Dining
Best of the batch
Doi Moi, Range, Le Diplomate among year’s standouts


When you walk into Le Diplomate, you are magically transported to a beautiful Parisian café. (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)
This year saw an amazing number of new restaurants popping up in the District, some established restaurants celebrating major milestones; others with new chefs taking the reins.
Some of these new endeavors were huge successes like Range, Le Diplomate and Red Hen while others like Kapnos and Petworth Citizen did not quite live up to the high standards set by the leading establishments. There is always some place new to try and fantastic meals to be eaten, keeping this foodie and friends happy for an entire year.
I kicked off the year by visiting the comfort food hub Satellite Room (2047 9th Street N.W.). The “boozy shakes” are what brought me in the door, but the meatloaf, mashed potatoes and mac and cheese were all excellent dishes that kept me coming back.
My next stop was planned around my mother’s visit to D.C. Mexican tapas were right up her alley so we made a reservation at recently renovated Jaleo (1480 7th Street N.W.). Jose Andres and his team were celebrating the 20th anniversary of Jaleo in D.C. and that night they showed why they had been successful with delectable bites and friendly service.
The next stop was a new spot in Chevy Chase that diners were flocking to, with good reason. Bryan Voltaggio’s, Range (5335 Wisconsin Ave. N.W.) was delighting the diners who were lucky enough to get a reservation with outstanding food, impeccable preparation and goat cheese seamless ravioli that was to die for.
This spring I paid a visit to SEI (444 4th Street N.W.) as part of the 10th anniversary celebration for restaurant trio OYA/SEI and SAX. I was pleasantly surprised with the sushi I was served that evening at SEI; although not groundbreaking, it was quite good.
Jardenea (2430 Pennsylvania Ave. N.W.) prides itself on its farm-to-fork concept sourcing fresh ingredients from local growers. Lindsay is a talented chef who turns these fresh and local ingredients into culinary gems.
Astro Doughnuts and Fried Chicken (1308 G St.N.W.) is co-founded by Elliot Spaisman and Jeff Halpern and they brought on gay pastry chef Jason Gehring to help them deliver fun interpretations of these two well-known comfort foods. The crème brulee doughnut and the maple bacon doughnut were the two standouts.
The soft opening of a new French bistro on 14th Street in May marked the true arrival of the 14th Street strip as a dining destination. Le Diplomate (1601 14th St. N.W.) is similar to Stephen Starr’s hugely successful Parc in Philadelphia. When you walk into Le Diplomate, you are magically transported to a beautiful Parisian café complete with breads, cheeses and fantastic French cuisine. This is one of those establishments that was expected to be a standout, and it is living up to those lofty expectations.
In May I visited RIS (2275 L St. N.W.) for an opportunity to experience gay pastry chef Sean Sasser’s creations. Sasser stole the show with an endless parade of sweets that were impeccably prepared. That was the last time that any of us had a chance to experience Sasser’s culinary genius. Sadly, on Aug. 8 at the young age of 44, Sasser, a long-time AIDS activist, died.
Sixth Engine (438 Massachusetts Ave. N.W.) delivered some great American classic dishes while Oyamel (401 7th St. N.W.) offered the “Oyamel Experience” menu, essentially a culinary tour of Mexico that did not disappoint.
The next stop was Teddy and the Bully Bar (1200 19th St. N.W.). The same visionaries who brought Lincoln Restaurant to the area bring this restaurant to D.C. This (very) small plate style restaurant serves up some fantastic bites of food inspired by Roosevelt. The standout dish was the crab and avocado with its rich sweet crab and cool avocado, which was perfectly balanced, flavorful and refreshing.
Every year, I seem to be faced with a meal I am not quite prepared for. This year that meal took place at Zengo as part of its “Test Kitchen: Hong Kong to San Juan.” While I had tried to prepare myself mentally for a whole fried fish to be placed in front of me, nothing could have prepared me for that beautiful-yet-terrifying dish. Six months later, I still see the menacing teeth in my dreams, but I can also still taste the bold, rich and tender flavors.
Table (933 N St. N.W.) has gotten lots of buzz and has a great space. While the food was tasty, it seemed to be lacking the overall “wow” I was expecting. I did, however, find the entire wow factor at Doi Moi (1800 14th St. N.W.). The stars all aligned for this meal and what Mark Kuller and his head chef Haider Karoum delivered blew me away. Quite honestly, this Tuesday evening meal was the best meal of the year.
I ended the year with another stand out meal at Red Hen (1822 1st St. N.W.). A meal full of perfect pasta, extraordinary wine and delectable dessert.
Dining
Union Market’s Last Call Bar a welcoming oasis for all
Mixologist Britt Weaver expresses her pride and identity every day

Amid the development of the fast-growing Union Market district, spanning dozens of eateries (including a duo of Michelin stars), embracing and inclusive spaces are tough to come by. Last Call Bar is one of those — and head mixologist and proud member of the LGBTQ community Britt Weaver is making sure this divey spot stays that way.
While buzzy restaurants take the spotlight, Weaver and Last Call are embracing the different.
“I’ve made it a personal mission to ensure that the bar continues to be a place where everyone feels welcomed and accepted,” she says. “Being behind the bar, I see a lot of people — I try to make sure every guest feels safe, seen, and cared for when they visit.”
Last Call exudes a laid-back spirit, aiming to fill that neighborhood-style gap that might be missing among prix-fixe tasting menus and shiny boutiques. Eccentric décor that includes painted lockers, old posters hung from the ceiling, artfully peeling paint, and arcade games feeds into the homey spirit. Patrons are welcome to bring in stickers and slap them on the bar, adding even more personality to the space.
Launched in 2019 serving sub-$10 drinks and having survived the pandemic, Last Call still maintains an unconventional vibe that extends to the menu. It’s one of the few bars that serves flavor-changing Jello shots, with the option to add nostalgia-inducing pop rocks; as well as an hour-long “teeny tiny ‘tini hour” for those who want a taste but not an entire glassful of liquor. Keeping things cool: koozies are also for sale. The food menu’s grown since opening, with sandwiches in addition to bags of chips and shareable dips.
Last Call welcomed Weaver in 2023. While working as a bartender during grad school, Weaver was drawn to the excitement of the bar scene. After COVID, she says, she leaned into her career in the hospitality industry.
In the freewheeling, demanding bartending industry, Weaver has fought to be seen.
“Previous jobs and ownership teams have urged me to conceal my identity, but that is something I refuse to do. It is so incredibly important for me to be able to express my pride and identity every day,” she says.
Last Call has a pedigree from its ally owner Gina Chersevani, who also runs decade-old Buffalo and Bergen stall inside Union Market and a sister Buffalo and Bergen on Capitol Hill. Chersevani is deeply rooted in the D.C. hospitality industry, which Weaver says has a culture that celebrates creativity and expression.
Chersevani ensures that “I’ve been celebrated and encouraged to express my identity,” says Weaver. “She has given me the freedom to cultivate a space that is welcoming of the LGBTQ+ community while also still remaining true to the Last Call spirit.” This year, during Pride month, Chersevani launched a Pride punch card, in which patrons who visited all of her spots won free drinks.
Weaver further notes that being proud of her identity and committing to it behind the bar and in the fast-paced service industry “opens more space for other LGBTQ+ industry members to feel safe to express their own identities. Visibility is so critical in making safe spaces for the queer community.”
Looking forward, Weaver remains steadfast in her commitment to learning and growing in the space and in D.C. She promises that Last Call Bar has plenty of events and programming, new cocktail menus, and a welcoming community spirit.
To celebrate the summer, Weaver offered a cocktail recipe to have at home with friends: Strawberry Piña Colada.
Ingredients
· 2 ounces silver rum
· 1 ounce strawberry purée
· 1 ounce fresh pineapple juice
· 1 ounce coconut milk
· .5 ounce lime juice
Combine all ingredients, then shake. Serve in a Collins glass, over crushed ice, and
garnish as desired.

Representing the ever-growing, increasingly recognized restaurant industry in Washington, D.C., the Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington (RAMW) held its first-ever RAMMYs Honors Event on June 18 in the lower level of the Watergate Hotel. Restaurant and hospitality industry professionals, leaders, and community members gathered to celebrate RAMMY special distinctions.
The event took place as an extension of the traditional RAMMY Awards Gala, which honors “the exceptional ability and accomplishments” of the region’s restaurants and foodservice community. The 42nd Annual RAMMY Awards Gala will take place on Sunday, July 21, at the Walter E. Washington Convention Center.
The RAMMYs Honors event kicked off with a cocktail hour, and was hosted by author, seasoned democratic strategist, and co-host of MSNBC’s The Weekend, Symone Sanders Townsend.
While there were several awards presented, this inaugural event only held onto one announcement until the event itself: the RAMMYS Joan Hisaoka Allied Member of the Year Winner, presented to an associate member who best exemplifies commitment to and support of RAMW. This year, the Carlos Rosario International Public Charter School won, a school supporting adult immigrants that includes a culinary arts program.
Other honors that evening included the Duke Zeibert Capital Achievement Award Winner, which was given to Greater Washington Partnership CEO Kathy E. Hollinger “for her excellence and community leadership, increasing the profile and success of the metropolitan Washington foodservice community.” Prior to joining the Partnership, Hollinger was president and CEO of RAMW. Hollinger sat for a wide-ranging interview on stage with Sanders Townsend, who is married to Shawn Townsend current president and CEO of the RAMW.
Finally, the 2024 Honorary Milestone RAMMY Award recipients were also honored, celebrating a significant number of years serving locals and visitors in Metropolitan Washington: The Dubliner (50 years), Black’s Bar & Kitchen (25 years), Equinox on 19th (25 years), KAZ Sushi Bistro (25 years), Marcel’s (25 years), and Passage to India (25 years).
As the restaurant industry grows in the city, for the first-time, the RAMMYS Honors event allowed for a unique opportunity to highlight a range of special distinctions determined by RAMW’s executive committee. Instead of being public-facing, the Honors were dedicated to industry professionals, to give extra attention and the spotlight to those that often get overlooked at the main RAMMYs Gala. These awards were chosen by RAMW’s executive committee whereas the other awards, given at The RAMMYS, are chosen by both the public and an anonymous panel of judges.
Summer, traditionally a slower time for the restaurant industry, means that RAMW is pulling out the stops for diners to try out new and favorite spots across the area.
First, finalists for Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington’s 2024 Wine Program of the Year will take part in promotions planned for the second week of July. From Monday, July 8, through Sunday, July 14, the region’s top wine programs will showcase their outstanding varietals and pours. The 2024 Wine Program of the Year Finalists include: Apero (Dupont Circle), Era (Mt. Ranier), Irregardless (H Street), Lulu’s Wine Garden (Shaw), and St. Anselm (Union Market). Each will have discounts, tasting parties, special blends, flights, and other ways to savor the area’s top wines.
Finally, the season also sees the return of Summer Restaurant Week, celebrating the region’s restaurant industry from Monday, Aug. 12, through Sunday, Aug. 18. Participating restaurants will offer multi-course brunch and lunch menus with updated tiered pricing for $25 or $35 per person, and multi-course dinner menus for $40, $55, or $65 per person for on-premises dining. Many restaurants will also offer cocktail, wine, and non-alcoholic pairings.
Dining
Behind the bar with Moon Rabbit’s Thi Nguyen
Cocktails work in harmony with thoughtfully executed Vietnamese dishes

Thi Nguyen’s hands move purposely behind the bar, her all-business, cobalt blue nails gleaming under the warm lighting of recently relocated – and highly celebrated – Moon Rabbit. A dash of simple syrup infused with pandan – a shrub native to Southeast Asia with vanilla-scented leaves – moves deftly in her hands to lightly spice a cocktail that will soon receive another kick from ginger bitters.
Nguyen, Moon Rabbit’s celebrated bar manager, cannot be accused of holding back flavors from her drinks. Nor can she hold back her identity and her journey. Her journey from Saigon to Maryland to California and finally to D.C., but also her journey as a proudly out lesbian, unafraid to bring her whole self to all her pours.
Boundaries, borders, conventions: these matter little to Nguyen, who left several homes to finally find herself where she’s most comfortable, and where she acts as a leader and mentor for others to do the same. Just as she doesn’t hide her identity, she also doesn’t hide that her cocktails complement Moon Rabbit’s vibrant, contemporary Vietnamese cuisine. Owner/chef Kevin Tien pays tribute to his heritage as a first-generation Asian American, using Moon Rabbit as a platform for expressing his love for Vietnamese culture and food through a determinedly modern lens.
Her cocktails, then, work in harmony with thoughtfully executed dishes like chewy rice cakes under a tofu crumble and cured egg, deconstructed crab Rangoon, and wagyu-stuffed perilla leaves brightened by fermented honey.
Sitting with the chefs and acclaimed owner Kevin Tien, “we begin by exploring cookbooks together,” in a collaborative process, “to find inspiration and potential flavor combinations. It involves a lot of research and development, trial and error, experimentation, and technique.”
“And while this sometimes leads to failures, it ultimately helps us discover the perfect pairings.”
Her menu arrives without flavor hesitations. Cocktail names are given in both English and Vietnamese (as are the dishes), a signal that she is asking diners and drinkers to join her and trust her as unapologetic about her Vietnamese craft.
The Hết Nước Chấm (Out of Dipping Sauce) drink is composed of vodka, passionfruit liqueur, a squeeze of lemon, and a simple syrup based on nước chấm– also known as fish sauce. While nodding to the popularity of the savory martini, this cocktail also reflects the ubiquity of fish sauce on the Moon Rabbit menu and across Southeast Asia.
Other ingredients? Sesame oil, coconut milk, palm syrup, and chrysanthemum all show up in various drinks, alcoholic or otherwise. She also creates cocktails that highlight and celebrate gay icons, drawing inspiration not just from the menu and research but also LGBTQ history and culture.
This pride in her work is reflected in the pride in her identity.
“Being part of the LGBTQ community has taught me the importance of authenticity, resilience, and inclusivity. I am unapologetic about who I am and show up at work proud of my identity, which helps create a space where others feel comfortable and supported.”
Tien, Nguyen, and his staff are highly intentional in staffing. “This commitment to inclusivity is reflected in our hiring practices; we intentionally build a diverse bar team that includes members of the LGBTQ community,” she says.
Just like her physical journey, arriving in this place of leadership and comfort took a circuitous path. In the face of microaggressions and ignorance, comments and assumptions, lack of understanding and respect, she has been able to “strengthen my resolve to create an inclusive and supportive environment.” She ensures that she’s active in events that raise funds for LGBTQ non-profits around the DMV area, including SYMAL, CCI Health Services, and KhushDC.
“I hope to encourage other LGBTQ individuals to pursue careers in hospitality and to advocate for greater inclusivity and acceptance in their own workplaces.”
Moon Rabbit, formerly located at the InterContinental Hotel on the Wharf, closed with a shock last year (its closure took place among a unionization drive by the hotel’s staff that the hotel had opposed). Debuting in its new location in Penn Quarter in January, Moon Rabbit quickly retook its place as a top dining destination: the restaurant was recently added to the Michelin guide. In June, Nguyen herself was named one of the best new bartenders in 2024 by Punch magazine. As Pride month closes out, Nguyen remains as dedicated to her craft – and her advocacy – as ever.