Connect with us

Dining

Eat like a tourist

Treat yourself to a week of dining out

Published

on

staycation, gay news, Washington Blade

The Lafayette Room (Photo courtesy Hay-Adams)

Let’s face it: nobody really wants a staycation. However, sometimes getting away to a seaside cottage or plush Parisian pied-à-terre is just not in the cards. But if you’re going to stay home, then it’s worth making the most of it.

One way to make a staycation feel special is to give food a central focus, just as you would on a normal vacation. While D.C. is certainly in the midst of a culinary awakening, try heading off the beaten path to hotel restaurants — where you can also pretend you’re a guest — or unexpected hideaways, where you probably won’t run into your neighbors. Here’s a seven-day plan that will allow you to taste the good life without ever leaving the city limits.

Sunday: Brunch at Via Umbria (1525 Wisconsin Ave., N.W.). There’s a serious surprise behind the doors of Georgetown newcomer Via Umbria, an Italian market that boasts a wide array of specialty cheese, charcuterie and curated wines. Head upstairs for brunch in the sun-filled kitchen; for just $35, you’ll sit around the center island with other guests and sip on bottomless mimosas and Bloody Marys, while watching the resident chef whip up Italian specialties like cornetti alla crema, sfogliatelli, cacio e pepe, grilled vegetables and fresh fruit granita — depending on whatever’s fresh that day. The adjacent roof deck is also a nice place to steal away any other day of the week with a bottle of bubbly and a good book.

Monday: Afternoon snack at Blue Duck Tavern & Lounge (24th and M streets, N.W.). Voted one of the top 10 hotel restaurants in the United States by USA Today readers, this gem in the Park Hyatt feels like an escape from the everyday the moment you step into the lush lobby. Stop in for a snack or an early happy hour to try out its new line-up of matcha green tea-based beverages, with or without alcohol, from a refreshing iced matcha to an earthy twist on the gin and tonic that features housemade matcha tonic, made with grapefruit zest, yuzu juice and chinchona bark. Hint: ask about the homemade ice cream treats — you are on vacation, after all.

Tuesday: Pub lunch at the Alibi (237 2nd St., N.W. ). Hidden away in the shadow of the Department of Labor building, the Alibi is a charmingly renovated English pub that was delayed from getting a liquor license for nearly a year, but it was worth the wait. Luckily, they put that time to good use in crafting an authentic menu of steak pie, tikka masala, scotch eggs and perfectly crisped triple-cooked English chips — all of which is the right match for a wide range of draft beer and other libations to quaff your thirst. Even better, the Alibi offers a full vegan and vegetarian menu in addition to the traditional one, including vegetarian fish and chips and mushroom barbecue with a tart apple slaw. Don’t miss out on the banoffee pie for dessert.

Wednesday: Dinner at the Hay-Adams (800 16th St., N.W.). Mid-week during any vacation is a nice time for a special dinner, and the Hay-Adams offers absolute elegance in the Lafayette, its signature restaurant. You’ll be treated to superb service, with each plate showing off particular attention to detail, from Maine lobster salad with lemon curd sauce and trout roe to beef tenderloin with Madeira sauce and foie gras. Be sure to put in an order for pastry chef Josh Short’s vanilla soufflé, a light-as-air confection accompanied by a lightly tart blueberry sorbet that is, quite simply, summer on a plate. Insider’s advice: ask for Eli as your server.

Thursday: Picnic at Yards Park (355 Water St., S.E.). Weekends at this sunny spot along the Anacostia River can get pretty crowded, so plan a picnic for either lunch or dinner to get a prime spot with a view of both kayakers and herons. Another reason to head that way on a weekday is to grab exceptional sandwiches from Cornercopia (1000 3rd St., S.E.) a favorite of locals that is mostly only open on weekdays. Try the Green Line, made with homemade pesto, avocado, smoked gouda, tomato, onio, and dried cranberries, or the Capitol, a ciabatta roll filled with black forest ham, brie and sliced pears. Stop at the bottle shop at Bluejacket (300 Tingey St., S.E.) for bottles of beer to go, and snag a seat on the comfortable wooden lounge chairs under the trees at the end of 4th Street.

Friday: Poolside drinks at the Liaison (415 New Jersey Ave., N.W.) What’s a vacation without spending a day by the pool — and maybe a cabana boy bearing frosty drinks? The Liaison Hotel on Capitol Hill has a rooftop pool that offers day passes for just $35, so you can float all day while sipping on plenty of rum cocktails and noshing on pressed cheese toasties on fresh focaccia, hummus and veggies, and giant cookies stuffed with chocolate chips and pecans. Swimming ends at 5 p.m., but that’s when happy hour starts, so it’s a reasonable trade-off. If you really want to get the full vacation experience, considering renting an actual cabana for the day.

Saturday: Guilty pleasures at Esencias Panameñas (3322 Georgia Ave., N.W.). End your week by exploring the vibrant food of Panama at chef Yadira Stamp’s restaurant. In just its first year, Esencias Panameñas has developed a loyal following among Caribbean ex-pats from across the region, who line up around the block to sink their teeth into her  Sábados de Fritangas (“guilty pleasures”) brunch, which is served all day on Saturdays and from 11 a.m.-3 p.m. on Sundays. It’s a decadent assortment of traditional goodies, from crispy corn fritters and twice-fried green plantains stuffed with ceviche to whole snapper in escobeche sauce — but the real draw is the homemade ice cream in flavors like grape nut, rum raisin and soursop, and chicheme frío, a delectation made of hominy corn, condensed milk and coconut milk. You won’t regret a mouthful.

 

Kristen Hartke is a D.C.-based food and beverage writer. Follow her kitchen adventures on Instagram.

Continue Reading
Advertisement
Click to comment

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Dining

Jane Jane brings throwback joy to busy 14th Street

Cocktail bar characterized by warm Southern hospitality

Published

on

(Photo courtesy of Deney Lam)

There is no standing at Jane Jane, the new classic cocktail bar in the heart of 14th Street. Its 850 square feet is for sitting and savoring, drinking in the relaxed retro vibe and the thoughtful craft cocktails. 

At the foot of the mixed-use Liz development where Whitman-Walker is the major tenant, Jane Jane’s creative use of a shoebox-sized space brings throwback joy to a busy thoroughfare. 

In the pre-COVID days of 2019, Whitman-Walker approached the Jane Jane owners, hospitality veterans Jean Paul (JP) Sabatier, Ralph Brabham and Drew Porterfield, all gay men, to make good use of the vacant parcel, and ensure it would be run by LGBTQ entrepreneurs. “It required some gymnastics because of the layout,” says Brabham, “but we came up with this cozy classic cocktail concept.” 

The hangout spot is an effort by the trio to “celebrate hospitality. We want everyone who walks into the space to feel like friends of ours we are having over for drinks or a bite. Its a cocktail party in our home,” he says. They felt connected to the idea of a tiny bar—a space where they would want to have a drink.

Named for Brabham’s mother, Jane Jane is as alluring and lively as it is intimate, each detail in the experience characterized by warm Southern hospitality—right from the bowl of spiced nuts that swiftly appear at each table at the beginning of service.

Sabatier, who has held stints at D.C. institutions like Rappahannock Oyster Bar, Maydan, and Compass Rose, oversees the bar and cocktail program, organized by spirit. (For their part, Brabham and Porterfield, romantic partners, also act as co-owners of Beau Thai and BKK Cookshop; Porterfield is also the current Curator and Director of Long View Gallery in Shaw.)

Sabatier has presented classic cocktails with a few noteworthy nods to current zeitgeist, as imagined by his lengthy experience behind the bar. The booklet-like menu includes a broad selection of familiar favorites like a Negroni, Manhattan, martini, but also features Sabatier’s handpicked favorite classics like the Boulevardier (a whiskey Negroni), Last Word (gin married to herbaceous green chartreuse) and Air Mail (rum, honey and cava). Drinks fall in the $13-$16 range; a “Golden Hour” runs daily until 7 p.m. featuring beer and wine specials and a punch of the day. 

Sabatier’s creative juices flow on the first page through cocktails like the vividly named Tears at an Orgy, with brandy, orange and maraschino, as well as the best-selling, highly Instagrammable Crop Top, a gin cocktail with a red-wine floater—and a name that matches the look of the bi-color drink. “It’s fun, delicious, and speaks to the space,” says Sabatier. He notes that their vodka of choice comes from Civic, a local, women- and LGBTQ-owned distillery.

Sabatier, a classically trained chef and Culinary Institute of America graduate, also oversees the small selection of bar bites (the space has no kitchen, part of the required “gymnastics” to make it functional.)

Beyond the complimentary vessel of rosemary-flecked mixed nuts, other bar snacks run from pickled vegetables to a Southern-style Pimento cheese dip and an onion dip creamy enough to make your grandmother blush. The “Jane’s Caviar” dish is a spread of trout roe and crème fraiche and comes with a towering mound of shatteringly crisp chips. A weekend brunch is in the works, which will serve goodies from local bakeries.

The retro-style interior recalls both California and the South, with only 32 seats inside and a 14-seat patio. Cozy booths done up in a hunter green as warm and inviting as a cool aunt are slung below walnut-wood walls and bar. Bright patterned tiles run the length of the floor; the back wall has playful cocktail wallpaper. A charming needlepoint by the restrooms kindly requests of guests, “please don’t do coke in the bathroom.”

The owners note that while Jane Jane is not explicitly a gay bar, its location in a traditionally gay-welcoming institution means that it has LGBTQ in its bones.

“Supporting LGBTQ people, businesses, and causes has been in Jane Jane’s ownership’s DNA at every establishment at which they have been involved,” they say, having supported local LGBTQ+ organizations like Casa Ruby, Victory Fund, SMYAL and the Human Rights Campaign, among others. 

Porterfield says that they were surprised that, given the locale, people assumed Jane Jane was a gay bar. “It’s not a gay or straight bar, just a fantastic cocktail bar that welcomes anyone to hang out with us,” he says. 

Nevertheless, the owners have taken into consideration the significance of being in the Liz development, as both gay men and as part of the hospitality industry. “It highlights the lack of representation as gay owners in this bar and restaurant world,” says Porterfield. They note the lack of women, LGBTQ and BIPOC representation. 

“It’s very special to us that we opened in this space,” says Porterfield, “so we want to show that we have opened a place that is all about inclusivity.”

Continue Reading

Dining

Seven new restaurants to try this fall

D.C. restaurant scene thriving again after rough year

Published

on

Le Diplomate, dining, food, French cuisine, gay news, Washington Blade
If you like Le Diplomate, you’ll love new concept Bread Alley in Union Market offering, you guessed it, Le Dip’s famous breads. (Blade file photo by Michael Key)

The fall dining scene is as hot as ever. Here are some of the top tickets to look out for:

RAMMYs: Sept. 19 marks the annual D.C.-area restaurant industry awards, the RAMMYs. Many of the categories this year are unique to the challenges restaurants faced in 2020. Held at the Walter E. Washington Convention Center, the awards “created timely categories that speak to all the ways the region’s uniquely met those challenges,” according to the RAMMYs. Such categories include “most innovative to-go packaging”, “outstanding COVID-safe redesign,” and “most impressive pivot to provision or market.” 

Jane Jane (1705 14th St. NW): 

Highly anticipated retro-chic cocktail bar Jane Jane quietly opened after more than two years in the making. Co-owned by gay men Drew Porterfield, his partner Ralph Brabham, and friend JP Sabatier, Jane Jane’s mid-century-style throwback offers classic cocktails and upgraded bar snacks. It’s located in the new Liz development on 14th Street.

Thirsty Crow (3400 11th St. NW):

Part sports bar, part cocktail bar, Thirsty Crow opened just last week in Columbia Heights. It sits in the subterranean level of Michelin Bib Gourmand-winning Makan, serving cocktails and bites inspired by Malaysian flavors, like its sister restaurant on the ground level. Chef James Wozniuk of Makan is overseeing the menu of snacks like shrimp chips and larger plates like spicy fried chicken with sambal.

No Goodbyes (1770 Euclid St. NW):

The Line Hotel previously played host to a suite of restaurants: A Rake’s Progress, Brothers and Sisters, and Spoke English. When these restaurants left this Adams Morgan hotel, the spaces sat mostly vacant until No Goodbyes slid into the ground floor. An all-day dining place that “taps the farmers, fishers, and small-time ranchers in DC’s own backyard,” according to its website, the menu sits squarely on a Chesapeake Bay foundation. Mid-Atlantic dishes, from fish to fowl, play large on the menu.

Bread Alley (1250 5th St NE):

The intoxicating tower of carbs that greets diners when they walk into buzzy Le Diplomate is getting its very own dedicated space, aptly named Bread Alley. A tiny location in the Union Market area, the shop just launched selling only the three types of bread that arrive complimentary at the start of any Le Dip meal: thick-crusted classic baguette, multigrain boules, and cranberry-walnut boules. It will eventually also sell pastries, jams, butter, honey, and other accouterments. Bakers begin their craft at 3:30 a.m. and offer their wares starting at 9 a.m. until 5 p.m. or sold out, whichever arrives earlier.

Bistro Du Jour (99 District Square SW) 

Bistro Du Jour will be gay-owned KNEAD Hospitality + Design’s third waterfront venue at the Wharf. A café in the Parisian style, it will lean heavily on croissants and cappuccinos during the day, moving to Champagne and larger savory dishes by night. The bistro will sell current partner Mah-Ze-Dahr Bakery’s fresh baked goods and pastries, and will showcase traditional fare like coq au vin, French onion soup, steak frites, and foie gras for lunch and dinner. The bistro will display an extensive bubbly section, as well as a chic espresso bar and an outdoor patio. Brunch is in the works.

SUCCOTASH Prime (915 F St., NW)

After a yearlong hiatus, SUCCOTASH Prime recently reopened at the end of August. SUCCOTASH Prime, also run by gay-owned KNEAD Hospitality + Design, is an updated version of the restaurant, still with Chef Edward Lee at the helm. The refreshed SUCCOTASH opened as a southern steakhouse with an Asian twist, featuring smoked steaks, fried oysters, collard greens, ham, and kimchi side dish. Live music is also planned.

Via Roma (4531 Telfair Blvd #110, Camp Springs, Md.)

Via Roma is a restaurant where you can enjoy the pies, you just can’t call it “pizza.” Just opened a few weeks ago, the restaurant serves pinsas, a pizza-like dish using dough made from a heady mixture of wheat, soy, and rice flours, and then proofed for more than a day. The spot calls itself the first Pinsa-certified restaurant in Maryland, and aims to reflect the laid-back, Mediterranean atmosphere of Naples (the owner also runs an Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana-certified restaurant in Maryland). Beyond Pinsa, it also serves Maryland crab tater tots, panini, pasta, salad, and Aperol spritzes.

Continue Reading

Dining

D.C. Restaurant Week returns

Celebrating a revitalized dining scene after COVID closures

Published

on

A sample of what’s available from The DC Restaurant Group, which owns spots like Shaw’s Tavern and 801 Restaurant. Entrees include lobster and grits and salmon over succotash. (Photo courtesy DC Restaurant Group)

After being confined to a to-go program for the last two iterations, Washington, D.C.’s Restaurant Week is back this summer to celebrate the revitalized dining scene in the city. Summer Restaurant Week 2021, run by Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington (RAMW), is scheduled to kick off Monday, Aug. 9, and last through Sunday, Aug. 15. 

The signature summer dining event returns to a one-week promotion this year, though restaurants have the option of extending their promotions. Diners can enjoy three-course menus at a range of indoor/outdoor comfort levels at more than 200 restaurants, ranging from fast-casual eateries to fine-dining destinations. In addition, the to-go family-style options that were introduced last year are not gone, however, as many restaurants will also offer this off-premise option. Of course, many spots plan to include a cocktail pairing as well.

Dinner is the main event for participating restaurants, with the classic three-course dinner priced at $35 per person. Several restaurants with higher overall price points are also offering an elevated $55 dinner with exclusive items. Three-course lunches run $22, and weekend brunch is also $22. 

Finally, many restaurants will also offer “RW-To-Go” dinner meals, available at two price points: $60 or $120 for two people and $100 or $200 for four people.

These RW-To-Go dinner meal packages are available for takeout or delivery, and diners can order RW-To-Go either directly from the participating restaurant or check their delivery app for the offer.

D.C. restaurants remain open at 100 percent capacity, but Mayor Bowser last week reinstated mask mandates for indoor spaces.  

New restaurants participating in Summer Restaurant Week include Angolo, ANXO, Flower Child, Le Sel, GATSBY, Glover Park Grill, Gypsy Kitchen, and Truluck’s in D.C.; and Spice Kraft Indian Bistro in Virginia.

“This year’s Summer Restaurant Week is not only providing diners with great options at great prices for dining out, but is also the first time all restaurants across our region are able to accommodate diners at full capacity both indoors and outdoors,” says Kathy Hollinger, president and CEO of the Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington. “Being fully open is a step toward recovery for the industry and also toward a return to our dynamic local restaurants in their spaces which help to elevate the dining experience.”

RAMW is the regional association representing restaurants and the foodservice industry in the D.C. Metropolitan Area. RAWM also runs the RAMMYs, the awards for the food and beverage industry. 

Restaurant operators themselves reinforced how important the promotion is to them. “Restaurant Week is an opportunity for us to showcase our resilience and commitment to serving our staff and community,” says Salwa Laaraichi of Station 4

For Eric Heidenberger, a partner at The DC Restaurant Group, which owns spots like Shaw’s Tavern and 801 Restaurant, the past year has been a challenge. But RAMW, he says, “has been very supportive to the D.C. restaurant community and a key a resource in helping us navigate the challenges of the pandemic. We’re excited to participate in the first “normal” restaurant week in almost a year and a half. Restaurant week is a great opportunity for us reach new diners and showcase new dishes to our regular/repeat customers.”

All of gay-owned KNEAD Hospitality + Design’s locations are participating in Restaurant Week. Co-owners Jason Berry said that he hopes that Restaurant Week “offers a way for diners to begin dipping their toe by taking advantage of these well-priced promotions. Restaurant Week brings a much-needed lift to August revenue and is especially meaningful this year as so many restaurants have been hurting these last 16 months.” 

As for what’s going to be offered at his restaurants, which include Gatsby, The Grill, Mi Casa, Mi Vida, and Succotash, most of which debuted just this year, “each of our restaurants takes a unique approach to offering seasonal additions, fun new items and crowd pleasers so that all guests have something for them during Restaurant Week.”

Continue Reading
Advertisement
Advertisement

Follow Us @washblade

Sign Up for Blade eBlasts

Popular