Dining
You know what Dupont needed? A Nordic restaurant
Business rebounding at Mikko amid COVID restrictions
Editorās note: This is the second in an occasional series on how local small businesses are coping in the time of COVID.
Thereās a Danish wordĀ āhygge,ā pronounced hue-guh, itās sort of a concept meant to describe the feeling you get whether alone or with friends, at home or out, that the moment is cozy, charming, or just special.
And you canāt really miss Mikko, the Nordic restaurant on the corner of 17th and R streets in the old gayborhood, a special place to many D.C. gays. Former chef to the Finnish embassy, a position he held for more than a decade, Mikko Kosonen opened Mikko almost two years ago. I sat down recently to chat with Mikko about all things Black Lives Matter, COVID, gay, and Nordic.Ā
Just passing by, youāre immediately drawn to the color scheme. Reds, blues, whites, some yellow ā all the colors of Nordic flags are there. Iām not a restaurant critic to be sure, but the food was fresh and fantastic, served by an upbeat and energetic staff. Mikko treated me to a salmon and poached egg sandwich followed by pancakes with a raspberry sauce. Each bite held little pieces of some Nordic heaven. The inside shop is full of Nordic products, from sodas to mustards to mints and candies. I bought a bag of childrenās candy known as āDracula Pillersā or Dracula Pills.
Like any restaurant in the area, COVID hit his interests hard. In less than a week, he saw eight months of catering events cancelled. To make it work, he pivoted toward to-go meals and grocery items. āI never thought Iād be 50 years old and selling eggs. But here we are.ā A government pandemic relief loan helped. He cut hours, but Mikko took pride in telling me that no one on his staff was laid off.Ā
Slowly but steadily, catering requests are coming back. Thatās the bread and butter of the business, if you will. Given his unique taste-of-home cooking, you can imagine Mikko is quite popular with the World Bank, the IMF, and a whole host of embassies. While I was sitting with Mikko, he was fielding text messages from the Austrian ambassador. Asked about the prospect of further opening up of city businesses, āknock on the vooodā, Mikko said in a charming accent.
Given the Black Lives Matter movement, Mikko is aware of his privilege as a gay white male from a northern European country, you know, the kind of immigrant President Trump openly prefers versus those from āshithole countriesā as Trump called them. Nevertheless he does have a perspective, gesturing toward the work going on at the now shuttered Cobalt, to the dry cleaners on the corner, “none of this would be possible without immigrants.ā An important reminder to be sure.
Stopping by on a recent Saturday, every table was full, despite being a rather muggy D.C. July morning. When it comes to fitting in, Mikko was proud to be on 17th Street, and proud to show off his new outdoor dining tables, again with the Nordic colors and depictions of classic Finnish cartoon characters. He also had nothing but praise for his ANC commissioner Randy Downs. It was with his help that Mikko was able to secure more outdoor seating by converting the parking area out front, something he very much wants to retain post-pandemic. I think everyone would like that.
Iāve always preferred Dupontās 17th Street to the more bustling 14th Street; 17th Street, that stretch of the old gayborhood between R and P street, is tree-lined, quaint, and just calmer. And the businesses, bars, and restaurants that occupy that stretch, like Annieās or Florianaās, just seem more authentic than their corporate counterparts a few blocks away. Mikko was happy to bring a little gay back to Dupont. He called his restaurant and 17th Street, āa perfect match for each other.ā And why not ā theyāre both authentic, and charming. And just, well,Ā hygge.Ā
Dining
Union Marketās Last Call Bar a welcoming oasis for all
Mixologist Britt Weaver expresses her pride and identity every day
Amid the development of the fast-growing Union Market district, spanning dozens of eateries (including a duo of Michelin stars), embracing and inclusive spaces are tough to come by. Last Call Bar is one of those ā and head mixologist and proud member of the LGBTQ community Britt Weaver is making sure this divey spot stays that way.
While buzzy restaurants take the spotlight, Weaver and Last Call are embracing the different.
āIāve made it a personal mission to ensure that the bar continues to be a place where everyone feels welcomed and accepted,ā she says. āBeing behind the bar, I see a lot of people ā I try to make sure every guest feels safe, seen, and cared for when they visit.ā
Last Call exudes a laid-back spirit, aiming to fill that neighborhood-style gap that might be missing among prix-fixe tasting menus and shiny boutiques. Eccentric dƩcor that includes painted lockers, old posters hung from the ceiling, artfully peeling paint, and arcade games feeds into the homey spirit. Patrons are welcome to bring in stickers and slap them on the bar, adding even more personality to the space.
Launched in 2019 serving sub-$10 drinks and having survived the pandemic, Last Call still maintains an unconventional vibe that extends to the menu. Itās one of the few bars that serves flavor-changing Jello shots, with the option to add nostalgia-inducing pop rocks; as well as an hour-long āteeny tiny ātini hourā for those who want a taste but not an entire glassful of liquor. Keeping things cool: koozies are also for sale. The food menuās grown since opening, with sandwiches in addition to bags of chips and shareable dips.
Last Call welcomed Weaver in 2023. While working as a bartender during grad school, Weaver was drawn to the excitement of the bar scene. After COVID, she says, she leaned into her career in the hospitality industry.
In the freewheeling, demanding bartending industry, Weaver has fought to be seen.
āPrevious jobs and ownership teams have urged me to conceal my identity, but that is something I refuse to do. It is so incredibly important for me to be able to express my pride and identity every day,ā she says.
Last Call has a pedigree from its ally owner Gina Chersevani, who also runs decade-old Buffalo and Bergen stall inside Union Market and a sister Buffalo and Bergen on Capitol Hill. Chersevani is deeply rooted in the D.C. hospitality industry, which Weaver says has a culture that celebrates creativity and expression.
Chersevani ensures that āIāve been celebrated and encouraged to express my identity,ā says Weaver. āShe has given me the freedom to cultivate a space that is welcoming of the LGBTQ+ community while also still remaining true to the Last Call spirit.ā This year, during Pride month, Chersevani launched a Pride punch card, in which patrons who visited all of her spots won free drinks.
Weaver further notes that being proud of her identity and committing to it behind the bar and in the fast-paced service industry āopens more space for other LGBTQ+ industry members to feel safe to express their own identities. Visibility is so critical in making safe spaces for the queer community.ā
Looking forward, Weaver remains steadfast in her commitment to learning and growing in the space and in D.C. She promises that Last Call Bar has plenty of events and programming, new cocktail menus, and a welcoming community spirit.
To celebrate the summer, Weaver offered a cocktail recipe to have at home with friends: Strawberry PiƱa Colada.
Ingredients
Ā· 2 ounces silver rum
Ā· 1 ounce strawberry purĆ©e
Ā· 1 ounce fresh pineapple juice
Ā· 1 ounce coconut milk
Ā· .5 ounce lime juice
Combine all ingredients, then shake. Serve in a Collins glass, over crushed ice, and
garnish as desired.
Representing the ever-growing, increasingly recognized restaurant industry in Washington, D.C., the Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington (RAMW) held its first-ever RAMMYs Honors Event on June 18 in the lower level of the Watergate Hotel. Restaurant and hospitality industry professionals, leaders, and community members gathered to celebrate RAMMY special distinctions.
The event took place as an extension of the traditional RAMMY Awards Gala, which honors āthe exceptional ability and accomplishmentsā of the regionās restaurants and foodservice community. The 42nd Annual RAMMY Awards Gala will take place on Sunday, July 21, at the Walter E. Washington Convention Center.
The RAMMYs Honors event kicked off with a cocktail hour, and was hosted by author, seasoned democratic strategist, and co-host of MSNBCās The Weekend, Symone Sanders Townsend.
While there were several awards presented, this inaugural event only held onto one announcement until the event itself: the RAMMYS Joan Hisaoka Allied Member of the Year Winner, presented to an associate member who best exemplifies commitment to and support of RAMW. This year, the Carlos Rosario International Public Charter School won, a school supporting adult immigrants that includes a culinary arts program.
Other honors that evening included the Duke Zeibert Capital Achievement Award Winner, which was given to Greater Washington Partnership CEO Kathy E. Hollinger āfor her excellence and community leadership, increasing the profile and success of the metropolitan Washington foodservice community.ā Prior to joining the Partnership, Hollinger was president and CEO of RAMW. Hollinger sat for a wide-ranging interview on stage with Sanders Townsend, who is married to Shawn Townsend current president and CEO of the RAMW.Ā
Finally, the 2024 Honorary Milestone RAMMY Award recipients were also honored, celebrating a significant number of years serving locals and visitors in Metropolitan Washington: The Dubliner (50 years), Blackās Bar & Kitchen (25 years), Equinox on 19th (25 years), KAZ Sushi Bistro (25 years), Marcelās (25 years), and Passage to India (25 years).
As the restaurant industry grows in the city, for the first-time, the RAMMYS Honors event allowed for a unique opportunity to highlight a range of special distinctions determined by RAMW’s executive committee. Instead of being public-facing, the Honors were dedicated to industry professionals, to give extra attention and the spotlight to those that often get overlooked at the main RAMMYs Gala. These awards were chosen by RAMW’s executive committee whereas the other awards, given at The RAMMYS, are chosen by both the public and an anonymous panel of judges.
Summer, traditionally a slower time for the restaurant industry, means that RAMW is pulling out the stops for diners to try out new and favorite spots across the area.
First, finalists for Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washingtonās 2024 Wine Program of the Year will take part in promotions planned for the second week of July. From Monday, July 8, through Sunday, July 14, the regionās top wine programs will showcase their outstanding varietals and pours. The 2024 Wine Program of the Year Finalists include: Apero (Dupont Circle), Era (Mt. Ranier), Irregardless (H Street), Luluās Wine Garden (Shaw), and St. Anselm (Union Market). Each will have discounts, tasting parties, special blends, flights, and other ways to savor the areaās top wines.
Finally, the season also sees the return of Summer Restaurant Week, celebrating the region’s restaurant industry from Monday, Aug. 12, through Sunday, Aug. 18. Participating restaurants will offer multi-course brunch and lunch menus with updated tiered pricing for $25 or $35 per person, and multi-course dinner menus for $40, $55, or $65 per person for on-premises dining. Many restaurants will also offer cocktail, wine, and non-alcoholic pairings.
Dining
Behind the bar with Moon Rabbitās Thi Nguyen
Cocktails work in harmony with thoughtfully executed Vietnamese dishes
Thi Nguyenās hands move purposely behind the bar, her all-business, cobalt blue nails gleaming under the warm lighting of recently relocated ā and highly celebrated ā Moon Rabbit. A dash of simple syrup infused with pandan ā a shrub native to Southeast Asia with vanilla-scented leaves ā moves deftly in her hands to lightly spice a cocktail that will soon receive another kick from ginger bitters.
Nguyen, Moon Rabbitās celebrated bar manager, cannot be accused of holding back flavors from her drinks. Nor can she hold back her identity and her journey. Her journey from Saigon to Maryland to California and finally to D.C., but also her journey as a proudly out lesbian, unafraid to bring her whole self to all her pours.
Boundaries, borders, conventions: these matter little to Nguyen, who left several homes to finally find herself where sheās most comfortable, and where she acts as a leader and mentor for others to do the same. Just as she doesnāt hide her identity, she also doesnāt hide that her cocktails complement Moon Rabbitās vibrant, contemporary Vietnamese cuisine. Owner/chef Kevin Tien pays tribute to his heritage as a first-generation Asian American, using Moon Rabbit as a platform for expressing his love for Vietnamese culture and food through a determinedly modern lens.
Her cocktails, then, work in harmony with thoughtfully executed dishes like chewy rice cakes under a tofu crumble and cured egg, deconstructed crab Rangoon, and wagyu-stuffed perilla leaves brightened by fermented honey.
Sitting with the chefs and acclaimed owner Kevin Tien, āwe begin by exploring cookbooks together,ā in a collaborative process, āto find inspiration and potential flavor combinations. It involves a lot of research and development, trial and error, experimentation, and technique.ā
āAnd while this sometimes leads to failures, it ultimately helps us discover the perfect pairings.ā
Her menu arrives without flavor hesitations. Cocktail names are given in both English and Vietnamese (as are the dishes), a signal that she is asking diners and drinkers to join her and trust her as unapologetic about her Vietnamese craft.
The Hįŗæt NĘ°į»c Chįŗ„m (Out of Dipping Sauce) drink is composed of vodka, passionfruit liqueur, a squeeze of lemon, and a simple syrup based on nĘ°į»c chįŗ„mā also known as fish sauce. While nodding to the popularity of the savory martini, this cocktail also reflects the ubiquity of fish sauce on the Moon Rabbit menu and across Southeast Asia.
Other ingredients? Sesame oil, coconut milk, palm syrup, and chrysanthemum all show up in various drinks, alcoholic or otherwise. She also creates cocktails that highlight and celebrate gay icons, drawing inspiration not just from the menu and research but also LGBTQ history and culture.
This pride in her work is reflected in the pride in her identity.
āBeing part of the LGBTQ community has taught me the importance of authenticity, resilience, and inclusivity. I am unapologetic about who I am and show up at work proud of my identity, which helps create a space where others feel comfortable and supported.ā
Tien, Nguyen, and his staff are highly intentional in staffing. āThis commitment to inclusivity is reflected in our hiring practices; we intentionally build a diverse bar team that includes members of the LGBTQ community,ā she says.
Just like her physical journey, arriving in this place of leadership and comfort took a circuitous path. In the face of microaggressions and ignorance, comments and assumptions, lack of understanding and respect, she has been able to āstrengthen my resolve to create an inclusive and supportive environment.ā She ensures that sheās active in events that raise funds for LGBTQ non-profits around the DMV area, including SYMAL, CCI Health Services, and KhushDC.
āI hope to encourage other LGBTQ individuals to pursue careers in hospitality and to advocate for greater inclusivity and acceptance in their own workplaces.ā
Moon Rabbit, formerly located at the InterContinental Hotel on the Wharf, closed with a shock last year (its closure took place among a unionization drive by the hotelās staff that the hotel had opposed). Debuting in its new location in Penn Quarter in January, Moon Rabbit quickly retook its place as a top dining destination: the restaurant was recently added to the Michelin guide. In June, Nguyen herself was named one of the best new bartenders in 2024 by Punch magazine. As Pride month closes out, Nguyen remains as dedicated to her craft ā and her advocacy ā as ever.