop in the many local boutiques, and don’t miss the gay-owned Shorelife Home and Gifts (421 Race St.), filled with stylish coastal décor items. 

Stop for breakfast or lunch at Black Water Bakery (429 Race St.), which offers a full compliment of coffee drinks along with a build-your-own mimosa bar and a full menu of creative cocktails.

The Cambridge Yacht Club (1 Mill St.) is always bustling but you need to be a member to get in. Snapper’s on the water is temporarily closed for renovations. RaR Brewing (rarbrewing.com) is popular for craft beers served in an 80-year-old former pool hall and bowling alley. The menu offers burgers, wings, and other bar fare.

For dinner or wine, don’t miss the fantastic Vintage 414 (414 Race St.), which offers lunch, dinner, wine tasting events, specialty foods, and a large selection of wines. The homemade cheddar crackers, inventive flatbreads, and creative desserts (citrus olive oil cake, carrot cake trifle) were a hit on a recent visit.

Also nearby is Ava’s (305 High St.), a regional chain offering outstanding Italian dishes, pizzas, and more.  

For something off the beaten path, visit Emily’s Produce (22143 Church Creek Rd.) for its nursery, produce, and prepared meals.

“Ten minutes into the sticks there’s a place called Emily’s Produce, where you can pay $5 and walk through a field and pick sunflowers, blueberries, you can feed the goats … and they have great food,” van Vlymen said.

As for accommodations, there’s the Hyatt Regency Chesapeake Bay (100 Heron Blvd. at Route 50), a resort complex with golf course, spa, and marina. Otherwise, check out Airbnb and VRBO for short-term rentals closer to downtown.

Its proximity to D.C. and Baltimore makes Cambridge an ideal weekend getaway. The large LGBTQ population is welcoming and they are happy to talk up their town and show you around. 

“There’s a closeness among the neighbors that I wasn’t feeling in D.C.,” Lumalcuri said. “We look after each other.”