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Flavors of 14th

Waffles, oysters, pizza, tapas and more — new dining spots offer many options

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Ted's Bulletin, dining, 14th Street, gay news, Washington Blade
Ted's Bulletin, dining, 14th Street, gay news, Washington Blade

The playful menu at Ted’s Bulletin is reminiscent of an old-school dining experience. (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)

The restaurant business is a fast moving one. Restaurants open and close at the blink of an eye. However, the rapid pace of restaurants opening on 14th Street is astonishing. Here’s a preview/review of what is hot on the street, some personal favorites and some places I would avoid.

B Too (1324 14th Street NW): If you’re looking for the full Belgian experience with classics reinterpreted by Chef Bart Vandalay, then B Too is the place to try. Refreshed versions of Belgian dishes are all over Vandalay’s menu including waffles topped with sausage and pastries stuffed with potatoes and bacon. This restaurant pays homage to Belgian beer with more than 150 bottles varieties. Be prepared to pay a few extra bucks, as the price-point is a bit high.

Drafting Table (1529 14th Street NW): When The Drafting Table opened last year, I wasn’t overly impressed by dinner, but I enjoyed the brunch menu. While I haven’t returned, this restaurant still remains a favorite neighborhood pub.

Etto (1541 14th Street NW): Peter Pastan and Amy Morgan of 2 Amys and Ted Curtz and David Rasnar of Garden District (formerly The Standard) bring this 42-seat Italian eatery to Logan Circle. Chef Cagla Onal Urel serves up pizzas, salads and a few other specialties. Washington Post Reviewer Tom Sietsema gave Etto three stars; I however was not as impressed.

 

Le Diplomate, dining, food, French cuisine, gay news, Washington Blade

Le Diplomate (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)

Le Diplomate (1601 14th Street NW): Right across Q Street from Etto is my favorite new dining establishment in the neighborhood. After reviewing Le Diplomate as they opened, I have returned numerous times, and every time I have had excellent food and fantastic service. I even brought my very picky father to Le Diplomate, and to my surprise, he was blown away by every bite. If you dine at Le Diplomate and are unsure of what to eat, I recommend my current favorite dish the sea scallops, and for dessert, the absolutely divine crème brulee.

Ghibellina (1610 14th Street NW): This restaurant is an Italian-influenced gastro pub. The wood oven-fired pizzas are delectable, smoky and blisteringly hot. My favorite thing is that you get to cut your own pizza with scissors; pizza shears to be exact. Clearly, I am easily amused.

Pearl Dive (1612 14th Street NW): When Pearl Dive Oyster Palace opened in 2011, Jeff and Barbara Black were trailblazers of sorts. Now this oyster bar is always packed and in the center of all the action on 14th Street. Even if you aren’t a fan of oysters, you can just have a drink at Blackjack, the bar upstairs.

Barcelona (1622 14th Street NW): It’s not open yet, but you may have seen the beautiful patio that is in the former BodySmith space. This is soon to be a tapas bar named Barcelona. I wonder how Barcelona will do against already established Estadio right down the block? I think a head-to-head battle may be in the works (or a column that pits the two against each other).

M Café Bar (1634 14th Street NW): The newest of the Italian restaurants to hit the street calls itself a “contemporary Italian restaurant.” To me, the space is reminiscent of a hotel lobby and the food is slightly above average. If you’re craving contemporary Italian food, I would recommend Posto over M Café Bar.

Bar di Bari (1401 R Street NW): On the corner of 14 and R Streets is a new coffee and wine bar called Bar di Bari. Considering that I am sitting outside at this location writing this column, I would say it’s a great place to linger, enjoy a coffee, a light snack or a glass of wine. The people watching is great and the staff is friendly. They even encourage you to hang out and do some work, exactly what owner Aaron Gordon (who also owns The Drafting Table) wants.

Doi Moi (1800 14th Street NW): Approximately three weeks ago Mark Kuller and Haidar Karoum’s new restaurant Doi Moi opened, featuring southeast Asian cuisine. While I haven’t yet had the pleasure of dining here, the early word from EaterDC is positive with people praising the food, the atmosphere and the chic unmarked basement bar.

Ted’s Bulletin (1818 14th Street NW): Homemade pop tarts, adult milk shakes, awesome grilled cheese (ask for it with Mac and Cheese in it) and great chili, what more could you ask for? I’m a huge fan of all the fare at Ted’s and there’s a rumor going around that I was spotted dining at Ted’s three times in one weekend.

Matchbox (1901 14th Street NW): If you want more than what is offered at Ted’s Bulletin, then head across the street to sister restaurant, Matchbox. Pizzas and mini burgers are the specialty at Matchbox (my favorite pizza is the Matchbox Meat) but if you aren’t in the mood for those items then you can try a steak, grilled salmon or scallops. I love sitting at the back pizza bar, watching the nimble hands of the chefs’ prep the pizza.

Diego’s (2100 14th Street NW) This Tex-Mex restaurant, from the owners of Dupont Italian Kitchen, was opened for approximately two weeks before the owners let Chef Jessica Sidman and the rest of the staff go and closed the doors. Owner Michael Askarinam was not satisfied with the food or service. Diego’s is supposed to open soon with a new chef and new staff.

Kapnos (2201 14th Street NW): Mike Isabella’s newest restaurant Kapnos did not impress me on my first visit, although the adjoining sandwich shop G was enjoyable.

Kapnos, Mike Isabella, dining, Top Chef, gay news, Washington Blade, Briam

Briam from Kapnos (Photo by Greg Powers)

The restaurant boom is in full swing on 14th Street and this is just a sampling of what these restaurants have to offer. I am lucky enough to live right by this bustling street and I can enjoy an entire day starting with brunch at Le Diplomate, some shopping at Universal Gear or Miss Pixies, grab a glass of wine and cheese plate at Bar did Bari, and then dinner at Doi Moi. If you don’t live on the street, I recommend picking a spot that intrigues you and enjoy a nice meal. 14th Street is definitely the place to eat right now.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Dining

Union Market’s Last Call Bar a welcoming oasis for all

Mixologist Britt Weaver expresses her pride and identity every day

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Britt Weaver is head mixologist at Last Call Bar.

Amid the development of the fast-growing Union Market district, spanning dozens of eateries (including a duo of Michelin stars), embracing and inclusive spaces are tough to come by. Last Call Bar is one of those — and head mixologist and proud member of the LGBTQ community Britt Weaver is making sure this divey spot stays that way.

While buzzy restaurants take the spotlight, Weaver and Last Call are embracing the different.

“I’ve made it a personal mission to ensure that the bar continues to be a place where everyone feels welcomed and accepted,” she says. “Being behind the bar, I see a lot of people — I try to make sure every guest feels safe, seen, and cared for when they visit.”

Last Call exudes a laid-back spirit, aiming to fill that neighborhood-style gap that might be missing among prix-fixe tasting menus and shiny boutiques. Eccentric décor that includes painted lockers, old posters hung from the ceiling, artfully peeling paint, and arcade games feeds into the homey spirit. Patrons are welcome to bring in stickers and slap them on the bar, adding even more personality to the space.

Launched in 2019 serving sub-$10 drinks and having survived the pandemic, Last Call still maintains an unconventional vibe that extends to the menu. It’s one of the few bars that serves flavor-changing Jello shots, with the option to add nostalgia-inducing pop rocks; as well as an hour-long “teeny tiny ‘tini hour” for those who want a taste but not an entire glassful of liquor. Keeping things cool: koozies are also for sale. The food menu’s grown since opening, with sandwiches in addition to bags of chips and shareable dips.

Last Call welcomed Weaver in 2023. While working as a bartender during grad school, Weaver was drawn to the excitement of the bar scene. After COVID, she says, she leaned into her career in the hospitality industry.

In the freewheeling, demanding bartending industry, Weaver has fought to be seen.

“Previous jobs and ownership teams have urged me to conceal my identity, but that is something I refuse to do. It is so incredibly important for me to be able to express my pride and identity every day,” she says.

Last Call has a pedigree from its ally owner Gina Chersevani, who also runs decade-old Buffalo and Bergen stall inside Union Market and a sister Buffalo and Bergen on Capitol Hill. Chersevani is deeply rooted in the D.C. hospitality industry, which Weaver says has a culture that celebrates creativity and expression.

Chersevani ensures that “I’ve been celebrated and encouraged to express my identity,” says Weaver. “She has given me the freedom to cultivate a space that is welcoming of the LGBTQ+ community while also still remaining true to the Last Call spirit.” This year, during Pride month, Chersevani launched a Pride punch card, in which patrons who visited all of her spots won free drinks.

Weaver further notes that being proud of her identity and committing to it behind the bar and in the fast-paced service industry “opens more space for other LGBTQ+ industry members to feel safe to express their own identities. Visibility is so critical in making safe spaces for the queer community.”

Looking forward, Weaver remains steadfast in her commitment to learning and growing in the space and in D.C. She promises that Last Call Bar has plenty of events and programming, new cocktail menus, and a welcoming community spirit.

To celebrate the summer, Weaver offered a cocktail recipe to have at home with friends: Strawberry Piña Colada.

Ingredients

· 2 ounces silver rum

· 1 ounce strawberry purée

· 1 ounce fresh pineapple juice

· 1 ounce coconut milk

· .5 ounce lime juice

Combine all ingredients, then shake. Serve in a Collins glass, over crushed ice, and

garnish as desired.

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Dining

RAMMYs honors restaurant industry professionals

A busy summer for D.C.’s dining scene

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D.C.’s Summer Restaurant Week runs from Monday, Aug. 12, through Sunday, Aug. 18.

Representing the ever-growing, increasingly recognized restaurant industry in Washington, D.C., the Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington (RAMW) held its first-ever RAMMYs Honors Event on June 18 in the lower level of the Watergate Hotel. Restaurant and hospitality industry professionals, leaders, and community members gathered to celebrate RAMMY special distinctions. 

The event took place as an extension of the traditional RAMMY Awards Gala, which honors “the exceptional ability and accomplishments” of the region’s restaurants and foodservice community. The 42nd Annual RAMMY Awards Gala will take place on Sunday, July 21, at the Walter E. Washington Convention Center.

The RAMMYs Honors event kicked off with a cocktail hour, and was hosted by author, seasoned democratic strategist, and co-host of MSNBC’s The Weekend, Symone Sanders Townsend.

While there were several awards presented, this inaugural event only held onto one announcement until the event itself: the RAMMYS Joan Hisaoka Allied Member of the Year Winner, presented to an associate member who best exemplifies commitment to and support of RAMW. This year, the Carlos Rosario International Public Charter School won, a school supporting adult immigrants that includes a culinary arts program.

Other honors that evening included the Duke Zeibert Capital Achievement Award Winner, which was given to Greater Washington Partnership CEO Kathy E. Hollinger “for her excellence and community leadership, increasing the profile and success of the metropolitan Washington foodservice community.” Prior to joining the Partnership, Hollinger was president and CEO of RAMW. Hollinger sat for a wide-ranging interview on stage with Sanders Townsend, who is married to Shawn Townsend current president and CEO of the RAMW. 

Finally, the 2024 Honorary Milestone RAMMY Award recipients were also honored, celebrating a significant number of years serving locals and visitors in Metropolitan Washington: The Dubliner (50 years), Black’s Bar & Kitchen (25 years), Equinox on 19th (25 years), KAZ Sushi Bistro (25 years), Marcel’s (25 years), and Passage to India (25 years).

As the restaurant industry grows in the city, for the first-time, the RAMMYS Honors event allowed for a unique opportunity to highlight a range of special distinctions determined by RAMW’s executive committee. Instead of being public-facing, the Honors were dedicated to industry professionals, to give extra attention and the spotlight to those that often get overlooked at the main RAMMYs Gala. These awards were chosen by RAMW’s executive committee whereas the other awards, given at The RAMMYS, are chosen by both the public and an anonymous panel of judges.

Summer, traditionally a slower time for the restaurant industry, means that RAMW is pulling out the stops for diners to try out new and favorite spots across the area.

First, finalists for Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington’s 2024 Wine Program of the Year will take part in promotions planned for the second week of July. From Monday, July 8, through Sunday, July 14, the region’s top wine programs will showcase their outstanding varietals and pours. The 2024 Wine Program of the Year Finalists include: Apero (Dupont Circle), Era (Mt. Ranier), Irregardless (H Street), Lulu’s Wine Garden (Shaw), and St. Anselm (Union Market). Each will have discounts, tasting parties, special blends, flights, and other ways to savor the area’s top wines.

Finally, the season also sees the return of Summer Restaurant Week, celebrating the region’s restaurant industry from Monday, Aug. 12, through Sunday, Aug. 18. Participating restaurants will offer multi-course brunch and lunch menus with updated tiered pricing for $25 or $35 per person, and multi-course dinner menus for $40, $55, or $65 per person for on-premises dining. Many restaurants will also offer cocktail, wine, and non-alcoholic pairings.

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Dining

Behind the bar with Moon Rabbit’s Thi Nguyen

Cocktails work in harmony with thoughtfully executed Vietnamese dishes

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Moon Rabbit’s Thi Nguyen

Thi Nguyen’s hands move purposely behind the bar, her all-business, cobalt blue nails gleaming under the warm lighting of recently relocated – and highly celebrated – Moon Rabbit. A dash of simple syrup infused with pandan – a shrub native to Southeast Asia with vanilla-scented leaves – moves deftly in her hands to lightly spice a cocktail that will soon receive another kick from ginger bitters.

Nguyen, Moon Rabbit’s celebrated bar manager, cannot be accused of holding back flavors from her drinks. Nor can she hold back her identity and her journey. Her journey from Saigon to Maryland to California and finally to D.C., but also her journey as a proudly out lesbian, unafraid to bring her whole self to all her pours.

Boundaries, borders, conventions: these matter little to Nguyen, who left several homes to finally find herself where she’s most comfortable, and where she acts as a leader and mentor for others to do the same. Just as she doesn’t hide her identity, she also doesn’t hide that her cocktails complement Moon Rabbit’s vibrant, contemporary Vietnamese cuisine. Owner/chef Kevin Tien pays tribute to his heritage as a first-generation Asian American, using Moon Rabbit as a platform for expressing his love for Vietnamese culture and food through a determinedly modern lens.

Her cocktails, then, work in harmony with thoughtfully executed dishes like chewy rice cakes under a tofu crumble and cured egg, deconstructed crab Rangoon, and wagyu-stuffed perilla leaves brightened by fermented honey.

Sitting with the chefs and acclaimed owner Kevin Tien, “we begin by exploring cookbooks together,” in a collaborative process, “to find inspiration and potential flavor combinations. It involves a lot of research and development, trial and error, experimentation, and technique.”

“And while this sometimes leads to failures, it ultimately helps us discover the perfect pairings.”

Her menu arrives without flavor hesitations. Cocktail names are given in both English and Vietnamese (as are the dishes), a signal that she is asking diners and drinkers to join her and trust her as unapologetic about her Vietnamese craft. 

The Hết Nước Chấm (Out of Dipping Sauce) drink is composed of vodka, passionfruit liqueur, a squeeze of lemon, and a simple syrup based on nước chấm– also known as fish sauce. While nodding to the popularity of the savory martini, this cocktail also reflects the ubiquity of fish sauce on the Moon Rabbit menu and across Southeast Asia.

Other ingredients? Sesame oil, coconut milk, palm syrup, and chrysanthemum all show up in various drinks, alcoholic or otherwise. She also creates cocktails that highlight and celebrate gay icons, drawing inspiration not just from the menu and research but also LGBTQ history and culture.

This pride in her work is reflected in the pride in her identity.

“Being part of the LGBTQ community has taught me the importance of authenticity, resilience, and inclusivity. I am unapologetic about who I am and show up at work proud of my identity, which helps create a space where others feel comfortable and supported.”

Tien, Nguyen, and his staff are highly intentional in staffing. “This commitment to inclusivity is reflected in our hiring practices; we intentionally build a diverse bar team that includes members of the LGBTQ community,” she says.

Just like her physical journey, arriving in this place of leadership and comfort took a circuitous path. In the face of microaggressions and ignorance, comments and assumptions, lack of understanding and respect, she has been able to “strengthen my resolve to create an inclusive and supportive environment.” She ensures that she’s active in events that raise funds for LGBTQ non-profits around the DMV area, including SYMAL, CCI Health Services, and KhushDC.

 “I hope to encourage other LGBTQ individuals to pursue careers in hospitality and to advocate for greater inclusivity and acceptance in their own workplaces.”

Moon Rabbit, formerly located at the InterContinental Hotel on the Wharf, closed with a shock last year (its closure took place among a unionization drive by the hotel’s staff that the hotel had opposed). Debuting in its new location in Penn Quarter in January, Moon Rabbit quickly retook its place as a top dining destination: the restaurant was recently added to the Michelin guide. In June, Nguyen herself was named one of the best new bartenders in 2024 by Punch magazine. As Pride month closes out, Nguyen remains as dedicated to her craft – and her advocacy – as ever.

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