Travel

A voyage to Iceland, Greenland, Denmark and beyond

Cruise of a lifetime to unforgettable ports of call

Published

2 years ago

September 9, 2023

Reykjavik deserves a few days to tour since it has some of the greatest landscapes and wonders on Earth (Photo by Jason Villemez)

(Mark Segal is publisher of the Philadelphia Gay News. This story is courtesy of the National LGBTQ Media Association.)

LGBTQ people like to travel, and like many people they take cruises to see the world or just to relax. It used to be when taking something as personal as a cruise, where you’ll be with people in close quarters and where conversations can be easily overheard, you might have felt uncomfortable to be yourself. Today there are numerous LGBTQ cruises for almost every segment of the LGBTQ community where you can be your fabulous self and party until dawn or more. Among those companies are Atlantis adventures, primarily for men, and Olivia cruises for women. But those companies still comprise only a fraction of available cruise sailings. So, how welcoming are non-LGBTQ cruises?

My husband Jason and I have been on numerous cruises on many LGBTQ and non-LGBTQ cruise lines. For our current trip we booked a cruise on Oceania, a line known for its food (they claim the best food at sea), exceptional attention to detail, and out of the ordinary shore excursions. We chose Oceania once before, and it was above most of the other cruises we’ve done. Another advantage of Oceania is that they do exotic itineraries. Our July cruise started in Reykjavik, Iceland and then proceeded to Greenland, the Shetland Islands, Denmark, and Sweden before ending in Oslo, Norway after a whopping 15 days. We traveled with another gay couple, our friends Klay and Val, who are out and proud like us.

And that really is the heart of the question: How out and proud can LGBTQ people be on a traditional cruise?

On the first night of the cruise, the ship promoted an “LGBTQQIA+ Get Together” in their daily schedule printout. The 4 of us attended along with 3 other couples, though we weren’t the only LGBTQ people on board. Throughout the trip, we met many other LGBTQ people, mostly couples, who also had other cruise experiences. I asked many of them why they picked this cruise over an LGBTQ cruise, as well as how comfortable they felt being out on this cruise.

The overwhelming answer was that people on a cruise, like the general population, gravitate to like minded people, and since everyone’s on vacation it’s easier to get along. Most of them were comfortable being open about their sexuality. Jason and I felt comfortable enough to show our emotions at times and hold hands or put an arm around each other, just like non-LGBTQ couples. It made a larger point for me. Could we have done that a decade ago? The answer is: probably not. So in that regard, traditional cruises pass the comfort level for LGBTQ people. But what about the more nuanced reality of being an LGBTQ person on a cruise with 97% non-LGBTQ people?

Like any cruise, we found ourselves finding our own friends who turned out to be a fascinating lot. One of those was a couple who work at a small college and are developing new ways to be inclusive to LGBTQ students. Another was a retired couple from Seattle, another from Dallas. That’s the secret sauce in cruising, finding the people you get along with and having a nice time.

For all of us, the two factors that led us to this cruise were the itinerary and the reputation of Oceania. Let’s start with the cruise stops.

Reykjavik, Iceland

The departing port of the cruise, Reykjavik, deserves a few days to tour since it has some of the greatest landscapes and wonders on Earth, and if you’re lucky as we were, you will be met by an active volcano. We had arranged 3 days of touring with an LGBTQ tour company called Pink Iceland. There not only is a sizable LGBTQ population in Iceland, but it seems everywhere you go there are rainbows. The country even has had a lesbian Prime minister. It’s one of the most LGBTQ-friendly places on earth.

Our first day we traveled to the south shore and marveled at the raw natural landscape, which looks like something from the moon but is actually dried lava with moss growing atop. The volcanoes and glaciers are everywhere, and with an abundance of volcanoes, you’ll see steam coming up from the ground in certain places. This has translated to natural geothermal power that powers the country, as well as natural glacier water (which tastes better than any bottled water) in every home. Later that day we went to the black beach at Reynisfjara with its basalt rock formation from eruptions thousands of years ago. We also visited and walked behind several waterfalls, and the sunshine meant that rainbows were aplenty. It was wet, magical, and romantic.

Our second day began with an adventurous ATV ride on that moonscape with a stop at a dormant volcano’s top ridge. With me driving, Jason held on for dear life. Afterwards, we spent the afternoon in the world famous Blue Lagoon spa, where there are pools of volcanic minerals and silica that are a color of blue you’ll see no other place on earth. As you soak you can apply those minerals as a face mask. Even though it was around 50 degrees outside, by the time we finished, we were all pleasantly overheated.

Our third day we toured the capital city, which is easily walkable and features a giant rainbow street, and then attended a get-together organized by Eva and Birna, the owners of Pink Iceland, with some local LGBTQ community members, including a member of parliament and a playwright who was the first to come out in his village in western Iceland. The audience was among the most engaged I’ve ever spoken to, and they asked insightful questions and were delightful to engage with. Iceland is a country built on stories (called the Sagas), so the people are keen to learn the stories of others.

After our three days in Reykjavik, we went onto our ship, the Oceania Riviera.

The ship had recently come out of dry dock with a total renovation. The cabin was the most beautiful we’ve ever seen at sea and had ample closet space and a bathroom with a rainfall shower. Our home away from home would be comfy.

Our friends Klay and Val opted for a larger room with butler service. The room had more closet space than some New York apartments, and the amenities were above average. But their butler, as they learned, seemed to have had no understanding of his role and often overcomplicated things.

Isafjordur, Iceland

Iceland is still developing its infrastructure for tourism. Our ship had provided 10 shore excursions, but all were completely sold before we even boarded the ship, including the one we wanted most, whale watching. The fact that shore excursions sell out months before the trip was not fully communicated to us. When we attempted to book 6 weeks before the trip, many ports had no available excursions. Nevertheless, in this small fishing village, left to our own devices we discovered one of the treasures of Iceland, The Tjoruhusid Restaurant. Known to be the most traditional Icelandic food in the country, you still needed a reservation since locals and tourists come from all over for its cuisine. But in true Icelandic hospitality, the staff found room and were kind enough to seat us, and I must admit that while I’m not a seafood eater it was amazing. The buffet meal included a fish soup, five types of fish entrees, including fish throat, which I didn’t know existed, various vegetable combinations, and coffee, biscuits, and chocolate.

After the meal, we took a stroll through the village and discovered that among the fishing boats, fjords, and homes, the town square had a giant rainbow painted down the center. That’s two for two cities in Iceland with rainbow streets.

Paamiut, Greenland

Our second stop was a small village of about 1300 whose complete economy was fishing and seal hunting. Very few cruise ships have ever stopped there, and for good reason. While there are very few facilities and the infrastructure is sparse, the main problem was that as we approached, the seas were somewhat choppy and we found ourselves in a sea of Icebergs. Before I could suggest to everyone that we all break out into a chorus of “My Heart Will Go On,” the captain stated the obvious: he canceled the adventure in Paamiut. It was not safe to take the tender boats to shore (there was nowhere to dock in a port that small). However, a consolation prize was being treated to a sea of majestic icebergs as we sailed away.

That evening the entertainment and information system in all the staterooms went down. No television, no stateroom information, no map. Not only was the television system down, but the ship’s entire network went down as well. The casinos were out of service, and bartenders and shop staff had to write down stateroom numbers on paper receipts. Getting information about the problem was met with what would become a common complaint on this trip: a lack of communications skills from the staff.

But we moved on to the next port of call, which turned out to be one of the highlights of the trip.

Nuuk, Greenland

The capital of Greenland, Nuuk, held its Pride celebration the week before we arrived. Discovering small cities with Pride events astonishes me even to this day. We had tried to find a Nuuk Pride T-shirt but since the city is so small (17,000 people) the organizers told me they didn’t have the funds to create merch.

For our excursion for the day, we chose the Fjord Boat Tour, which was majestic. Our boat driver dodged icebergs like a taxi weaving in and out of traffic. When we stopped for a few minutes, the calmness and solitude, being surrounded by ice and mountains, was otherworldly.

Sadly, our driver said that ten years ago, none of the ice in the water was there, and that it has been a result of climate change and melting ice. I shudder to think what the area will be like in another ten years. There might be so much ice that boats can’t get anywhere.

Qaqortoq, Greenland

In Qaqortoq, a 1,500-person city south of Nuuk, the excursion we chose was the “Kaffemik,” basically enjoying coffee and traditional Greenland cakes in a private house. We walked up the hills and passed by colorful homes to get to the residence of our host, an 80 year old widow with Swedish ancestry who was charming and explained Greenlandic culture. One of her children was there to help translate, while her other children live in Denmark, which Greenland is a territory of. During the pandemic, Greenland received ample funds from Denmark to make up for the loss of income in industry.

After we wrapped up our sightseeing, that evening, while walking around the ship, we came across a portrait of a woman who is the godmother of the ship, Cat Cora, the famous Iron Chef. She and her wife and children were also among the guests on board with us. We went to see her give a talk the following evening. We figured since there was no working casino or state room entertainment, that meeting an Iron Chef would be entertainment worth seeing. During her presentation she introduced her family, and afterwards we got a chance to chat. When I asked her about how it felt introducing her wife, she said “that’s what we need as a community, we need to be more visible.” That was music to our ears.

Torshavn (Faroe Islands), Denmark

This charming capital of the Faroe Islands is a wonder of old architecture and homes with grass roofs. The town’s Library had several LGBTQ books on display in the window due to the previous week’s Pride celebration. This trip, after learning about Pride in Nuuk, Greenland and also the Faroe Islands, proved to me what I’ve always believed, that Pride is one of the best exports America has ever given to the world. I thought of my friend Ellen Broidy who helped write the resolution that created Pride, and all of us who marched in that first Pride in 1970 in New York.

Lerwick (Shetlands Islands), Scotland

Believe it or not, it was actually stated in the ship’s excursion brochure “encounters with Shetland ponies is not guaranteed” which gave me a chuckle. The tour we were on in Lerwick included going to the town’s museum to learn about the Shetland Bus, where people ferried people and supplies back and forth between Norway during WWII, as well as, thankfully, a stop at a Shetland Pony farm. Seeing the ponies and the beautiful green hills full of sheep was the highlight of this stop. One surprise was that while the Shetlands are part of Scotland, the citizens feel culturally closer to Norway, and there are lots of Viking motifs.

Haugesund, Norway

While there were excursions available to see the Norwegian fjords, by this point in the trip we needed a little bit of a break, so we simply walked around the town’s main square, bought a magnet as a souvenir, and enjoyed the warm sunshine, the first day above 50 degrees we’d had in two weeks. One of the LGBTQ couples did go on a fjord tour, and they said it was beautiful despite spending three hours in a bus to get to them.

Skagen, Denmark

Skagen is the picture-perfect Danish seaside town. I’d recommend not doing any guided tours and just walking around the city’s downtown area on your own. There are museums, art galleries, shopping, and plenty of outdoor cafes and bistros. There are also top notch garden shops and plenty of greenery for those who have a green thumb.

Gothenburg, Sweden

Sweden’s second largest city has a population of 579,000 and is a model of a beautiful European city with second empire buildings and a very large central shopping area. We stumbled upon some fun shops, including one dedicated to Pippi Longstocking, as well as the largest cinnamon rolls and cookies we’ve ever seen. We took some time to sit in a city park and enjoy the surroundings.

On the final night of the cruise, we enjoyed a performance by Tiano, the tenor and piano duo of Shimi Goodman and Chris Hamilton. They dedicated one of the love songs to Val and Klay, who were celebrating their 25th anniversary. The duo will soon embark on a North American tour, and we’re looking forward to seeing them again. They’re also a couple, and they mentioned that they were glad to meet other LGBTQ people on the ship.

Oslo, Norway

The cruise ended in Oslo, Norway, and many passengers planned a couple day layover before heading home. But others, like Jason and I, decided to head to the airport the morning of disembarkation, and we purchased tickets from the ship that would transfer us and our luggage to the airport. The luggage was put in a truck, and we were ushered into buses. The process was confusing, and there was no ship representative at the airport to direct us where our luggage was. Ultimately, the truck with the luggage arrived about 15 minutes after we did, and everyone was reunited with their bags.

Compared to the other Oceania cruise we did, this one failed to meet expectations. While it had what seemed like the best cabin at sea and a wonderful itinerary, the staff, while helpful, seemed to be learning on the job. The other major disappointment was the food. Oceania no longer has the best food at sea. Other than the specialty restaurants, the food was similar to any other cruise at best, and at times some of the food was severely disappointing. Also disappointing were the ships lack of available shore excursions, and lack of communications skills. The lack of information, especially from the cruise director and excursion staff, was subpar compared to many other cruises we’ve been on. And while the cruise did go to ports that have little infrastructure, there are ways to mitigate that which the cruise staff did not do.

While the cruise did not meet Oceania’s reputation, it still afforded us the delight in the people we met and the destinations we saw along the way. That’s what we’ll remember most. A private party with some of the LGBTQ guests we met; Tiano on that final night; the maitre’d in the dining room who seemed to know the name of every passenger on the ship. Each evening we had the delight of sharing our experience with our friends over dinner.

To sum up the reason for this trip, as an LGBTQ couple, we felt comfortable being ourselves on a non-LGBTQ cruise, and the other LGBTQ people we spoke with didn’t seem to have any issues either. As for whether we’d take Oceania again, we sadly would not unless the itinerary was completely unique. Oceania seemed to have lost the sparkle that made it one of the best cruise companies around.

But despite the ship’s faults, seeing Iceland, Greenland, and so many other places was an experience of a lifetime. We can’t wait to go back to Reykjavik someday and see more of the country and meet more of the people, and we’re forever grateful to have seen Greenland, a place of unparalleled beauty and where few others have ever been. It’s a reminder that the planet has existed long before humans, and that we are but a small part of the wide wonder of nature

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Travel

Park City a mountain haven of LGBTQ inclusivity

Utah getaway hosting two LGBTQ ski events in coming months

Published

4 months ago

December 28, 2024

Joey Amato

Park City, Utah (Photo by SeanPavonePhoto/Bigstock)

Nestled in the Wasatch Mountains of Utah, Park City is a gem for outdoor enthusiasts, history buffs, and those seeking a world-class dining and relaxation experience. Originally a silver mining town, it has evolved into one of the most popular destinations in the United States, offering not just world-class ski resorts and summer outdoor activities, but also a rich blend of culture, fine dining, and leisure. Whether you are planning a winter getaway, visiting the renowned Sundance Film Festival, or just a weekend escape, Park City offers something for everyone. Among the many things that make it a premier destination are events like the Park City Wine Fest.

Park City Wine Fest is a premier event that draws wine lovers from across the country. Held annually, this multi-day festival is a celebration of fine wines from around the globe, paired with the breathtaking backdrop of the mountains. The event is perfect for both wine connoisseurs and casual drinkers alike, offering something for every palate.

The Wine Fest is not just about tasting a wide variety of wines; it also showcases local cuisine, with restaurants and chefs from Park City presenting gourmet dishes that complement the wines. Wine education is another key aspect of the event, with seminars led by sommeliers, winemakers, and wine experts who share their knowledge on everything from pairing wine with food to understanding different wine regions.

The festival is a true highlight in Park City’s event calendar, combining the beauty of the location with a sophisticated, yet relaxed vibe. Attendees can explore a variety of experiences, including scenic mountain hikes paired with wine tastings, grand tastings at the base of Park City Mountain Resort, and intimate, wine-paired dinners, like the one I attended at the beautiful Waldorf Astoria. The Rustic Reds dinner was a wonderfully sophisticated wine-paired feast led by Wine Academy of Utah’s Jim Santangelo. The five-course meal began with a delicious amuse-bouche followed by beef tartare, endive salad, filet mignon and chocolate cake, each paired perfectly with a glass of wine hand selected by Santangelo.

For those who appreciate fine dining, Park City is home to a variety of outstanding restaurants, with Edge Steakhouse being one of the best. Located in the Westgate Park City Resort & Spa, Edge Steakhouse blends traditional steakhouse fare with an innovative approach to cooking. Known for its exceptional service, high-quality cuts of meat, and fresh seafood, this restaurant offers a dining experience that is both luxurious and satisfying.

What sets Edge Steakhouse apart is its attention to detail. The restaurant’s menu features a variety of cuts, from Wagyu beef to dry-aged steaks, all expertly prepared to perfection. Additionally, Edge offers an extensive wine list, making it easy to find the perfect pairing for your meal. The combination of excellent food, a sophisticated atmosphere, and top-notch service has earned Edge Steakhouse numerous awards and recognitions, making it a must-visit for any foodie in Park City.

No visit to Park City would be complete without a stop at High West Distillery, the first legally licensed distillery in Utah since Prohibition. High West offers a unique experience, blending the old-world charm of the American West with modern-day distilling techniques. Located in the heart of downtown Park City, High West is known for its award-winning whiskeys, but it’s also a fantastic place to grab a bite to eat.

High West’s rustic atmosphere is part of its charm, and the distillery offers a range of whiskey varieties, from smooth bourbons to bold ryes, all made using time-honored methods. In addition to tastings, visitors can take tours of the distillery to learn about the history of whiskey-making in Utah and the art of distillation. I had the chance to attend an elegant Woodland Masquerade at the distillery in Wanship, a quick 20-minute drive from Park City. The event contained entertainment, delicious food and of course whiskey.

Park City isn’t just about great food and drinks – it’s also a haven for those looking to relax and recharge. One of the standout lodging options in Park City is LIFT Park City, a modern mountain resort located in the heart of Canyons Village. LIFT offers luxury accommodations with a contemporary design, providing guests with all the comforts of home while being just steps away from world-class skiing, hiking, and biking trails.

LIFT Park City is designed with both relaxation and adventure in mind. The resort features spacious residences with fully equipped kitchens, private balconies, and stunning views of the mountains. Guests can enjoy the outdoor pool, fitness center, and other amenities that make it easy to unwind after a day of exploring.

Speaking of relaxing, after a day of outdoor activities, there’s no better way to unwind than with a visit to Serenity Spa. Located within the Westgate Park City Resort & Spa, Serenity Spa offers a wide range of treatments designed to soothe both body and mind. From massages and facials to body wraps and aromatherapy, the spa’s expert therapists provide personalized treatments that leave you feeling refreshed and rejuvenated.

The spa’s tranquil atmosphere is the perfect antidote to the stresses of everyday life. With its serene decor, calming scents, and peaceful music, Serenity Spa creates a truly relaxing environment where guests can escape from the hustle and bustle of the outside world. Whether you’re indulging in a full day of pampering or just popping in for a quick treatment, Serenity Spa offers a luxurious retreat that will leave you feeling revitalized.

For those seeking a cozy and casual dining experience, Cafe Terigo is a local favorite. This family-owned restaurant is known for its delicious Italian-inspired dishes, made with fresh, locally sourced ingredients. Located on Main Street in downtown Park City, Cafe Terigo has a charming, rustic atmosphere that makes it a perfect spot for a leisurely lunch or dinner.

The menu at Cafe Terigo features a variety of Italian and Mediterranean dishes, from wood-fired pizzas to house-made pastas. The restaurant is also known for its creative salads, seafood dishes, and delectable desserts. Whether you’re in the mood for a light bite or a hearty meal, Cafe Terigo’s menu offers something for everyone.

Park City is home to not one, but two gay ski weeks. The first, Elevation Utah takes place Feb. 19-23, 2025, and features Après-ski events, dance parties and casual meet-ups that draw attendees from around the country. Queer Ski will take place from March 18-25 and is a known to be more of a localized event drawing LGBTQ individuals from the region.

As my time in Park City came to an end, I couldn’t help but reflect on the town’s unique charm and diversity of experiences. From the adrenaline of skiing down powdery slopes to the peacefulness of a sunset hike, Park City captures the essence of adventure and tranquility in equal measure. The warmth of its local community, combined with its breathtaking natural beauty, makes this mountain town a place you’ll want to return to again and again.

Our final evening consisted of the Rarities & Reserves tasting at Red Pine Lodge. We had the chance to sample a wonderful selection of small-batch and boutique wines from around the country in the most wonderful setting, high atop a mountain. It was the perfect way to end a perfect trip discovering Park City. Whether you’re a ski enthusiast or a nature lover, Park City should be on your list of places to explore.

Enjoy the Journey!

Travel

Why Portugal’s Golden Visa is the ultimate plan B for LGBTQ+ Americans post-election

Published

5 months ago

November 30, 2024

Susan Hornik

The re-election of Donald Trump as President of the United States has left many Americans uncertain about their future. And none more so than those in the LGBTQ+ community. In a country that so many had considered a home and safe refuge for life, the next few years are now filled instead with a feeling of “what happens next?”.

For many, it has brought into sharp relief the simple question of whether Europe now offers a brighter path for their long-term future. Google searches for “Move to Europe” jumped by 226% in the week after the election, and have remained high since.

But for those with careers, families and other ties in the United States, for whom a complete relocation isn’t an option, Golden Visa programs are proving to be a popular choice.

“We’ve had a huge surge in enquiries since the election result” says Nathan Hadlock, Managing Director of Pela Terra – a Golden Visa investment fund in Portugal. “I’d say about 25% of those enquiries have come from the LGBTQ+ community.”

“We’re speaking to people every day who suddenly feel like the security of a second passport and knowing they have the optionality second home in Europe, is invaluable”

What is a Golden Visa?

Common around the world (even the US has one!), Golden Visas typically provide a preferential pathway to a country’s passport in exchange for investment into the country.

Most people who wish to gain a second passport would need to relocate to any given country, live there for 5-10 years consecutively and eventually become eligible for citizenship.

Golden Visa programs tend to short-circuit this in exchange for investment, allowing you to qualify for citizenship in Europe while continuing to live in the US.

Portugal is the number one rated program globally, and only requires you to visit for 7 days a year for 5 years. After that, you can apply for a passport – at which point you have the right to live, work & retire in any European country for the rest of your life.

How Does The Investment Side Work?

Citizenship is something that every country sees as sovereign, and the investment required to access it reflects this.

In Portugal’s program, the minimum investment is €500,000, or $530,000. That’s the bad news.

The good news is that it is an investment. Choose wisely and you’ll not only get your money back along with your passport, you’ll also be able to earn some good returns in the meantime.

“People often mistake the word investment for cost” said Nathan Hadlock. “It’s only when we get them on the phone and explain that we’re targeting to give them a 7% return annually, as cash into their bank account, that they start to get it”.

“Of course $530,000 is a lot of money for a passport. But if you’re earning $265,000 over 7 years and then getting the money back along with your citizenship… it starts to look like a pretty good deal.

Why Portugal’s Golden Visa Is Rated Number One

Regularly rated as the world’s top citizenship by investment program, there are three key characteristics which make Portugal’s Golden Visa so popular amongst American investors:

Minimal Residency Requirements: Spend just seven days a year in Portugal, allowing individuals to maintain ties to the U.S. while building their future in Europe
Path to Citizenship: After five years, investors can apply for a Portuguese passport, granting them access to the European Union’s 27 member states
Flexibility for Families: The program is inclusive, extending benefits to same-sex partners and dependents

Portugal: A Haven for LGBTQ+ Expats

Portugal has established itself as one of the most progressive countries in Europe for LGBTQ+ rights. From the legalization of same-sex marriage in 2010 to comprehensive anti-discrimination laws and legal gender recognition for transgender individuals, the country provides a supportive framework for LGBTQ+ residents and visitors alike.

Rated the 4th safest country in the world, the naturally welcoming culture includes a vibrant LGBTQ+ scene in both Lishon and Porto, the two largest cities. From inclusive neighborhoods like Príncipe Real to annual Pride events that draw global crowds, inclusiveness is celebrated everywhere. The nation’s warm hospitality and cultural richness create an ideal environment for LGBTQ+ individuals seeking a sense of belonging and security.

Golden Visas For Good

Until 2023, 95% of Golden Visa investment was funnelled into Real Estate investments. This short-sighted policy created house price inflation, leaving local teachers reportedly living in tents because they couldn’t afford rents in Lisbon.

Thankfully the real estate option was shut down last year, and a few funds have pioneered a new “Golden Visas For Good” model in their wake. “When I arrived in Portugal from the US in 2018, I couldn’t believe all this foreign capital wasn’t being directed towards the common good” said Hadlock. “It felt like a wasted opportunity, but I’m proud to say we’re at the forefront of trying to change that”.

Pela Terra is one of the funds leading the charge. Investor’s capital is used to buy olive and almond farms in the Alentego region of Portugal. The team then focuses on improving soil health on the land, allowing it to capture more carbon from the atmosphere and hold more water. Crucially, they also believe it’ll produce more nutritious food, meaning strong returns for investors.

“We target a 7-9% annual return. It isn’t beating the S&P 500 most years, but we’re making investments into an incredibly durable asset class and prioritizing, above all else, the full preservation and return of your investment in Year 7. So beating inflation isn’t bad.”

Conclusion

Portugal’s Golden Visa program is more than an investment; it’s a lifeline for LGBTQ+ Americans seeking a safer, freer future . By choosing partners like Pela Terra, investors can align their financial goals with their values, securing both their residency and a sustainable legacy.

If you’re considering your options, there’s no better time to act. Learn more about Pela Terra and take the first step toward securing your European future today.

Travel

Celebrity ASCENT transatlantic cruise continues

Watching disappointing election returns at sea

Published

6 months ago

November 11, 2024

Peter Rosenstein

Day two continued in a relaxed way after I got back from my walk around Alicante. I headed to a light lunch at Café Baccio. Then back to the cabin to shower, and up to the retreat lounge for a meet and greet with the ship’s officers. The captain was a no-show but Christophe, the great Hotel Director, was there. I had met him last year on the BEYOND, and it was good to see him again. Then off to the LGBTQ happy hour in the Eden lounge. It was fun to see old friends from the UK there, and meet new ones. The happy hour will take place every evening and is listed in the ship’s daily calendar.

Then to the theater for the early show, “Bridges.” It is a great production with some incredibly talented performers. Then seven of us went to Luminae for dinner. After dinner, Andy, Terry, and I, headed back to the Eden lounge for another show; it didn’t disappoint. Then it was close to midnight, way past my bedtime, and a wonderful end to day two.

Day three dawned fairly sunny as we approached Gibraltar. They predicted rain but it seemed to be holding off. I had been here before. Had my usual breakfast delivered to the room, then headed to the gym. While sitting on the Lifecycle looking out over the Gibraltar port, it began to rain. I decided to spend the day onboard. I headed to the Retreat lounge for my cappuccino and found my friends there. To me the lounge is a big reason to be in the Retreat. It turned out to be a windy and rainy day, but that didn’t stop other passengers from heading into town and going to visit the monkeys. Turned out to get up the mountain they needed taxis as the cable car wasn’t running due to the wind

I had my Kindle, did some reading in the lounge, and then with Jonathan, headed to my first meal in the Oceanview buffet. It was crowded, but we found a table quickly, and enjoyed a relaxed lunch. The buffet is impressive, every kind of food you could want, and an array of desserts that added lbs. by just looking at them. Will have to double my time in the gym. Then because of the obviously hard day I was having it was back to the cabin to relax. I did make the mistake of turning on the TV, watched MSNBC, and got a dose of politics, including clips of Trump’s Nazi rally in Madison Square Garden. My thought was this could help Harris. The only up news was the Commanders, and Jayden Daniels Hail Mary touchdown pass, and seeing more and more people cancel their subscriptions to the Washington Post in response to their non-endorsement of Harris.

Then back to Eden to the LGBTQ+ happy hour, a fun way to begin the evening. The decision for this evening was dinner before show, and we headed to Luminae. Of course, I had to do dessert, a huge slice of apple pie a-la-mode. The show was a comedian, AJ Jamal. He had us laughing out loud. After the show I headed to the Martini Bar to watch the bartenders do their show. I met some of the cast of “Bridges” and got the chance to say hello to Kate, the Cruise Director. She is both beautiful, and smart, and doing a great job. She knew who I was as apparently, Andrew Derbyshire had told her I was going to look for her, and she looked up my picture. I was impressed. Then back to the cabin where I found out we were turning back our clocks one hour. We will actually gain six hours on the trip back to Ft. Lauderdale, so no jetlag. Tomorrow, Day 4, is our first full sea day. I am looking forward to that.

Celebrity ASCENT transatlantic cruise 2024 – Blog #3

Day 4, our first sea day, dawned with slightly rolling seas, and some sunshine. Breakfast was delivered to the cabin and then it was time to sit and write. No rush, no place to go. The one commitment was to myself, it was to spend at least an hour a day in the gym. Maybe a little more after last night’s pie a-la-mode.

I headed to the gym at 11 a.m. after submitting a column on Kamala Harris to my editor, Kevin Naff. The gym was busy as everyone was on the ship today. But I got a Lifecycle without a problem and pedaled away for thirty minutes. Then it was some light lifting, and used some of the other machines in the gym. My commitment for the day complete headed to the Retreat lounge for my cappuccino. As always, friends there to chat with. Played on my iPhone for an hour. Then to the buffet for lunch. As you can tell, a really stressful day. About the only stress was reading the New York Times online and seeing some of the political news. Can’t understand Trump voters at all. It is like they are living in an alternate reality. I did receive a nice email from my friend, Erik Wemple, at the Washington Post. He wanted to include me in a column he was writing on how I had very early questioned the Post’s non-endorsement. He knows I have cancelled my subscription to the Post. He later shared the column and not only did he mention me, he linked to my book, I can’t thank him enough for that.

The afternoon was spent walking around the ship and lazing in my cabin until it was time for the LGBTQ happy hour at 5:30 in the EDEN lounge. Always fun to find out how others spent their lazy day. It had been cooler and windy most of the day so very few went to the sundeck. Most spent it exactly like I did. Todd, who lives in Paris, is a U.S. citizen, who once ran for Parliament in the UK, was setting up an election night watch-party. The ship will not set their public TVs to the election results as they know they have people on both sides onboard. I know my column is due to the Blade by early Wednesday morning and hopefully this will not be like 2016 where I submitted a black border. I am staying positive.

After happy hour it was Luminae for dinner and then the show, The Chernov Brothers. They are from the Ukraine and have kind of a circus show. Aerialist work, dancing, and playing the drums really well. It was OK, but not one of the shows I would go back to see a second time. I again chatted with Kate, our cruise director, and then headed back to the cabin to listen to Kamala Harris speak to 75,000 people on the Ellipse with her closing argument. She was fantastic, saying all the right things. I passed on the ABBA sing-along at the club and stayed in for an early night.

Unfortunately, I woke on day 5, to hear President Biden had misspoken in answering a reporter’s question about the Trump Madison Square Garden rally, and instead of being specific and saying the people on the podium were the ‘garbage’, he seemed to be calling all Trump’s voters garbage. Reporters were comparing it to Hillary calling them ‘deplorables.’ President Biden, maybe just let Kamala do the talking, for the next seven days.

It was another lazy day. The one fun highlight was meeting Kyrylo, one of the young acrobats/aerialists, from the show in the Eden lounge, at the gym. We chatted and he agreed to meet for coffee the next day when they didn’t have a show. I looked forward to that. The day passed quickly with gym, and a cappuccino in the Retreat lounge. Then I headed to the theater to hear Captain Tazos speak. He is funny, he could have a show of his own. He entertained us for

over an hour talking about how he and his brother became the first brother act as captains, and how they monitored the ship being built. I said hello to him after the talk, and he is charming. Then off to a light lunch at Café Baccio, and then another dinner at Luminae. All just the kind of days I go on these transatlantic cruises for. We headed for the Club to see a show, Smoke and Ivories, with the cast from Eden, including my now new friend Kyrylo. Scott had his butler reserve us front row seats and it was a fantastic show, great singing, dancing, including tap dancing. One of the dancers, Kieran, from the UK, was spectacular. Then it was a stop in the casino to just look at others losing money, and then off to bed. Again, another great day on the Celebrity ASCENT.

Celebrity ASCENT transatlantic cruise 2024 Blog #4

Day 6 dawned sunny, and I was looking forward to a day in Ponta Delgada, Azores. Last time I was here it was so foggy one couldn’t see six feet in front of you. This time I got to go up the mountain and look down into the crater, to see the two lakes, one blue and one green. It was a spectacular view and worth the wait to see. Then it was back on the ship to continue my stressful crossing, I kid you. But the Captain did tell us we were in for some rougher seas and he was going to change the route a little and head farther south on our four-day trip to our next stop, Bermuda. His predictions were correct and it was 24 hours of higher seas. While they kept us mostly inside, they didn’t in any way stop the eating and drinking that are the main parts of sea days on a cruise ship. It was going to be an early night for me. Actually, we set our clocks back so got even one more hour sleep.

Day 7, the first of the next four days at sea, dawned sunny but still a little rocky. It was breakfast as usual in the cabin and then an hour at the gym. They closed down the some of the machines because of the rough seas but the Lifecyle’s were open. I went for my first specialty dinner of the cruise with Diane and Simone, at Le Voyage by Daniel Boulud. It was really great. A restaurant I first tried on the BEYOND. Wonderful service, fine food, and spectacular company. We again set our clocks back an hour.

Days 8, 9, and 10, the sea days before we reached Bermuda, were just a time to totally relax, but admittedly I was a little stressed about the election, which would take place while we were in Bermuda. But nevertheless, each day began with breakfast delivered to the cabin, and then an hour at the gym. The captain predicted correctly that his more southern route would result in calmer seas, but it was still slightly chilly outside so no sunbathing for a few days. Reading in the lounge, and cappuccinos in Café al Bacio, and dinners with friends. If it wasn’t at Luminae, it was at one of the specialty restaurants.

Day 9 dawned nice, with calmer seas and I had arranged to meet Kyrylo and Yaroslav, from the show in EDEN, for coffee in the Oceanview Café, which is the buffet. They turned out to be great guys. Kyrylo’s English was great, and Yaroslav’s was good. We spent an hour together talking about each other’s lives. It was fun, and I told them I would write a column about them, which I hope to publish on my return to D.C. Then that evening I had dinner with Terry, Andy, Craig, Diane, and Simone, at what many including myself thought of as the best restaurant on the ship, EDEN. It was a superb meal as always on all the Edge class ships that have this restaurant. The chef came to say hello. Then on day 10, it was another repeat of the past few days, breakfast in the cabin, gym, cappuccino in the Retreat Lounge, and just lazing around. I had dinner with Sid, Jerry, and Craig at the Rooftop Garden Grill. I have known Sid, who lives in Carmel, California, and his former partner Jim, who sadly passed away during the pandemic, for years. It was fun to get to know his current partner, Jerry. The restaurant is on deck 15 outside, and it was a little windy, but still OK. I had what they are known for, which is their deep-dish chocolate cookie, with vanilla ice-cream. Delicious as always. Then for me it was back to the club to see Smoke and Ivories again this time with Craig. It was just as great as the first time, but Kieran was even better, tap-dancing on top of the piano. Kyrylo and Yaroslav were great as always in the show. I had invited the entire cast to our sail-away from Bermuda party the next day, which Scott and Dustin were hosting in the Iconic suite. But turned out the show manager and cruise director told them they couldn’t go. I think that is a crazy policy as when guests get to meet the casts of the shows, it is one of the highlights of a cruise, and encourages them to book again. I think Celebrity is making a big mistake not allowing this. Then after the show I headed back to my cabin. The next day was our stop in Bermuda, and the election.

Celebrity ASCENT Blog #5

Day 11 dawned bright and sunny, and Bermuda was in sight. It was also Election Day, so the stress levels were higher. I headed onshore to an excursion in a glass-bottom boat. It was fun. We went over coral reefs, and an old shipwreck, with a great captain and tour guide who explained in detail what we were seeing. Then it was back to the ship for that 3:30 sail-away party. Dustin and Scott are great hosts and the party was really fun. After the party I went with them, and Andy, Rick, and Terry, to Fine Cut Steakhouse for a nice meal. Then it was off to the watch party that Todd had set up. There were about 15 of us there and you can all imagine the mood quickly turned sour as the results began to come in. By 10 p.m. I was sufficiently depressed to head back to my cabin, turn off my phone, did not watch TV, and went to bed with a book. I would deal with the loss, and all the texts I knew I would get from friends, in the morning.

Day 12 dawned bright and sunny, not quite matching my mood. I awoke, turned on my phone, and the TV, and answered some of the many texts which I had gotten during the night from distraught friends. I then fired up my laptop and wrote a column which was due to my editor. My first thought was to mirror what I had done in 2016 and I sent in a short few sentences and asked that they be published with a black border around them. The editor asked that I do more, and actually write a column, which I did and submitted. It is titled “Racism and misogyny are alive and well in the United States.” The recriminations and blame game began immediately. But thankfully most did not fall on Kamala Harris who I thought did a brilliant job as the candidate, with only 100 days to run her campaign. She is an amazing woman who I fell I love with. That a-hole Sen. Bernie Sanders (I-Vermont) immediately attacked the Democratic Party. He really is useless. So, after submitting the column I headed to the gym to work off some of the frustration, and then began my day which turned out to be the best sea day yet. Smooth seas and warm sunshine. So, it was off to the Retreat sundeck where we had lunch, great burgers, with Terry, Andy, and Rick. Then we were joined by Jason, Scott, Emile, and Mike, all sitting on the sofas in the shade. Then it was just lazing around the rest of the day on lounges with crew coming by asking if we wanted drinks or snacks. A great afternoon. Then I would join Diane and Simone for another wonderful dinner at Le Voyage. We did talk about the election, and what it meant, and I told them I had watched Harris’ concession speech which she gave at Howard University. It again confirmed for me how great she is. After dinner I headed back to the EDEN lounge for a reprise of the show, I first saw there on day 2 “Shimmerbox.” The cast is the same ones who do Smoke and Ivories and I could watch them every night. Then it was back to the cabin where I was reminded that tomorrow was the last day of the cruise as luggage tags, and instructions for departure, were on the bed. It would be one more day of cruising until then. Day 13 dawned sunny and calm. I continued my usual days with breakfast delivered to the cabin and writing these blogs, then it was off to the gym and a day on the retreat deck sitting in a lounger, mulling the future under Donald Trump. Scary thoughts for such a beautiful day. But that is life. One must take the good with the bad, and keep fighting the bad to change it. Then a good-bye dinner with the whole gang back in the Rooftop Garden Grill. Thirteen days goes much too fast. We talked about seeing each other again next June when we will head to Southampton, England, to board the Celebrity APEX, for a 12-day cruise of the Norwegian Fjords and the Arctic. Something exciting to look forward to. Seems between Scott and Dustin’s My Lux Cruise bookings and friends from Europe there will be about 100 of us going on that cruise. One of my bucket list cruises.

So, thanks for taking the time to read some of my musings. I hope to do a final blog when I am home. Maybe these blogs will get some of you to join us on a future cruise. They really are fun and relaxing.