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D.C. women restaurant vets overcome sexism, homophobia

Small gayborhood launches were key to early footing for Leeds, Gresser

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Jamie Leeds, left, and Ruth Gresser are longtime D.C. restaurant owners who say theyā€™ve seen many changes over the decades. (Leeds photo by Ana Isabel Photography via JL Restaurant Group; Gresser photo courtesy Savor PR)

When dinner is more than just food, when acceptance and inclusion are on the menu and when dishes come with a side of equality, itā€™s possible Ruth Gresser and Jamie Leeds had a hand in your meal.

These women are experienced veterans in Washingtonā€™s restaurant scene. They are also out, loud and defining what it means to be queer women dominating their work.

Thirty years ago, there wasnā€™t much to write about when talking dining in D.C. Yet 30 years ago, Gresser and Leeds were both getting their start as out lesbians in the challenging, yet rewarding, culinary space.

ā€œIt seemed that I was not the only lesbian with an interest in food,ā€ Gresser says. ā€œI immediately found a community of friends who supported each other in the mutual struggles of being gay in a hostile society and being a woman in a male-dominated field.ā€

Gresser never hid who she was.

ā€œIā€™m sure I have faced discrimination because of it,ā€ she says. ā€œFrom not getting a loan years ago to not being recognized as the owner and operator of my own business.ā€

Leeds concurs.

ā€œI never felt like had to hide it,ā€ she says, even when working in upscale restaurants in New York. ā€œI was never in an environment where had to not be who I was; I was always accepted.ā€

She attributes this to her work ethic and passion. One difficulty she did have was looking for mentors, especially in financial aspect of the business.

ā€œBack in the ā€˜80s when I was starting, there were really not many famous women chefs,ā€ Leeds says. ā€œRaising money was a challenge.ā€

Today, there are many more options for support. When both women were starting, there was only one place to go in the city: Dupont Circle, the gayborhood of the time, just close enough to chic Georgetown and just close enough to edgy, scruffy 14th Street as a snug space where the LGBT community could thrive in a neighborhood atmosphere.

Gresser made it a point to settle in the area.

ā€œThis was the gay neighborhood and also the location of my first jobs in D.C., so I have always been connected to the local gay community,ā€ Gresser says. ā€œWhile Dupont Circle was known a the gay neighborhood, the neighborhood was often easier to locate than gay people. In the late ā€˜80s many gay people lived in the closet, only emerging at the bars and on Pride.ā€

When she decided to open her award-winning restaurant Pizzeria Paradiso in 1991, she refused to keep her identity hidden and set the restaurant on P Street.

ā€œI was not going to be closeted. Paradiso was always out as a lesbian-owned restaurant,ā€ she says. ā€œDuring a gay Pride parade, we hung a gay flag in front of the restaurant.ā€

Leedsā€™ life took a similar trajectory. When she arrived in Washington, she also sought out Dupont. And when she opened Hankā€™s Oyster Bar, the flagship restaurant in her mini-empire of ā€œurban beach food,ā€ and all things shellfish, it was only logical to be in Dupont. She eventually settled on Q Street, right off 17th. The area was ripe for a casual, intimate, neighborhood-style restaurant.

ā€œThe fact that I am a lesbian, the gay community came to support me,ā€ Leeds says. ā€œIt was very crucial in us becoming successful.ā€

That support allowed them to dominate and expand in time. There were still echoes of discrimination, however. One year, while watching the parade, Gresser heard a woman comment that sheā€™d never frequent Paradiso after seeing it fly the gay flag. Gresser made sure to let this woman know that her business wasnā€™t needed ā€” her restaurant was already a runaway success.

Today, both have gone on to open several other ventures, yet their identities as lesbians are central to whom they are. A strong work ethic, they agree, has been crucial to their success. In their early years, they had to prove themselves often.

ā€œI have done what women have always done,ā€ Gresser says. ā€œPut my head down and do my job.ā€

Leeds agrees.

ā€œThis industry is very big mix of personalities and backgrounds, about creativity and what you produce. Iā€™ve always worked very hard, being in trenches with everyone else. From that, I gained the respect of everyone around me.ā€

Contemporary D.C., though, is a far cry from 2005, let alone 1995.

ā€œThe changes in acceptance by the larger society have changed this dynamic, and it is much easier to be gay and out in restaurants and in the world,ā€ Gresser says.

Leeds says fewer women in the field are choosing lives in the closet. It helps, she says, that more women in general are in the field.

To help create more safe spaces, Leeds foundedĀ  a ladiesā€™ tea, held in spring and summer at Hankā€™s in Dupont each month. It has become a destination during the warmer seasons, a homey gathering place where women can be themselves.

Nevertheless, thereā€™s work to be done. The recent #MeToo discussion has hit the service and hospitality industry hard. Sexual harassment is rife in bars and restaurants, and recognition of female chefs, restaurateurs, bartenders and other leaders is only just now taking shape.

Gresser says sheā€™s felt confident to be out and loud, only perhaps because sheā€™s a veteran and a successful, self-employed woman. But others are not always so lucky.

ā€œI hope that the world will change and right now there is lip service towards that end,ā€ Gresser says. ā€œBut the issue of womenā€™s discrimination is so systemic in our society that I wonder if the lip service will result in real change.ā€

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Dining

Union Marketā€™s Last Call Bar a welcoming oasis for all

Mixologist Britt Weaver expresses her pride and identity every day

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Britt Weaver is head mixologist at Last Call Bar.

Amid the development of the fast-growing Union Market district, spanning dozens of eateries (including a duo of Michelin stars), embracing and inclusive spaces are tough to come by. Last Call Bar is one of those ā€” and head mixologist and proud member of the LGBTQ community Britt Weaver is making sure this divey spot stays that way.

While buzzy restaurants take the spotlight, Weaver and Last Call are embracing the different.

ā€œIā€™ve made it a personal mission to ensure that the bar continues to be a place where everyone feels welcomed and accepted,ā€ she says. ā€œBeing behind the bar, I see a lot of people ā€” I try to make sure every guest feels safe, seen, and cared for when they visit.ā€

Last Call exudes a laid-back spirit, aiming to fill that neighborhood-style gap that might be missing among prix-fixe tasting menus and shiny boutiques. Eccentric dƩcor that includes painted lockers, old posters hung from the ceiling, artfully peeling paint, and arcade games feeds into the homey spirit. Patrons are welcome to bring in stickers and slap them on the bar, adding even more personality to the space.

Launched in 2019 serving sub-$10 drinks and having survived the pandemic, Last Call still maintains an unconventional vibe that extends to the menu. Itā€™s one of the few bars that serves flavor-changing Jello shots, with the option to add nostalgia-inducing pop rocks; as well as an hour-long ā€œteeny tiny ā€˜tini hourā€ for those who want a taste but not an entire glassful of liquor. Keeping things cool: koozies are also for sale. The food menuā€™s grown since opening, with sandwiches in addition to bags of chips and shareable dips.

Last Call welcomed Weaver in 2023. While working as a bartender during grad school, Weaver was drawn to the excitement of the bar scene. After COVID, she says, she leaned into her career in the hospitality industry.

In the freewheeling, demanding bartending industry, Weaver has fought to be seen.

ā€œPrevious jobs and ownership teams have urged me to conceal my identity, but that is something I refuse to do. It is so incredibly important for me to be able to express my pride and identity every day,ā€ she says.

Last Call has a pedigree from its ally owner Gina Chersevani, who also runs decade-old Buffalo and Bergen stall inside Union Market and a sister Buffalo and Bergen on Capitol Hill. Chersevani is deeply rooted in the D.C. hospitality industry, which Weaver says has a culture that celebrates creativity and expression.

Chersevani ensures that ā€œIā€™ve been celebrated and encouraged to express my identity,ā€ says Weaver. ā€œShe has given me the freedom to cultivate a space that is welcoming of the LGBTQ+ community while also still remaining true to the Last Call spirit.ā€ This year, during Pride month, Chersevani launched a Pride punch card, in which patrons who visited all of her spots won free drinks.

Weaver further notes that being proud of her identity and committing to it behind the bar and in the fast-paced service industry ā€œopens more space for other LGBTQ+ industry members to feel safe to express their own identities. Visibility is so critical in making safe spaces for the queer community.ā€

Looking forward, Weaver remains steadfast in her commitment to learning and growing in the space and in D.C. She promises that Last Call Bar has plenty of events and programming, new cocktail menus, and a welcoming community spirit.

To celebrate the summer, Weaver offered a cocktail recipe to have at home with friends: Strawberry PiƱa Colada.

Ingredients

Ā· 2 ounces silver rum

Ā· 1 ounce strawberry purĆ©e

Ā· 1 ounce fresh pineapple juice

Ā· 1 ounce coconut milk

Ā· .5 ounce lime juice

Combine all ingredients, then shake. Serve in a Collins glass, over crushed ice, and

garnish as desired.

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Dining

RAMMYs honors restaurant industry professionals

A busy summer for D.C.ā€™s dining scene

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D.C.ā€™s Summer Restaurant Week runs from Monday, Aug. 12, through Sunday, Aug. 18.

Representing the ever-growing, increasingly recognized restaurant industry in Washington, D.C., the Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington (RAMW) held its first-ever RAMMYs Honors Event on June 18 in the lower level of the Watergate Hotel. Restaurant and hospitality industry professionals, leaders, and community members gathered to celebrate RAMMY special distinctions. 

The event took place as an extension of the traditional RAMMY Awards Gala, which honors ā€œthe exceptional ability and accomplishmentsā€ of the regionā€™s restaurants and foodservice community. The 42nd Annual RAMMY Awards Gala will take place on Sunday, July 21, at the Walter E. Washington Convention Center.

The RAMMYs Honors event kicked off with a cocktail hour, and was hosted by author, seasoned democratic strategist, and co-host of MSNBCā€™s The Weekend, Symone Sanders Townsend.

While there were several awards presented, this inaugural event only held onto one announcement until the event itself: the RAMMYS Joan Hisaoka Allied Member of the Year Winner, presented to an associate member who best exemplifies commitment to and support of RAMW. This year, the Carlos Rosario International Public Charter School won, a school supporting adult immigrants that includes a culinary arts program.

Other honors that evening included the Duke Zeibert Capital Achievement Award Winner, which was given to Greater Washington Partnership CEO Kathy E. Hollinger ā€œfor her excellence and community leadership, increasing the profile and success of the metropolitan Washington foodservice community.ā€ Prior to joining the Partnership, Hollinger was president and CEO of RAMW. Hollinger sat for a wide-ranging interview on stage with Sanders Townsend, who is married to Shawn Townsend current president and CEO of the RAMW.Ā 

Finally, the 2024 Honorary Milestone RAMMY Award recipients were also honored, celebrating a significant number of years serving locals and visitors in Metropolitan Washington: The Dubliner (50 years), Blackā€™s Bar & Kitchen (25 years), Equinox on 19th (25 years), KAZ Sushi Bistro (25 years), Marcelā€™s (25 years), and Passage to India (25 years).

As the restaurant industry grows in the city, for the first-time, the RAMMYS Honors event allowed for a unique opportunity to highlight a range of special distinctions determined by RAMW’s executive committee. Instead of being public-facing, the Honors were dedicated to industry professionals, to give extra attention and the spotlight to those that often get overlooked at the main RAMMYs Gala. These awards were chosen by RAMW’s executive committee whereas the other awards, given at The RAMMYS, are chosen by both the public and an anonymous panel of judges.

Summer, traditionally a slower time for the restaurant industry, means that RAMW is pulling out the stops for diners to try out new and favorite spots across the area.

First, finalists for Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washingtonā€™s 2024 Wine Program of the Year will take part in promotions planned for the second week of July. From Monday, July 8, through Sunday, July 14, the regionā€™s top wine programs will showcase their outstanding varietals and pours. The 2024 Wine Program of the Year Finalists include: Apero (Dupont Circle), Era (Mt. Ranier), Irregardless (H Street), Luluā€™s Wine Garden (Shaw), and St. Anselm (Union Market). Each will have discounts, tasting parties, special blends, flights, and other ways to savor the areaā€™s top wines.

Finally, the season also sees the return of Summer Restaurant Week, celebrating the region’s restaurant industry from Monday, Aug. 12, through Sunday, Aug. 18. Participating restaurants will offer multi-course brunch and lunch menus with updated tiered pricing for $25 or $35 per person, and multi-course dinner menus for $40, $55, or $65 per person for on-premises dining. Many restaurants will also offer cocktail, wine, and non-alcoholic pairings.

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Dining

Behind the bar with Moon Rabbitā€™s Thi Nguyen

Cocktails work in harmony with thoughtfully executed Vietnamese dishes

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Moon Rabbitā€™s Thi Nguyen

Thi Nguyenā€™s hands move purposely behind the bar, her all-business, cobalt blue nails gleaming under the warm lighting of recently relocated ā€“ and highly celebrated ā€“ Moon Rabbit. A dash of simple syrup infused with pandan ā€“ a shrub native to Southeast Asia with vanilla-scented leaves ā€“ moves deftly in her hands to lightly spice a cocktail that will soon receive another kick from ginger bitters.

Nguyen, Moon Rabbitā€™s celebrated bar manager, cannot be accused of holding back flavors from her drinks. Nor can she hold back her identity and her journey. Her journey from Saigon to Maryland to California and finally to D.C., but also her journey as a proudly out lesbian, unafraid to bring her whole self to all her pours.

Boundaries, borders, conventions: these matter little to Nguyen, who left several homes to finally find herself where sheā€™s most comfortable, and where she acts as a leader and mentor for others to do the same. Just as she doesnā€™t hide her identity, she also doesnā€™t hide that her cocktails complement Moon Rabbitā€™s vibrant, contemporary Vietnamese cuisine. Owner/chef Kevin Tien pays tribute to his heritage as a first-generation Asian American, using Moon Rabbit as a platform for expressing his love for Vietnamese culture and food through a determinedly modern lens.

Her cocktails, then, work in harmony with thoughtfully executed dishes like chewy rice cakes under a tofu crumble and cured egg, deconstructed crab Rangoon, and wagyu-stuffed perilla leaves brightened by fermented honey.

Sitting with the chefs and acclaimed owner Kevin Tien, ā€œwe begin by exploring cookbooks together,ā€ in a collaborative process, ā€œto find inspiration and potential flavor combinations. It involves a lot of research and development, trial and error, experimentation, and technique.ā€

ā€œAnd while this sometimes leads to failures, it ultimately helps us discover the perfect pairings.ā€

Her menu arrives without flavor hesitations. Cocktail names are given in both English and Vietnamese (as are the dishes), a signal that she is asking diners and drinkers to join her and trust her as unapologetic about her Vietnamese craft. 

The Hįŗæt NĘ°į»›c Chįŗ„m (Out of Dipping Sauce) drink is composed of vodka, passionfruit liqueur, a squeeze of lemon, and a simple syrup based on nĘ°į»›c chįŗ„mā€“ also known as fish sauce. While nodding to the popularity of the savory martini, this cocktail also reflects the ubiquity of fish sauce on the Moon Rabbit menu and across Southeast Asia.

Other ingredients? Sesame oil, coconut milk, palm syrup, and chrysanthemum all show up in various drinks, alcoholic or otherwise. She also creates cocktails that highlight and celebrate gay icons, drawing inspiration not just from the menu and research but also LGBTQ history and culture.

This pride in her work is reflected in the pride in her identity.

ā€œBeing part of the LGBTQ community has taught me the importance of authenticity, resilience, and inclusivity. I am unapologetic about who I am and show up at work proud of my identity, which helps create a space where others feel comfortable and supported.ā€

Tien, Nguyen, and his staff are highly intentional in staffing. ā€œThis commitment to inclusivity is reflected in our hiring practices; we intentionally build a diverse bar team that includes members of the LGBTQ community,ā€ she says.

Just like her physical journey, arriving in this place of leadership and comfort took a circuitous path. In the face of microaggressions and ignorance, comments and assumptions, lack of understanding and respect, she has been able to ā€œstrengthen my resolve to create an inclusive and supportive environment.ā€ She ensures that sheā€™s active in events that raise funds for LGBTQ non-profits around the DMV area, including SYMAL, CCI Health Services, and KhushDC.

 ā€œI hope to encourage other LGBTQ individuals to pursue careers in hospitality and to advocate for greater inclusivity and acceptance in their own workplaces.ā€

Moon Rabbit, formerly located at the InterContinental Hotel on the Wharf, closed with a shock last year (its closure took place among a unionization drive by the hotelā€™s staff that the hotel had opposed). Debuting in its new location in Penn Quarter in January, Moon Rabbit quickly retook its place as a top dining destination: the restaurant was recently added to the Michelin guide. In June, Nguyen herself was named one of the best new bartenders in 2024 by Punch magazine. As Pride month closes out, Nguyen remains as dedicated to her craft ā€“ and her advocacy ā€“ as ever.

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