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Cooking show in D.C. this weekend among local foodie must-sees

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Cooking sensation Paula Deen will be in Washington this weekend for a show at the Convention Center. (Photo courtesy of Paula Deen)

Rustico’s (4075 Wilson Blvd, Arlington) new location gives chain-clogged Ballston a big boost, offering seasonal, hearth-cooked New American fare designed to complement its major forte, beer – expect 400 craft and imported bottles, 40 drafts and three casks (much of it available in 4 ounce tasting pours); the handsome, earth-toned digs are sexily lit and comfortably configured, with a dining room overlooking a courtyard and fountain, communal tables and a massive bar with street-scene views, not to mention a lovely, candlelit private-dining space.

There will be a new Barracks Row eatery called DC-3, named after the passenger plane that popularized “Discover America” air travel. The latest project from the Matchbox and Ted’s Bulletin crew, the restaurant will feature a stainless-steel counter resembling an airplane wing, which will dispense regional, charcoal-grilled hot dogs, while a huge wall map pinpoints the origin of menu choices like Maine’s Red Snapper, the Cincinnati Cheese Coney, the New Jersey deep-fried Ripper, the Tucson Sonoran Dog and, of course, the D.C. Half-Smoke. Cotton candy will be spun on the spot and soft-serve ice cream with old-timey toppings will help take customers back to simpler times. Expect it to open in a few weeks (423 Eighth St. S.E.).

Chef Frank Ruta – whose French- and Italian-influenced cooking at New American Palena in Cleveland Park wows diners – is in the middle of an extensive renovation project that will increase the dining area by half. The light-filled taupe dining room – with its original 1920 terrazzo floor newly gleaming – will be devoted to the chef’s value priced bistro menu. Guests can pass the time at the bar by trying to find oysters embedded in its Jerusalem blue marble top. Best of all, according to Ruta, is his new kitchen featuring an imported wood-burning oven, which allowed him to develop new dishes. There’s also a wood-burning grill destined to elevate hamburgers that many already consider the best in town.

Ruta hopes to open the annex by mid-November. Later this year, he will debut a small retail operation for takeaway breakfast and market items. The intimate fine-dining room in the original space will continue to serve prix fixe and tasting menus, while the original bistro space will remain dedicated to the newly expanded menu.

One restaurant named for a fruit leads to another for Persimmon’s chef-owner Damian Salvatore, whose neighborhood-oriented Wild Tomato will soon be serving pizza, salads and moderately priced American entrees to the Potomac food crowd. Big front windows, buttery yellow walls, a sage-colored stone bar and mahogany butcher-block tables, along with food-focused artwork, will create an attractive ambiance for casual dining and informal get-togethers over cocktails, craft beers and wines (7945 MacArthur Blvd.).

If you watch Food Network, chances are you’ve seen a competition show about restaurants on wheels. CapMac, a roving pastaria, will be hitting D.C. streets in the next few weeks, serving signature mac ‘n’ pimento cheese, chicken Parmesan meatballs and ziti, and whole-wheat noodles with beans and seasonal vegetables, along with hearty soups and desserts. It’s the brainchild of chef Brian Arnoff, who brings talents honed at Bourbon Steak and Boston’s Sportello to the burgeoning local food-truck scene. Arnoff says he was inspired by the macaroni stands that once lined the streets of New York’s Little Italy to make authentic and affordable fresh food.

The general public can take a weekend to splurge and let out its collective belts at the 2010 Metropolitan Cooking & Entertaining Show, happening Saturday and Sunday at the Walter E. Washington Convention Center. More than 300 specialty food, beer and wine sellers, caterers and party planners will be exhibiting and many will offer samples for grazing. Local talents will join celebrity chefs Bobby Flay, Paula Deen and Rachael Ray for food demos. There will be a separate beer, wine and spirits tasting pavilion, a sit-down wine dinner with “Top Chef” finalist Carla Hall, workshops and an area for the kids. General admission (which lets you cruise the exhibits and some demonstrations) is $25 per person ($13 per child 4–12) with additional charges for other features (801 Mount Vernon Pl. N.W.; Saturday from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.).

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PHOTOS: National Champagne Brunch

Gov. Beshear honored at annual LGBTQ+ Victory Fund event

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Gov. Andy Beshear (D-Ky.) speaks at the LGBTQ+ Victory Fund National Champagne Brunch on Sunday, April 19. (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)

The LGBTQ+ Victory Fund National Champagne Brunch was held at Salamander Washington DC on Sunday, April 19. Gov. Andy Beshear (D-Ky.) was presented with the Allyship Award.

(Washington Blade photos by Michael Key)

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PHOTOS: Night of Champions

Team DC holds annual awards gala

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Team DC President Miguel Ayala speaks at the Night of Champions Awards Gala at the Georgetown Marriott on Saturday, April 18. (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)

The umbrella LGBTQ sports organization Team D.C. held its annual Night of Champions Gala at the Georgetown Marriott on Saturday, April 18. Team D.C. presented scholarships to local student athletes and presented awards to Adam Peck, Manuel Montelongo (a.k.a. Mari Con Carne), Dr. Sara Varghai, Dan Martin and the Centaur Motorcycle Club. Sean Bartel was posthumously honored with the Most Valuable Person Award.

(Washington Blade photos by Michael Key)

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Television

‘Big Mistakes’ an uneven – but worthy – comedic showcase

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Taylor Ortega and Dan Levy in ‘Big Mistakes.’ (Photo courtesy of Netflix)

In the years since “Schitt’s Creek” wrapped up its six season Emmy-winning run, nostalgia for it has grown deep – especially since the still painfully recent loss of its iconic leading lady, Catherine O’Hara, whose sudden passing prompted a social media wave of clips and tributes featuring her fan-favorite performance as the deliciously daft Moira Rose. Revisiting so many favorite scenes and funny moments from the show naturally reminded us of just how much we loved it, even needed it during the time it was on the air; it also reminded us of how much we miss it, and how much it feels now like something we need more than ever.

That, perhaps more than anything else, is why the arrival of “Big Mistakes” – the new Netflix series starring, co-created and co-written by Dan Levy – felt so welcome. We knew it wouldn’t be the Roses, but it seemed cut from the same cloth, and it had David Rose (or at least someone who seemed a lot like him) in the middle of a comically dysfunctional family dynamic, complete with a mother who gets involved in town politics and a catty sibling rivalry with his sister, and still nebbish-ly uncomfortable in his own gay shoes. Only this time, instead of running a charmingly pretentious boutique, he’s the pastor of the local church, and instead of a collection of kooky small town neighbors to contend with, there are gangsters.

As it turns out, it really does feel cut from the same cloth, but the design is distinctly different. Set in a fictional New Jersey suburb, it centers on Nicky (Levy) and his sister Morgan (Taylor Ortega) – he openly gay with an adoring boyfriend (Jacob Gutierrez), yet still obsessive about keeping it all invisible to his congregation, and she drudging aimlessly through life as an underpaid schoolteacher after failing to achieve her New York dreams of show biz success – who inadvertently become enmeshed in a shady underworld when a gesture for their dead grandmother’s funeral goes horribly awry.

They’re surrounded by a crew of equally compromised characters. There’s their mother Linda (Laurie Metcalf), whose campaign to become the town’s mayor only intensifies her tendency to micromanage her children’s lives; Yusuf (Boran Kuzum), the Turkish-American mini-mart operator who pulls them into the criminal conspiracy yet is himself a victim of it; Max (Jack Innanen), Morgan’s live-in boyfriend, who pushes her for a deeper commitment and is willing to go to couples’ therapy to prove it; Annette, his mother (Elizabeth Perkins), who lends her society standing toward helping Linda’s campaign against a misogynistic opponent (Darren Goldstein); and Ivan (Mark Ivanir), the seemingly ruthless crime boss who enslaves the siblings into his network but may really be just another slave himself. It’s a well-fleshed out assortment of characters that helps our own loyalties shift and adapt, generating at least a degree of empathy – if not always sympathy – that keeps everyone from coming off as a merely “black-and-white” caricature of expectations and typecasting.

To be sure, it’s an entertaining binge-watch, full of distinctive characters – all inhabiting familiar, even stereotypical roles in the narrative – who are each given a degree of validation, both in writing and performance, as the show unspools its narrative. At the same time, it makes for a fairly bleak overall view of humanity, in which it’s difficult to place our loyalties with anyone without also embracing a kind of “dog eat dog” morality in which nobody is truly innocent – but nobody is completely to blame for their sins, anyway.

In this way, it’s a show that lets us off the hook in the sense that it places the idea of ethical guilt within a framework of relative evils, as it permits us to forgive our own trespasses by accepting its “lovably” amoral characters, each of whom has their own reasons and justifications for what they do. We relate, but we can’t quite shake the notion that, if all these people hadn’t been so caught up in their own personal dramas, none of them would have ended up in the compromised morality that they’re in.

However, it’s not some bleak morality play that Levy and crew undertake; rather, it’s more an egalitarian fantasy in which even “bad” choices feel justified by inevitability. Everybody’s motivations make enough sense to us that it’s hard to judge any of the characters for making the choices – however unwise – that they do. In a system where everyone is forced to compromise themselves in order to achieve whatever dream of self-fulfillment they may have, how can anybody really blame themselves for doing what they have to do to survive?

Of course, all things considered, this is more a relatable comedy than it is a morality play. As a comedy of errors, it all works well enough on its own without imposing an ideology on it, no matter how much we may be tempted to do so. Indeed, what is ultimately more to the point is how well this pseudo-cynical exercise in the normalization of corruption – for that is what it really about, in the end – succeeds in letting us all off the hook for our compromises.

In the end, of course, maybe all that analysis is too deep a dive for a show that feels, in the end, like it’s meant to be mostly for fun. Indeed, despite its focus on being dragged into the shady side of life, the arc of its messaging seems to be less about a moralistic urge toward making the “right” choice than it is a candid recognition that all of us are compromised from the outset, often by choices we only force upon ourselves, and that’s a refreshing enough bit of honesty that we can easily get on board.

It helps that the performances are on point, especially the loony and wide-eyed fanaticism of Metcalf – surely the MVP of any project in which she is involved – and the directly focused moral malleability of Ortega; Levy, of course, is Levy – a now-familiar persona that can exist within any milieu without further justification than its own queer relatability – and, in this case, at least, that’s both the icing on the cake and substance that defines it. That’s enough to make it an essential view for fans, queer or otherwise, of his distinctive “brand,” even if he – or the show itself – doesn’t quite satisfy in the way that “Schitt’s Creek” was able to do.

Seriously, though, how could it?

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