Arts & Entertainment

‘Lots of tacos and strong margaritas’

‘Top Chef’ finalist brings bold flair to Bandolero

Published

12 years ago

July 12, 2012

Jonathan Howard

Mike Isabella of Bandolero, one of the hot new must-try D.C. restaurants. (Submitted photo by Greg Powers)

Mike Isabella’s idea of a perfect dinner out has three essential components — a welcome feel, cocktail in hand and delicious food at the ready.

Those are the elements the “Top Chef All Stars” runner-up is incorporating at his new restaurant Bandolero (3241 M Street, N.W.) where he likes to “have fun with his food by changing flavors and textures” in the traditional Mexican dishes he offers up with new twists.

A reservation for eight is difficult to get at Bandolero, but in my opinion it’s the perfect number to experience all Bandolero has to offer. We walked in, the hostess greeted us warmly, brought us to the remainder of our party, and we were seated. Our waiter approached, explained the small plates concept, and took our drink orders. In moments drinks were being passed around the table. Throughout the evening the exceptional staff including general manager, James Horn, served us and others attentively but not intrusively. Our glasses were always full, we never searched for a plate and there was always food on the table.

When opening Bandolero, Isabella wanted two things: “lots of tacos and strong margaritas.” Drinks by head mixologist, Sam Babcock, are not only strong but delicious renditions of classics. Each drink is perfectly balanced. The basic margarita falls short on flavor, but don’t waste time on the basic when standouts like the frozen prickly pear margarita exist; it’s Isabella’s favorite. Other well-crafted drinks include the El Dorado with a five-spice syrup that adds a deep warmth to the cocktail, the fresh Jesus Malverde has cucumber, lime, agave and pork barrel hellfire bitters, and the Casa En Fuego was a mouth full of rich fire from a habanero-infused tequila.

The moment the first dish arrived, flavors began exploding in our mouths. The guacamole is tangy and fresh, and not only does Bandolero succeed with its guacamole but it also serves up an exquisite dip called sikil pak composed of pumpkin seeds, jalapenos and orange. After the dips, we moved on to taquitos and tostadas, a course we quickly dubbed “Mexican sushi.” These fresh raw bites were perfect combinations of unexpected flavors. The blue crab with coconut and red chili was too good to pass up, even though I’m sensitive to shellfish. The tuna with ginger and sweet potato as well as the snapper with charred mango and jicama were the two overall favorites at the table.

Then it was time for tacos. We couldn’t wait to try the crispy mahi mahi with chipotle, avocado and lime but we ended up being blown away by the complexity of flavors in the suckling pig tacos with apple and habanero mustard. Each bite of this taco with its fresh ingredients was absolute perfection. The BBQ chicken taco however, was dry and bland.

We started getting full, but couldn’t resist ordering a few more items. I had been eying the nachos with crispy goat and goat cheese and they turned out to be amazing. Also, the queso fundido with duck confit, manchego and egg was delectable. The sweet plantains were almost as good as my Cuban grandmother’s. After such fantastic courses, we couldn’t possibly eat anything else, at least until dessert. We ordered the sopapillas — fried donuts with dulce de leche, the besitos de coco (little coconut cookies) and the spicy chocolate ice cream. Before we knew it the plates were scraped clean.

As I look back at the meal I realize that Bandolero gets high marks with almost every drink and dish. Isabella’s menu is creative, playful and full of unexpected combinations. The Day of the Dead theme of the restaurant feels authentic, but it also creates a very dark and loud dining room. We found ourselves yelling across the table when conversing. However, the bar at the front of the restaurant is a bright warm spot with reclaimed materials where the playfulness of the theme shines through. Bandolero is an absolute must try, and without a doubt serves up some of the best Mexican cuisine I have tasted in the city.

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Nightlife

Ed Bailey brings Secret Garden to Project GLOW festival

An LGBTQ-inclusive dance space at RFK this weekend

Published

2 hours ago

April 26, 2024

Evan Caplan

Ed Bailey's set at last year's Project Glow. (Photo courtesy Bailey)

When does a garden GLOW? When it’s run by famed local gay DJ Ed Bailey.

This weekend, music festival Project GLOW at RFK Festival Grounds will feature Bailey’s brainchild the Secret Garden, a unique space just for the LGBTQ community that he launched in 2023.

While Project GLOW, running April 27-28, is a stage for massive electronic DJ sets in a large outdoor space, Secret Garden is more intimate, though no less adrenaline-forward. He’s bringing the nightclub to the festival. The garden is a dance area that complements the larger stages, but also stands on its own as a draw for festival-goers. Its focus is on DJs that have a presence and following in the LGBTQ audience world.

“The Secret Garden is a showcase for what LGBTQ nightlife, and nightclubs in general, are all about,” he says. “True club DJs playing club music for people that want to dance in a fun environment that is high energy and low stress. It’s the cool party inside the bigger party.”

Project GLOW launched in 2022. Bailey connected with the operators after the first event, and they discussed Bailey curating his own space for 2023. “They were very clear that they wanted me to lean into the vibrant LGBTQ nightlife of D.C. and allow that community to be very visibly a part of this area.”

Last year, club icon Kevin Aviance headlined the Secret Garden. The GLOW festival organizers loved the its energy from last year, and so asked Bailey to bring it back again, with an entire year to plan.

This year, Bailey says, he is “bringing in more D.C. nightlife legends.” Among those are DJ Sedrick, “a DJ and entertainer legend. He was a pivotal part of Tracks nightclub and is such a dynamic force of entertainment,” says Bailey. “I am excited for a whole new audience to be able to experience his very special brand of DJing!”

Also, this year brings in Illustrious Blacks, a worldwide DJ duo with roots in D.C.; and “house music legends” DJs Derrick Carter and DJ Spen.

Bailey is focusing on D.C.’s local talent, with a lineup including Diyanna Monet, Strikestone!, Dvonne, Baronhawk Poitier, THABLACKGOD, Get Face, Franxx, Baby Weight, and Flower Factory DJs KS, Joann Fabrixx, and PWRPUFF.

Secret Garden also brings in performers who meld music with dance, theater, and audience interactions for a multi-sensory experience.

Bailey is an owner of Trade and Number Nine, and was previously an owner of Town Danceboutique. Over the last 35 years, Bailey owned and operated more than 10 bars and clubs in D.C. He has an impressive resume, too. Since starting in 1987, he’s DJ’d across the world for parties and nightclubs large and intimate. He says that he opened “in concert for Kylie Minogue, DJed with Junior Vasquez, played giant 10,000-person events, and small underground parties.” He’s also held residencies at clubs in Atlanta, Miami, and here in D.C. at Tracks, Nation, and Town.

With Secret Garden, Bailey and GLOW aim to bring queer performers into the space not just for LGBTQ audiences, but for the entire music community to meet, learn about, and enjoy. While they might enjoy fandom among queer nightlife, this Garden is a platform for them to meet the entirety of GLOW festival goers.

Weekend-long Project GLOW brings in headliners and artists from EDM and electronic music, with big names like ILLENIUM, Zedd, and Rezz. In all, more than 50 artists will take the three stages at the third edition of Project GLOW, presented by Insomniac (Electric Daisy Carnival) and Club Glow (Echostage, Soundcheck).

Out & About

Washington Improv Theatre hosts ‘The Queeries’

Event to celebrate queer DMV talent and pop culture camp

Published

3 hours ago

April 26, 2024

Tinashe Chingarande

The Washington Improv Theatre, along with the Mayor’s Office of LGBTQ Affairs and the Gay Men’s Chorus of Washington DC, will team up to host “The Queeries!” on Friday, April 26 at 9:30 p.m. at Studio Theatre.

The event will celebrate Queer DMV talent and pop culture camp. With a mixture of audience-submitted nominations and blatantly undemocratically declared winners, “The Queeries!” mimics LGBTQ life itself: unfair, but far more fun than the alternative.

The event will be co-hosted by Birdie and Butchie, who have invited some of their favorite bent winos, D.C. “D-listers,” former Senate staffers, and other stars to sashay down the lavender carpet for the selfie-strewn party of the year.

Tickets are just $15 and can be purchased on WITV’s website.