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Anatomy of a victory

Behind the scenes of the Maryland marriage battle

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Question 6, same sex marriage, gay marriage, marriage equality, Maryland, gay news, Washington Blade

Question 6, Maryland, gay marriage, same sex marriage, marriage equality, gay news, Washington Blade

Question 6 supporters and opponents placed signs outside Northwood Elementary School in Baltimore on Nov. 6. (Washington Blade photo by Michael K. Lavers)

Edgewater, Md., residents Adri Eathorne and Kim-May Hinken arrived at Anne Arundel Medical Center in Annapolis to visit their friend, Scott Bowling, shortly before the polls closed at 8 p.m. on Election Day. The three of them nervously awaited the results of the referendum on Marylandā€™s same-sex marriage law as the slowly began to trickle in.

More than four hours later, they learned Question 6 had narrowly passed.

ā€œWe closed his hospital room door,ā€ Eathorne, who has been with Hinken nine years, says. ā€œWe closed his hospital room door so we could [yell] ā€˜Yeah!ā€™ and high-five each other and hug and kiss and cry.ā€

The passage of Question 6 by a 52-48 percent margin on Nov. 6 capped off an anxious night of waiting for the hundreds of people and dozens of reporters who had gathered at the Baltimore Soundstage.

One of Gov. Martin Oā€™Malleyā€™s staffers wrote on a napkin during lunch on Election Day that the referendum would pass with 53 percent support. Congressman Elijah Cummings made the same prediction during an interview with the Washington Blade earlier in the day outside a Northeast Baltimore polling place at which the governor, Baltimore Mayor Stephanie Rawlings-Blake and Brendon Ayanbadejo of the Baltimore Ravens greeted voters.

ā€œI had a pretty good sense as we were heading into Election Day that it was going to hold,ā€ Oā€™Malley said in a Blade interview this week. ā€œI had a pretty good sense in the course of those last 10 days that it was on a good positive trajectory.ā€

Josh Levin, campaign manager for Marylanders for Marriage Equality, was backstage with the governor, Rawlings-Blake and several other elected officials watching the results come in. President Obama had already won re-election by the time Politico reported shortly before midnight that Question 6 had passed with 84 percent of precincts reporting.

Levin and others remained hesitant to declare victory because Montgomery County had yet to report election results. (Question 6 passed in the county by a 65-35 percent margin.)

ā€œOnce we figured that out then I started breathing a little more deeply,ā€ Oā€™Malley says. ā€œThen when the Montgomery County numbers came in and we were up to 51 [percent,] the night seemed to be coming into perspective. We were very reluctant to claim a victory of course until we had enough of the numbers in.ā€

Levin last week, while cleaning out Marylanders for Marriage Equalityā€™s Baltimore office, says Question 6 was leading throughout the night.

ā€œWe watched it grow to 45,000 votes or so,ā€ he says. ā€œIt shrank at one point to about 12,000. But right around midnight we felt like we had a pretty good sense of where things were. And so I went back to talk through what still could happen, whatā€™s still out, where do we think thatā€™s coming from and made the decision to go up on stage and declare victory from there.ā€

ā€œThere was confidence once the results started to come in,ā€ says gay state Sen. Rich Madaleno (D-Montgomery County.) ā€œThere was confidence all night long, itā€™s just a matter of when do you say it. And because we had never won before, thereā€™s no desire to jinx yourself. I think youā€™re more cautious than you would have ever been.ā€

The Washington Post projected Question 6 had passed just as Oā€™Malley, Rawlings-Blake, Levin and others took to the stage to declare victory. Those gathered inside the Baltimore Soundstage became euphoric when lesbian state Del. Maggie McIntosh (D-Baltimore City) announced the referendum had passed. People began to cry. Gay state Dels. Luke Clippinger (D-Baltimore City) and Heather Mizeur (D-Montgomery County) were among those who started dancing once the governor and other dignitaries stepped away from the podium.

Oā€™Malley instrumental in fundraising

Election Day capped off a long and often tumultuous effort for Marylandā€™s same-sex marriage advocates that began in 1997 when three state lawmakers introduced the first bill that would have allowed nuptials for gays and lesbians.

Equality Maryland, which nearly closed in June 2011, and the American Civil Liberties Union in 2004 filed a lawsuit on behalf of Lisa Polyak and Gita Deane and eight other same-sex couples and a gay widow who sought the right to marry in the state. The Maryland Court of Appeals in 2007 ultimately upheld the constitutionality of the stateā€™s ban on marriage for gays and lesbians.

State lawmakers in 2011 narrowly defeated a same-sex marriage bill, but legislators approved it in February. Oā€™Malley signed the law on March 1.

Martin O'Malley, Question 6, Maryland, election 2012, gay marriage, same sex marriage, marriage equality, gay news, Washington Blade

Governor Martin O’Malley speaks to reporters outside Northwood Elementary School in Baltimore on Nov. 6. (Washington Blade photo by Michael K. Lavers)

The governor soon emerged as the lawā€™s most prominent supporter, especially after the Maryland Marriage Alliance collected more than 160,000 signatures to force a referendum on the issue. Marylanders for Marriage Equality turned to Oā€™Malley, among others, in early August to help bolster their then-anemic fundraising efforts.

ā€œWe found ourselves in a situation where polling looked good, we felt good about what we were building, but we simply werenā€™t bringing in money at the rate that we needed to,ā€ Levin says. ā€œWe as a campaign and with our board members we sort of rang the bell a little bit and talked to the governor, got Maggie McIntosh more involved. The ACLU redoubled their efforts. And I think brought to bear all the efforts that helped us [reach] the financial goals that we needed to.ā€

Levin said in June his group could effectively defend the law with between $5-$7 million, in spite of some observers who said Marylanders for Marriage Equality needed to raise up to $12 million.

Oā€™Malley headlined a star-studded fundraiser gay former Republican National Committee Chair Ken Mehlman co-hosted at a New York City hotel in September that raised more than $100,000 for the pro-Question 6 group. The governor also appeared at an Oct. 2 fundraiser with D.C. Mayor Vincent Gray and House Minority Whip Steny Hoyer (D-Md.) at gay Democratic lobbyist Steve Elmendorfā€™s Logan Circle home. Former National Football League Commissioner Paul Tagliabue and his wife Chan announced a $100,000 donation to Marylanders for Marriage Equality during the fundraiser that Chip DiPaula, Jr., former Gov. Bob Ehrlich, Jr.ā€™s gay chief-of-staff, attended alongside Mizeur and others.

The Human Rights Campaign contributed more than $1.5 million in cash and in-kind contributions to the pro-Question 6 campaign. Freedom to Marry, which initially declined to join the coalition defending the stateā€™s same-sex marriage law, said it invested more than $200,000 into the campaign. This figure includes the $70,000 it gave that helped Marylanders for Maryland Equality air their radio ad highlighting President Obamaā€™s support of marriage rights for same-sex couples in the days leading up to Election Day.

ā€œHRC provided so much of the backbone to this whole effort,ā€ Madaleno says. ā€œThey were absolutely critical.ā€

Marylanders for Marriage Equality ultimately raised $6 million ā€” they consistently outraised the Maryland Marriage Alliance throughout the Question 6 campaign. The ACLU and other organized labor groups contributed more than $1 million to Marylanders for Marriage Equality.

New York City Mayor Michael Bloomberg and Republican hedge fund manager Paul Singer both donated $250,000 to the pro-Question 6 campaign. The bulk of the 11,000 people who contributed to Marylanders for Marriage Equality, however, live in Maryland.

ā€œWe proved from going to the state that nobody thought could win to being the second-widest margin after Maine among the four is pretty cool,ā€ Levin says. ā€œAnd I want to really say the team that was here through the legislative campaign that figured out, that believed in doing Maryland when nobody else did ā€” the leadership of folks like Sultan [Shakir] and Kevin [Nix], Rich Madaleno and Luke Clippinger and all the others.ā€

One of the proudest moments of the campaign for Levin came when Marylanders for Marriage Equality was able to counter a Maryland Marriage Alliance television ad that claimed Question 6 would force schools to teach same-sex marriage with their own ad eight hours later that featured Baltimore County teacher Pamela Gaddy. Levin showed it to McIntosh, HRC President Chad Griffin, former Oā€™Malley adviser Joe Bryce and his wife Kristen and a handful of others shortly after he arrived at a campaign fundraiser at DiPaulaā€™s home before he put it on the air on Oct. 26.

ā€œWe were ready and able to do it that fast, versus the stories that so many other folks who worked in California [on the campaign against Proposition 8] told just having to figure it out there,ā€ Levin says. ā€œThe lessons they learned they gave us and we applied. And we took a Maryland angle on it, putting up an African-American, Baltimore-area schoolteacher to just go, ā€˜Thatā€™s not true, you know.ā€™ When we looked at it a week later, their argument wasnā€™t resonating. People just werenā€™t buying it, according to our research.ā€

Obama, NAACP endorsements key

Oā€™Malley, Levin and Mizeur all noted Obamaā€™s public support of marriage rights for gays and lesbians and his endorsement of the same-sex marriage law garnered additional support among black Marylanders.

In addition to the radio ad featuring the president, Marylanders for Marriage Equality also sent a mailing that contained his and first lady Michelle Obamaā€™s statements in support of marriage rights for same-sex couples to 200,000 African-American households in the state. (Baltimore Black Pride co-chair Meredith Moise was handing out these fliers on Election Day as she spoke with voters outside a polling place at a Northeast Baltimore elementary school.)

ā€œIt was important that we echoed their support,ā€ Levin says.

The NAACPā€™s support of Question 6 and particularly television ads that featured Julian Bond, the civil rights organizationā€™s chair emeritus, and Revs. Delman Coates of Mount Ennon Baptist Church in Clinton and DontĆ© Hickman of Southern Baptist Church in Baltimore appear to have resonated with voters in the predominantly black Charm City.

Question 6 passed by a 57-43 percent margin in Baltimore City. It lost by slightly more than 4,300 votes in Prince Georgeā€™s County.

A Public Policy Polling survey in May found 55 percent of black Marylanders would vote for the law, compared to 36 percent who said they would oppose it. A Hart Research Associates survey conducted in late July found 44 percent of African-American voters would support Question 6, compared to 45 percent who said they would vote against it. A Gonzales Research poll in September noted 44 percent of black Marylanders backed marriage rights for same-sex couples, compared to 52 percent who oppose nuptials for gays and lesbians. An Associated Press exit poll indicates roughly half of black Maryland voters voted against Question 6.

Maryland Marriage Alliance Chair Derek McCoy, Bishop Harry Jackson, Jr., of Hope Christian Church in Beltsville and others who opposed the law repeatedly criticized and even mocked the NAACP, Obama, Coates, Hickman and other prominent black leaders who backed marriage rights for same-sex couples in the state. Some Question 6 opponents resorted to increasingly homophobic rhetoric during appearances at black churches and other public forums in the weeks leading up to Election Day. Pastor Luke Robinson of Quinn Chapel AME Church in Frederick even suggested during a sparsely attended rally against the same-sex marriage law at a city park on Nov. 4 that Superstorm Sandy struck New York City less than three weeks after Bloomberg donated $250,000 to Marylanders for Marriage Equality.

ā€œIt pretty clearly was having an effect,ā€ Levin says. ā€œI donā€™t think the other guys would have been bringing it up as often if it hadnā€™t been.ā€

The Maryland State Conference of the NAACP and the organizationā€™s Prince Georgeā€™s County and Baltimore branches in particular factored prominently in the pro-Question 6 campaign.

Bob Ross, president of the Prince Georgeā€™s County Branch of the NAACP, organized phone banks and canvassing efforts ahead of Election Day. He also spoke about his gay brother who had lived in the closet for years during a Nov. 5 rally at the University of Maryland in College Park that Oā€™Malley, Hoyer, Madaleno, state Sen. Allan Kittleman (R-Carroll and Howard Counties) and others attended.

ā€œSurely we need to recognize not only the importance of their endorsement, but the amount of work that they did,ā€ Levin says.

Couples busy planning weddings

With all the behind-the-scenes work that led to the passage of Question 6, the only thing that matters to those who plan to take advantage of the law once it officially takes effect on Jan. 1 is the fact they can legally marry the person they love.

ā€œIt was kind of like, ā€˜Oh my God, what are we doing about our wedding plans?ā€™ā€ says ShaDonna Jackson, a Hyattsville, Md., resident who plans to wed her partner of nearly four years, Latisha Smith. ā€œWe needed absolute certainty because itā€™s a serious matter. Itā€™s like, ā€˜Oh my goodness everything depends on this, so we need to know.ā€™ And now that we know, we are back to our wedding plans.ā€

Eathorne and Hinken, who chairs the annual Chesapeake Pride Festival, are planning to get married in Annapolis on the first day same-sex couples can legally marry in the state.

ā€œWeā€™ve waited so long for it to be legal in our home state that we really wanted to do it as soon as possible,ā€ Eathorne says (they had a church wedding in 2007). Hinken also spoke in support of the same-sex marriage bill in front of the State House in Annapolis. ā€œWe just want to make that statement. And thatā€™s one of the reasons why we want it to be ASAP. Weā€™ve been together for nine years. We donā€™t need a big full-blown wedding. We had our thing. It is special and we do plan to acknowledge it and celebrate it in some way.ā€

Madaleno, who once again proposed to his husband Mark on stage at the Baltimore Soundstage after Question 6 passed, plans to have what he describes as their ā€œrenewal of vowsā€ once they and their two children return from a family vacation at Walt Disney World in Florida in January. The couple married 11 years ago at their Bethesda church, but Madaleno said having the legal recognition will make it even more official.

ā€œWhat will be different,ā€ he says, ā€œis weā€™re getting a license.ā€

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Theater

Jessica Phillips shines in ā€˜Penelope,ā€™ a ā€˜pandemic parableā€™

Alex Bechtel was inspired to write about loneliness, waiting, separation

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Jessica Phillips in ā€˜Penelopeā€™ at Signature Theatre. (Photo by Daniel Rader)

ā€˜Penelopeā€™
Thorough April 28
Signature Theatre, the Ark
4200 Campbell Ave, ArlingtonĀ 
$40-$99
Sigtheatre.org

In the new musical ā€œPenelope,ā€ Broadwayā€™s Jessica Phillips gives an unforgettable take on the title role torn from the pages of Homerā€™s ā€œOdysseyā€ ā€” more or less. Fortified by bourbon and backed by a Greek chorus of musicians, the character uncharacteristically steps out from the background to share her story surrounding two decades waiting on the island kingdom of Ithica for the return of her absent husband Odysseus.Ā 

Sometimes described as a ā€œpandemic parable,ā€ the 70-minute work is based on composer/playwright Alex Bechtelā€™s personal experience. While separated from his partner during COVID, he was inspired to write about loneliness, waiting, and separation, a subject Phillips was eager to tackle. 

An accomplished Broadway actor and mother of two, Phillips, 52, is best known for memorable turns in ā€œDear Evan Hansen,ā€ ā€œThe Scarlet Pimpernel,ā€ ā€œNext to Normal,ā€ and ā€œPriscilla Queen of the Desert.ā€ 

Two years ago, she made news for coming out as queer after having long been identified as straight. Parts of the theater scene were caught a bit off guard, but only momentarily. Now, she lives in New York with her partner Chelsea Nachman, a theatrical publicist.ā€œWe share the same professional community but in very different roles. I think that makes life easier for us.ā€ 

Currently enjoying an extended run at Signature in Arlington where the trees are in bloom, she spares time for a phone interview, starting off withā€œPerfect timing. Iā€™ve just finished the last song on Beyonceā€™s ā€˜Cowboy Carter.ā€™ Letā€™s talk.ā€

WASHINGTON BLADE: Increasingly, I hear artists report having been deeply changed by the pandemic. Did that have anything to do with your coming out in 2022?

PHILLIPS: Definitely. During the pandemic, those of us in the arts were in deep crisis, because our industry had collapsed in almost every way. At the same time, that space allowed us to be contemplative about where we were. For me, that period of time gave me the space to both come to terms with and confront those fears about saying who I was, out loud and publicly. 

BLADE: Did you have professional concerns?

PHILLIPS: Oh yeah, I was specifically worried about perception. Not so much about being queer but more what it meant to have come out relatively late in life. I had some fear around whether people would take me less seriously. 

At the same time, I was nervous about being fully transparent and worried about my privacy and being vulnerable. Like other women I knew, I was more comfortable dealing with traditional societal expectations in America. I grew up with those cultural expectations and thought of myself in those terms for a long time. 

BLADE: What changed? 

PHILLIPS: Whatā€™s been so freeing for me, I can confront how I took on those expectations and say Iā€™m not going to let those determine how I live my life. I get to decide.

BLADE: Thereā€™s a lot of wonderful storytelling in ā€œPenelope.ā€ Whatā€™s been your way into that? 

PHILLIPS: My way of moving through the show is allowing this character to experience all five stages of grief. Humor, slapstick comedy, bargaining, denial. And ultimately acceptance and deep grief. 

When an audience is alive and invested, itā€™s palpable and elevates the storytelling. When an audience is having a thinking rather feeling experience that changes the tone of my storytelling and not in a bad way. 

Itā€™s interesting how much theyā€™re a part of everything. Itā€™s really intimate. The audience is just six feet away. Itā€™s a unique experience and weā€™re on this ride together. And I find this to be a really beautiful and satisfying experience that Iā€™ve not had before.

BLADE: After Signature, whatā€™s next for ā€œPenelopeā€? 

PHILLIPS: Thatā€™s the million-dollar question. Hopefully weā€™ll take it forward to New York or tour it, but that requires willingness and money. I do think thereā€™s a broad audience for this. Itā€™s beautiful, unique, artistic, really emotional, and at the same time possesses an intellectual quality thatā€™s missing from a lot of commercial theater these days.

BLADE: And whatā€™s next for theater?

Phillips: I think one good thing that came out of the pandemic is that people like Alex Bechtel had an opportunity to create. In the next decade weā€™re going to see the results of that. I think we have some extraordinary things to look forward to. If a work like ā€œPenelopeā€ is any indication, weā€™re all in for something really good. 

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Movies

Trans filmmaker queers comic book genre with ā€˜Peopleā€™s Jokerā€™

Alternative ā€˜Batmanā€™ universe a medium for mythologized autobiography

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Vera Drew and a friend in ā€˜The Peopleā€™s Joker.ā€™ (Image courtesy of Altered Innocence)

It might come as a shock to some comic book fans, but the idea of super heroes and super villains has always been very queer. Think about it: the dramatic skin-tight costumes, the dual identities and secret lives, the inability to fit in or connect because you are distanced from the ā€œnormalā€ world by your powers  ā€“ all the standard tropes that define this genre of pop culture myth-making are so rich with obviously queer-coded subtext that it seems ludicrous to think anyone could miss it.

This is not to claim that all superhero stories are really parables about being queer, but, if weā€™re being honest some of them feel more like it than others; an obvious example is ā€œBatman,ā€ whose domestic life with a teenage boy as his ā€œwardā€ and close companion has been raising eyebrows since 1940. The campy 1960s TV series did nothing to distance the character from such associations ā€“ probably the opposite, in fact ā€“ and Warner Brothersā€™ popular ā€˜80s-ā€™90s series of film adaptations solidified them even more by ending with gay filmmaker Joel Schumacherā€™s much-maligned ā€œBatman and Robin,ā€ starring George Clooney and Chris Oā€™Donnell in costumes that highlighted their nipples, which is arguably still the queerest superhero movie ever made.

Or at least it was. That title might now have to be transferred to ā€œThe Peopleā€™s Joker,ā€ which ā€“ as it emphatically and repeatedly reminds us ā€“ is a parody in no way affiliated with DCā€™s iconic ā€œBatmanā€ franchise or any of its characters, even though writer, director and star Vera Drew begins it with a dedication to ā€œMom and Joel Schumacher.ā€ Parody it may be, but that doesnā€™t keep it from also serving up lots of food for serious thought to chew on between the laughs.

Set in a sort of comics-inspired dystopian meta-America where unsanctioned comedy is illegal, itā€™s the story of a young, closeted transgender comic (Drew) who leaves her small town home to travel to Gotham City and audition for ā€œGCBā€ ā€“ the official government-produced sketch comedy show. Unfortunately, sheā€™s not a very good comic, and after a rocky start she decides to leave to form a new comedy troupe (labeled ā€œanti-comedyā€ to skirt legality issues) along with penguin-ish new friend Oswald Cobblepot (Nathan Faustyn). They collect an assortment of misfit would-be comedians to join them, and after branding herself as ā€œJoker the Harlequin,ā€ our protagonist starts to find her groove ā€“ but it will take negotiating a relationship with trans ā€œbad boyā€ Mr. J (Kane Distler), a confrontation with her self-absorbed and transphobic mother (Lynn Downey), and making a choice between playing by the rules or breaking them before she can fully transition into the militant comic activist she was always meant to be.

Told as a wildly whimsical, mixed media narrative that combines live action with a quirky CGI production design andĀ multiple styles of animation (with different animators for each sequence), ā€œPeopleā€™s Jokerā€ is by no means the kind of big-budget blockbuster we expect from a movie about a superhero ā€” or in this case, supervillain, though the topsy-turvy context of the story more or less reverses that distinction ā€” but it should be obvious from the synopsis above thatā€™s not what Drew was going for, anyway. Instead, the Emmy-nominated former editor uses her loopy vision of an alternative ā€œBatmanā€ universe as the medium for a kind of mythologized autobiography expressing her own real-life journey, both toward embracing her trans identity and forging a maverick career path in an industry that discourages nonconformity, while also spoofing the absurdities of modern culture. Subverting familiar tropes, yet skillfully weaving together multiple threads from the ā€œrealā€ DC Universe sheā€™s appropriated with the detailed savvy of a die-hard fangirl, itā€™s an accomplishment likely to impress her fellow comic book fans ā€” even if they canā€™t quite get behind the gender politics or her presentation of Batman himself (an animated version voiced by Phil Braun) as a closeted gay right-wing demagogue and serial sexual abuser.

These elements, of course, are meant to be deliberately provocative. Drew, like her screen alter ego, is a confrontation comic at heart, bent on shaking up the dominant paradigm at every opportunity. Yet although she takes aim at the expected targets ā€“ the patriarchy, toxic masculinity, corporate hypocrisy, etc. ā€“ she is equally adept at scoring hits against things like draconian ideals of political correctness and weaponized ā€œcancel cultureā€, which are deployed with extreme prejudice from idealogues on both sides of the ideological divide. This means she might be risking the alienation of an audience which might otherwise be fully in her corner ā€“ but it also provides the ring of unbiased personal truth that keeps the movie from sliding into propaganda and elevates it, like ā€œBarbieā€, to the level of absurdist allegory.

Because ultimately, of course, the point of ā€œPeopleā€™s Jokerā€ has little to do with the politics and social constructs it skewers along the way; at its core, itā€™s about the real human things that resonate with all of us, regardless of gender, sexuality, ideology, or even political parties: the need to feel loved, to feel supported, and most of all, to be fully actualized. That means the real heart of the film beats in the central thread of its troubled connection between mother and daughter, superbly rendered in both Drew and Downeyā€™s performances, and itā€™s there that Joker is finally able to break free of her own self-imposed restrictions and simply ā€œbeā€ who she is.

Other performances deserve mention, too, such as Faustynā€™s weirdly lovable ā€œPenguinā€ stand-in and Outsider multi-hyphenate artist David Leibe Hart as Raā€™s al Ghul – a seminal ā€œBatmanā€ villain here reimagined as a veteran comic that serves as a kind of Obi-Wan Kenobi figure in Jokerā€™s quest. In the end, though, itā€™s Drewā€™s show from top to bottom, a showcase for not only her acting skills, which are enhanced by the obvious intelligence (including the emotional kind) she brings to the table, but her considerable talents as a writer, director, and editor.

For some viewers, admittedly, the low-budget vibe of this crowd-funded film might create an obstacle to appreciating the cleverness and artistic vision behind it, though Drew leans into the limitations to find remarkably creative ways to convey what she wants with the means she has at her disposal. Others, obviously, will have bigger problems with it than that. Indeed, the film, which debuted at the 2022 Toronto International Film Festival, was withdrawn from competition there and pulled from additional festival screenings after alleged corporate bullying (presumably from Warner Brothers, which owns the film rights to the Batman franchise) pressured Drew into holding it back. Clearly, concern over blowback from conservative fans ā€“ who would likely never see the film anyway ā€“ was enough to warrant strong arm techniques from nervous execs. Nevertheless, ā€œThe Peopleā€™s Jokerā€ made its first American appearance at LAā€™s Outfest in 2023, and is now receiving a rollout theatrical release that started on April 5 in New York, and continues this week in Los Angeles, with Washington DC and other cities to follow on April 12 and beyond.

If youā€™re in one of the places where it plays, we say itā€™s more than worth making the effort. If youā€™re not, never fear. A VOD/streaming release is sure to come soon. 

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Travel

Hot fun in the desert sun: Your Palm Springs guide

Hiking, dining, bar hopping, and more await

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There are plenty of hiking options for visitors to Palm Springs. (Photo by Bill Malcolm)

Palm Springs is a favorite destination of mine. I have lots of friends there and there is always something new to do. This trip was no exception. Hiking in two new natural areas. A cabaret shows at Oscarā€™s. Swimming with the USMS Masters at the Palm Springs Swim Center. A bagel at Townie Bagels and a baguette at Peninsula Pastries. And a cocktail at PSP Air Bar were among the highlights.

WHAT TO DO

Enjoy the Villagefest Thursday night downtown. They block off the street, and it becomes a huge farmers market and art show.

Hit the PS Air Bar for an airline themed evening. They have piano bar Sunday nights in the front. Shop at the Revivals store in the same complex.

Hike in the new Prescott Preserve, formerly a golf course.

Take a hike at the South Lykken Trailhead in Oswit Canyon. Enjoy the cacti and wildflowers. We saw 3 big horn sheep in the meadow. Check out the Oswit Land Trust website for more information.

Go shopping on Sunny Dunes just off South Palm Canyon drive where you will find vintage stores, the Tool Shed leather bar, the new Club 541, antique stores, and a cactus and succulent gift shop (as well as Townie Bagels). Then walk or bike along the new trail along the river just south of Sunny Dunes Road. They even have the plants marked. All are steps from the Motel 6 Downtown.

NIGHTLIFE

Catch a show or go to the Sunday T Dance at Oscarā€™s. They also have a drag brunch both Saturday and Sunday called ā€œThe Bitchiest Brunch.ā€ I saw the fabulous trio, Brandon, and James with Effie, on a Thursday night.

Toucans Tiki Lounge has a popular drag show Monday night. Pick up some new underwear or adult novelty items at the Not So Innocent store next door, 200 N. Palm Canyon.

The Tool Shed at 600 E. Sunny Dunes has a Sunday beer bust and BBQ. They also have an underwear night on Thursdays.

Hunters Palm Springs on Arenas Road has a fun happy hour. (This is the same owner as the one in Wilton Manors, Fla.) You will find 10 other bars nearby.

Fasten your seat belts for the Karaoke Thursday night at PSP Air Bar. The airline themed speakeasy is inside Bouschet. Sit in an old first class American Airlines seat (or an old coach Southwest Airlines seat) while the captain pours you a drink at the PS Air Bar. Then enjoy a show at the Revolution Stage Company next door.

WHERE TO EAT

Grab your morning bagel and coffee at Townie Bagels at 650 East Sunny Dunes. Get there early or expect a line. They open at 6:30 a.m. They are at 650 E. Sunny Dunes Road and have a cult following.

Enjoy a cafƩ Americano and pastry at Ristretto For Coffee Lovers (500 S. Palm Canyon Drive).

Enjoy a French baguette or pastry at Peninsula Pastries, 611 S. Palm Canyon in the Sun Plaza. They are only open Thursday to Sunday starting at 8:30 a.m. Get there early to avoid the line. All baked goods use French flour. Like Townie Bagels, they are quite popular. Next door is the Palm Greens CafƩ for a healthy lunch.

Natureā€™s Health Food and CafĆ© (555 Sunrise Way) has fresh juices like carrot juice and vegetarian items like the eggplant wrap. You can sit outside on their patio with your to-go food.

Pick up fruit, yogurt or a pre-made sandwich at Grocery Outlet, Bargain Market in downtown Palm Springs.

GETTING THERE AND GETTING AROUND

I took United through Denver on the way out and through their Houston hub on the way back. United had the best fare and best departure times so I chose them despite my disdain for their policy charging for carry on for basic economy passengers. I had Economy Plus so I got a no charge carry on.

Palm Springs has a cute, small airport with a huge outdoor area. Itā€™s the nicest airport I have ever been to. However, pack something to eat as they have few food options at the moment.

Hop on the #2 SunLine Bus across the street from the airport to go downtown. Itā€™s a two block walk and costs $1. Rental car not needed if you stay downtown. (The lines for the rental cars can be long and they are packed with fees and surcharges.) I used Uber when not taking the SunLine. (SunLine.org)

Leave your bike helmet at home. The city does not have a shared bike system and is not pedestrian friendly outside of the downtown area despite being flat and having a warm climate.

WHERE TO (AND NOT TO) STAY

I stayed at the very handy and very affordable Motel 6 Downtown, 600 S. Palm Canyon. It is across the street from the Sun Plaza, which consists of many shops and restaurant, is a short walk to the bars on Arenas Road, is around the corner from Townie Bagels and the Tool Shed Bar, and more. Rooms are cleaned daily without asking ā€“ unheard of with most motels and hotels. The internet is good. No annoying resort fees. Free coffee every morning at 6 a.m. Get a quiet room on the third floor facing east.

Beware of junk fees like resort fees at other Palm Springs hotels. Most hotels in Palm Springs now have them and they are only disclosed on third party booking sites at the end of the reservation process making the room rate look lower than it actually is.

Often, they are lumped under ā€œtaxes and feesā€ to make you think the government requires them. My favorite (not) was the mandatory ā€œcommunity impact feeā€ at the Hotel Zoso. It is for a mandatory contribution to a charity.

Happily, I have yet to see hotels add a ā€œpillow feeā€ or ā€œkey fee.ā€

Palm Springs has many lodging options including VRBO and specialty resorts. Men will like the new Twin Palms Resort as well as their sister property, The Descanso Resort. Both are excellent. Service is top notch. Lunch catered everyday. And more.

MORE INFORMATION

GED is the local magazine. RAGE Monthly out of San Diego also covers PS as does the Los Angeles Blade.

The weekly is the Coachella Valley Independent, which covers upcoming events, restaurants, hikes, local politics and more.

Palm Springs also has a gay radio station. Pick up a copy of their KGay desert Guide or view them at kgaypalmsprings.com (106.5 on the FM dial).

You wonā€™t run out of fun things to do in Palm Springs and summer is their value season.

There is nowhere else where you can enjoy the desert sun surrounded to the west and north by snow capped mountains. And you wonā€™t find a gayer city anywhere.

Bill Malcolm is an award-winning travel writer. His syndicated travel column in run by select LGBTQ publications throughout North America. You can find him on Facebook and read his columns at the travel blog section of the IGLTA website. He received no compensation of any kind for this column.

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