Dining
Ethnic variations offer a more authentically American Thanksgiving dinner
Taqueria del Barrio, Le Dip, Osteria Morini among local spots offering specials


Mexican turkey roulade with tamales is just one of the interesting twists on traditional Thanksgiving fare offered at area restaurants. (Photo by Jai Williams)
If we’ve learned anything during the past interesting year in U.S. history, it’s that there is no one person or ethnic group that can define what it means to be American. By the same token, while the turkey-and-stuffing Thanksgiving Day meal is considered an American classic, it is the culinary ethnic touches that individual families bring to the table that tells the true story of Thanksgiving. As a nation of immigrants, some of us may have grown up feasting on both turkey and tamales, mac ’n’cheese and matzo balls, pumpkin pie and pandan cake.
In the spirit of celebrating all that is American, consider using this year’s Thanksgiving holiday to explore the full array of flavors of America. A wide range of restaurants across the area offer both inspiration and myriad options, whether you choose to eat out or stay in. Here’s a brief selection of what’s on the menu:
Taqueria del Barrio (821 Upshur St., N.W.; taqueriadelbarrio.com): Mexican turkey roulade — turkey wrapped around pork loin wrapped around house-made chorizo — provides a stunning centerpiece for your table. You can order the roulade ($16 per pound; one pound feeds two people) through Monday, Nov. 20 to pick up from the restaurant on Wednesday, Nov. 22; add homemade cheese poblano tamales ($3.99 each). And while the restaurant will be closed on Thanksgiving Day, the roulade will be on the menu from Nov. 24-26, accompanied by tamales and a cranberry orange salsa. Call 202-723-0200 to order the roulade for pick-up.
Le Diplomate (1601 14th St., N.W.; lediplomatedc.com): Yes, you’ll be able to get a French-inspired traditional Thanksgiving meal with all the trimmings at Le Dip, including pumpkin soup, sausage stuffing and roasted turkey breast — but consider opting for the duck sarladaise. Usually only available on the brunch menu, this hearty dish is a worthy stand-in, a rich layering of duck confit and potatoes roasted in duck fat topped off with a fried egg. End your meal with a glass of Vidal Ice Wine, the perfect note of chilled sweetness to accompany the slightly savory flavor of pumpkin pie.
Osteria Morini (301 Water St., S.E.; osteriamorini.com): Classic Thanksgiving dishes and Italian ingredients were somehow made for each other, as showcased on Osteria Morini’s three-course Thanksgiving Day menu. At $59 per person, you might choose to start with a creamy housemade burrata paired with slightly bitter charred rapini and a sweet fig agrodolce, brown butter-glazed gnocchi with delicata squash, turkey breast with a focaccia and turkey leg stuffing, Brussels sprouts with crispy pancetta and cippolini onions, and top it off with a Tahitian vanilla cheesecake with apple compote and polenta cake crumble.
Rasika (633 D St., N.W.; rasikarestaurant.com): If you ever thought turkey was boring, executive chef Vikram Sunderam has created a special Thanksgiving Day dish that will forever alter that perception. The Turkey Istew, priced at $20, is turkey breast simmered in coconut milk with curry leaves, ginger and green chili, served with smoked butternut squash kootu, Brussels sprouts poriyal and cranberry rice. Add the ghobi mattar and lemon cashew nut rice from the a la carte menu for a celebratory meal loaded with deep flavors and textures.
City Tap Dupont (1250 Connecticut Ave., N.W.; dupont.citytap.com): Allagash Brewery is bringing the flavors of hops and malt to the menu in a series of beer-flavored side dishes to accompany City Tap’s brined turkey with a brown ale gravy. Look for Allagash Black chestnut and pear stuffing, Allagash white orange and cranberry sauce, and an Allagash Tripel reduction with roasted carrots. Pumpkin pie will come topped off with Allagash Curieux caramel sauce. Platters with the turkey and side dishes are $30 and the Allagash beers featured on the menu will be offered on draft at special prices.
The Grill Room (1050 31st St., N.W.; rosewoodhotels.com): If you’re looking for an old-school Thanksgiving experience, sink into the upholstery at the Grill Room. Start off with autumn bean and tuscan kale soup, apple and spinach salad with dried blueberries and golden raisins and an oven-roasted turkey breast with brioche stuffing with wild mushrooms and duck confit. Indulge in the pecan pie with bourbon ice cream and then consider stopping in at the adjacent Rye Bar for a nightcap — go for the oak-aged Manhattan.
And finally if you’re trying to use up those Thanksgiving leftovers once Black Friday rolls around, then chef Spike Mendelsohn has shared a tasty recipe inspired by the menu at his latest restaurant, Santa Rosa Taqueria (313 Pennsylvania Ave., S.E.; santarosataqueria.com). It’s a welcome respite from yet another turkey sandwich.
Thanksgiving Carnitas
Ingredients:
Any amount of flour tortillas depending on how much turkey you have
Leftover dark meat turkey (thighs & drumsticks)
2 oranges
1 medium onion, chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil
Kosher salt
Fresh cilantro
Sliced radishes
1 lime
Combine turkey (bones are okay), orange and onion in a pot. Add enough water to cover halfway. Cover pot and bring to a boil, then reduce to a bare simmer and cook until turkey is fall-off-the-bone (approximately 45 minutes-1 hour).
Discard the orange and onion; drain the turkey, then shred the meat and discard the bones. Heat oil in a nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add turkey in an even layer on the bottom of the pan. Cook, without moving, until meat is well browned and crisp on the bottom (about 5 minutes), then stir turkey to incorporate the crisp bits and introduce new soft bits to the bottom. Continue this process until the turkey is as crisp as you like it. Season with salt, then divide the meat on warmed tortillas and garnish with sliced radishes and cilantro. Squeeze a wedge of lime over the top before eating.
Kristen Hartke is a D.C.-based food and beverage writer; follow her kitchen adventures on Instagram, @kristenhartke.

Fresh off a hot summer of restaurant openings, fall shows no sign of slowing down for bar and restaurant openings and culinary events. Below is a taste of those openings, an exciting day-to-night festival and one fabulous fundraiser taking place this fall and winter.
The Square (1850 K St.). Debuting last week, The Square is D.C.’s newest food market opening within International Square. Although the first phase has just a handful of vendors, when fully operational, the food hall will feature a collection of more than 15 vendors, a full-service restaurant and bar, an expansive bar in the central atrium, and outdoor dining seating and retail. Opening right next door and from the same owner (Ruben Garcia) will be Casa Teresa, a family-style Spanish/Catalan restaurant.
Bistro Du Jour Capitol Hill (20 Massachusetts Ave., N.W.) is opening this month. Gay-owned KNEAD Hospitality + Design announced yet another jewel in its growing crown of a restaurant empire with the upcoming Bistro Capitol Hill. Building on their existing ventures in the D.C. market, Bistro Capitol Hill is for locals, Hill staff, and tourists, according to the owners. The upscale restaurant will expand upon the Wharf location of the same name, with a much bigger space featuring 200 seats, a full bar, and the addition of a lounge. It will open for happy hour, breakfast, brunch, lunch, and dinner. The upscale bistro will also expand its offerings beyond what they are known for at the Wharf, with a must more expansive menu.
The Atlas Alexandria Brewery & Tap Room (2501 Mandeville Lane) is slated to open later this year in the Carlyle Crossing development. The 6,000-square-foot space will include a brewery with a production capacity of 2,000 barrels. The adjoining tap room has 16 draft lines and a full kitchen facility, plus a huge outdoor patio. The brewery and tap room, not far from the King Street Metro stop, slices up pies from Andy’s Pizza. The brewery’s six core beers include Silent Neighbor, which recently won a gold medal at the 2023 World Beer Cup.
Cleveland Park is getting a flip when big-name restaurateur Ashok Bajaj of Knightsbridge Restaurant Group opens Little Black Bird (3309 Connecticut Ave.), replacing his Indian spot, Bindaas. Located next to Israeli resto Sababa (also by Bajaj), the name Little Black Bird is a nod to the French word for blackbird, merle, which is also related to the wine name, Merlot. This wine list, with 100 wines by the bottle and 12 by the glass, will be global in nature, alongside a big menu wth Mediterranean inspiration.
Restaurateur Stephen Starr, of Le Diplomate fame, opened El Presidente (1255 Union St., N.E.) last week in Union Market. This 6,000-square-foot space “artfully mirrors the essence of Mexico City’s gastronomy,” according to the restaurant. The menu, though, draws from across the country, serving oysters from the Pacific coast, al pastor tacos, and a handful of guac variations, including one topped with king crab. A raw bar anchors one corner of the vibrantly lit series of dining rooms, pairing well with several mezcal- and tequila-centric cocktails. Not far from Starr’s other property, St. Anselm, El Presidente fits in appropriately alongside nearby La Cosecha, the Latin food hall also in the Union Market district.
On 14th Street, Bar Japonais (1520 14th St., N.W.) slides into the former Estadio space in early 2024. Similar to its sister restaurant Bar Chinois in Mount Vernon Square, Bar Japonais will blend French and Japanese flavors in an energetic atmosphere, much like Bar Chinois. Developed in the izakaya style, the restaurant will have Japanese-leaning food and French-leaning cocktails.
And over in National Landing by HQ2 will be Surreal (2117 Crystal Dr. in Arlington, Va.), from Seven Reasons owner Michelin-starred Venezuelan chef Enrique Limardo and Ezequiel Vázquez-Ger. The Latin-inspired bistro has an eclectic menu, with dishes like queso fundido shakshuka, swordfish carpaccio, and “Flaming Hot Totopos.” The restaurant will have grab-and-go items and bakery for office workers, plus expansive beverage program to drink onsite – and possibly be able to take with them to have the park right outside the restaurant.
After the first Art All Night lit up Shaw in 2011, the 2023 Art All Night is reaching all eight wards, Sept. 29-30. The festival’s activations differ each night, bringing visual and performing arts, including painting, photography, sculpture, crafts, fashion, music, literary arts, dance, theater, film, and poetry, to indoor and outdoor public and private spaces. This year, Dine All Night is joining the mix, with dozens of restaurants participating to offer special menus Sept.21-Oct. 1.
We would be remiss not to mention a signature fundraising culinary event for LGBTQ rights, Chefs for Equality. After a two-year hiatus due to the pandemic, the Human Rights Campaign Foundation and prominent food writer David Hagedorn are celebrating the return of Chefs for Equality on Monday, October 30, 2023, at the National Building Museum. Now in its 10th year, the evening of food, drink, entertainment, and live and silent auctions, supports the Human Rights Campaign Foundation’s nationwide educational work and its fight for LGBTQ+ equality. This year’s theme, Plate of Emergency, calls attention to the state of emergency that the Human Rights Campaign has officially declared because of intensified attacks on the LGBTQ+ community, particularly transgender and non-binary people, says Hagedorn. The expansive event features 55 savory tasting stations and 30 cocktail bars helmed by chefs and mixologists from around the city and the region. There are also 13 personal chef tables serving five-course meals with chefs themselves.
a&e features
Cuisine and culture come together at The Square
D.C.’s newest food hall highlights Spanish flavors

Downtown got a bit tastier when “the next generation of food halls” opened its doors on Tuesday near the Farragut West Metro stop. Dubbed The Square, its half-dozen debut stalls are a Spanish-flecked mix of D.C. favorites, new concepts, and vendor-collaborative spirit.
After two years of planning – and teasing some big-name chefs – the market is, according to the owners, “where cuisine, culture, and community are woven together.”
Behind this ambitious project with lofty aims are Richie Brandenburg, who had a hand in creating Union Market and Rubén García, a creative director of the José Andrés Group who also was part of the team of Mercado Little Spain, the fairly new Spanish-themed Andres food hall in Hudson Yards.
Food halls have come a long way since the new Union Market awakened the concept a decade ago. Instead of simply rows of vendors in parallel lines, The Square has a new business model and perspective. This food hall shares revenue between the owners and its chef partners. Vendors are encouraged to collaborate, using one software system, and purchasing raw materials and liquor at scale together.
“Our goal was two-fold: to create a best-in-class hospitality offering with delicious foods for our guests; and behind the scenes, create the strong, complex infrastructure needed to nurture both young chefs and seasoned professionals, startups, and innovation within our industry,” says Brandenburg.
The Square has embraced a more chef-forward methodology, given that the founders/owners themselves are chefs. They’re bringing together a diverse mix of new talent and longtime favorites to connect, offer guidance to each other, and make the market into a destination.

The first phase of The Square premiered this week. This phase encapsulates a selection of original concepts from well-known local chefs and business owners, and includes:
• Cashion’s Rendezvous – Oysters, crab cakes, and cocktails, from the owners of D.C. institutions and now-closed Cashion’s Eat Place and Johnny’s Half-Shell (Ann Cashion and John Fulchino).
• Jamón Jamón – Flamenco-forward food with hand-cut jamón Iberico, queso, and croquetas, sourced by García himself.
• Brasa – Grilled sausages and veggies are the stars here. Chef García oversees this Spanish street-food stall as well.
• Taqueria Xochi – Birria, guisado, and other street tacos, plus margs. Named after the ruins of Xochitecatl in Central Mexico, and from a Jose Andres alum.
• Yaocho – Fried chicken, juices, sweets, and libations.
• Junge’s – Churros and soft serve ice cream. Brandenburg and García both have a hand in this stall.
• Atrium Bar – The central watering hole for drinks. Atrium Bar serves cocktails, wine, and beer curated by The Square’s Beverage Director Owen Thompson.
“Having been part of Jose Andres’s restaurant group and getting to know Ruben and Richie, it’s amazing to see how their values align with ours at Taqueria Xochi. Seeing all these incredible chefs heading into Square feels like a full-circle moment,” said Geraldine Mendoza of Taqueria Xochi.
Slated for fall 2023, the next round of openings includes Flora Pizzeria, Cebicheria Chalaca, KIYOMI Sushi by Uchi, Shoals Market (a retail hub), and more. Additionally, chef Rubén García’s Spanish restaurant, Casa Teresa, will soon open next door to The Square.
The Square is just one of a handful of new food halls blossoming in and around D.C. Up in Brentwood, Md., miXt Food Hall is an art-adjacent space with tacos, a year-round fresh market, coffee, and beer. Across from Union Market is La Cosecha, a Latin marketplace with everything from street food to a Michelin starred restaurant and a festive vibe. Closer to The Square is Western Market by GW University, which opened in late 2021 with a buzzy, relaxed style.
For now, the Square is open Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. The Square plans to open on weekends and extend hours to offer dinner service in the coming months. A few alfresco seats will accompany the hall.

Dining
Watch Pride parade from one of these bars, restaurants
Plenty of viewing options along route with drink, food specials

The Capital Pride Parade steps off from 14th and T streets, N.W. at 3 p.m. on Saturday, June 10. The parade tradition honors the city’s LGBTQ history and acknowledges the evolution of the LGBTQ neighborhoods in Washington, D.C., as the parade winds through the 14th Street, Logan Circle, and Dupont Circle neighborhoods. One of the best ways to watch: Settle down at one of the many bars and restaurants that line the route. From start to finish, check out a few select options below.
Nama Ko
Situated just north of the parade kickoff, Nama Ko (which recently replaced Tico, from the same owners), will be celebrating Pride this year with three cocktail options for bottomless brunch (during the parade weekend and all month long), and an extended happy hour from 3-7 p.m. The featured drink is a Lychee Saketini made with Tito’s Vodka, Nigori sake, and lychee purée; the drinks will be offered to-go for $10. Nama Ko will also offer two soft-serve flavors to go: miso honey truffle with chocolate & caramel sauces, and a black sesame soft serve topped with date syrup, cherries, and candied walnuts. To the delight of marchers, the many windows that face 14th Street will be painted a vibrant rainbow, as Tico did each year as well.
Mi Vida
Now one of three Mi Vida locations and part of the gay-owned Knead Restaurant Group, this colorful Mexican restaurant on 14th will have a special Pride cocktail, “Plus One,” which includes Tito’s Vodka, Chinola Passion Fruit, Aperol, Vanilla, Lime, Bubbles ($16). A portion of the proceeds will be donated to The Trevor Project. Guests who are coming to watch the parade can take their cocktail on the patio to get a front-row seat to the parade festivities.
Bresca
This upscale Parisian-style bistro graced with one Michelin star will join the party by opening up its bar area overlooking 14th Street for the parade.
Le Dip
To honor pride, Le Diplomate is highlighting Republic Restoratives spirits. Republic Restoratives, an LGBTQ-owned distillery located in Northeast, is a longtime supporter of LGBTQ rights in D.C. Le Diplomate will honor Republic in two cocktails June 9-11: the Romarin, using Civic Vodka, and the Tonic Trope, which will feature Assembly Gin. Le Diplomate has patio seating right on 14th Street and on Q Street.
Jane Jane
This throwback gay-owned cocktail lair with a patio on 14th Street is hosting a month-long Pride fundraiser in support of the ACLU Drag Defense Fund, During the month of June, the popular bar will donate 10 percent of sales from its Pride cocktail menu, and 50 percent of all T-shirt sales to the Drag Defense Fund. The bar will set up a stand for drinks outside during the parade, and will open up inside for the remainder of the evening.
Otherwise on 14th Street, check out patios at spots like Gypsy Kitchen, Garden District, Ted’s Bulletin, Aslin Beer Company, Chicken + Whiskey, Pearl Dive Oyster Palace and more.
The parade route leaves 14th Street and turns west on Rhode Island Avenue. Two hotels right on the route are hosting Pride parties.
Viceroy Washington DC
The Capital Pride partner event Crack of Noon PRIDE Parade Brunch event is taking place at the Viceroy’s Dovetail restaurant. Pregame for the parade with an all-you-can-eat brunch plus bubbly. Diners have the chance to meet the celebrated Pride Parade grand marshals, Pride 2023 Honorees, and other surprise special guests. Diners must be 21+. Brunch runs 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. for $60-$75.
Darcy Hotel
Just a block west, The Darcy Hotel will host a Pride event on the Gerrard Street Patio, complete with a DJ plus food and drink specials. The hotel is offering two specialty cocktails for the entire month of June: The No28 cocktail ($6.28) in honor of National Pride Day (6/28), and The Darcy Pride cocktail, with peach vodka and passionfruit.
From there, the parade turns north on 17th Street for one block, and back west on P Street.
DC Vegan
At the corner of 17th and P Streets, this vegan deli-restaurant-bar is hosting its annual Vegan Pride party again with a special menu, and extended 12 p.m.-12 a.m. service. The bar will serve sausages, sandwiches, loaded nachos, Pride cupcakes, and other street-friendly eaters. DC Vegan will open up not only its subterranean bar, but also an auxiliary bar in its parklet patio, serving beer, wine, and liquor right on P Street.
The parade finishes its route curving around Dupont Circle and ends at 21st Street, N.W. Bars and restaurants with patios there include Pizzeria Paradiso, Sura Thai, and Emissary.
And if the parade crowds are too daunting, watch the parade on the giant screen at Pride on the Pier at the Wharf. The festivities include drag shows, DJs, VIP sections, and the parade on the big screen. Admission to the pier is free; the party runs from 2-9 p.m. culminating in a fireworks display. Visit prideonthepierdc.com for more information.
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