a&e features
John Waters is never wrong
In new book, the ‘filth elder’ has an opinion on just about everything
John Waters has had underwhelming meals in overpriced restaurants — so you don’t have to.
He’s been caught in long airport security lines. He’s taken the BoltBus to New York City and been delayed while the driver took a dump in the on-board restroom. He’s had to sit in a doctor’s waiting room with an embarrassing ailment and been barraged with questions from other patients who recognize him and demand to know what he’s got.
Now the Baltimore-based filmmaker and writer, who just turned 73, has put all of those experiences and more into a book of opinions and advice, presumably so people won’t have to endure what he has. Called “Mr. Know-It-All: The Tarnished Wisdom of a Filth Elder,” it’s his ninth book, and it comes out on May 21. He’s described it as “my opinion on everything” and “how to avoid respectability at 70 years old.”
When it comes out, readers will discover that “Mr. Know-It-All” isn’t just a book about coping with life’s indignities and humiliations, even though there’s plenty of guidance about that. It’s also part memoir, part celebrity tell-all and part movie industry guidebook with separate chapters about each of his last seven films, all filmed in Baltimore (“Polyester,” “Hairspray,” “Cry-Baby,” “Serial Mom,” “Pecker,” “Cecil B. Demented” and “A Dirty Shame.”)
The book is filled with anecdotes about many of the actors he’s worked with, including Kathleen Turner, Johnny Depp, Tracey Ullman and, of course, Divine. There’s the time Waters turned down Brad Pitt at an audition for “Cry-Baby” because Pitt was too handsome to be cast as Depp’s sidekick, a decision that he thinks makes him perhaps “the only director who ever said no to Brad Pitt.” He remembers that Rikki Lake lost her virginity halfway through “Cry-Baby;” how he called Tab Hunter out of the blue to star in “Polyester” and how he battled with motion picture censors to let him use the word “Pecker” as a movie title.
Other readers may be drawn to his essays about non-cinematic subjects, which range from art collecting and Brutalist architecture to Yippie protests, Andy Warhol and taking LSD at 70. In one chapter, he names the one female he has adored since childhood. In another, he imagines returning to the apartment he lived in during the 1960s, a sign that, in some cases, you can go home again (especially when you still live in the town where you grew up).
“Mr. Know-It-All is here to tell you exactly how to live your life,” he writes early in the book. “I’m never wrong.”
Though the title says it’s a book of wisdom, this is not a rehashed litany of someone else’s platitudes. All the advice he offers grows out of his own experiences. As a result, readers gain insights into the maker of “Pink Flamingos” and “Female Trouble” by learning what he’s gone through and how he dealt with it.
One of those insights is that Waters can be quite frugal and down to earth. He not only takes the inexpensive BoltBus to New York but also goes to a Laundromat when he spends the summers in Provincetown. (And of course, he hitchhiked across the country and wrote about it in his bestseller, “Carsick.”)
In many of his stories, Waters reveals a knack for handling even the most humiliating situations with humor and aplomb. He also says he licks important packages before he puts them in the mail — “to remove any ‘curse’ of show business rejection” — and instructs his staff to do the same. In the LSD chapter, he mentions texting “my boyfriend,” whom he never names.
Next week, Waters begins a national tour to launch his book, published by Farrar, Straus and Giroux. East Coast stops include Barnes and Noble’s Union Square location in New York City on May 21; Politics and Prose Bookstore in Washington (the 5015 Connecticut Ave., N.W. location, with first-come, first-served seating) on May 24 at 7 p.m. and a book signing at Atomic Books, 3620 Falls Road in Baltimore, on May 25 at 7 p.m.
West Coast stops include ticketed events at The Green Arcade at the McRoskey Mattress Loft, 1687 Market Street in San Francisco on May 30 at 7 p.m., and Book Soup at The Renberg Theatre (Los Angeles LGBT Center’s Village), 1125 N, McCadden Place in Los Angeles on June 1 at 7 p.m.
Waters recently sat down at his home for an interview with the Washington Blade to talk about his book and his life as a filth elder. The interview has been condensed.
WASHINGTON BLADE: A good alternative title for your book would be “The Influencer,” don’t you think? How To Win Friends and Influence People 2?
JOHN WATERS: I’m Norman Vincent Peale, you’re saying?
BLADE: You do give a lot of advice: Come up with a gimmick. Have backup plans. Get at least one other person to believe in you. Sound advice, with a John Waters twist.
WATERS: I agree with that totally.
BLADE: Why an advice book?
WATERS: Well, I always kind of parody things, so I thought an advice book coming from me would be kind of a parody in the first place. I needed that kind of genre to be able to talk about all the things I wanted to talk about.
In some ways it’s like “Shock Value” because “Shock Value” ended right before we made “Polyester,” so this has the rest of the movies in it. But I also wrote it from a viewpoint of how to tell young filmmakers how to deal with Hollywood and what happens and all that kind of stuff, and how you fail upward. And then the other subjects I had to put in about love, about fashion, about art, about death, about every possible thing. But to talk about them all, you need a theme that runs through the whole thing, so that’s how I came up with [giving] advice.
Do I expect every person to follow my advice? No, but I believe that I gave good advice. It’s not really told ironically. I believe everything I say in it. But I hoped to write a humorous book at the same time.
BLADE: Who are you giving advice to?
WATERS: I’m giving advice, first of all, to the people that like my work, because they’re hopefully the first people that buy the book. Secondly, even if you don’t know anything about me, I’m giving advice to younger people about how to handle what’s coming, failure and success, in your life if you’ve chosen to be in the arts in any way. So I think I’m trying to give advice to anybody probably younger than me, because older than me are dead, you know. And I tell you how to beat that too.
BLADE: You’re not writing just for the hardcore fans?
WATERS: No, not at all. If you’re never seen any of my movies, you can still read the book.
BLADE: A lot of your fans may be the “others” in society, those who don’t fit in or conform, the people in “Desperate Living” and other movies.
WATERS: The people that used to be the “others” in society are often now the leaders. Everybody wants to be the “other” now. They didn’t used to. Even Trump would probably want to be an outsider. Obama thought he was an outsider. Everybody wants to be an outsider, and I want to be an insider. I said that in “Make Trouble,” that it’s more fun to cause trouble from within. Which is what “Hairspray” did.
BLADE: But a lot of the others aren’t the ones who would typically be disposed to take advice.
WATERS: Maybe from me they might.
BLADE: Why should someone follow your advice?
WATERS: You don’t have to. I think you could read the book and not follow one bit of it and still enjoy the book. You don’t have to. I don’t expect anybody to, really.
BLADE: Your advice grows out of your experiences. It’s not warmed-over Norman Vincent Peale. And because it comes from within, your advice in turn provides insights into you.
WATERS: I always thought that is a joke, that book, which I probably never read. But my parents had it and it was such a thing then that it became a joke in a way. That same title could apply to this book.
BLADE: The other thing about your advice is, you chronicle all the ways you’ve suffered indignities. You’ve had bad dinners at good restaurants. You’ve had bad seats on international flights. You’ve been harassed at the doctor’s office.
WATERS: I’m also saying all the wonderful things that happened to me. So basically, there are different kinds of problems. It is a high-class problem to worry about being recognized in a doctor’s office. It’s the one time that it’s really bad to be seen. Although, if you weren’t [famous], you wouldn’t have gotten the appointment. So in the long run, it isn’t bad.
BLADE: Do bad things happen to you more than most, like Joe Btfsplk in “Li’l Abner?”
WATERS: No. I say in the book, not one bad thing has ever happened to me from being famous, in any way. It really hasn’t. I mean, high-class problems, some of the things I talk about. But, generally, I can bitch about flying all the time. Bitch about first class, which is really bold. But I get to fly all the time and I don’t pay for it. But I’m working, you know? So I’m trying to tell people that when bad things happen to them, they can use it and how they can appreciate it and how they can look back on it and it doesn’t mean really anything terrible.
BLADE: You bring up all these universal things that anybody can identify with and you’ve come out on the other side, none the worse for wear from the indignities you’ve suffered.
WATERS: Everybody has indignities.
BLADE: Are you more sensitive to things than others?
WATERS: No, I don’t think so. I think I notice them more and it’s more, like, ludicrous, some of the problems that you get from being known.
BLADE: And then you use it for comic relief.
WATERS: Yeah, comic relief. In my own life, even.
BLADE: Is there one disappointment that tops them all?
WATERS: I only regret one thing, smoking cigarettes. It’s the only thing I regret in life. Because I’ll probably die from it. I mean, I don’t have cancer, but I’m just saying that, both my parents died from some form of cancer. They were 90 though. They had a long, good life. So, yes, I regret smoking cigarettes.
BLADE: You lived through all these indignities, and that’s a sign that others can too.
WATERS: The other day in New York somebody yelled at me, a homeless person, ‘You’re still alive?’ Which really made me laugh. I thought, ‘Well, yes I am, are you?’
BLADE: You and the Queen of England ought to compare notes.
WATERS: She probably has some really good ones.
BLADE: On your book tour, you’re appearing at Politics and Prose in Washington. Is this book political?
WATERS: Sure it is. All humor is political. And this book, definitely. I have a whole chapter, ACT BAD, which is really [suggesting ways] to go further than ACT UP did. I think comedy is political, trying to get you to laugh at things. I think every chapter in this book is political. But the worst way you can be political [is to] rant. If you get people to laugh, they’ll listen. If you lecture, in a strident tone, like Elizabeth Warren, no one will pay attention. Even though I totally agree with her politics, I hate to hear her talk. She’s never said a funny thing in her life. So the thing is, it’s important, if you want to change people’s minds, to make them laugh. It’s the first way to get their attention.
BLADE: What will you be doing at Politics and Prose?
WATERS: Well, probably a conversation with somebody and read a chapter and sign books. Like what I do everywhere. It’s always “a conversation with.” It’s basically a free lecture tour.
BLADE: As opposed to Atomic Books in Baltimore, where it’s primarily a book signing.
WATERS: That is usually the biggest one in the whole country, which is pretty amazing. That tiny bookshop, on the last two books, I think, sold even more than Barnes and Noble in New York.
BLADE: For your “Carsick” book-signing there, it was raining and the line was around the block.
WATERS: That bookstore, I get all my fan mail there. It’s really a great place, so I’m all for it.
BLADE: Does your book have any bombshells in it? Landing Tab Hunter for “Polyester?” Not casting Brad Pitt when he auditioned?
WATERS: That’s not up to me to say. The only thing I could think in there, maybe, is the [taking] LSD thing, in a way. That’s the stunt of the book. That’s something that I did that I thoroughly enjoyed. I think if there’s a sentimental chapter in the book about friendship, then maybe that is that. If I had known how strong the LSD was that I took, I probably would have been uptight. But I didn’t and it was great. I spent eight months getting the right acid from the purest source I could find, practically from Timothy Leary’s asshole. The Blade can print that. But the provenance of it was high and it was great. I don’t have to ever do it again. Just like I don’t have to ever hitchhike across the country again. Why would I? I did it. I don’t know if that’s newsworthy, but that would be, maybe.
BLADE: You had a big build-up about it in the book: We don’t know what this is going to do to us. And then you stopped hallucinating and it was OK and the sun rose…
WATERS: It was more than OK. It was great. I never had a bad experience when I was young, or I probably would have never done it. What I wanted to see is, what is it like to do it now, when I’m 70 years old? I certainly would never imagine that many 70-year-olds try to take acid. Especially if you haven’t done it since you were young.
BLADE: Do people still take LSD?
WATERS: Oh yeah. All the young people now do micro-doses. All the people that work in Google. All the tech kids take teeny doses of it. But not many 70-year-olds take it. People I know don’t take it.
BLADE: You write that you tried to get transgender pioneer Christine Jorgensen in a movie. That’s something probably a lot of people don’t know. You’ve sprinkled in all kinds of things that are going to be part of your lore.
WATERS: There are lots of things that people don’t know. But I don’t know that that means it’s Stop the Press. Most everything in the book is probably new information to most people.
BLADE: Who do you wish had been in one of your movies but never was?
WATERS: Always Meryl Streep. But I would have had to stop her from doing a Baltimore accent. And she would have done it brilliantly.
BLADE: Did you have a part for her?
WATERS: You know, at times, any of those movies she could have been in, yeah. We’ve met before, maybe a couple of times, at parties. She’s lovely. But she didn’t say, “Oh, I’ve been dying to work with you.”
BLADE: Roseanne Barr has come up.
WATERS: Well, Roseanne, when I dealt with her, she was a liberal. Completely. Yes, she came up a couple of times. I was friendly with her.
BLADE: For “Serial Mom?”
WATERS: Yeah. “And A Dirty Shame.” She was possible for that at one point. So, I was always friends with a liberal. I did her show and everything. Traci Lords was on her show. Who knows? I don’t know. I guess she’s just on the Internet too much.
BLADE: Who was the greatest delight to work with?
WATERS: They all were a delight, in a way. I mean, making movies is horrible. I say that in the book. Basically, it’s not fun, because there’s so much pressure and you have to do something every day and we’re not going to get this shot and it’s going to be over budget. But they all were team players. That’s what I can say they were.
Somebody said about my mother after she died: She was game. And they were game. They had to be game, to come with us, come to Baltimore, especially joining a group of people that had known each other for 30 years, a lot of them. I didn’t have any trouble with any of them. They were pros. But we were pros to them. I think I was prepared. I knew what to do. It wasn’t like we mistreated them. And they sort of got into the spirit of it.
BLADE: Would you do a word association? Kathleen Turner.
WATERS: A pro. Still see her. Great actress. Stage. Screen. Movies. She could play men, women, anybody with great conviction.
BLADE: Johnny Depp from “Cry-Baby.”
WATERS: I’m on his new album, I hear. I’m not sure how. I remember I talked to him on the phone with Alice Cooper recently and he said, “Say this.” I don’t remember what I said, so I guess they put it in the album like when I did in The Creep [a song with Nicki Minaj]. Johnny Depp was always a pro with me.
BLADE: Tab Hunter.
WATERS: Well, he voted for Reagan, you know. He used to shock me. He was for Trump, too. He used to laugh when he told me, because he knew how crazy it made me. I love Tab. You know, that’s the thing. He was from a different era. Completely from a different era.
BLADE: Was he like Rock Hudson?
WATERS: Rock Hudson, I don’t know if he was a Republican. Tab, I think was always a Republican. Oh yeah, he was in the closet forever. He had to be. It was illegal. You know. He was loved by every woman in America. It would have ruined his career. And he wrote about all that in his book.
BLADE: Did he write about you?
WATERS: Yeah. He was lovely. I stayed friends with him right up until the end. I just talked to his husband recently. Tab was great. He was a team player too. Lovely to Divine. Matter of fact, he liked the experience so much he went and made a movie with Divine afterwards, called “Lust in the Dust.”
BLADE: Andy Warhol?
WATERS: I remember him at the Baltimore Museum of Art meeting Edith [Massey] and saying, where did you find her? And he was very supportive. He took Fellini to see “Pink Flamingos.” He put Divine on the cover of Interview. He was always supportive.
BLADE: Mink Stole. You named her?
WATERS: Her real name is Nancy Stoll. S-t-o-l-l. I knew her forever. I met her in Provincetown. She was early in my films. She was a character actress, always. She usually played Divine’s enemy. We’ve been friends forever and ever. And I think she’s a really good actor. She still works all the time.
BLADE: Any way to sum up Divine, 31 years after his death?
WATERS: He gets more and more famous as the years go by. And he’d still rather be here. He’d be pissed he’s dead. I’m still shocked he’s dead. I still am. That’s still a shock. But, it’s kind of amazing. Well, we’re all being buried in the same graveyard where he is, you know, all my friends. Obviously, he is still with us.
BLADE: You’ve been good to the guys who commissioned the Divine mural in Baltimore, Jesse Salazar and Tom Williams.
WATERS: They were lovely. Why wouldn’t I be?
BLADE: Your book has only one chapter that’s named after a female.
WATERS: Betsy.
BLADE: The finger-painting chimp from the Baltimore zoo. You reveal this life-long love affair that you’ve kept secret until now.
WATERS: Well, I didn’t have sex with Betsy. I want to make sure that people understand that.
BLADE: You wrote a chapter about her appearances on TV and about The Golden Age of Monkey Art, which she inspired.
WATERS: I just remembered her in that dress and getting national attention and being all over the country. She was on Garry Moore, who was from Baltimore, too.
BLADE: In the last chapter, you write about death and dying, specifically about your death. You try to imagine what happens after you die, and you go back and visit your first apartment at 315 E. 25th Street in Baltimore. Why so morbid?
WATERS: Is it morbid? I don’t think it’s morbid. I think, who at 70-some years old doesn’t think about that?
BLADE: Why such a potential downer?
WATERS: You think it’s a downer? I don’t think it’s a downer… I think everybody at 73 [thinks about death], and I think my friends think about it more than I do. I don’t think about it that much. But you can’t help it when you go to funerals and you think, I am 73, you know, something is going to get you. So I tried to just imagine beating it, how I could be such a control freak that I would refuse to die. And I do always dream about that apartment, so it is just a fantasy of what happens after you die.
But it was to me dealing with the one subject that you’re really not supposed to joke about or kind of focus on. To think about it was sort of liberating in a way, to go through the whole thing. Except that I want to be sure that just because I write something here to be funny, it doesn’t mean that I want my heirs to follow every single thing. Like I say in there, I don’t want something funny on my tombstone. So, I don’t know. I thought it was optimistic. I beat death in it in a way, spiritually at least. That’s optimistic.
BLADE: How is your health?
WATERS: My health is fine.
BLADE: You didn’t write the book to fight death?
WATERS: Well, you write all books to fight death. I mean, I’ve never been as busy as I am. I have more projects than I’ve ever had in my entire life.
BLADE: You don’t name in the book any kind of significant other or life partner.
WATERS: And I never would. Because every person I’ve ever been involved with …doesn’t want to be public. I wouldn’t want somebody that would want to do the red carpet with me. I don’t want a groupie. I don’t want a fan. I want somebody that has their own life.
BLADE: Do you have a partner?
WATERS: Yes, I do.
BLADE: Is that in the book?
WATERS: Obliquely.
BLADE: You don’t want to say who it is?
WATERS: If you don’t keep some things private, you don’t have a personal life. It’s the same thing I say, I have some restaurant receipts that are not tax-deductible. That means I have a personal life. When I read celebrities are telling everything, I think, don’t you have any friends?
BLADE: Your book is so wide ranging it makes one wonder what you’re saving for the next one. After “Mr. Know-It-All,” what is there to write about?
WATERS: Do I have any stories left? Well, I’m writing a novel. I’m on page 64. So, yes, there’s stuff to write about.
BLADE: Is that why your next book is fiction, because you’ve exhausted the autobiography?
WATERS: I’ve written 17 movies. They‘re fiction. The first part of “Carsick” was fiction, too, except that I was in it. That makes it a lot easier. I had never written a novel, so I wanted to try it.
BLADE: Are you ever going to slow down?
WATERS: I hope not. I don’t need to slow down. I like what I’m doing. I don’t know. I guess when I drop dead, I’ll have to.
a&e features
He loves Annie’s and will until the end
Mano continues to bring infectious passion to his job at iconic restaurant
It’s rare for a restaurant to thrive for more than 75 years. Rarer still is a restaurant whose history is so deeply intertwined with the growth and resilience of a minority community. Annie’s Paramount Steakhouse in Washington, D.C.’s Dupont Circle is one of those exceptional places — a cornerstone not only for the city of Washington, but also for its vibrant queer community.
Several factors contribute to a restaurant like Annie’s becoming a foundational space of cultural and historical significance. Its welcoming atmosphere, fostered by a warm and inclusive staff goes beyond mere hospitality. The decor doesn’t just acknowledge Washington’s LGBTQ community — it proudly celebrates it. And, of course, the award-winning food and drinks leave a lasting impression, making Annie’s a true icon in the nation’s capital.
When walking down 17th Street, where Annie’s is located after 76 years (even after moving three blocks north of its original location on 17th in 1985), it becomes understandable how this stretch of street has always been the heart of the “gayborhood,” regardless of season or political administration. The rainbow flags on nearly every light pole and stickers in nearly every window signal this place is not only a safe space for the LGBTQ community, but a place where being queer is worth celebrating.
Annie’s Paramount Steakhouse has long been a beacon of unwavering support for the LGBTQ community, particularly during times when openly identifying as LGBTQ was met with societal stigma or worse. This dedication, which started back in 1948, has cemented Annie’s as more than just a restaurant — it’s a queer haven and cultural landmark.
Georgia Katinas, the general manager of Annie’s and granddaughter of Annie’s founder George Katinas, told the Blade supporting the D.C. LGBTQ community is a key part of running Annie’s.
“I see Annie’s as a pillar of the LGBTQ community, and it’s important to me to continue that legacy,” said Katinas. “Getting involved in our community in many different facets, supporting LGBTQ nonprofits and organizations, hosting kickball brunches, hiring LGBTQ/queer members of the community — all of that’s incredibly important to me, and it’s an honor. I take the family legacy very seriously, and I really am proud to continue it and to show up on behalf of my family and on behalf of the community and continue to be here.”
One of Annie’s unique legacies is its connection to the High Heel Drag Race, a beloved LGBTQ event on the Tuesday before Halloween. It started as a race between Annie’s and gay bar JR.’s in 1986, and has grown into a vibrant mini Pride celebration on 17th Street now managed by the mayor’s office.
Although it takes a collective effort to transform Annie’s into the James Beard Award-winning restaurant it is today, one server has stood out for decades. Since 1975, his infectious attitude and heartfelt care have made him a cornerstone of the Annie’s experience, drawing loyal customers back time and again.
Mano, with his instantly recognizable horseshoe mustache and ever-present smile, has been a key part of the institution that is Annie’s for as long as most regulars can remember. Hired as the first male staff member in 1975, Mano has remained a key face for the restaurant going back to when Annie herself served food on the dining room floor.
“We treat every customer like a member of our family,” Mano told the Blade during a recent interview discussing his lengthy career in the restaurant. “Ninety-nine percent of the people feel like regulars, and that 1 percent are on their way to becoming them.”
For 49 years, Mano has been a beloved fixture at Annie’s, his passion for the job evident to everyone around him — from coworkers behind the bar to guests in the booths. Known for gestures like cutting steaks for diners, Mano’s dedication once saw him working seven days a week, a testament to his love for being part of the Annie’s team.
“I feel every day better than the day before,” he said. “I love the people more than the day before. I look forward to loving them more. I can’t predict the future. The past is experience. Right now, at the moment, I am enjoying it.”
Despite his glowing appreciation for Annie’s, Mano has had to cut back from working at the restaurant as much as he once did. As he has grown older, Mano has slowly taken a day or two off from his work schedule.
Katinas became emotional when reflecting on Mano’s history with the restaurant.
“He wants the guests to have the perfect experience,” Katinas said. “He takes training very seriously. He has his own systems for how he counts money and uses the computer. He’s very particular but always so kind about it. When I watch him train new people now, I remember when he trained me. It’s very intentional and intense in moments because he cares so much.”
Mano’s presence and unwavering commitment to delivering impeccable service at Annie’s elevates him above many in the food service industry. His contributions also reinforce Annie’s cornerstone role in Washington’s queer history. When asked what sets his legacy—and by extension, Annie’s legacy within the LGBTQ community—apart from that of a server at any other restaurant, one word stood out in his response: respect.
“Give yourself some respect,” Mano said. “Give them [the customers] all the respect you want for yourself. If you cannot respect yourself, you cannot respect anyone else. I am a mirror reflecting you. When you are sitting at the table, I am a mirror reflecting you.”
Katinas explained Mano’s passion for Annie’s is infectious and has helped shape the culture of the restaurant. She also explained that his passion reflects how Annie ran the restaurant in years prior, with caring about people at its center.
“He takes young servers under his wing,” Katinas explained. “He takes busboys who don’t speak the shared language, and he treats them with such compassion and generosity. Annie was someone who would always sit and talk with you. She would put her hand on your shoulder and really listen. And Mano does that too.”
“We’re all busy, we’re all running around, but Mano really will sit and take the time to get to know you and to listen to your troubles or happy moments, anything,” Katinas added. “He makes sure, even if he’s across the restaurant and someone walks in the door, he’ll yell ‘Welcome in!’ The sense of hospitality is in his blood.”
Not only is he one of the most passionate people in Annie’s at any given moment, but Katinas also highlighted that he cares about the people and history of Annie’s in a truly unique way.
“He’s like the lighthouse captain,” she said, tearing up and smiling. “He has to be tethered to the building. He doesn’t get too far from it and is like, ‘No, no, I’m going to be at my post.’ He’s always there in the front, and everyone knows to expect him there.”
“He’s got a heart bigger than his entire body,” bar manager Scott Paxton chimed in. “He would do anything for just about anybody. He’s the first one to get here, he’s the last one to leave. He’s the most dedicated out of all of them. He’s always offering to help.”
“For a lot of us, he’s the first person that we met,” Paxton added. “This place has been here for a long time with a long legacy, but he is a big part of that legacy. And so you wander in here for the first time and he’s the person that you meet first.”
“You don’t know where to sit or who’s who, but you probably end up sitting with Mano in his section and so it sort of becomes like your home base,” he said. “There are hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of people that come through here and that’s their first contact with anyone and people that request him. And 40 years later, they come in on Wednesday night and they want to see him.”
Mano’s final thoughts about the restaurant reflected what multiple staff and guests have made clear — he loves Annie’s and will until the end.
“I wish them the best success,” Mano said pointing to Katinas, Paxton, and other staff working at the bar. “And they’re going to have it thanks to everybody, all these years of support for this place.”
a&e features
Local LGBTQ chefs share favorite Thanksgiving recipes
Happy holidays from Jamie Leeds, Patrick O’Connell, Mr. Bake and more
Delightful dishes and cool cocktails are at least one guaranteed way to bring joy to Thanksgiving when the season may look challenging. This year, we asked prominent local LGBTQ chefs, mixologists, sommeliers, and restaurateurs to offer recipes and suggestions for Thanksgiving.
Jamie Leeds, Hank’s Oyster Bar
This recipe is the ultimate ode to Chesapeake Bay oysters, using both the oyster and its juice (known as the liquor) to season the stuffing. Leeds is a pioneer in the restaurant industry in Washington, D.C., and was also a a former Washington Blade Most Eligible Single.
Chesapeake Oyster Stuffing
(8 servings)
1 pint (approx. 24) Shucked Chesapeake oysters with liquor
1 cup Celery, small dice
1 cup Yellow onion, small dice
1 stick Butter
1 tsp Salt
1/2 tsp Old Bay seasoning
1/8 tsp Tarragon, fresh
1/8 tsp Thyme, fresh
1/2 tsp Lemon juice
4 Cups Bread, day old, 1”cubes
3 Tbsp Parsley, fresh, chopped
2 Each Eggs, beaten with 2 T water
Steps:
Strain oysters, reserving their liquid. Place oysters in a large mixing bowl with the cubed bread. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Coat the inside of a 2-quart (or slightly larger) baking dish with cooking spray.
In a 10-inch sauté pan, melt the butter and add celery and onions. Cook on medium heat until vegetables are tender, about five minutes. Add salt, thyme, tarragon and Old Bay seasoning, stir to incorporate. Add reserved oyster liquor and cook for 2-3 minutes. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature. Once cool pour over oysters and bread. Mix gently until moistened.
Gently fold in the eggs, lemon juice and parsley until fully incorporated. Transfer to the baking dish, cover and bake for about 30 minutes, then remove the foil and bake for another 10 to 15 minutes, until top is browned. Can be prepared 1-2 days in advance and kept refrigerated before baking. Tip: If you do not have day-old bread, place cubed bread on a baking sheet and put in a 350 degree oven for about 10-15 minutes until the bread is crusty on the outside. Let cool completely before adding oysters.
Mr. Bake’s Award-Winning Banana Pudding
Kareem “Mr. Bake” Queeman is famous for not only his fabulous presence on social media and reality TV, but also his Banana Pudding, which is the perfect addition to your holiday table. In this recipe, the James Beard semifinalist baker and owner of Mr. Bake Sweets shares his award-winning banana pudding recipe that helped Kareem win his first-ever competition as a baker (the first of many!), and showcase it on the “Kelly Clarkson Show” this past Easter. This is Kareem’s variation on a Southern family recipe passed down by his late aunt Janet Wills.
This holiday dessert is a delicious combination of easy to find and affordable grocery store ingredients, and even includes an option to use store-bought pudding mix if you’re in a time crunch (just make sure to save time to put your pudding in the fridge). Just keep in mind that you’ll need to chilled a bowl in advance and a standard mixer to make sure you get that perfect fluffy texture in the pudding. If you’re feeling extra ambitious, you can make a homemade whipped topping or spring for store-bought in a pinch to add as a final topping on your pudding. Serve in bowls or eat it straight out of the bowl (we won’t judge) this pudding is sure to impress all season long.
Technique Tip:
● Make sure you chill your bowl and mixer attachments before whipping your
heavy cream into cream. This helps ensure the heavy cream whips up nice
and high, and won’t take as much time.
● Make sure the bowl isn’t touching the water when placing your custard bowl
over the double boiler. You’re using just the steam to cook, dissolve and
double your custard in volume.
● Temper your eggs into the cream make sure you add about a cup of the hot
into the egg mixture. This helps make sure you don’t cook and scramble eggs.
Swap Option:
● You can use all heavy cream or whole milk for Half and Half. (Half and Half is
equal parts heavy cream and whole milk)
● You can use Cool Whip if you don’t have heavy cream to make whipped cream
(use about 3 to 4 cups of Cool Whip)
Serving Size: Serves 12 to 15 people
Yield: Makes about 5 to 6 cups of custard.
Prep Time: Custard 6-8 minutes for cook and prep, 2 hour- overnight for chilling
3-6 minutes to whip and blend in custard into the sweeten whipped cream
6-10 minutes to assemble
30 min chill time in the fridge once everything is layered
Cook Time: 6-8 minutes
Serve and keep chilled and enjoy.
Hand mixer/stand mixer
Banana Pudding Trifle (From Scratch)
● 8 large egg yolks
● ½ cup granulated sugar
● 6 tablespoons cornstarch
● ½ teaspoon kosher salt
● 3 cups half & half
● 2 tablespoons pure vanilla extract
● 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
● 14 oz can condensed milk
● 2 cups heavy cream
● 3 tablespoon confectioners sugar
● Vanilla wafer cookies 3 to 5 standard boxes (Nabisco preferred)
● 4-5 large bananas, sliced
● Optional: Whipped cream for topping
Preparation:
1. In a large heatproof bowl, whisk together egg yolks, sugar, cornstarch and
salt until well blended. The mixture will be thick and pale in color. Set aside.
2. In a medium saucepan, heat the half & half to a rolling boil (do not actually
boil). Remove pot from the heat.
3. Whisk 1 cup of the half and half into the egg-yolk mixture. Mix until
combined, then whisk in the rest of the half and half.
4. Set the bowl over a pot of simmering water (make sure the bottom of the
bowl doesn’t touch the water in the pot). Cook and whisk constantly, until the
mixture has thickened, 5 to 7 minutes.
5. Remove the bowl from the heat and whisk in vanilla until combined. Let the
mixture sit and cool, 2 to 3 minutes.
6. Whisk in the butter until it is melted and the pudding is smooth and silky.
7. Place a piece of plastic wrap directly on top of the pudding and let cool to
room temperature, about 30 minutes to an hour.
8. Whisk in the condensed milk and chill for 2 hours or overnight.
9. In the bowl of a standard mixer, use the whisk attachment to whip the heavy
cream on medium speed until it starts to thicken. Add the sugar and beat
until the cream holds stiff peaks. (Whipped cream should stand straight up
and stand in place when you remove your attachments.
10. Add the chilled pudding custard to the sweetened whipped cream, gently
folding it into each other.
11. To assemble the trifle, spoon 1/3 of the pudding into a glass trifle bowl. Top
with sliced bananas then wafer cookies. Repeat this process ending with
custard at the top, then add fresh sliced bananas, crushed wafer cookies and
fresh whipped cream (optional) as décor.
Executive Chef Harley Peet, Bas Rouge
As a longtime resident of the Eastern Shore and an avid waterman, seafood naturally takes center stage in Peet’s dishes. Holidays conjure warmth, and the very essence of comfort food is the pot pie. On the Eastern Shore, where salty air mingles with generations of watermen’s tales, the choice was clear. Sweet, tender lobster and delicate sea scallops elevate this timeless classic, where rustic tradition meets refined flavor and presentation in a dish that captures a sense of place.
Scallop and Lobster Pot Pie on a Scallop Shell
Yield: 4 servings
• 1 sheet puff pastry, cut into quarter-size circles
• 1 each egg
• 1 tablespoon milk
• 5 slices smokey bacon, cut into half-inch pieces
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1/2 cup celery, small diced
• 1/2 cup onion, small diced
• 1/2 cup carrots, small diced
• 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 1 quart heavy whipping cream, cold
• To taste pepper, freshly ground
• To taste lemon, juiced
• 2 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated
• 1 each lemon, sliced into wedges
• Salt to taste
• 4 each large sea scallops, raw and sliced into quarters [ask for scallop shells]
• 2 each [2.5 lbs.] steamed lobster, diced into half inch pieces
• Parmesan cheese, grated, to taste
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. In a small mixing bowl, beat the egg and add the milk to create an egg wash. Place the quarter-size circles of puff pastry on a baking sheet and brush the puff pastry with the egg wash. Bake in the oven for 12-15 minutes, or until the pastry is puffed and golden brown. Set the puff pastry aside.
Brown the bacon in a heavy-bottom Dutch oven or saucepan, such as Le Creuset or Staub. Once the bacon is browned, remove it from the Dutch oven and set it aside. Do not discard the bacon fat. Add the butter to the bacon fat in the Dutch oven. Add the celery, onion, and carrot to the pot, and sweat out the vegetables until they are translucent and soft. Take the Dutch oven with the vegetables off of the heat and sprinkle the flour over the vegetables to make a roux. Return the Dutch oven with the roux to the stove over medium heat. Add the cold heavy whipping cream and whisk to remove roux balls. Season the mixture with freshly ground pepper, to taste, and a squeeze of lemon juice, to taste, for a bit of acidity. Simmer the mixture until it gets thick. Once the mixture has thickened, remove it from the heat. Fold in the scallops and lobster into the mixture. Grate the Parmesan cheese into the mixture and stir to incorporate all ingredients. Set the mixture aside, and let it cool in the refrigerator. To note – the mixture can be made up to a couple of days in advance and kept in the refrigerator. (Add the seafood after to extend the lifetime of the mixture or use it immediately.)
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Arrange the scallop shell on a flat baking tray. If needed, arrange with some salt or oven-safe ware to hold the shells upright, in order to keep them from tipping over and losing the topping mixture [they will not fall or warp]. Scoop a [generous] tablespoon of the cold mixture into a scallop shell and top it with a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese. Bake in the oven until the cheese is bubbling and golden brown, or approximately 6-8 minutes. Top each stuffed scallop shell with a pre-baked puff pastry round. Garnish with lemon wedges and serve.
Chef Patrick O’Connell, Inn at Little Washington
Chef Patrick O’Connell, renowned for his three Michelin stars at The Inn at Little Washington, is excited to share one of his beloved recipes for the holiday season.
For nearly four decades, a shot of this soup was served as the first course on The Inn at Little Washington’s tasting menu during the winter months. This beloved classic from Chef Patrick O’Connell found a new life at Patty O’s Café and has been touted as “The world’s most refined version of bean soup.” Pureeing the beans and adding a touch of cream makes for a delicate soup, but all the hearty flavors remain intact. The best of both worlds, and a perfect beginning for a fall or cold weather dinner.
White Bean Soup with Virginia Country Ham
Ingredients (serves 8)
• 1/2 pound dried Cannellini or Great Northern Beans
• 5 strips of bacon
• 2 medium onions, coarsely chopped
• 5 leeks, chopped and thoroughly cleaned
• 1 cup chopped celery
• 4 bay leaves
• 4 quarts chicken stock, preferably homemade
• 1 ham bone (optional)
• 2 cups heavy cream
• Salt and cayenne pepper to taste
• Optional garnishes: shaved country ham; fresh cream, whipped; cracked black pepper; minced chives
Directions:
1. In a medium saucepan, cover the beans with cool water and soak overnight.
2. In an 8 quart stock pot, cook the bacon over medium high heat until browned. Add the onion, leeks, celery, and bay leaves and cook until the vegetables are tender, about 15 minutes.
3. Drain and rinse the beans and add them to the stock pot along with the heated stock and ham bone (if using). Simmer until the beans are very soft, about 1 hour.
4. Remove the ham bone and bay leaves from the soup. Puree the soup in small batches in a blender or food processor and strain.
5. Return the soup to the heat and add the cream. If the soup is too thick, add more stock or cream. Season with salt and cayenne.
6. At Patty O’s Café, we pour the soup tableside over a bed of shaved local Virginia ham, and garnish with fresh cream whipped with cracked black pepper and fresh chives.
Jonathan Dearden, KNEAD Corporate Chef
KNEAD, one of the largest D.C.-based restaurant groups, is owned by gay couple Jason Berry and Michael Reginbogin.
Chef Dearden’s favorite recipe from the Succotash Prime menu that is perfect for Thanksgiving: “Gochujang Brussels Sprouts on our Succotash Prime menu is one of my favorite unique Thanksgiving sides. At the restaurant we fry in the deep fryer. This recipe has been adjusted to use an Air Fryer.”
Air Fried Gochujang Brussels Sprouts
Gochujang Vinaigrette
• 380g gochujang (hot)
• 150g orange juice
• 20g garlic, minced
• 30g ginger, minced
• 20g Fresno chilies, finely chopped
• 100g lime juice
• 100g rice wine vinegar
• 10g salt
• 750g canola or vegetable oil (approx. 1 quart)
In a blender or food processor, combine gochujang, orange juice, garlic, ginger, Fresno chilies, lime juice, rice wine vinegar, and salt. Blend until smooth.
With the blender running, slowly stream in the canola or vegetable oil to emulsify. Adjust seasoning if needed.
For Plate-Up
• 500g Brussels sprouts (about 1 pint)
• 50g gochujang vinaigrette
• 15g garlic chili crunch
• 3g sesame seeds (white and black, mixed)
• 3g scallions, sliced
• Salt and black pepper, to taste
Preheat air fryer to 400°F (200°C).
Toss the Brussels sprouts with a small amount of oil (just enough to lightly coat them) and season with a pinch of salt.
Place the Brussels sprouts in the air fryer basket in a single layer. Cook for 12-15 minutes, shaking the basket halfway through, until the sprouts are golden brown and crispy.
Transfer the air-fried Brussels sprouts to a large bowl. Drizzle with 50g of the gochujang vinaigrette, tossing lightly to coat but keeping them crispy. Season with salt and black pepper as needed.
Plate the Brussels sprouts in a serving bowl and garnish with garlic chili crunch, sesame seeds, and sliced scallions.
Anthony Aligo, Barkada Wine Bar
Aligo Aligo and business partners Nicholas Guglietta and Nathan Fisher, all gay men, founded their cozy wine bar in late 2020. They are offering two recipes this season: mushroom stuffing and a cranberry royale drink.
Mushroom Stuffing
This savory and earthy dish is perfect for Thanksgiving, featuring tender mushrooms, aromatic herbs, and hearty bread. It’s an excellent alternative or complement to traditional stuffing, especially for vegetarians or mushroom lovers. The dish balances rich flavors and comforting textures, making it a great side that pairs well with other Thanksgiving favorites like turkey, gravy, and cranberry sauce. With its umami depth and seasonal ingredients, this stuffing brings warmth and variety to the holiday table.
Mushroom Stuffing
Ingredients
• 12 cups of one-inch dried bread cubes or dried stuffing mix
• 1/2 cup salted butter
• 2 onions
•1 cup celery
•1 clove garlic
•1/2 lb of your favorite mushrooms
• 2 cups chicken or turkey broth
•1/3 cup fresh parsley
• 2 tsp fresh rosemary
Melt butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add sliced mushrooms, onions, celery and minced garlic. Cook until tender. Pour in chicken/turkey stock. Add minced parsley and rosemary and salt and pepper to your liking. Let simmer for 1-2 minutes.
Add bread cubes to a large bowl. Pour the mixture in a bowl and mix. Stuffing should be moist but not mushy. If not moist enough, add water.
Grease a 2-quart baking dish. Add stuffing. Bake for 40-50 minutes at 375 until stuffing is slightly browned on top.
Cranberry Royale
This drink is a festive and refreshing cocktail, perfect for Thanksgiving celebrations. With a blend of tart cranberry juice, a hint of orange, and a splash of dry Lambrusco, it offers a beautiful balance of flavors and a light, sparkling finish. The cranberry brings a seasonal twist, while the Lambrusco adds effervescence, making it an ideal aperitif to start the holiday. Its bright red hue adds a festive touch to the Thanksgiving table, celebrating the flavors and colors of the season.
• 0.5 oz Vodka
• 0.5 oz Orange Juice
• 1.5 oz Cranberry Juice
• 3.0 oz Lambrusco (dry)
Shake the cranberry, orange, and vodka with ice, and strain into a flute or coupe. Top with Lambrusco and garnish with orange peel.
a&e features
Should gay snowbirds cancel Florida amid anti-LGBTQ attacks?
The ethics of soaking up the sun while DeSantis targets our own
The sunny state of Florida has long been a draw for many members of the LGBTQ community, particularly those from cold Northeast states who flock there in winter.
With temperatures cooling off, the annual migration is underway, despite Florida Gov. Ron DeSantis and his agenda attacking queer rights. Florida’s hostile environment has a long history, including the failed attempt by Anita Bryant to keep gay teachers out of the Miami school district some 40 years ago.
That homophobic tradition continues. In addition to the current administration’s draconian “Don’t Say Gay” law, and DeSantis’s threats to Disney World in Orlando, the LGBTQ section was recently removed from the Visit Florida website.
Travel is perhaps the most important industry for much of Florida, especially the Southeast and many gay couples decide to retire to the land of eternal summer permanently. Then there are those who flock to “winter” in the state.
Tony Adams is a journalist, editor, playwright, and former contributor to the South Florida Gay News. In 2016, he published a book, “Ending Anita: How Two Key West Bartenders Won Gay Marriage for Florida.” He and his husband spend time there every winter. But he finally had enough.
“I didn’t like paying taxes to the DeSantis administration,” he said. “I sold my place in Fort Lauderdale.”
But he cautions against an all out boycott of the state.
“If we desert Florida now, we are depriving our LGBTQ+ businesses of the revenue they need to stay alive,” he said. “For that reason, I still visit Florida whenever I can, especially Key West and stay at the Island House. … Florida has a long tradition of homophobia in politics. In my book I assembled timelines of hatred going back to the 1977 campaign of Anita Bryant against gay teachers in public schools. Floridians get angry and then come to their senses, but maybe it’s just the flatness of the Florida terrain that allows that pendulum to swing more violently than in other states.”
The Blade reached out to several gay snowbirds from the Northeast for comment for this story; all declined to comment.
Ed Salvato, a leader in LGBTQ marketing and education for the tourism and hospitality industry, weighed in on the deletion of the LGBTQ tourism page.
“The removal felt like erasure, it also felt gratuitous,” Salvato said. “What harm was that information doing to anyone? I speak to many tourism and hospitality professionals as well as frequent travelers, almost all of whom were dismayed and angered by these actions.”
Anecdotally, Salvato said he has heard from friends who are fed up and want to move out. Those who visit frequently are rethinking their upcoming visit to the Sunshine State, he said.
“Recently, I spoke to a woman in Florida very active in hospitality and the diversity, equity, and inclusion space who said she just heard from a large conference of mostly African Americans from Historic Black Colleges and Universities who are canceling their big annual conference there,” Salvato said. “Since they feel that these anti-LGBTQ actions as well as others feel racist. Like the attack on ‘critical race theory’ teaching and attacks on DEI create an unsafe environment for their constituents. This is not good for the economy or reputation of Visit Florida.” He added, this will “take a long time to repair.”
On those like Adams who sold their property but still visit, Salvato notes, “In fact that actually feels like a better reaction than friends who are boycotting the state entirely. To me that makes no sense. The folks in the capital will still draw their salary whether or not you visit your favorite gay guesthouse in Florida. However, the gay owners of that guesthouse or the queer staff will suffer so your boycott hurts the very community who you wish to protect.”
The sheer number of queer people, especially young gay men often escaping hostile families when they graduate high school or before, who find work in the nightlife industry is staggering. Each June, throngs of these young men arrive hoping to find a welcoming community, a job, and a sunny beach.
“In the instance you cite,” meaning snowbirds who may wish to sell property and visit long-term, “this shifts the benefits around the state so that’s better than a boycott but I think the best thing we can do is to go and support those destinations and suppliers that are daring to continue to reach out to LGBTQ travelers despite the signals sent out by the conservative state government.”
Nadine Smith, executive director of Equality Florida, took a similar stance as Salvato. How much money does the state earn from the “gay dollar?” She said “billions.”
“The state not only disrespects a significant contributor to its tourism economy but also sends a dangerous and exclusionary message,” Smith said. “This wasn’t just a petty move — it’s part of a calculated campaign to push LGBTQ people out of public life in Florida. When questioned about why they did this, Visit Florida officials confirmed that this removal was done to align with DeSantis’s hostile policies and rhetoric toward the LGBTQ community.”
Like Salvato, Smith and Equality Florida recommend spending your dollars at LGBTQ-friendly businesses.
“Residents and visitors can also channel their economic influence toward companies that align with their values, sending a strong message that equality and inclusivity matter to them,” Smith said. “Equality Florida is a proud partner of Open To All, a growing coalition of businesses large and small that pledge to be welcoming and inclusive. Customers can search ‘open to all’ businesses on YELP, empowering us to vote with our dollars and support businesses that prioritize and actively advocate for LGBTQ rights.
“In Fort Lauderdale,” she added, “VisitLauderdale.com launched a new social media campaign, “No End to the Rainbows,” to reaffirm their commitment to promoting a welcoming and inclusive environment for all.”
D.C. Mayor’s Office of LGBTQ Affairs moving to new location
Calendar: December 6-12
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Photos5 days agoPHOTOS: World AIDS Day at the White House
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U.S. Supreme Court2 days agoSupreme Court hears oral arguments in pivotal gender affirming care case
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