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Art & Soul of the matter

New Jersey Ave. gay-helmed spot a culinary delight

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Art and Soul, Art Smith, dining, Top Chef, gay news, Washington Blade
Art and Soul, Art Smith, dining, Top Chef, gay news, Washington Blade

Chef Art Smith pays attention to culinary detail at Art & Soul. (Photo courtesy of Art & Soul)

Gay chef Art Smith has strong ties to D.C. — his father was a congressional page and his aunt was a Redskins weather girl.

Smith is a two-time contestant on Bravo’s “Top Chef Masters,” Oprah was one of his clients and he owns Art & Soul (415 New Jersey Ave. NW). Recently, Art & Soul unveiled a new fall menu, continued to serve “swing state cocktails” and hosted an election night watch party. With so much going on at this Capitol Hill eatery it seemed like the perfect time to pay it a visit.

Smith says a lot goes into planning a new menu.

“My chefs and I talk endlessly about what is fresh and in season and what guests will love,” he says.

The new menu at Art & Soul is the epitome of soul food elevated. Our waiter, Kevin, knew the new menu inside and out and steered us toward some of his favorite items. His suggestions did not disappoint.

We ordered a couple of starters including the soft scotch egg, which was divine; the delicate pumpkin ricotta dumplings; and the shrimp and grits which I didn’t have because I’m allergic to shrimp. The other four diners devoured them immediately though.

For dinner, I had the grilled natural rib eye with roasted mushrooms and sweet garlic marrow butter and red wine jus. If you’re looking for your red meat fix, this is it. If you’re in the mood for fish, try the crispy skin gulf pompano with gulf crab, raisins and brown butter. The Peking duck was cooked perfectly and enjoyed by all but one diner, who insisted he had a pet duck and could never eat his pet.

The red wine glazed beef short ribs were moist and tender and the mashed potatoes were so good I was warding off other diners with my fork. We ended the meal with almost the entire dessert menu on our table; however, the various Art & Soul Baby Cakes were the showstopper. The red velvet was moist and an original spin on the traditional red velvet cake.

This fall Art & Soul has also been featuring election-themed “Swing State Cocktails,” the result of a brainstorming session between Smith, mixologist Ronald Flores and restaurant manager Calvin Hines Junior. When designing these cocktails they, “researched each state because we wanted an element of each drink to be relevant to the state.” Cocktails like the Virginia — gin, viognier and ginger beer; the New Hampshire — filibuster bourbon, pumpkin puree and dolin rouge; and the ever-important Ohio — Wodka, peanut butter syrup and chocolate sauce were available through inauguration day. The most popular swing state cocktail (and Smith’s favorite) was the Pennsylvania — which features house-made peach-infused vodka that is displayed in a mason jar on the bar.

These cocktails were the centerpieces of the election night party. If you wore your “I Voted” sticker, you could enjoy two-for-one swing state cocktails. Plus, every time a swing state was called, patrons could enjoy that state cocktail for 50 percent off for 15 minutes. They didn’t have a Florida cocktail, so nobody had to wait until Friday to enjoy that at half price. The excitement in the restaurant was palpable. People were bustling to see the results and every time a state was called in favor of President Obama, cheers could be heard throughout the room. When asked about the historic wins on election night for LGBT individuals Smith said, “We are headed in the right direction … but it comes down to one thing: there is no room for hatred at the table.”

Art & Soul does not disappoint. Every dish is dynamic but still retains its soul food feel. The wait staff is exceptional and well versed. The “Swing State Cocktails” were creative and delightful; setting this watch party apart from others. Overall, this dinner was one of the best I have had in Washington, not only because the food was excellent, but also because of the impeccable service. Unfortunately, perfection does not come cheap so be prepared to spend a bit more for your meal at Art & Soul, but it will be worth it.

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Bisexual former umpire sues Major League Baseball for sexual harassment

Brandon Cooper claims female colleague sexually harassed him

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Arizona Complex League game in 2023. (YouTube screenshot)

A fired former umpire is suing Major League Baseball, claiming he was sexually harassed by a female umpire and discriminated against because of his gender and his sexual orientation. 

Brandon Cooper worked in the minor league Arizona Complex League last year, and according to the lawsuit he filed Wednesday in federal court in Manhattan, he identifies as bisexual. 

“I wanted my umpiring and ability to speak for itself and not to be labeled as ‘Brandon Cooper the bisexual umpire,’” he told Outsports. “I didn’t want to be labeled as something. It has been a passion of mine to simply make it to the Major Leagues.”

But that didn’t happen. Instead of being promoted, he was fired. His suit names MLB and an affiliated entity, PDL Blue, Inc., and alleges he had endured a hostile work environment and wrongful termination and/or retaliation because of gender and sexual orientation under New York State and New York City law.

“Historically the MLB has had a homogenous roster of umpires working in both the minor and major leagues,” Cooper claims in his suit. “Specifically, to date there has never been a woman who has worked in a (regular) season game played in the majors, and most umpires are still Caucasian men. To try to fix its gender and racial diversity issue, defendants have implemented an illegal diversity quota requiring that women be promoted regardless of merit.”

Cooper claims former umpire Ed Rapuano, now an umpire evaluator, and Darren Spagnardi, an umpire development supervisor, told him in January 2023 that MLB had a hiring quota, requiring that at least two women be among 10 new hires.

According to the suit, Cooper was assigned to spring training last year and was notified by the senior manager of umpire administration, Dusty Dellinger, that even though he received a high rating in June from former big league umpire Jim Reynolds, now an umpire supervisor, that women and minority candidates had to be hired first. 

Cooper claims that upon learning Cooper was bisexual, fellow umpire Gina Quartararo insulted him and fellow umpire Kevin Bruno by using homophobic slurs and crude remarks. At that time, Quartararo and Cooper worked on the same umpiring crew and being evaluated for possible promotion to the big leagues.

This season, Quartararo is working as an umpire in the Florida State League, one of nine women who are working as minor league umpires.

Cooper said he notified Dellinger, but instead of taking action against Quartararo, he said MLB ordered Cooper to undergo sensitivity training. According to his lawsuit, he was also accused of violating the minor league anti-discrimination and harassment policy.

Cooper’s suit says he met with MLB Senior Vice President of Diversity, Equity and Inclusion Billy Bean — who the Los Angeles Blade reported in December is battling cancer. 

The lawsuit says at that meeting, Bean told the umpire that Quartararo claimed she was the victim, as the only female umpire in the ACL. Cooper said he told Bean Quartararo regularly used homophobic slurs and at one point physically shoved him. He also claims that he has video evidence, texts and emails to prove his claim. 

But he said his complaints to Major League Baseball officials were ignored. His lawsuit said MLB passed him over for the playoffs and fired him in October. He said of the 26 umpires hired with Cooper, he was the only one let go.

Through a spokesperson, MLB declined to comment on pending litigation. Quartararo has also not publicly commented on the lawsuit.

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Eastern Shore chef named James Beard Finalist

Harley Peet creates inventive food in an inclusive space

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Chef Harley Peet works to support the LGBTQ community inside and outside of the kitchen.

In a small Eastern Shore town filled with boutiques, galleries, and the occasional cry of waterfowl from the Chesapeake, Chef Harley Peet is most at home. In his Viennese-inflected, Maryland-sourced fine-dining destination Bas Rouge, Peet draws from his Northern Michigan upbringing, Culinary Institute of America education, and identity as a gay man, for inspiration.

And recently, Peet was named a James Beard Finalist for Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic – the first “Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic” finalist representing the Eastern Shore.

Peet, after graduation from the Culinary Institute of America, took a position as sous chef at Tilghman Island Inn, not far from Bas Rouge. Falling in love with the Eastern Shore, he continued his passion for racing sailboats, boating, gardening, and fishing, and living his somewhat pastoral life as he opened Bas Rouge in 2016 as head chef, a restaurant part of the Bluepoint Hospitality group, which runs more than a dozen concepts in and around Easton, Md.  

Coming from a rural area and being gay, Peet knew he had his work cut out for him. He was always aware that the service and hospitality industry “can be down and dirty and rough.”

 Now as a leader in the kitchen, he aims to “set a good example, and treat people how I want to be treated. I also want to make sure if you’re at our establishment, I’m the first to stand up and say something.” 

The Bas Rouge cuisine, he says, is Contemporary European. “I’m inspired by old-world techniques of countries like Austria, Germany, and France, but I love putting a new spin on classic dishes and finding innovative ways to incorporate the bounty of local Chesapeake ingredients.”

His proudest dish: the humble-yet-elevated Wiener Schnitzel. “It is authentic to what one would expect to find in Vienna, down to the Lingonberries.” From his in-house bakery, Peet dries and grinds the housemade Kaiser-Semmel bread to use as the breadcrumbs.

Peet works to support the LGBTQ community inside and outside of the kitchen. “I love that our Bluepoint Hospitality team has created welcoming spaces where our patrons feel comfortable dining at each of our establishments. Our staff have a genuine respect for one another and work together free of judgment.” 

Representing Bluepoint, Peet has participated in events like Chefs for Equality with the Human Rights Campaign, advocating for LGBTQ rights.

At Bas Rouge, Peet brings together his passion for inclusion steeped in a sustainability ethic. He sees environmental stewardship as a way of life. Peet and his husband have lived and worked on their own organic farm for several years. Through research in Europe, he learned about international marine sourcing. Witnessing the impacts of overfishing, Peet considers his own role in promoting eco-friendly practices at Bas Rouge. To that end, he ensures responsible sourcing commitments through his purveyors, relationships that have helped create significant change in how people dine in Easton.

“I have built great relationships in the community and there’s nothing better than one of our long-standing purveyors stopping in with a cooler of fresh fish from the Chesapeake Bay. This goes especially for catching and plating the invasive blue catfish species, which helps control the species’ threat to the local ecosystem.

Through his kitchen exploits, Peet expressed a unique connection to another gay icon in a rural fine-dining restaurant: Patrick O’Connell, of three Michelin starred Inn at Little Washington. In fact, Peet’s husband helped design some of O’Connell’s kitchen spaces. They’ve both been able to navigate treacherous restaurant-industry waters, and have come out triumphant and celebrated. Of O’Connell, Peet says that he “sees [his restaurants] as canvas, all artistry, he sees this as every night is a show.” But at the same time, his “judgment-free space makes him a role model.”

Being in Easton itself is not without challenges. Sourcing is a challenge, having to either fly or ship in ingredients, whereas urban restaurants have the benefit of trucking, he says. The small town “is romantic and charming,” but logistics are difficult – one of the reasons that Peet ensures his team is diverse, building in different viewpoints, and also “making things a hell of a lot more fun.”

Reflecting on challenges and finding (and creating) space on the Eastern Shore, Peet confirmed how important it was to surround himself with people who set a good example, and “if you don’t like the way something is going … move on.”

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PHOTOS: Night of Champions

Team DC holds annual awards gala

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Team DC President Miguel Ayala speaks at the 2024 Night of Champions Awards on Saturday. (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)

Team DC, the umbrella organization for LGBTQ-friendly sports teams and leagues in the D.C. area, held its annual Night of Champions Awards Gala on Saturday, April 20 at the Hilton National Mall. The organization gave out scholarships to area LGBTQ student athletes as well as awards to the Different Drummers, Kelly Laczko of Duplex Diner, Stacy Smith of the Edmund Burke School, Bryan Frank of Triout, JC Adams of DCG Basketball and the DC Gay Flag Football League.

(Washington Blade photos by Michael Key)

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