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Should gay snowbirds cancel Florida amid anti-LGBTQ attacks?

The ethics of soaking up the sun while DeSantis targets our own

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Some gay travelers are wondering if they should boycott Florida over its anti-LGBTQ laws. (Photo by catella/Bigstock)

The sunny state of Florida has long been a draw for many members of the LGBTQ community, particularly those from cold Northeast states who flock there in winter. 

With temperatures cooling off, the annual migration is underway, despite Florida Gov. Ron DeSantis and his agenda attacking queer rights. Floridaā€™s hostile environment has a long history, including the failed attempt by Anita Bryant to keep gay teachers out of the Miami school district some 40 years ago. 

That homophobic tradition continues. In addition to the current administrationā€™s draconian ā€œDonā€™t Say Gayā€ law, and DeSantisā€™s threats to Disney World in Orlando, the LGBTQ section was recently removed from the Visit Florida website. 

Travel is perhaps the most important industry for much of Florida, especially the Southeast and many gay couples decide to retire to the land of eternal summer permanently. Then there are those who flock to ā€œwinterā€ in the state. 

Tony Adams is a journalist, editor, playwright, and former contributor to the South Florida Gay News. In 2016, he published a book, ā€œEnding Anita: How Two Key West Bartenders Won Gay Marriage for Florida.ā€ He and his husband spend time there every winter. But he finally had enough.

ā€œI didnā€™t like paying taxes to the DeSantis administration,ā€ he said. ā€œI sold my place in Fort Lauderdale.ā€ 

But he cautions against an all out boycott of the state. 

ā€œIf we desert Florida now, we are depriving our LGBTQ+ businesses of the revenue they need to stay alive,ā€ he said. ā€œFor that reason, I still visit Florida whenever I can, especially Key West and stay at the Island House. ā€¦ Florida has a long tradition of homophobia in politics. In my book I assembled timelines of hatred going back to the 1977 campaign of Anita Bryant against gay teachers in public schools. Floridians get angry and then come to their senses, but maybe it’s just the flatness of the Florida terrain that allows that pendulum to swing more violently than in other states.ā€

The Blade reached out to several gay snowbirds from the Northeast for comment for this story; all declined to comment.

Ed Salvato, a leader in LGBTQ marketing and education for the tourism and hospitality industry, weighed in on the deletion of the LGBTQ tourism page. 

ā€œThe removal felt like erasure, it also felt gratuitous,ā€ Salvato said. ā€œWhat harm was that information doing to anyone? I speak to many tourism and hospitality professionals as well as frequent travelers, almost all of whom were dismayed and angered by these actions.ā€ 

Anecdotally, Salvato said he has heard from friends who are fed up and want to move out. Those who visit frequently are rethinking their upcoming visit to the Sunshine State, he said.

ā€œRecently, I spoke to a woman in Florida very active in hospitality and the diversity, equity, and inclusion space who said she just heard from a large conference of mostly African Americans from Historic Black Colleges and Universities who are canceling their big annual conference there,ā€ Salvato said. ā€œSince they feel that these anti-LGBTQ actions as well as others feel racist. Like the attack on ā€˜critical race theoryā€™ teaching and attacks on DEI create an unsafe environment for their constituents. This is not good for the economy or reputation of Visit Florida.ā€ He added, this will ā€œtake a long time to repair.ā€

On those like Adams who sold their property but still visit, Salvato notes, ā€œIn fact that actually feels like a better reaction than friends who are boycotting the state entirely. To me that makes no sense. The folks in the capital will still draw their salary whether or not you visit your favorite gay guesthouse in Florida. However, the gay owners of that guesthouse or the queer staff will suffer so your boycott hurts the very community who you wish to protect.ā€

The sheer number of queer people, especially young gay men often escaping hostile families when they graduate high school or before, who find work in the nightlife industry is staggering. Each June, throngs of these young men arrive hoping to find a welcoming community, a job, and a sunny beach. 

ā€œIn the instance you cite,ā€ meaning snowbirds who may wish to sell property and visit long-term, ā€œthis shifts the benefits around the state so thatā€™s better than a boycott but I think the best thing we can do is to go and support those destinations and suppliers that are daring to continue to reach out to LGBTQ travelers despite the signals sent out by the conservative state government.ā€

Nadine Smith, executive director of Equality Florida, took a similar stance as Salvato. How much money does the state earn from the ā€œgay dollar?ā€ She said ā€œbillions.ā€

ā€œThe state not only disrespects a significant contributor to its tourism economy but also sends a dangerous and exclusionary message,ā€ Smith said. ā€œThis wasnā€™t just a petty move ā€” it’s part of a calculated campaign to push LGBTQ people out of public life in Florida. When questioned about why they did this, Visit Florida officials confirmed that this removal was done to align with DeSantis’s hostile policies and rhetoric toward the LGBTQ community.ā€

Like Salvato, Smith and Equality Florida recommend spending your dollars at LGBTQ-friendly businesses. 

ā€œResidents and visitors can also channel their economic influence toward companies that align with their values, sending a strong message that equality and inclusivity matter to them,ā€ Smith said. ā€œEquality Florida is a proud partner of Open To All, a growing coalition of businesses large and small that pledge to be welcoming and inclusive. Customers can search ā€˜open to allā€™ businesses on YELP,Ā empowering us to vote with our dollars and support businesses that prioritize and actively advocate for LGBTQ rights.Ā 

ā€œIn Fort Lauderdale,ā€ she added, ā€œVisitLauderdale.com launched a new social media campaign, ā€œNo End to the Rainbows,ā€ to reaffirm their commitment to promoting a welcoming and inclusive environment for all.ā€

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He loves Annieā€™s and will until the end

Mano continues to bring infectious passion to his job at iconic restaurant

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Mano remains a near constant presence at Annieā€™s. (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)

It’s rare for a restaurant to thrive for more than 75 years. Rarer still is a restaurant whose history is so deeply intertwined with the growth and resilience of a minority community. Annie’s Paramount Steakhouse in Washington, D.C.ā€™s Dupont Circle is one of those exceptional places ā€” a cornerstone not only for the city of Washington, but also for its vibrant queer community.

Several factors contribute to a restaurant like Annie’s becoming a foundational space of cultural and historical significance. Its welcoming atmosphere, fostered by a warm and inclusive staff goes beyond mere hospitality. The decor doesnā€™t just acknowledge Washington’s LGBTQ community ā€” it proudly celebrates it. And, of course, the award-winning food and drinks leave a lasting impression, making Annie’s a true icon in the nation’s capital.

When walking down 17th Street, where Annieā€™s is located after 76 years (even after moving three blocks north of its original location on 17th in 1985), it becomes understandable how this stretch of street has always been the heart of the ā€œgayborhood,ā€ regardless of season or political administration. The rainbow flags on nearly every light pole and stickers in nearly every window signal this place is not only a safe space for the LGBTQ community, but a place where being queer is worth celebrating.

Annieā€™s Paramount Steakhouse has long been a beacon of unwavering support for the LGBTQ community, particularly during times when openly identifying as LGBTQ was met with societal stigma or worse. This dedication, which started back in 1948, has cemented Annieā€™s as more than just a restaurant ā€” itā€™s a queer haven and cultural landmark.

Georgia Katinas, the general manager of Annieā€™s and granddaughter of Annieā€™s founder George Katinas, told the Blade supporting the D.C. LGBTQ community is a key part of running Annieā€™s.

ā€œI see Annie’s as a pillar of the LGBTQ community, and it’s important to me to continue that legacy,ā€ said Katinas. ā€œGetting involved in our community in many different facets, supporting LGBTQ nonprofits and organizations, hosting kickball brunches, hiring LGBTQ/queer members of the community ā€” all of that’s incredibly important to me, and it’s an honor. I take the family legacy very seriously, and I really am proud to continue it and to show up on behalf of my family and on behalf of the community and continue to be here.ā€

One of Annie’s unique legacies is its connection to the High Heel Drag Race, a beloved LGBTQ event on the Tuesday before Halloween. It started as a race between Annieā€™s and gay bar JR.ā€™s in 1986, and has grown into a vibrant mini Pride celebration on 17th Street now managed by the mayorā€™s office.

Although it takes a collective effort to transform Annieā€™s into the James Beard Award-winning restaurant it is today, one server has stood out for decades. Since 1975, his infectious attitude and heartfelt care have made him a cornerstone of the Annieā€™s experience, drawing loyal customers back time and again.

Mano, with his instantly recognizable horseshoe mustache and ever-present smile, has been a key part of the institution that is Annieā€™s for as long as most regulars can remember. Hired as the first male staff member in 1975, Mano has remained a key face for the restaurant going back to when Annie herself served food on the dining room floor.Ā 

ā€œWe treat every customer like a member of our family,ā€ Mano told the Blade during a recent interview discussing his lengthy career in the restaurant. ā€œNinety-nine percent of the people feel like regulars, and that 1 percent are on their way to becoming them.ā€ 

For 49 years, Mano has been a beloved fixture at Annieā€™s, his passion for the job evident to everyone around him ā€” from coworkers behind the bar to guests in the booths. Known for gestures like cutting steaks for diners, Manoā€™s dedication once saw him working seven days a week, a testament to his love for being part of the Annieā€™s team.

ā€œI feel every day better than the day before,ā€ he said. ā€œI love the people more than the day before. I look forward to loving them more. I can’t predict the future. The past is experience. Right now, at the moment, I am enjoying it.ā€

Despite his glowing appreciation for Annieā€™s, Mano has had to cut back from working at the restaurant as much as he once did. As he has grown older, Mano has slowly taken a day or two off from his work schedule.Ā 

Katinas became emotional when reflecting on Manoā€™s history with the restaurant. 

ā€œHe wants the guests to have the perfect experience,ā€ Katinas said. ā€œHe takes training very seriously. He has his own systems for how he counts money and uses the computer. He’s very particular but always so kind about it. When I watch him train new people now, I remember when he trained me. It’s very intentional and intense in moments because he cares so much.ā€

Manoā€™s presence and unwavering commitment to delivering impeccable service at Annieā€™s elevates him above many in the food service industry. His contributions also reinforce Annieā€™s cornerstone role in Washingtonā€™s queer history. When asked what sets his legacyā€”and by extension, Annieā€™s legacy within the LGBTQ communityā€”apart from that of a server at any other restaurant, one word stood out in his response: respect.Ā 

ā€œGive yourself some respect,ā€ Mano said. ā€œGive them [the customers] all the respect you want for yourself. If you cannot respect yourself, you cannot respect anyone else. I am a mirror reflecting you. When you are sitting at the table, I am a mirror reflecting you.ā€

Mano (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)

Katinas explained Manoā€™s passion for Annieā€™s is infectious and has helped shape the culture of the restaurant. She also explained that his passion reflects how Annie ran the restaurant in years prior, with caring about people at its center. Ā 

ā€œHe takes young servers under his wing,ā€ Katinas explained. ā€œHe takes busboys who don’t speak the shared language, and he treats them with such compassion and generosity. Annie was someone who would always sit and talk with you. She would put her hand on your shoulder and really listen. And Mano does that too.ā€

ā€œWe’re all busy, we’re all running around, but Mano really will sit and take the time to get to know you and to listen to your troubles or happy moments, anything,ā€ Katinas added. ā€œHe makes sure, even if he’s across the restaurant and someone walks in the door, he’ll yell ā€˜Welcome in!ā€™ The sense of hospitality is in his blood.ā€

Not only is he one of the most passionate people in Annieā€™s at any given moment, but Katinas also highlighted that he cares about the people and history of Annieā€™s in a truly unique way.  

ā€œHeā€™s like the lighthouse captain,ā€ she said, tearing up and smiling. ā€œHe has to be tethered to the building. He doesn’t get too far from it and is like, ā€˜No, no, I’m going to be at my post.ā€™ He’s always there in the front, and everyone knows to expect him there.ā€

ā€œHeā€™s got a heart bigger than his entire body,ā€ bar manager Scott Paxton chimed in. ā€œHe would do anything for just about anybody. He’s the first one to get here, he’s the last one to leave. He’s the most dedicated out of all of them. He’s always offering to help.ā€

ā€œFor a lot of us, heā€™s the first person that we met,ā€ Paxton added. ā€œThis place has been here for a long time with a long legacy, but he is a big part of that legacy. And so you wander in here for the first time and he’s the person that you meet first.ā€

ā€œYou don’t know where to sit or who’s who, but you probably end up sitting with Mano in his section and so it sort of becomes like your home base,ā€ he said. ā€œThere are hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of people that come through here and that’s their first contact with anyone and people that request him. And 40 years later, they come in on Wednesday night and they want to see him.ā€

Manoā€™s final thoughts about the restaurant reflected what multiple staff and guests have made clear ā€” he loves Annieā€™s and will until the end.Ā 

ā€œI wish them the best success,ā€ Mano said pointing to Katinas, Paxton, and other staff working at the bar. ā€œAnd they’re going to have it thanks to everybody, all these years of support for this place.ā€

Mano, center, with Annie Kaylor in 1985. (Washington Blade archive photo by Doug Hinckle)
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Local LGBTQ chefs share favorite Thanksgiving recipes

Happy holidays from Jamie Leeds, Patrick Oā€™Connell, Mr. Bake and more

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From left, Jamie Leeds, Patrick Oā€™Connell and Mr. Bake (Washington Blade photos by Michael Key and Joey DiGuglielmo)

Delightful dishes and cool cocktails are at least one guaranteed way to bring joy to Thanksgiving when the season may look challenging. This year, we asked prominent local LGBTQ chefs, mixologists, sommeliers, and restaurateurs to offer recipes and suggestions for Thanksgiving.Ā 

Jamie Leeds, Hankā€™s Oyster Bar

Jamie Leeds (Washington Blade file photo by Michael Key)

This recipe is the ultimate ode to Chesapeake Bay oysters, using both the oyster and its juice (known as the liquor) to season the stuffing. Leeds is a pioneer in the restaurant industry in Washington, D.C., and was also a a former Washington Blade Most Eligible Single.

Chesapeake Oyster Stuffing

(8 servings)

1 pint (approx. 24) Shucked Chesapeake oysters with liquor

1 cup Celery, small dice

1 cup Yellow onion, small dice

1 stick Butter

1 tsp Salt

1/2 tsp Old Bay seasoning

1/8 tsp Tarragon, fresh

1/8 tsp Thyme, fresh

1/2 tsp Lemon juice

4 Cups Bread, day old, 1ā€cubes

3 Tbsp Parsley, fresh, chopped

2 Each Eggs, beaten with 2 T water

Steps:

Strain oysters, reserving their liquid. Place oysters in a large mixing bowl with the cubed bread. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Coat the inside of a 2-quart (or slightly larger) baking dish with cooking spray.

In a 10-inch sautĆ© pan, melt the butter and add celery and onions. Cook on medium heat until vegetables are tender, about five minutes. Add salt, thyme, tarragon and Old Bay seasoning, stir to incorporate. Add reserved oyster liquor and cook for 2-3 minutes. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature. Once cool pour over oysters and bread. Mix gently until moistened. 

Gently fold in the eggs, lemon juice and parsley until fully incorporated. Transfer to the baking dish, cover and bake for about 30 minutes, then remove the foil and bake for another 10 to 15 minutes, until top is browned. Can be prepared 1-2 days in advance and kept refrigerated before baking. Tip: If you do not have day-old bread, place cubed bread on a baking sheet and put in a 350 degree oven for about 10-15 minutes until the bread is crusty on the outside. Let cool completely before adding oysters.

Mr. Bakeā€™s Award-Winning Banana Pudding

Kareem “Mr. Bake” Queeman (Photo courtesy of Capital Pride Alliance)

Kareem ā€œMr. Bakeā€ Queeman is famous for not only his fabulous presence on social media and reality TV, but also his Banana Pudding, which is the perfect addition to your holiday table. In this recipe, the James Beard semifinalist baker and owner of Mr. Bake Sweets shares his award-winning banana pudding recipe that helped Kareem win his first-ever competition as a baker (the first of many!), and showcase it on the ā€œKelly Clarkson Showā€ this past Easter. This is Kareemā€™s variation on a Southern family recipe passed down by his late aunt Janet Wills.

This holiday dessert is a delicious combination of easy to find and affordable grocery store ingredients, and even includes an option to use store-bought pudding mix if youā€™re in a time crunch (just make sure to save time to put your pudding in the fridge). Just keep in mind that youā€™ll need to chilled a bowl in advance and a standard mixer to make sure you get that perfect fluffy texture in the pudding. If youā€™re feeling extra ambitious, you can make a homemade whipped topping or spring for store-bought in a pinch to add as a final topping on your pudding. Serve in bowls or eat it straight out of the bowl (we wonā€™t judge) this pudding is sure to impress all season long.

Technique Tip:

ā— Make sure you chill your bowl and mixer attachments before whipping your

heavy cream into cream. This helps ensure the heavy cream whips up nice

and high, and wonā€™t take as much time.

ā— Make sure the bowl isnā€™t touching the water when placing your custard bowl

over the double boiler. Youā€™re using just the steam to cook, dissolve and

double your custard in volume.

ā— Temper your eggs into the cream make sure you add about a cup of the hot

into the egg mixture. This helps make sure you donā€™t cook and scramble eggs.

Swap Option:

ā— You can use all heavy cream or whole milk for Half and Half. (Half and Half is

equal parts heavy cream and whole milk)

ā— You can use Cool Whip if you donā€™t have heavy cream to make whipped cream

(use about 3 to 4 cups of Cool Whip)

Serving Size: Serves 12 to 15 people

Yield: Makes about 5 to 6 cups of custard.

Prep Time: Custard 6-8 minutes for cook and prep, 2 hour- overnight for chilling

3-6 minutes to whip and blend in custard into the sweeten whipped cream

6-10 minutes to assemble

30 min chill time in the fridge once everything is layered

Cook Time: 6-8 minutes

Serve and keep chilled and enjoy.

Hand mixer/stand mixer

Banana Pudding Trifle (From Scratch)

ā— 8 large egg yolks

ā— Ā½ cup granulated sugar

ā— 6 tablespoons cornstarch

ā— Ā½ teaspoon kosher salt

ā— 3 cups half & half

ā— 2 tablespoons pure vanilla extract

ā— 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature

ā— 14 oz can condensed milk

ā— 2 cups heavy cream

ā— 3 tablespoon confectioners sugar

ā— Vanilla wafer cookies 3 to 5 standard boxes (Nabisco preferred)

ā— 4-5 large bananas, sliced

ā— Optional: Whipped cream for topping

Preparation:

1. In a large heatproof bowl, whisk together egg yolks, sugar, cornstarch and

salt until well blended. The mixture will be thick and pale in color. Set aside.

2. In a medium saucepan, heat the half & half to a rolling boil (do not actually

boil). Remove pot from the heat.

3. Whisk 1 cup of the half and half into the egg-yolk mixture. Mix until

combined, then whisk in the rest of the half and half.

4. Set the bowl over a pot of simmering water (make sure the bottom of the

bowl doesnā€™t touch the water in the pot). Cook and whisk constantly, until the

mixture has thickened, 5 to 7 minutes.

5. Remove the bowl from the heat and whisk in vanilla until combined. Let the

mixture sit and cool, 2 to 3 minutes.

6. Whisk in the butter until it is melted and the pudding is smooth and silky.

7. Place a piece of plastic wrap directly on top of the pudding and let cool to

room temperature, about 30 minutes to an hour.

8. Whisk in the condensed milk and chill for 2 hours or overnight.

9. In the bowl of a standard mixer, use the whisk attachment to whip the heavy

cream on medium speed until it starts to thicken. Add the sugar and beat

until the cream holds stiff peaks. (Whipped cream should stand straight up

and stand in place when you remove your attachments.

10. Add the chilled pudding custard to the sweetened whipped cream, gently

folding it into each other.

11. To assemble the trifle, spoon 1/3 of the pudding into a glass trifle bowl. Top

with sliced bananas then wafer cookies. Repeat this process ending with

custard at the top, then add fresh sliced bananas, crushed wafer cookies and

fresh whipped cream (optional) as dƩcor.

Executive Chef Harley Peet, Bas Rouge

As a longtime resident of the Eastern Shore and an avid waterman, seafood naturally takes center stage in Peetā€™s dishes. Holidays conjure warmth, and the very essence of comfort food is the pot pie. On the Eastern Shore, where salty air mingles with generations of watermen’s tales, the choice was clear. Sweet, tender lobster and delicate sea scallops elevate this timeless classic, where rustic tradition meets refined flavor and presentation in a dish that captures a sense of place.

Scallop and Lobster Pot Pie on a Scallop Shell

Yield: 4 servings

ā€¢ 1 sheet puff pastry, cut into quarter-size circles

ā€¢ 1 each egg

ā€¢ 1 tablespoon milk

ā€¢ 5 slices smokey bacon, cut into half-inch pieces

ā€¢ 2 tablespoons unsalted butter

ā€¢ 1/2 cup celery, small diced

ā€¢ 1/2 cup onion, small diced

ā€¢ 1/2 cup carrots, small diced

ā€¢ 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

ā€¢ 1 quart heavy whipping cream, cold

ā€¢ To taste pepper, freshly ground

ā€¢ To taste lemon, juiced

ā€¢ 2 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated

ā€¢ 1 each lemon, sliced into wedges

ā€¢ Salt to taste

ā€¢ 4 each large sea scallops, raw and sliced into quarters [ask for scallop shells]

ā€¢ 2 each [2.5 lbs.] steamed lobster, diced into half inch pieces

ā€¢ Parmesan cheese, grated, to taste

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. In a small mixing bowl, beat the egg and add the milk to create an egg wash. Place the quarter-size circles of puff pastry on a baking sheet and brush the puff pastry with the egg wash. Bake in the oven for 12-15 minutes, or until the pastry is puffed and golden brown. Set the puff pastry aside.

Brown the bacon in a heavy-bottom Dutch oven or saucepan, such as Le Creuset or Staub. Once the bacon is browned, remove it from the Dutch oven and set it aside. Do not discard the bacon fat. Add the butter to the bacon fat in the Dutch oven. Add the celery, onion, and carrot to the pot, and sweat out the vegetables until they are translucent and soft. Take the Dutch oven with the vegetables off of the heat and sprinkle the flour over the vegetables to make a roux. Return the Dutch oven with the roux to the stove over medium heat. Add the cold heavy whipping cream and whisk to remove roux balls. Season the mixture with freshly ground pepper, to taste, and a squeeze of lemon juice, to taste, for a bit of acidity. Simmer the mixture until it gets thick. Once the mixture has thickened, remove it from the heat. Fold in the scallops and lobster into the mixture. Grate the Parmesan cheese into the mixture and stir to incorporate all ingredients. Set the mixture aside, and let it cool in the refrigerator. To note ā€“ the mixture can be made up to a couple of days in advance and kept in the refrigerator. (Add the seafood after to extend the lifetime of the mixture or use it immediately.)

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Arrange the scallop shell on a flat baking tray. If needed, arrange with some salt or oven-safe ware to hold the shells upright, in order to keep them from tipping over and losing the topping mixture [they will not fall or warp]. Scoop a [generous] tablespoon of the cold mixture into a scallop shell and top it with a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese. Bake in the oven until the cheese is bubbling and golden brown, or approximately 6-8 minutes. Top each stuffed scallop shell with a pre-baked puff pastry round. Garnish with lemon wedges and serve.

Chef Patrick Oā€™Connell, Inn at Little Washington

Patrick O’Connell (Washington Blade file photo by Joey DiGuglielmo)

Chef Patrick O’Connell, renowned for his three Michelin stars at The Inn at Little Washington, is excited to share one of his beloved recipes for the holiday season.

For nearly four decades, a shot of this soup was served as the first course on The Inn at Little Washingtonā€™s tasting menu during the winter months. This beloved classic from Chef Patrick Oā€™Connell found a new life at Patty Oā€™s CafĆ© and has been touted as ā€œThe worldā€™s most refined version of bean soup.ā€ Pureeing the beans and adding a touch of cream makes for a delicate soup, but all the hearty flavors remain intact. The best of both worlds, and a perfect beginning for a fall or cold weather dinner.

White Bean Soup with Virginia Country Ham 

Ingredients (serves 8)

ā€¢ 1/2 pound dried Cannellini or Great Northern Beans

ā€¢ 5 strips of bacon

ā€¢ 2 medium onions, coarsely chopped

ā€¢ 5 leeks, chopped and thoroughly cleaned

ā€¢ 1 cup chopped celery

ā€¢ 4 bay leaves

ā€¢ 4 quarts chicken stock, preferably homemade

ā€¢ 1 ham bone (optional)

ā€¢ 2 cups heavy cream

ā€¢ Salt and cayenne pepper to taste

ā€¢ Optional garnishes: shaved country ham; fresh cream, whipped; cracked black pepper; minced chives

Directions: 

1. In a medium saucepan, cover the beans with cool water and soak overnight.

2. In an 8 quart stock pot, cook the bacon over medium high heat until browned. Add the onion, leeks, celery, and bay leaves and cook until the vegetables are tender, about 15 minutes.

3. Drain and rinse the beans and add them to the stock pot along with the heated stock and ham bone (if using). Simmer until the beans are very soft, about 1 hour.

4. Remove the ham bone and bay leaves from the soup. Puree the soup in small batches in a blender or food processor and strain.

5. Return the soup to the heat and add the cream. If the soup is too thick, add more stock or cream. Season with salt and cayenne.

6. At Patty Oā€™s CafĆ©, we pour the soup tableside over a bed of shaved local Virginia ham, and garnish with fresh cream whipped with cracked black pepper and fresh chives.

Jonathan Dearden, KNEAD Corporate Chef

KNEAD, one of the largest D.C.-based restaurant groups, is owned by gay couple Jason Berry and Michael Reginbogin.

Chef Deardenā€™s favorite recipe from the Succotash Prime menu that is perfect for Thanksgiving: “Gochujang Brussels Sprouts on our Succotash Prime menu is one of my favorite unique Thanksgiving sides. At the restaurant we fry in the deep fryer. This recipe has been adjusted to use an Air Fryer.”

Air Fried Gochujang Brussels Sprouts

Gochujang Vinaigrette

ā€¢ 380g gochujang (hot)

ā€¢ 150g orange juice

ā€¢ 20g garlic, minced

ā€¢ 30g ginger, minced

ā€¢ 20g Fresno chilies, finely chopped

ā€¢ 100g lime juice

ā€¢ 100g rice wine vinegar

ā€¢ 10g salt

ā€¢ 750g canola or vegetable oil (approx. 1 quart)

In a blender or food processor, combine gochujang, orange juice, garlic, ginger, Fresno chilies, lime juice, rice wine vinegar, and salt. Blend until smooth.

With the blender running, slowly stream in the canola or vegetable oil to emulsify. Adjust seasoning if needed.

For Plate-Up

ā€¢ 500g Brussels sprouts (about 1 pint)

ā€¢ 50g gochujang vinaigrette

ā€¢ 15g garlic chili crunch

ā€¢ 3g sesame seeds (white and black, mixed)

ā€¢ 3g scallions, sliced

ā€¢ Salt and black pepper, to taste

Preheat air fryer to 400Ā°F (200Ā°C).

Toss the Brussels sprouts with a small amount of oil (just enough to lightly coat them) and season with a pinch of salt.

Place the Brussels sprouts in the air fryer basket in a single layer. Cook for 12-15 minutes, shaking the basket halfway through, until the sprouts are golden brown and crispy.

Transfer the air-fried Brussels sprouts to a large bowl. Drizzle with 50g of the gochujang vinaigrette, tossing lightly to coat but keeping them crispy. Season with salt and black pepper as needed.

Plate the Brussels sprouts in a serving bowl and garnish with garlic chili crunch, sesame seeds, and sliced scallions.

Anthony Aligo, Barkada Wine Bar

Aligo Aligo and business partners Nicholas Guglietta and Nathan Fisher, all gay men, founded their cozy wine bar in late 2020. They are offering two recipes this season: mushroom stuffing and a cranberry royale drink.

Mushroom Stuffing

This savory and earthy dish is perfect for Thanksgiving, featuring tender mushrooms, aromatic herbs, and hearty bread. Itā€™s an excellent alternative or complement to traditional stuffing, especially for vegetarians or mushroom lovers. The dish balances rich flavors and comforting textures, making it a great side that pairs well with other Thanksgiving favorites like turkey, gravy, and cranberry sauce. With its umami depth and seasonal ingredients, this stuffing brings warmth and variety to the holiday table.

Mushroom Stuffing

Ingredients

ā€¢ 12 cups of one-inch dried bread cubes or dried stuffing mix

ā€¢ 1/2 cup salted butter

ā€¢ 2 onions

ā€¢1 cup celery

ā€¢1 clove garlic

ā€¢1/2 lb of your favorite mushrooms

ā€¢ 2 cups chicken or turkey broth

ā€¢1/3 cup fresh parsley

ā€¢ 2 tsp fresh rosemary

Melt butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add sliced mushrooms, onions, celery and minced garlic. Cook until tender. Pour in chicken/turkey stock. Add minced parsley and rosemary and salt and pepper to your liking. Let simmer for 1-2 minutes.

Add bread cubes to a large bowl. Pour the mixture in a bowl and mix. Stuffing should be moist but not mushy. If not moist enough, add water.

Grease a 2-quart baking dish. Add stuffing. Bake for 40-50 minutes at 375 until stuffing is slightly browned on top.

Cranberry Royale

This drink is a festive and refreshing cocktail, perfect for Thanksgiving celebrations. With a blend of tart cranberry juice, a hint of orange, and a splash of dry Lambrusco, it offers a beautiful balance of flavors and a light, sparkling finish. The cranberry brings a seasonal twist, while the Lambrusco adds effervescence, making it an ideal aperitif to start the holiday. Its bright red hue adds a festive touch to the Thanksgiving table, celebrating the flavors and colors of the season.

ā€¢ 0.5 oz Vodka

ā€¢ 0.5 oz Orange Juice

ā€¢ 1.5 oz Cranberry Juice

ā€¢ 3.0 oz Lambrusco (dry)

Shake the cranberry, orange, and vodka with ice, and strain into a flute or coupe. Top with Lambrusco and garnish with orange peel.

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a&e features

Queer writer reflects on assault, drug use, more in ā€˜Mean Boysā€™

An interview with Geoffrey Mak

Published

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(Book cover image via Amazon)

Queer Chinese American writer Geoffrey Mak takes the personal essay to new, and sometimes unsettling, heights, in his book ā€œMean Boys: A Personal Historyā€ (Bloomsbury, 2024). Described as a ā€œmemoir-in-essays,ā€ Mak, the gay son of an evangelical minister, takes readers on his volatile and visceral personal journey, which includes the techno clubs of Berlin, various illicit substances, his sexual assault, and ultimately an examination of mass-murderer Elliot Rodger. Mak generously made time for an interview in advance of his November appearance at the Miami Book Fair.

BLADE: In the authorā€™s note for your book ā€œMean Boys: A Personal History,ā€ you said, ā€œI wrote most of these essays for the Internet,ā€ and that awareness of your readership extended to ā€œwhat they wanted to hear, and what they were wearing.ā€ Is that still your target audience or were you looking to expand it with the book?

GEOFFREY MAK: If I could go back in time and inspire my 26-year-old self to keep writing, I would say, ā€œBabe, in 10 years, youā€™ll get everything youā€™ve ever dreamed of, just online-only.ā€ I still see the natural habitat of the personal essay; yet the internet has a tendency for fragmentation and bubbles. When I decided to write a book at a mainstream press, I thought a lot about how a bookā€”unlike a paintingā€”is a mass-produced object, which makes it a more democratic medium, almost humble. I thought a lot about the opportunity to reach readers in Idaho or Oregon or Arkansas, and, in fact, I now get emails or Instagram DMs from readers in all those states. I wanted to explore universal themes that anyone can relate to, such as the wages of status in a high school cafeteria, or the process of forgiving oneā€™s own father.

BLADE: You also mentioned James Baldwin and Joan Didion, as well as Ed White, Hilton Als, and Alan Hollinghurst, among others. How important are these writers to you in your work?

MAK: I love that you called him Ed, because he is Ed. Each of those writers gave me something that is a part of me. Baldwin: conviction. Didion: cadence. White: self-mythology. Als: voice. Hollinghurst: sex.

BLADE: Another writer, Wesley Yang, is featured prominently in the ā€œIdentity Despite Itselfā€ essay. Do you know if heā€™s aware of being the essayā€™s subject? If so, has he told you how he feels about it?

MAK: Marco Roth, a friend, was one of the founding editors of n+1, and commissioned and edited Wesley Yangā€™s remarkable essay, ā€œThe Face of Seung-Hui Choā€ when it came out in 2008. After Marco read my book, he sent it to him. In Marcoā€™s view, I had at last given Yang his due: taking him as seriously as he deserved, which is something any writer should be flattered by. And I did take him seriously, calling him into account for his internalized Asian racism and transphobia. As to what Yang actually thinks, I have no idea. Can you believe it: Not a single person I wrote about in the book has reached out to me about it?

BLADE: In ā€œMy Father, The Minister,ā€ you address religion, not only as the son of a religious leader but also as a gay man. Religion continues to make headlines, whether itā€™s the role itā€™s playing in the 2024 election, the ongoing sexual abuse scandals in the various churches, or the war in Gaza. What role, if any, does religion play in your life at present?

MAK: I pay close attention to the religious life of this country. Two-thirds consider themselves religious. A lot of what I read disturbs me, nothing is surprising to me. I was heartened when, earlier this year, the United Methodist Church rescinded a ban on gay clergy. It was a rare victory because sexual difference remains the greatest divisive factor in American churches today. The articulation of the queer, Christian subject might be my highest priority as a writer today. (Out of all my essays, I consider ā€œCalifornia Gothicā€ my greatest work.) I donā€™t participate in organized religion, but I still study the Bible and read queer theology, particularly the work of Marcella Althaus-Reid and Linn Tonstad, major influences of mine. I count theologians as some of my closest friends. I was actually just emailing with the writer Garth Greenwell about how 4th-century apophatic theology has parallels with queer theory today. Iā€™m currently writing a novel about a trans-femme protagonist who finds her way to God. Iā€™m quite serious. Sometimes, I dream that if this whole writer career doesnā€™t pan out, I might go to Divinity School.

BLADE: You also write honestly about your drug usage in ā€œMean Boys.ā€ Thereā€™s a line in the ā€œCalifornia Gothicā€ essay that reads: ā€œAfter psychosis, and after addiction, I knew that whether I would recover came down to a single test: Could I find grace in the ordinary?ā€ Where are you now on that journey?

MAK: I happen to be sober now, but I have cycled through periods of limited drug use and sobriety since I finished that essay. I belong to a harm reduction community that keeps me accountable to my self-stated goals. For several years, I have had a buddy system, which differs from a sponsor relationship because itā€™s non-hierarchical, with a friend Iā€™m extremely close withā€”we regularly check in with cravings, take stock of our weekly stressors, talk about books. If we ever call the other, we know to drop whatever weā€™re doing and pick up, because itā€™s an emergency. One night, he called me when he relapsed on meth, and I ran straight to his apartment, we flushed out the syringes, and cried in each otherā€™s arms until the sleeping pills kicked in. Since then, heā€™s been sober for almost two years. Recently, Iā€™ve been talking to him about ā€œjunk time,ā€ which are the late-night brain rot hours when I canā€™t read and crave drugs the most. I need to start finding grace in the ordinariness of junk time. Thanks for the reminder.

BLADE: What was involved in your decision to write about the aftermath of your sexual assault in the essay ā€œIn Arcadia Ego?ā€

MAK: OK, so the first section of that essay originated as a Facebook post. People reached out with caring words, although the writing partly explored my reaching a limit with caring words. The material was so raw that I put it down for at least a few years. After I had some distance from my own assault, I picked up the essay again and suddenly realized I was bored of my own pain. It wasnā€™t going to teach me anything, because suffering isnā€™t a university. I wanted to party, so I wrote about that. Nothing about this was virtuous or wholesome or dignified. I got fucked up and screamed with my gays on the dance floor like sorority girls at a bachelorette party. In a previous era, you had a party to commemorate an occasion. My friends and I partied for no reason; the party justified itself. Life is like this, too. You never need a reason.

BLADE: Was the lengthy, titular essay that closes out the book, the first essay written for the book, and therefore the inspiration?

MAK: It was the last essay I finished. In fact, we delayed the release date of the book because I couldnā€™t finish it. Itā€™s my most original writing and original thinking. Itā€™s also not for everyone.

BLADE: In the ā€œMean Boysā€ essay, you write about the ultimate mean boy ā€“ mass-murderer Elliot Rodger. Did that essay begin as being about Rodger or did that come later?

MAK: This was one of the first essays I wrote where I didnā€™t outline it or know where it was ending up in advance. I started with an imageā€”the Lacoste polo with the popped collarā€”and just kept writing. Itā€™s meandering, because thatā€™s how I wrote it, working through the innate turbulence of each paragraph until a door appeared into the next paragraph. I eventually found my way to Rodger. There was a time I thought I could write the essay without reading the manifesto, until I realized, cā€™mon, I was being chicken, I had to read the manifesto. Once I finished it, I knew I had to rewrite the entire essay.

BLADE: Have you started writing or thinking about your next book project?

MAK: Iā€™m working on a novel about degenerate ravers in Berlin. While the UK and Germany have novels about raving, America curiously doesnā€™t have one. So, I decided to write one.

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