Arts & Entertainment
Best of Gay D.C. 2016: DINING
Blade readers voted for their dining favorites
Best Asian Restaurant
Beau Thai
“Delicious, fresh, authentic Thai food in inviting atmosphere.” Also won this category in 2015.
3162 Mount Pleasant St., N.W.
1550 7th St., N.W., Unit A (Shaw)
Runner-up: Rice
Owners, from left, Ralph Brabham, Aschara Vigsittaboot and Drew Porterfield meet at the Shaw location of Beau Thai. (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)
Best Boozy Brunch
Level One
Brunch is served a la carte each Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m.-4 p.m.
1639 R St., N.W.
Runner-up: Freddie’s Beach Bar
Level One (Blade photo by Pete Exis)
Best Local Brewery/Distillery
DC Brau
“Popular craft brewery offering free tours and tastings.” Also won this category in 2015.
3178-B Bladensburg Rd. NE
Runner-up: Right Proper Brewing Company
DC Brau (Photo by Steph Harding Photo)
Best Burger
Duke’s Grocery
Runner-up: Tasty Burger
Let there be no mistake, despite the ever-changing menu at Duke’s Grocery, the Proper Burger reigns supreme. Whether you eat it to stop a hangover before it starts or indulge in it when said hangover has taken hold, it’s an artery-clogging melange of Creekstone Farms Angus beef (now that we’re on a Michelin kick in D.C., it’s the same beef you’ll often find in Michelin-starred restaurants) topped with smoky gouda and both a garlicky aioli and a Thai sweet chili sauce. Add a duck egg and housemade chicken liver paté when those two beef patties are just not enough protein, or pile on extra pickles and rocket if you’ve got your mom’s voice in your ear reminding you that you really need to eat more veggies. And some of us can’t resist adding a side of the truffle mac ’n’ cheese. Just sayin.’ (Kristen Hartke)
Duke’s Grocery
1513 17th St. NW
Duke’s Grocery (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)
Best Caterer
Old Blue BBQ
“Full-service catering company specializing in regional flavors, southern specialties and homemade favorites.” Also won this category in 2015.
4580 Eisenhower Ave., Alexandria, Va.
Runner-up: Mason Dixie Biscuit Co.
Old Blue BBQ (Photo by Ella M. Photography)
Best Cheap Eats
&pizza
1215 Connecticut Ave., N.W.
1250 U St., N.W.
1400 K St., N.W.
Runner-up: Amsterdam Falafel
Best Chef
Tyonne Johns
Runner-up: Alex Levin, Osteria Morini
The last meal that caterer and chef Tyonne Johns served was salmon and jerk chicken, macaroni and cheese and rice pilaf, at the wedding reception for a close friend on Aug. 6. An openly gay chef, her life was senselessly ended that night when an employee of the Chantilly, Va., park where the wedding was held argued with Johns over some folding chairs and stabbed her to death. It’s a tragic footnote on the life of a woman whose brother was murdered 10 years earlier; she is particularly remembered by her friends for her commitment to supporting LGBT events, programs and entrepreneurs, and using her business as a way to provide new opportunities for aspiring chefs. (Kristen Hartke)
Tyonne Johns (Image courtesy Vimeo)
Best Coffee Shop
Compass Coffee
Runner-up: Tryst
OK, so, yeah, Compass makes good coffee. The nitro cold brew, a process by which the grounds are steeped in cold water and then infused with nitrogen, results in a creamy, rich brew that almost mimics the texture of a protein shake, so we can fool ourselves into thinking that it makes a good liquid breakfast after spin class. But we’re kind of into the tea, too, which Compass co-owners Michael Haft and Harrison Suarez decided to custom blend in-house when they couldn’t find a tea that complemented their coffee program. Look for the Raspberry Rose Petal, a floral caffeine-free blend, or the bergamot-tinged Lavender Earl Grey. For chai lovers, don’t miss out on the housemade masala chai, a spicy blend of black tea with ginger, black pepper, cardamom, allspice, anise and licorice. (Kristen Hartke)
Compass Coffee
1335 7th St., N.W.
Best Date Restaurant
Floriana
“Intimate, white-tableclothed bistro offering lasagna and other Italian classics with weekly specials.”
1602 17th St., N.W.
Runner-up: Busboys and Poets
Floriana (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)
Best Dessert
Baked & Wired
“Family-owned coffee shop and bakery in Georgetown with baked goods made in small batches with the finest ingredients.”
1052 Thomas Jefferson St., N.W.
Runner-up: Grassroots Gourmet
Baked and Wired (Photo courtesy Baked and Wired)
Best Ethiopian Restaurant
Dukem Ethiopian Restaurant
Runner-up: Ethiopic
Whenever people ask me for a restaurant recommendation in D.C., I invariably send them to Dukem, and here’s why: it’s authentic, it’s cheap and it tells a real story about our city. With the largest Ethiopian community outside of Ethiopia, eating Ethiopian food in D.C. is akin to eating pizza in New York. It’s also a communal meal, where everyone at the table shares in the dishes, eating literally off the same plate, and omnivores and vegetarians can all walk away perfectly satisfied. For meat eaters, the signature doro wat, a dish of slow-cooked chicken and hard-boiled eggs spiced with berbere, a blend of several spices including chili pepper, ginger, basil, nigella and fenugreek, is tender and saucy, while the vegetarian combination platters are piled with spicy lentils, savory braised cabbage and collards, and shiro, a peppery stew of powdered legumes like chick peas or broad beans. Utensils won’t be on hand, so order extra injera, the spongy sour bread used to scoop up the food. Dukem also won this category in 2015. (Kristen Hartke)
Dukem
1114-1118 U St., N.W.
Dukem (Photo by trotnort; courtesy Flickr)
Best Farmer’s Market
Eastern Market
Runner-up: Dupont Circle FRESHFARM Market
Oh, Eastern Market. Sometimes it’s exciting to visit other farmer’s markets in search of new freshly baked gluten-free cookies or odd varieties of winter squash, but Eastern Market, which also won this category last year, never disappoints — solid, reliable, always there when you need it. While it’s true that the same vendors have been there for decades, it’s also true that Eastern Market serves a real function to the community, because people actually shop there for their groceries, not just for novelty items. Inside the market, which is open every day except Monday, you’ll find most of the items on your list, from freshly butchered meats to loaves of cinnamon raisin bread to vegan kimchi. If there is a cheese you’re looking for, Bowers Dairy has nearly everything on hand, no special ordering required, and D.C.’s very own condiment, mumbo sauce, is available in both regular and spicy flavors at Market Poultry. If you’ve always wanted to eat at Market Lunch, take a tip from the locals and head over there for breakfast or lunch during the week so you don’t have to wait in line. (Kristen Hartke)
Eastern Market
225 7th St., S.E.
Eastern Market (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)
Best Food Truck
Red Hook Lobster Pound
Brings freshest Maine lobsters to D.C. Also won this category in 2015.
Find out where the truck is on Twitter: @LobstertruckDC
Runner-up: Captain Cookie & the Milk Man
Red Hook Lobster Pound (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)
Best French Restaurant
Le Diplomate
“Bustling brasserie serves classic French fare and drinks.” Also won this category in 2015.
1601 14th St., N.W.
Runner-up: Bistrot Du Coin
Le Diplomate (Photo by Jason Varney; courtesy ThreeLockharts PR)
Best Indian Restaurant
Rasika
Modern Indian food; famous for its crispy spinach. Also won this category in 2015.
633 D St., N.W.
1190 New Hampshire Ave., N.W.
Runner-up: Indigo
Rasika (Photo by David Liu; courtesy Flickr)
Best Italian Restaurant
Red Hen
“Italian-influenced American restaurant located in historic Bloomingdale with wood-fired fare set in an airy, rustic-industrial space with open kitchen and bar.”
1822 1st St., N.W.
Runner-up: Floriana
The Red Hen (Photo courtesy of The Red Hen)
Best Pizza
Matchbox
“Brick-oven pizza and contemporary dining.”
713 H St., N.W.
521 8th St., S.E.
1901 14th St., N.W.
Runner-up: Pizzeria Paradiso
Matchbox (Photo courtesy of Matchbox)
Restaurant You’d Wait in Line For
Rose’s Luxury
“Eclectic New American tapas with menu crafted in cozy, converted townhouse with an upstairs lounge.”
717 8th St., S.E.
Runner-up: Little Serow
Rose’s Luxury (Photo by T. Tseng; courtesy Flickr)
Best Rehoboth Restaurant
Dos Locos
“Spacious Mexican restaurant with vast menu including seafood, stone grills and margaritas.” Also won this category in 2015.
208 Rehoboth Ave.
Rehoboth Beach, Del.
Runner-up: Blue Moon
Dos Locos (Photo courtesy Dos Locos)
Best Sandwich
Carving Room
“Hip joint with a patio serving cured and carved meat sandwiches, craft beers and innovative cocktails.”
300 Massachusetts Ave., N.W.
Runner-up: Taylor Gourmet
Carving Room (Photo courtesy Carving Room)
Best Seafood Restaurant
Hank’s Oyster Bar
Perennial lesbian-owned favorite. Also won this category in 2015.
1624 Q St., N.W.
1026 King St., Alexandria, Va.
633 Pennsylvania Ave., S.E.
Runner-up: Black Salt
Hank’s Oyster Bar (Washington Blade file photo by Michael Key)
Best Steak Restaurant
Claudia’s Steakhouse
“Chic, high-gloss steakhouse supplements its beef offerings with Latin-style dishes and sides.”
1501 K St., N.W.
Runner-up: Annie’s Paramount Steakhouse
Claudia’s Steakhouse (Photo courtesy Claudia’s)
Best Sushi
Sushi Taro
“High-end sushi spot with chef’s choice dinners, bento-box lunch specials, sake and sho-chu.”
1503 17th St., N.W.
Runner-up: The Hamilton
Sushi Taro (Image courtesy Sushi Taro on YouTube)
Best Wine Bar
Barcelona
Shareable tapas and inspired wine and cocktail list. Also won this category in 2015.
1622 14th St., N.W.
3310 Wisconsin Ave., N.W.
Runner-up: Dito’s Bar at Floriana
Barcelona (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)
Best Virginia Winery
Breaux Vineyards
Runner-up: Fox Meadow Winery
With an impressive array of awards, Breaux Vineyards is typically at the top of the list of Virginia wineries worth checking out, and it’s just 45 minutes from D.C. in Loudoun County, making it a great destination for a lazy Sunday afternoon. Of course, you’ll also find it well-represented in stores and restaurants across the city, from Glen’s Garden Market to Jack Rose Dining Saloon. Look for the Cabernet Franc, a peppery palate-pleaser with long notes of blackberry on the finish. (Kristen Hartke)
Breaux Vineyards
36888 Breaux Vineyards Lane, Purcellville, Va.
Breaux Vineyards (Photo courtesy Breaux)
To see winners in other categories in the Washington Blade’s Best of Gay D.C. 2016 Awards, click here.
Photos
PHOTOS: Cheers to Out Sports!
LGBTQ homeless youth services organization honors local leagues
The Wanda Alston Foundation held a “Cheers to Out Sports!” event at the DC LGBTQ+ Community Center on Monday, Nov. 17. The event was held by the LGBTQ homeless youth services organization to honor local LGBTQ sports leagues for their philanthropic support.
(Washington Blade photos by Michael Key)
Theater
Gay, straight men bond over finances, single fatherhood in Mosaic show
‘A Case for the Existence of God’ set in rural Idaho
‘A Case for the Existence of God’
Through Dec. 7
Mosaic Theater Company at Atlas Performing Arts Center
1333 H St,, N.E.
Tickets: $42- $56 (discounts available)
Mosaictheater.org
With each new work, Samuel D. Hunter has become more interested in “big ideas thriving in small containers.” Increasingly, he likes to write plays with very few characters and simple sets.
His 2022 two-person play, “A Case for the Existence of God,” (now running at Mosaic Theater Company) is one of these minimal pieces. “Audiences might come in expecting a theological debate set in the Vatican, but instead it’s two guys sitting in a cubicle discussing terms on a bank loan,” says Hunter (who goes by Sam).
Like many of his plays, this award-winning work unfolds in rural Idaho, where Hunter was raised. Two men, one gay, the other straight (here played by local out actors Jaysen Wright and Lee Osorio, respectively), bond over financial insecurity and the joys and challenges of single fatherhood.
His newest success is similarly reduced. Touted as Hunter’s long-awaited Broadway debut, “Little Bear Ridge Road” features Laurie Metcalf as Sarah and Micah Stock as Ethan, Sarah’s estranged gay nephew who returns to Idaho from Seattle to settle his late father’s estate. At 90 minutes, the play’s cast is small and the setting consists only of a reclining couch in a dark void.
“I was very content to be making theater off-Broadway. It’s where most of my favorite plays live.” However, Hunter, 44, does admit to feeling validated: “Over the years there’s been this notion that my plays are too small or too Idaho for Broadway. I feel that’s misguided, so now with my play at the Booth Theatre, my favorite Broadway house, it kind of proves that.”
With “smaller” plays not necessarily the rage on Broadway, he’s pleased that he made it there without compromising the kind of plays he likes to write.
Hunter first spoke with The Blade in 2011 when his “A Bright Day in Boise” made its area premiere at Woolly Mammoth Theatre. At the time, he was still described as an up-and-coming playwright though he’d already nabbed an Obie for this dark comedy about seeking Rapture in an Idaho Hobby Lobby.
In 2015, his “The Whale,” played at Rep Stage starring out actor Michael Russotto as Charlie, a morbidly obese gay English teacher struggling with depression. Hunter wrote the screenplay for the subsequent 2022 film which garnered an Oscar for actor Brendan Frazier.
The year leading up to the Academy Awards ceremony was filled with travel, press, and festivals. It was a heady time. Because of the success of the film there are a lot of non-English language productions of “The Whale” taking place all over the world.
“I don’t see them all,” says Hunter. “When I was invited to Rio de Janeiro to see the Portuguese language premiere, I went. That wasn’t a hard thing to say yes to.”
And then, in the middle of the film hoopla, says Hunter, director Joe Mantello and Laurie (Metcalf) approached him about writing a play for them to do at Steppenwolf Theatre in Chicago before it moved to Broadway. He’d never met either of them, and they gave me carte blanche.
Early in his career, Hunter didn’t write gay characters, but after meeting his husband in grad school at the University of Iowa that changed, he began to explore that part of his life in his plays, including splashes of himself in his queer characters without making it autobiographical.
He says, “Whether it’s myself or other people, I’ve never wholesale lifted a character or story from real life and plopped it in a play. I need to breathing room to figure out characters on their own terms. It wouldn’t be fair to ask an actor to play me.”
His queer characters made his plays more artistically successful, adds Hunter. “I started putting something of myself on the line. For whatever reason, and it was probably internalized homophobia, I had been holding back.”
Though his work is personal, once he hands it over for production, it quickly becomes collaborative, which is the reason he prefers plays compared to other forms of writing.
“There’s a certain amount of detachment. I become just another member of the team that’s servicing the story. There’s a joy in that.”
Hunter is married to influential dramaturg John Baker. They live in New York City with their little girl, and two dogs. As a dad, Hunter believes despite what’s happening in the world, it’s your job to be hopeful.
“Hope is the harder choice to make. I do it not only for my daughter but because cynicism masquerades as intelligence which I find lazy. Having hope is the better way to live.”
Books
New book highlights long history of LGBTQ oppression
‘Queer Enlightenments’ a reminder that inequality is nothing new
‘Queer Enlightenments: A Hidden History of Lovers, Lawbreakers, and Homemakers’
By Anthony Delaney
c.2025, Atlantic Monthly Press
$30/352 pages
It had to start somewhere.
The discrimination, the persecution, the inequality, it had a launching point. Can you put your finger on that date? Was it DADT, the 1950s scare, the Kinsey report? Certainly not Stonewall, or the Marriage Act, so where did it come from? In “Queer Enlightenments: A Hidden History of Lovers, Lawbreakers, and Homemakers” by Anthony Delaney, the story of queer oppression goes back so much farther.
The first recorded instance of the word “homosexual” arrived loudly in the spring of 1868: Hungarian journalist Károly Mária Kerthbeny wrote a letter to German activist Karl Heinrich Ulrichs referring to “same-sex-attracted men” with that new term. Many people believe that this was the “invention” of homosexuality, but Delaney begs to differ.
“Queer histories run much deeper than this…” he says.
Take, for instance, the delightfully named Mrs. Clap, who ran a “House” in London in which men often met other men for “marriage.” On a February night in 1726, Mrs. Clap’s House was raided and 40 men were taken to jail, where they were put in filthy, dank confines until the courts could get to them. One of the men was ultimately hanged for the crime of sodomy. Mrs. Clap was pilloried, and then disappeared from history.
William Pulteney had a duel with John, Lord Hervey, over insults flung at the latter man. The truth: Hervey was, in fact, openly a “sodomite.” He and his companion, Ste Fox had even set up a home together.
Adopting your lover was common in 18th century London, in order to make him a legal heir. In about 1769, rumors spread that the lovely female spy, the Chevalier d’Éon, was actually Charles d’Éon de Beaumont, a man who had been dressing in feminine attire for much longer than his espionage career. Anne Lister’s masculine demeanor often left her an “outcast.” And as George Wilson brought his bride to North American in 1821, he confessed to loving men, thus becoming North America’s first official “female husband.”
Sometimes, history can be quite dry. So can author Anthony Delaney’s wit. Together, though, they work well inside “Queer Enlightenments.”
Undoubtedly, you well know that inequality and persecution aren’t new things – which Delaney underscores here – and queer ancestors faced them head-on, just as people do today. The twist, in this often-chilling narrative, is that punishments levied on 18th- and 19th-century queer folk was harsher and Delaney doesn’t soften those accounts for readers. Read this book, and you’re platform-side at a hanging, in jail with an ally, at a duel with a complicated basis, embedded in a King’s court, and on a ship with a man whose new wife generously ignored his secret. Most of these tales are set in Great Britain and Europe, but North America features some, and Delaney wraps up thing nicely for today’s relevance.
While there’s some amusing side-eyeing in this book, “Queer Enlightenments” is a bit on the heavy side, so give yourself time with it. Pick it up, though, and you’ll love it til the end.
The Blade may receive commissions from qualifying purchases made via this post.
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