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Northwest charm meets outdoor wonderland in Portland

Gorgeous outdoor sites, friendly queer nightlife, but beware of hidden hotel fees

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Portland, gay news, Washington Blade
Multnomah Falls hear Portland. (Photo by Bill Malcolm)

Portland, Ore., makes for a perfect vacation that combines the stunning beauty of the Pacific Northwest with great food and libations and a vibrant, hip scene where LGBTQ life is integrated into the mainstream (albeit offbeat) culture.

Getting there

I took a one stop on Southwest out to Portland. I like Southwest because you don’t pay extra for anything — bag checking is free, there is no ticket change fee and the fares are competitive (especially without the add ons). My other favorite airline, Alaska, also has plenty of flights to the Rose City.

Once at the airport, hop on the TriMet MAX light rail to downtown or environs. The fare is just $2.50. It is good for all MAX trains, TriMet buses and the Portland Streetcar. Plan your trip at trimet.org.

Portland is very walkable. The blocks are short and everything is close together. You won’t need a rental car and of course it has a bike-sharing system as well as scooters. If you do rent a car, don’t planning on pumping your own gas. It’s against the law. Instead, the gas stations do it for you. 

Where to stay 

Portland downtown hotels frequently tack on a resort or “amenity fee” of around $30 a night to their already high rates. Stay at the Park Lane Suites and Inn instead and skip the fee and pay a lower rate. You get your own apartment and can enjoy the Goose Hollow-Nob Hill-Alphabet District neighborhood. It’s a short walk to the downtown attractions, Washington Park (and the Rose Test Gardens), and the boutique shopping and restaurants on both NW 23rd. and NW 21st Avenue. Pick up a to go meal at the nearby Zaputo’s Grocery Store. Details at parklanesuite.com.  

What to do

A visit to Washington Park and the Rose Test Gardens just west of downtown is a must. The views of Mt. Hood are stunning and on a clear day you might catch a glimpse of Mt. St. Helens. 

A visit to the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area (and Multnomah Falls) is another must. Catch the Gorge Express Shuttle (columbiagorgeexpress.com) from the Gateway Transit Center (on the Max light rail line) to Multnomah Falls. The short hike to the top of the falls is worth it. You can also catch the shuttle to the Rooster Rock State Park, one of the few state parks with its own clothing-optional beach. 

Finally, the Shuttle continues onto Hood River for more views of the Gorge. You can catch the wind surfers in Hood River. If you have a car, return along the Washington State side by taking the Bridge of the Gods at Cascade Locks. You may want to explore Mt. Adams (the second highest volcano in the region) by taking the Hood River Bridge over to Washington. 

Another option if you have a car is the notorious Fruit Loop. Head north from Hood River past fruit orchards, wineries and breweries. Details at hoodriverfruitloop.com.

Meet the locals for a run or walk in the Frontrunners Club. Members meet Saturdays at 9 a.m. at the Vera Katz Esplanade Riverwalk on the Willamette River. If you’re lucky, Poison Waters (aka Kevin Cook) may drop by for the warm up. They also meet Tuesday evenings. The Adventuring Group also has lots of hikes to the nearby (and far away) attractions).

A walk along the Park Blocks south of downtown towards Portland State University is very pleasant. A visit to the huge Powell’s Book is also a must. Just across Burnside Avenue from downtown, it’s located in the Pearl District (formerly the Northwest Industrial District).

The Saturday farmers market is also fun and from there you can walk along the Tom McCall waterfront park for miles. 

Nightlife

No trip to the Rose City is complete without seeing Darcelle XV’s drag show at the Darcelle XV Showplace (208 N.W. 3rd). Darcelle (aka Walter Cole) at 88 is the oldest performing drag queen in the world and has been doing the shows for 47 years. A movie about her life comes out in September and Oregon Public Broadcasting did a documentary show on her called “That’s no lady — that’s Darcelle.” Warning — the Rhinestone Cowboy scene is not for the faint of heart. Tickets by calling 503-222-5338. 

Next door is CC Slaughters and Rainbow Lounge (219 N.W. Davis) which is a lot of fun. 

Scandals Bar at 1125 S.W. Harvey Milk (aka S.W. Stark Avenue) is the only bar left on what was once Vaseline Alley (the gayborhood). It has a great outdoor patio. It’s across the street from my favorite restaurant, Jake’s (try the salmon) and one of my favorite hotels, The Mark Spencer. Gentrification of gayborhoods across the country have taken its toll and Portland is no exception. The notorious Majestic Steam Baths is now the Crystal Hotel. Portland still has two for now, Steam and Hawk’s.

Other fun bars are Silverado at 610 N.W. Couch and Stag’s at 317 N.W. Broadway both have dancers. 

See portlandmercury.com for its LGBTQ bar review in the June 6-19 edition and a complete listing of all bars and clubs. 

More info

Portland has a huge homeless population who literally camp everywhere downtown and along the 1-205 Freeway. It’s even worse than San Francisco.

Also, the downtown hotel rates are quite high and come with surprise resort fees to boot. Staying on the east side near the convention center is a bit cheaper. The airport hotels are also cheaper but away from the nightlife. 

Bring an empty suitcase and replenish your wardrobe. Oregon has no sales tax (except on rental cars and hotels). 

For more information and travel ideas, pick up a copy of The Willamette Week or The Mercury. The two alternative weeklies cover the city including LGBTQ activities.

Portland is a more charming and down to earth version of Seattle with a better climate including in the summer (as it actually gets one). The weather stays dry through the middle or end of September and the best hiking in the nearby mountains is during this time. The people are friendly and it is definitely worth a vacation visit. If you have time, you can catch Amtrak up to Seattle or even Vancouver, B.C.

I love the Northwest. With the volcanos, nearby ocean and year round greenery, it’s also is one of the few places that still has a regional feel. You will want to come back.

Bill Malcolm is a former resident of Portland, Ore. He now lives in Indianapolis where he writes the nation’s only LGBTQ+ value travel column as a hobby. It is a syndicated publication appearing in publications in Florida, Palm Springs, Chicago and other cities. 

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Gay hotel company brings luxury to Puerto Vallarta

Tryst Puerto Vallarta to open this spring

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Tryst Puerto Vallarta (Photo courtesy of Tristan Schukraft)

The Tryst Puerto Vallarta begins welcoming discerning gay guests this spring, just in time for the Mexican resort city’s Pride celebrations. 

The 55-room resort includes a penthouse suite featuring two terraces, three large suites with expansive living areas and terraces and several junior suites with unique features. A highly anticipated rooftop pool with a bar area and restaurant offering fine Mexican cuisine are just some of the highlights. 

“You can stay here and never leave the resort,” said Tristan Schukraft, the driving force behind Tryst Hotels, and self-described CEO of “everything gay.”

While he started out in his career working in the early days of electronic ticketing, Schukraft may be more known for his work with MISTR, a popular online source for PrEP. He also recently entered into an agreement to purchase the Abbey in West Hollywood, Calif.

With Tryst he promises “it’s a fun, exciting atmosphere.” 

“The idea is not just the guests are coming to the resort, but locals,” said Schukraft. “So, when you stay here it’s the way to mingle with the local gay community.”

To welcome and include both guests and locals, the resort will host drag brunches in the hotel restaurant. Weekend parties featuring DJs on the eighth floor pool and bar area also seeks to make this not just a place to stay, but one to celebrate with the community.

Schukraft hopes visitors will get to know guests or locals poolside, or in the restaurant, and make lifelong friendships. 

Or perhaps find a bit of romance: After all the hotel is set in the famed Zona Romántica.  

“Tryst Hotels are not merely luxury destinations; they are a celebration of gay culture, where every guest is embraced,” said Schukraft. “Our mission is to create spaces where luxury and identity flourish without compromise.”

Tryst Hotels CEO Tristan Schukraft. (Photo courtesy of Tristan Schukraft)

The D.C. Travel and Adventure Show took place last month in D.C., and LGBTQ-specific travel was among the topics the convention highlighted. The Washington Blade in its preview of the expo noted LGBTQ travelers may book a resort or vacation that promises “everyone is welcome,” but upon arrival feel uncomfortable by reactions of staff or other guests due to expressing their identity as queer people. 

Schukraft has experienced this. 

“I was at a hetero-friendly hotel Miami, but it was also marketed to gay men,” he explained. “So, you have two guys kissing at the pool and you have a straight couple looking over and wondering are they staying at a gay hotel. It’s sort of an awkward occurrence.” 

Everyone, therefore, is welcome at Tryst resorts, but it is not being marketed outside of the community. 

“My boyfriends and I have even experienced side-eye glances for our choice of swimwear,” Schukraft said. “You won’t find that at Tryst Hotels.”

Speaking of attire: Many luxury guesthouses, inns and hotels catering to gay men offer clothing-optional zones for guests. It’s an allure for some travelers. 

But, not at Tryst.

“Don’t get me wrong, clothing optional resorts are fun, but that’s not our concept. Our concept is a luxurious, inclusive resort,” Schukraft said with a touch of elan apropos for the “CEO of everything gay.” “Of course wear your thongs [and] Speedos.”

Tryst Puerto Vallarta and Tryst San Juan in Puerto Rico, which is slated to open in 2025, are being marketed as gay-owned, gay-focused resorts with luxurious offerings and amenities. Many resorts known to epitomize luxury may be seen as slightly conservative or “stuffy.” 

Luxury promises not to come only in the form of superior bedding, bathrobes, slippers and skincare products, but also in the stunning interiors. 

The Puerto Vallarta property engaged the same studio known for their acclaimed work at the Four Seasons Tamarindo. Designers from Estudio Esterlina bring a refined mix of minimalism, modernism and Mexican. 

“Why can’t you have fun and luxury in the same space? Here, you let your hair down by the pool, enjoy a pool party, a fine Mexican meal in our full-service restaurant, a drag brunch on weekends and socialize with new friends all while feeling safe,” Schukraft said. “Our goal is to show luxury doesn’t have to mean stuffy.”

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Quito and the Galápagos on Celebrity Flora: blog #5

Darwin was right, it is an amazing place.

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Celebrity Flora

The last full day of our Galápagos cruise dawned bright, with clear skies. The weather would change during the day. After breakfast we boarded tenders and were told it would be a dry landing. That meant we didn’t have to get in the water to get off the tender. Instead, we got to a very nice dock on the Island of Santa Cruz, in the middle of a bustling town. We were informed by the naturalist with us the population of the Island was about 25,000. We then boarded a bus for the short ride to the Charles Darwin Station, Giant Tortoise Breeding Center. We were greeted by a life size seated statue of Darwin. It was really interesting and we got to see more giant tortoises, and baby ones as well. The Center was really close to town and they told us we had an hour to walk back to meet our bus for the next part of the day. I am sure the goal of the walk was to have us shop at the various stores along the way. Some were really nice, while some were typical tourist shops. While I rarely buy anything on my travels, as I have learned after many years, whatever I buy often ends up boxed up in a closet. But many did shop, and a couple of my traveling companions bought some really nice silver jewelry.

We had been told where to meet the group, which was back at the dock, for the second part of the day. We again got on busses, and headed to a tortoise preserve in the highlands. On the way we stopped for a Scalesia tree planting activity. It is a restoration project supported by Celebrity. We each got boots to put on, two baby trees, and a trowel. Then were led into the forest to plant our trees. On the way back to our bus, my group was stuck behind a giant tortoise, who was meandering along the same path we were taking. It was fun to watch him, until we could finally walk around him, and be on our way. 

Then back on the bus to the El Manzanillo Ranch and tortoise preserve. There are a lot of tortoises on Santa Cruz Island. At the ranch we had a great buffet lunch, and were treated to entertainment, a wonderful dance program by kids in a folk-dance group. They were fun to watch. The program for the day called for us to then take a walk through the preserve. But during lunch the rains began, and they came down in buckets. So many of us chose to pass on the walk, get back on the busses, and head to the dock in town. We had been told the tenders would be running regularly and that we had up to three hours to stay on the Island and shop. I don’t know anyone who did. It was still drizzling and we all decided to head back to the ship. We heard later from the final group that came back, those who chose to take the walk through the preserve, that they nearly got stuck on the farm. There was so much rain it was washing out roads, and they needed to bring out two by fours to get the bus, and the people, out of the mud. Thankfully they did finally get out of the mud, and back to the ship.

We had a nice relaxed evening on The Flora and were treated to a slide show of pictures, taken by the naturalists, of our group, which they shared with each of us the next morning. Sunday morning The Flora headed back to Baltra Island, and we headed to the airport. It was time to say goodbye to the wonderful crew of The Flora. Of course, Captain Patricio who I have written about. But then the ship wouldn’t be the same without John Flynn, Hotel Director. From the moment we stepped on board, John was everywhere on the ship. He was always smiling and ready to answer any question someone had. He clearly kept things running superbly. He is an amazing guy. Then Boris Peralta, a Maître D. He is a really nice guy and it was incredible how many of our names he remembered, always greeting me by name. He was smiling at 6:00 am when I went for coffee, and again at the door to the dining room for dinner. Then there was Guillermo, one of the dining room staff. He was charming and also was always smiling. Always ready to bring a coffee, or anything else you needed. As I mentioned in a previous blog, there were nine naturalists on the Flora. They were all great. One who stood out to me, and answered any question I would throw at him, was Sebastian.  Clearly the competence and professionalism of the crew on The Flora, made all the difference to our great week on the ship.  

At the airport we all checked in to our chartered flight back to Quito. But there, some of the group, were heading to Peru, and on to Machu Picchu, while many of us would spend another day, or two, in Quito, before heading home. Those of us in Quito had dinner in the hotel, courtesy of Celebrity, and then on Monday, a group of us headed to the botanical gardens. It was a really nice relaxed day. But for me it was an early night, as a group of us were going to meet in the lobby of the hotel at 3:00 am to head to the airport for our 6:00 am flight to Miami, and connection to DC. That will be a separate column as I got bumped from 1st class on the Miami to DC flight, and am still debating the issue with American Airlines. So far, I have spoken to four people and got four different reasons for being bumped. Not a great look for American. But that small issue, couldn’t stop me from thinking, all-in-all, it was an amazing eleven days in Quito and the Galápagos. I got to spend time with good friends, and meet some wonderful new ones.  I would recommend a trip to the Galápagos to anyone. Darwin was right, it is an amazing place.

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Quito and the Galápagos on Celebrity Flora: blog #4

Turtles, iguanas and birds abound

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Celebrity Flora

After Floreana Island we continued our tour of the Galápagos with stops first on Isabela Island, and then then the next day we continued to spend some time on a different part of Isabela Island, and then went on to Fernadina Island. Then Friday it was South Plaza and Santa Cruz Islands.

Each day there continued to be morning and afternoon excursions off the Flora. Some involved walking, and some were taking a tender around the Island. The first day on Isabela Island we had the option of a long walk and a short tender ride, or just a tender ride in the morning. They warned everyone it was a very rocky trail. I passed on that, and took the tender ride where we saw some amazing sights. Turtles in the water, hundreds of Iguanas on the rocks, and loads of birds of all kinds. Then it was back to the Flora for lunch and relaxing. We had a great lunch outside on Deck 7 in the Ocean Grill and Bar.  In the afternoon we were given the option of a short walk and swim, or just a short walk. Basically, the same thing. It only mattered as to what time you got on the tender to head back to the ship.  I took the short walk and saw tortoises up close, more Iguanas, various birds, including flamingos. We are seeing many of the same animals on most of the Island walks, but there always seems to be a new one, something a little different, and it has been so much fun. I have some great pictures. 

Then it was time for the cocktail of the day; a Margarita, served in the Discovery Lounge on Deck 4. That is the place where we get briefings from naturalists each day, and the place we meet to leave for our excursions. Dinner was at the Seaside restaurant, the indoor dining room, also on deck 4.  Then a lazy evening. They did show a movie in the Discovery Lounge, Life on Fire, about the active volcanos in the Galapagos. There are still five alone on Isabela Island.  It was Valentines Day and to celebrate the pastry chef baked heart shaped cookies. They were really good. I know because I tasted one of each kind. While I haven’t been blown away by the food in general, I think the Executive chef is maybe trying too hard to be different; the pastry and dessert chefs have done a yeoman’s job. Could just be I like sugar.

The next day’s morning options were either a short or long walk, and I did the short one. In the afternoon there was only one option, a tender ride. Then back to the ship for another cocktail of the day. This one called the Yellow Warbler, served again in the Discovery Lounge.  Before dinner there were some games, including a trivia challenge. Then dinner outside in the Ocean Grill and Bar. To eat dinner outside you needed to make a reservation and Mike and Scott did that and ten of us ate together. The evening ended with the option of another movie; Charles Darwin and the Tree of Life. There are TVs in the suites with a number of options, and if you are into the news like I am, they had the usual Celebrity channels available; FOX, MSNBC, and the BBC.

Friday dawned clear and the options were a short or long walk. This was to be a dry landing which meant you could step onto shore without getting your shoes wet. But it was not an easy walk as you were on some volcanic rock, and uneven paths. I decided to take a sea day, and stayed on the ship. I used the time to do some writing, including starting this blog, interviewing the Captain, and to relax with some friends who decided to do the same. We had lunch in the indoor dining room where they served a meal which they called Asian inspired. Some sushi and other dishes. The afternoon choices for those who wanted to head out were; a long fast-paced fitness walk, or a short walk. We did pass Daphne Major Island, and a naturalist told us about it. We could see it from our balconies on the Port side, or from deck 7 or 8. I headed to deck 7.

Then for those of us traveling with Scott and Dustin of My Lux Cruise, we got a reminder of our transatlantic cruises. They hosted a 6:15pm cocktail party in their suite. They do this regularly on the longer cruises. They had a great spread and a bartender. It was fun. Then the crew of the Flora wanted to pretend they were a bigger ship, and announced a ‘silent disco’ party in the Discovery Lounge at 9:00pm.  I was surprised at the silent disco as it didn’t seem to fit the Galapagos. But to be fair, there were many who did enjoy it. 

Now our last full day in the Galapagos will be tomorrow, Saturday, and it will be different. I will share that in my final blog, so hope you will keep reading them.

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