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Dialing up 901

Gay-owned Penn Quarter restaurant delights with creative entrees

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Mushroom Rahgou, a dish at 901. (Blade photo by Michael Key)

901 Restaurant + Bar (901 9th St., N.W.), is a new Penn Quarter eatery owned by gay D.C. businessman David von Storch. From the moment you step in, you get the sense this won’t be an ordinary dinner, and you’re right. As soon as you arrive, you become a part of the show — a well-choreographed one with moments of unexpected magic and drama.

My partner and I walked in on a Saturday evening. We were whisked to our seats even though another person joining us had not yet arrived. At first, I was disappointed because I was hoping to be seated in the sleek-yet-comfortable waiting area that lurked behind the hostess stand. Our table in the dining area, however, was just as aesthetically pleasing. The dining room is creatively divided into separate eating areas with sheer fabric and lights. From it, you can see the open kitchen with the chefs bustling around. The feel is warm, rich and dramatic.

Envy (Blade photo by Michael Key)

We were delighted by the fact that when you open the menu it lights up. A simple “magic trick” that is both thoughtful and cool. 901 Restaurant + Bar staff brews their own beer so one of us selected the 901 Lager, which was a clean non-hoppy lager that was good but not extraordinary. Two of us selected the “Envy.” When the drinks arrived, the brilliant show continued, because while it is not indicated on the menu, the “Envy” is served over dry ice and arrived at the table bubbling and smoking. The dry ice made this simple-yet-tasty drink noteworthy and I recommend having one just for the fun of it.

The menu is designed for sharing so we selected a few items to split; the Kobe Beef Sliders with smoked cheddar and spicy aioli; the Roasted Hoisin Duck Roll with mozzarella wasabi cilantro sauce and Thai chili crème; the Seared Scallop Risotto with wild mushroom asparagus risotto, bacon jam and sweet soy drizzle; and the Yaki Soba Mushroom Ragout. And since we were having a wide range of foods, we decided to accompany the meal with a white wine — the Trimbach Reserve Pinot Gris.

The Kobe Beef Sliders were light and fluffy, perfectly cooked, though somewhat short on flavor. I hoped to taste some of the smoked cheddar or the spice in the aioli. The scallops were quite good and the risotto they were served over was divine. The duck rolls were delightful with the rich flavor of the meat and warmth of the wasabi sauce and chili cream proving a delightful combination.

The winning dish of the evening was the vegetarian Yaki Soba Mushroom Ragout. It was earthy, rich and perfectly balanced — a real treat that paired perfectly with the crispy citrus flavors of the wine. Overall, a very good meal.

The dessert menu was as tempting as the rest. The dessert sampler had coffee and donuts, cheesecake with sour cherries, caramel and chocolate cake and chocolate chipotle brulee. The two strongest desserts on the plate by far were the cheesecake and the brulee. The rich and creamy cheesecake is made with ricotta and goat cheese; the sour cherry compote, candied orange and black cherry balsamic brought this dessert together perfectly with a delicious melding of flavors in every bite. The brulee, with its mixed berries, hazelnuts, Chantilly cream and strawberry coulis was the other star of the plate. The rich warmth of the chocolate chipotle and the refreshing coolness of the berries was an excellent way to end a meal.

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Books

‘Mighty Real’ explores history of LGBTQ music

From Judas Priest to Whitney, something for every taste

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(Book cover image courtesy of Viking)

‘Mighty Real: A History of LGBTQ Music, 1969-2000’
By Barry Walters
c.2026, Viking
$35/496 pages

Step, step, tap, back step.

Shimmy in a circle, left hand waving over your head, shake your tail feathers, repeat to the beat. Once there was a time when you could do any dance in your sleep, but it’s been a while. So read “Mighty Real” by Barry Walters, and see if your toes don’t tap.

Fifty-seven years after Stonewall, and here we are: LGBTQ musicians still face scrutiny for their sexuality because, says Walters, music isn’t created for gay listeners. No problem: LGBTQ artists and writers have often penned lyrics carefully in order to say what can’t be said, “coding” songs for gay audiences that straight (and ignorant) listeners can dance to and enjoy with apparent obliviousness.

Walters offers “just a few” examples.

Lou Reed sang about trans people in the late ‘60s and offered a rallying song for the Gay Liberation Front in 1972, the latter of which felt like a message to a then-11-year-old Walters. Janis Joplin claimed she was straight, but she had several girlfriends. Motown singers often offered sometimes-ambiguous lyrics.

John Lennon’s hand placement on the back cover of Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band made Walters begin to understand that he was different from other boys.

David Bowie is on his list, of course, as is Bette Midler, Elton John, Donna Summer, and Queen. You’ll find Judas Priest here, Green Day, and punk music. The Village People are included in this book, also Grace Jones, Duran Duran, and Cher, Whitney, Melissa, Latifah, and the lyrics from several blockbuster movies.

Two of Prince’s band members were lesbians, and they heavily influenced his albums. Diana Ross’s “I’m Coming Out” cemented her position in LGBTQ culture, and Michael Jackson’s inclusion here takes much careful consideration.

Read about Olivia Newton-John and the B52s. And then there’s Sylvester, for whom Walters has a soft spot in his heart. Sylvester’s death still makes Walters cry.

In his preface, author and music writer Barry Walters points out that music is what you make it and that it’s interpreted differently by each individual. To that end, this book naturally consists of preferential history and personal opinions about singers, bands, albums, and songs.

Agree or disagree. That’s where much of the appeal lies in “Mighty Real.”

Here, Walters wraps his memories around his choices, giving readers room for their own views, memories, and list making. Music-loving readers might also be surprised to note who’s not on Walters’ list – there aren’t many country performers here, for example, and the overall list focuses entirely on music from roughly 1968 to the year 2000, mostly on the kinds of songs you’ll want at the club or party. Again, discuss, and curate your own playlist.

This is a hefty book, but the chapters are browse-able and generally short enough to read in under five minutes. It’s nostalgic, yet also serious in the history it presents. This is the kind of book you want to leave near your album collection, or wherever you get your tunes. But finding “Mighty Real” is your first step.

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Photos

PHOTOS: ‘Soul Divas’

Gay Men’s Chorus of Washington performs at Lincoln Theatre

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A scene from the Gay Men's Chorus of Washington's production of 'Soul Divas' at Lincoln Theatre. (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)

The Gay Men’s Chorus of Washington performed “Soul Divas” at the Lincoln Theatre over the weekend. The show featured songs popularized by Tina Turner, Aretha Franklin, Diana Ross, Gladys Knight, Whitney Houston and more.

(Washington Blade photos by Michael Key)

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Theater

Timothy Nelson on the premiere of his opera ‘Song of Sakuntala’

Story of love, loss, redemption unfolds amid Indian classical music

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IN Series artistic director Timothy Nelson. (Photo by Sergei Shauchenka)

‘The Song of Sakuntala’
IN Series
In Washington and Baltimore
Atlas Performing Arts Center, 1333 H St., N.E.
(Selected dates June 6-14)
Baltimore Theatre Project, 45 W. Preston St., Baltimore
(June 19-21)
$25-35
Inseries.org

As the artistic director of IN Series, Timothy Nelson rarely blows his own horn, but for the world premiere of his own opera “The Song of Sakuntala,” he’ll make an exception. 

During a recent interview squeezed in between afternoon and evenings rehearsals, Nelson took time to talk about his opera (while nearby his “blessing of a husband” prepared a giant dinner for the entire cast and crew). 

As smart and gracious as ever, Nelson explains that he wrote the opera a decade ago at a low point in his life: He was divorcing and wanted to immerse himself into something musical, all-consuming, a project tantamount to writing a thick novel. 

At the time, Nelson’s mentor, the influential American stage and opera director Peter Sellers, pushed him to write again. Nelson recalls, “I hadn’t composed for some time. I wanted to see if I could do it, and I wanted to revisit Indian classical music.”  

He adds, “There was never any anticipation of it being produced. It was a way of processing and dealing with life in a healthy way.” 

Adapted from Kālidāsa’s 5th-century dramatic masterpiece, “The Song of Sakuntala” brings together Western baroque and Indian classical musical traditions into a story of “love, loss, memory, and redemption.” His libretto, a reflection of South Asian storytelling, includes the words of the great Indian poets Tagore, Naidu, and Vidyapati.

The story follows “a prince and a woman of the forest who fall in love and wed in secret. He departs, and she later seeks him out, only to have him deny all recognition of her. She disappears in sorrow; he spends the rest of his life searching. At the end, in the same forest where they first met, they find each other again and are transfigured.”

At 90 minutes, the uninterrupted piece features three singers (Aryssa Leigh Burrs, Teresa Ferrara, Marvin Wayne Allen) accompanied by an instrumental ensemble led by acclaimed sitarist Rajib Karmakar, who specializes in bridging Indian and Western classical traditions, and conducted by Nelson who also joins the music making on drone and harmonium.

Burrs plays the prince. Originally written for a countertenor, Nelson imagined a man singing the role but ultimately cast a woman to play the part.

Because the piece is “fiendishly difficult in almost unnecessary ways,” Nelson explains with a wicked chuckle, he knew that Burrs had the talent and sharp brain required for the role.

The prince is cruel without explanation. Despite that, 40-something Nelson admits to relating to the opera’s prince: “In midlife, you reflect on your mistakes. At least for now that’s how I feel. I might have felt different earlier and it could change later on.”

Nelson lived in India for nine months, backpacking and studying in different places, absorbing different musical styles and playing pieces as varied and complex as any Western music.

And while based in D.C., IN Series performs in both Washington and Baltimore using various borrowed venues. “The Song of Sakuntala” is playing at both the Atlas Performing Center in D.C. (6/6-6/14) and Baltimore’s beloved Baltimore Theatre Project (6/19-6/21) with its terrific acoustics.

In a past conversation, Nelson who lives in Adams Morgan, shared that all audiences bring something specific to the table. Baltimore tends to attract more risk taking while D.C. audiences often lean into the intellectual side of what the company does.

At the helm of IN Series for eight years, Nelson has relished reimagining opera and musical theater, but only recently did he decide to program his latest work. The way in which “The Song of Sakuntala” blends Western and non-Western music is very much a part of the IN Series music brand, so it seemed the perfect selection to close the season.

“I do this humbly with great hesitancy. And I know it feels a little unseemly to cheer on your own work, but I will say, it’s a piece that is successful in sitting in both places (Western and South Asia) and the Indian musicians on board are responding to it.” 

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