Arts & Entertainment
Best of Gay D.C. 2016: DINING
Blade readers voted for their dining favorites
Best Asian Restaurant
Beau Thai
“Delicious, fresh, authentic Thai food in inviting atmosphere.” Also won this category in 2015.
3162 Mount Pleasant St., N.W.
1550 7th St., N.W., Unit A (Shaw)
Runner-up: Rice
Owners, from left, Ralph Brabham, Aschara Vigsittaboot and Drew Porterfield meet at the Shaw location of Beau Thai. (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)
Best Boozy Brunch
Level One
Brunch is served a la carte each Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m.-4 p.m.
1639 R St., N.W.
Runner-up: Freddie’s Beach Bar
Level One (Blade photo by Pete Exis)
Best Local Brewery/Distillery
DC Brau
“Popular craft brewery offering free tours and tastings.” Also won this category in 2015.
3178-B Bladensburg Rd. NE
Runner-up: Right Proper Brewing Company
DC Brau (Photo by Steph Harding Photo)
Best Burger
Duke’s Grocery
Runner-up: Tasty Burger
Let there be no mistake, despite the ever-changing menu at Duke’s Grocery, the Proper Burger reigns supreme. Whether you eat it to stop a hangover before it starts or indulge in it when said hangover has taken hold, it’s an artery-clogging melange of Creekstone Farms Angus beef (now that we’re on a Michelin kick in D.C., it’s the same beef you’ll often find in Michelin-starred restaurants) topped with smoky gouda and both a garlicky aioli and a Thai sweet chili sauce. Add a duck egg and housemade chicken liver paté when those two beef patties are just not enough protein, or pile on extra pickles and rocket if you’ve got your mom’s voice in your ear reminding you that you really need to eat more veggies. And some of us can’t resist adding a side of the truffle mac ’n’ cheese. Just sayin.’ (Kristen Hartke)
Duke’s Grocery
1513 17th St. NW
Duke’s Grocery (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)
Best Caterer
Old Blue BBQ
“Full-service catering company specializing in regional flavors, southern specialties and homemade favorites.” Also won this category in 2015.
4580 Eisenhower Ave., Alexandria, Va.
Runner-up: Mason Dixie Biscuit Co.
Old Blue BBQ (Photo by Ella M. Photography)
Best Cheap Eats
&pizza
1215 Connecticut Ave., N.W.
1250 U St., N.W.
1400 K St., N.W.
Runner-up: Amsterdam Falafel
Best Chef
Tyonne Johns
Runner-up: Alex Levin, Osteria Morini
The last meal that caterer and chef Tyonne Johns served was salmon and jerk chicken, macaroni and cheese and rice pilaf, at the wedding reception for a close friend on Aug. 6. An openly gay chef, her life was senselessly ended that night when an employee of the Chantilly, Va., park where the wedding was held argued with Johns over some folding chairs and stabbed her to death. It’s a tragic footnote on the life of a woman whose brother was murdered 10 years earlier; she is particularly remembered by her friends for her commitment to supporting LGBT events, programs and entrepreneurs, and using her business as a way to provide new opportunities for aspiring chefs. (Kristen Hartke)
Tyonne Johns (Image courtesy Vimeo)
Best Coffee Shop
Compass Coffee
Runner-up: Tryst
OK, so, yeah, Compass makes good coffee. The nitro cold brew, a process by which the grounds are steeped in cold water and then infused with nitrogen, results in a creamy, rich brew that almost mimics the texture of a protein shake, so we can fool ourselves into thinking that it makes a good liquid breakfast after spin class. But we’re kind of into the tea, too, which Compass co-owners Michael Haft and Harrison Suarez decided to custom blend in-house when they couldn’t find a tea that complemented their coffee program. Look for the Raspberry Rose Petal, a floral caffeine-free blend, or the bergamot-tinged Lavender Earl Grey. For chai lovers, don’t miss out on the housemade masala chai, a spicy blend of black tea with ginger, black pepper, cardamom, allspice, anise and licorice. (Kristen Hartke)
Compass Coffee
1335 7th St., N.W.
Best Date Restaurant
Floriana
“Intimate, white-tableclothed bistro offering lasagna and other Italian classics with weekly specials.”
1602 17th St., N.W.
Runner-up: Busboys and Poets
Floriana (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)
Best Dessert
Baked & Wired
“Family-owned coffee shop and bakery in Georgetown with baked goods made in small batches with the finest ingredients.”
1052 Thomas Jefferson St., N.W.
Runner-up: Grassroots Gourmet
Baked and Wired (Photo courtesy Baked and Wired)
Best Ethiopian Restaurant
Dukem Ethiopian Restaurant
Runner-up: Ethiopic
Whenever people ask me for a restaurant recommendation in D.C., I invariably send them to Dukem, and here’s why: it’s authentic, it’s cheap and it tells a real story about our city. With the largest Ethiopian community outside of Ethiopia, eating Ethiopian food in D.C. is akin to eating pizza in New York. It’s also a communal meal, where everyone at the table shares in the dishes, eating literally off the same plate, and omnivores and vegetarians can all walk away perfectly satisfied. For meat eaters, the signature doro wat, a dish of slow-cooked chicken and hard-boiled eggs spiced with berbere, a blend of several spices including chili pepper, ginger, basil, nigella and fenugreek, is tender and saucy, while the vegetarian combination platters are piled with spicy lentils, savory braised cabbage and collards, and shiro, a peppery stew of powdered legumes like chick peas or broad beans. Utensils won’t be on hand, so order extra injera, the spongy sour bread used to scoop up the food. Dukem also won this category in 2015. (Kristen Hartke)
Dukem
1114-1118 U St., N.W.
Dukem (Photo by trotnort; courtesy Flickr)
Best Farmer’s Market
Eastern Market
Runner-up: Dupont Circle FRESHFARM Market
Oh, Eastern Market. Sometimes it’s exciting to visit other farmer’s markets in search of new freshly baked gluten-free cookies or odd varieties of winter squash, but Eastern Market, which also won this category last year, never disappoints — solid, reliable, always there when you need it. While it’s true that the same vendors have been there for decades, it’s also true that Eastern Market serves a real function to the community, because people actually shop there for their groceries, not just for novelty items. Inside the market, which is open every day except Monday, you’ll find most of the items on your list, from freshly butchered meats to loaves of cinnamon raisin bread to vegan kimchi. If there is a cheese you’re looking for, Bowers Dairy has nearly everything on hand, no special ordering required, and D.C.’s very own condiment, mumbo sauce, is available in both regular and spicy flavors at Market Poultry. If you’ve always wanted to eat at Market Lunch, take a tip from the locals and head over there for breakfast or lunch during the week so you don’t have to wait in line. (Kristen Hartke)
Eastern Market
225 7th St., S.E.
Eastern Market (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)
Best Food Truck
Red Hook Lobster Pound
Brings freshest Maine lobsters to D.C. Also won this category in 2015.
Find out where the truck is on Twitter: @LobstertruckDC
Runner-up: Captain Cookie & the Milk Man
Red Hook Lobster Pound (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)
Best French Restaurant
Le Diplomate
“Bustling brasserie serves classic French fare and drinks.” Also won this category in 2015.
1601 14th St., N.W.
Runner-up: Bistrot Du Coin
Le Diplomate (Photo by Jason Varney; courtesy ThreeLockharts PR)
Best Indian Restaurant
Rasika
Modern Indian food; famous for its crispy spinach. Also won this category in 2015.
633 D St., N.W.
1190 New Hampshire Ave., N.W.
Runner-up: Indigo
Rasika (Photo by David Liu; courtesy Flickr)
Best Italian Restaurant
Red Hen
“Italian-influenced American restaurant located in historic Bloomingdale with wood-fired fare set in an airy, rustic-industrial space with open kitchen and bar.”
1822 1st St., N.W.
Runner-up: Floriana
The Red Hen (Photo courtesy of The Red Hen)
Best Pizza
Matchbox
“Brick-oven pizza and contemporary dining.”
713 H St., N.W.
521 8th St., S.E.
1901 14th St., N.W.
Runner-up: Pizzeria Paradiso
Matchbox (Photo courtesy of Matchbox)
Restaurant You’d Wait in Line For
Rose’s Luxury
“Eclectic New American tapas with menu crafted in cozy, converted townhouse with an upstairs lounge.”
717 8th St., S.E.
Runner-up: Little Serow
Rose’s Luxury (Photo by T. Tseng; courtesy Flickr)
Best Rehoboth Restaurant
Dos Locos
“Spacious Mexican restaurant with vast menu including seafood, stone grills and margaritas.” Also won this category in 2015.
208 Rehoboth Ave.
Rehoboth Beach, Del.
Runner-up: Blue Moon
Dos Locos (Photo courtesy Dos Locos)
Best Sandwich
Carving Room
“Hip joint with a patio serving cured and carved meat sandwiches, craft beers and innovative cocktails.”
300 Massachusetts Ave., N.W.
Runner-up: Taylor Gourmet
Carving Room (Photo courtesy Carving Room)
Best Seafood Restaurant
Hank’s Oyster Bar
Perennial lesbian-owned favorite. Also won this category in 2015.
1624 Q St., N.W.
1026 King St., Alexandria, Va.
633 Pennsylvania Ave., S.E.
Runner-up: Black Salt
Hank’s Oyster Bar (Washington Blade file photo by Michael Key)
Best Steak Restaurant
Claudia’s Steakhouse
“Chic, high-gloss steakhouse supplements its beef offerings with Latin-style dishes and sides.”
1501 K St., N.W.
Runner-up: Annie’s Paramount Steakhouse
Claudia’s Steakhouse (Photo courtesy Claudia’s)
Best Sushi
Sushi Taro
“High-end sushi spot with chef’s choice dinners, bento-box lunch specials, sake and sho-chu.”
1503 17th St., N.W.
Runner-up: The Hamilton
Sushi Taro (Image courtesy Sushi Taro on YouTube)
Best Wine Bar
Barcelona
Shareable tapas and inspired wine and cocktail list. Also won this category in 2015.
1622 14th St., N.W.
3310 Wisconsin Ave., N.W.
Runner-up: Dito’s Bar at Floriana
Barcelona (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)
Best Virginia Winery
Breaux Vineyards
Runner-up: Fox Meadow Winery
With an impressive array of awards, Breaux Vineyards is typically at the top of the list of Virginia wineries worth checking out, and it’s just 45 minutes from D.C. in Loudoun County, making it a great destination for a lazy Sunday afternoon. Of course, you’ll also find it well-represented in stores and restaurants across the city, from Glen’s Garden Market to Jack Rose Dining Saloon. Look for the Cabernet Franc, a peppery palate-pleaser with long notes of blackberry on the finish. (Kristen Hartke)
Breaux Vineyards
36888 Breaux Vineyards Lane, Purcellville, Va.
Breaux Vineyards (Photo courtesy Breaux)
To see winners in other categories in the Washington Blade’s Best of Gay D.C. 2016 Awards, click here.
The LGBTQ+ Victory Fund National Champagne Brunch was held at Salamander Washington DC on Sunday, April 19. Gov. Andy Beshear (D-Ky.) was presented with the Allyship Award.
(Washington Blade photos by Michael Key)
The umbrella LGBTQ sports organization Team D.C. held its annual Night of Champions Gala at the Georgetown Marriott on Saturday, April 18. Team D.C. presented scholarships to local student athletes and presented awards to Adam Peck, Manuel Montelongo (a.k.a. Mari Con Carne), Dr. Sara Varghai, Dan Martin and the Centaur Motorcycle Club. Sean Bartel was posthumously honored with the Most Valuable Person Award.
(Washington Blade photos by Michael Key)
Television
‘Big Mistakes’ an uneven – but worthy – comedic showcase
In the years since “Schitt’s Creek” wrapped up its six season Emmy-winning run, nostalgia for it has grown deep – especially since the still painfully recent loss of its iconic leading lady, Catherine O’Hara, whose sudden passing prompted a social media wave of clips and tributes featuring her fan-favorite performance as the deliciously daft Moira Rose. Revisiting so many favorite scenes and funny moments from the show naturally reminded us of just how much we loved it, even needed it during the time it was on the air; it also reminded us of how much we miss it, and how much it feels now like something we need more than ever.
That, perhaps more than anything else, is why the arrival of “Big Mistakes” – the new Netflix series starring, co-created and co-written by Dan Levy – felt so welcome. We knew it wouldn’t be the Roses, but it seemed cut from the same cloth, and it had David Rose (or at least someone who seemed a lot like him) in the middle of a comically dysfunctional family dynamic, complete with a mother who gets involved in town politics and a catty sibling rivalry with his sister, and still nebbish-ly uncomfortable in his own gay shoes. Only this time, instead of running a charmingly pretentious boutique, he’s the pastor of the local church, and instead of a collection of kooky small town neighbors to contend with, there are gangsters.
As it turns out, it really does feel cut from the same cloth, but the design is distinctly different. Set in a fictional New Jersey suburb, it centers on Nicky (Levy) and his sister Morgan (Taylor Ortega) – he openly gay with an adoring boyfriend (Jacob Gutierrez), yet still obsessive about keeping it all invisible to his congregation, and she drudging aimlessly through life as an underpaid schoolteacher after failing to achieve her New York dreams of show biz success – who inadvertently become enmeshed in a shady underworld when a gesture for their dead grandmother’s funeral goes horribly awry.
They’re surrounded by a crew of equally compromised characters. There’s their mother Linda (Laurie Metcalf), whose campaign to become the town’s mayor only intensifies her tendency to micromanage her children’s lives; Yusuf (Boran Kuzum), the Turkish-American mini-mart operator who pulls them into the criminal conspiracy yet is himself a victim of it; Max (Jack Innanen), Morgan’s live-in boyfriend, who pushes her for a deeper commitment and is willing to go to couples’ therapy to prove it; Annette, his mother (Elizabeth Perkins), who lends her society standing toward helping Linda’s campaign against a misogynistic opponent (Darren Goldstein); and Ivan (Mark Ivanir), the seemingly ruthless crime boss who enslaves the siblings into his network but may really be just another slave himself. It’s a well-fleshed out assortment of characters that helps our own loyalties shift and adapt, generating at least a degree of empathy – if not always sympathy – that keeps everyone from coming off as a merely “black-and-white” caricature of expectations and typecasting.
To be sure, it’s an entertaining binge-watch, full of distinctive characters – all inhabiting familiar, even stereotypical roles in the narrative – who are each given a degree of validation, both in writing and performance, as the show unspools its narrative. At the same time, it makes for a fairly bleak overall view of humanity, in which it’s difficult to place our loyalties with anyone without also embracing a kind of “dog eat dog” morality in which nobody is truly innocent – but nobody is completely to blame for their sins, anyway.
In this way, it’s a show that lets us off the hook in the sense that it places the idea of ethical guilt within a framework of relative evils, as it permits us to forgive our own trespasses by accepting its “lovably” amoral characters, each of whom has their own reasons and justifications for what they do. We relate, but we can’t quite shake the notion that, if all these people hadn’t been so caught up in their own personal dramas, none of them would have ended up in the compromised morality that they’re in.
However, it’s not some bleak morality play that Levy and crew undertake; rather, it’s more an egalitarian fantasy in which even “bad” choices feel justified by inevitability. Everybody’s motivations make enough sense to us that it’s hard to judge any of the characters for making the choices – however unwise – that they do. In a system where everyone is forced to compromise themselves in order to achieve whatever dream of self-fulfillment they may have, how can anybody really blame themselves for doing what they have to do to survive?
Of course, all things considered, this is more a relatable comedy than it is a morality play. As a comedy of errors, it all works well enough on its own without imposing an ideology on it, no matter how much we may be tempted to do so. Indeed, what is ultimately more to the point is how well this pseudo-cynical exercise in the normalization of corruption – for that is what it really about, in the end – succeeds in letting us all off the hook for our compromises.
In the end, of course, maybe all that analysis is too deep a dive for a show that feels, in the end, like it’s meant to be mostly for fun. Indeed, despite its focus on being dragged into the shady side of life, the arc of its messaging seems to be less about a moralistic urge toward making the “right” choice than it is a candid recognition that all of us are compromised from the outset, often by choices we only force upon ourselves, and that’s a refreshing enough bit of honesty that we can easily get on board.
It helps that the performances are on point, especially the loony and wide-eyed fanaticism of Metcalf – surely the MVP of any project in which she is involved – and the directly focused moral malleability of Ortega; Levy, of course, is Levy – a now-familiar persona that can exist within any milieu without further justification than its own queer relatability – and, in this case, at least, that’s both the icing on the cake and substance that defines it. That’s enough to make it an essential view for fans, queer or otherwise, of his distinctive “brand,” even if he – or the show itself – doesn’t quite satisfy in the way that “Schitt’s Creek” was able to do.
Seriously, though, how could it?
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