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Best of Gay D.C. 2016: DINING

Blade readers voted for their dining favorites

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dining, gay news, Washington Blade

Dining, gay news, Washington BladeBest Asian Restaurant

Beau Thai

“Delicious, fresh, authentic Thai food in inviting atmosphere.” Also won this category in 2015.

3162 Mount Pleasant St., N.W.

1550 7th St., N.W., Unit A (Shaw)

beauthaidc.com

Runner-up: Rice

Best of Gay D.C.

Owners, from left, Ralph Brabham, Aschara Vigsittaboot and Drew Porterfield meet at the Shaw location of Beau Thai. (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)

Best Boozy Brunch

Level One

Brunch is served a la carte each Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m.-4 p.m.

1639 R St., N.W.

levelonedc.com

Runner-up: Freddie’s Beach Bar

<strong>Level One</strong> (Washington Blade photo by Pete Exis)

Level One (Blade photo by Pete Exis)

Best Local Brewery/Distillery

DC Brau

“Popular craft brewery offering free tours and tastings.” Also won this category in 2015.

3178-B Bladensburg Rd. NE

dcbrau.com

Runner-up: Right Proper Brewing Company

DC Brau (Photo by Steph Harding Photo)

DC Brau (Photo by Steph Harding Photo)

Best Burger

Duke’s Grocery

Runner-up: Tasty Burger

Let there be no mistake, despite the ever-changing menu at Duke’s Grocery, the Proper Burger reigns supreme. Whether you eat it to stop a hangover before it starts or indulge in it when said hangover has taken hold, it’s an artery-clogging melange of Creekstone Farms Angus beef (now that we’re on a Michelin kick in D.C., it’s the same beef you’ll often find in Michelin-starred restaurants) topped with smoky gouda and both a garlicky aioli and a Thai sweet chili sauce. Add a duck egg and housemade chicken liver paté when those two beef patties are just not enough protein, or pile on extra pickles and rocket if you’ve got your mom’s voice in your ear reminding you that you really need to eat more veggies. And some of us can’t resist adding a side of the truffle mac ’n’ cheese. Just sayin.’ (Kristen Hartke)

Duke’s Grocery

1513 17th St. NW

dukesgrocery.com

Duke's Grocery (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)

Duke’s Grocery (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)

Best Caterer

Old Blue BBQ

“Full-service catering company specializing in regional flavors, southern specialties and homemade favorites.” Also won this category in 2015.

4580 Eisenhower Ave., Alexandria, Va.

oldbluebbq.com

Runner-up: Mason Dixie Biscuit Co.

Best of Gay D.C.

Old Blue BBQ (Photo by Ella M. Photography)

Best Cheap Eats

&pizza

1215 Connecticut Ave., N.W.

1250 U St., N.W.

1400 K St., N.W.

andpizza.com

Runner-up: Amsterdam Falafel

ampersand_pizza_isnert_c_washington_blade_by_michael_keyBest Chef

Tyonne Johns

Runner-up: Alex Levin, Osteria Morini

The last meal that caterer and chef Tyonne Johns served was salmon and jerk chicken, macaroni and cheese and rice pilaf, at the wedding reception for a close friend on Aug. 6. An openly gay chef, her life was senselessly ended that night when an employee of the Chantilly, Va., park where the wedding was held argued with Johns over some folding chairs and stabbed her to death. It’s a tragic footnote on the life of a woman whose brother was murdered 10 years earlier; she is particularly remembered by her friends for her commitment to supporting LGBT events, programs and entrepreneurs, and using her business as a way to provide new opportunities for aspiring chefs. (Kristen Hartke)

Tyonne Johns (Image courtesy Vimeo)

Tyonne Johns (Image courtesy Vimeo)

Best Coffee Shop

Compass Coffee

Runner-up: Tryst

OK, so, yeah, Compass makes good coffee. The nitro cold brew, a process by which the grounds are steeped in cold water and then infused with nitrogen, results in a creamy, rich brew that almost mimics the texture of a protein shake, so we can fool ourselves into thinking that it makes a good liquid breakfast after spin class. But we’re kind of into the tea, too, which Compass co-owners Michael Haft and Harrison Suarez decided to custom blend in-house when they couldn’t find a tea that complemented their coffee program. Look for the Raspberry Rose Petal, a floral caffeine-free blend, or the bergamot-tinged Lavender Earl Grey. For chai lovers, don’t miss out on the housemade masala chai, a spicy blend of black tea with ginger, black pepper, cardamom, allspice, anise and licorice. (Kristen Hartke)

Compass Coffee

1335 7th St., N.W.

compasscoffee.com

compass_coffee_insert_by_bigstockBest Date Restaurant

Floriana

“Intimate, white-tableclothed bistro offering lasagna and other Italian classics with weekly specials.”

1602 17th St., N.W.

florianarestaurant.com

Runner-up: Busboys and Poets

Floriana (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)

Floriana (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)

Best Dessert

Baked & Wired

“Family-owned coffee shop and bakery in Georgetown with baked goods made in small batches with the finest ingredients.”

1052 Thomas Jefferson St., N.W.

bakedandwired.com

Runner-up: Grassroots Gourmet

Baked and Wired (Photo courtesy Baked and Wired)

Baked and Wired (Photo courtesy Baked and Wired)

Best Ethiopian Restaurant

Dukem Ethiopian Restaurant

Runner-up: Ethiopic

Whenever people ask me for a restaurant recommendation in D.C., I invariably send them to Dukem, and here’s why: it’s authentic, it’s cheap and it tells a real story about our city. With the largest Ethiopian community outside of Ethiopia, eating Ethiopian food in D.C. is akin to eating pizza in New York. It’s also a communal meal, where everyone at the table shares in the dishes, eating literally off the same plate, and omnivores and vegetarians can all walk away perfectly satisfied. For meat eaters, the signature doro wat, a dish of slow-cooked chicken and hard-boiled eggs spiced with berbere, a blend of several spices including chili pepper, ginger, basil, nigella and fenugreek, is tender and saucy, while the vegetarian combination platters are piled with spicy lentils, savory braised cabbage and collards, and shiro, a peppery stew of powdered legumes like chick peas or broad beans. Utensils won’t be on hand, so order extra injera, the spongy sour bread used to scoop up the food. Dukem also won this category in 2015. (Kristen Hartke)

Dukem

1114-1118 U St., N.W.

dukemrestaurant.com

Best of Gay D.C.

Dukem (Photo by trotnort; courtesy Flickr)

Best Farmer’s Market

Eastern Market

Runner-up: Dupont Circle FRESHFARM Market

Oh, Eastern Market. Sometimes it’s exciting to visit other farmer’s markets in search of new freshly baked gluten-free cookies or odd varieties of winter squash, but Eastern Market, which also won this category last year, never disappoints — solid, reliable, always there when you need it. While it’s true that the same vendors have been there for decades, it’s also true that Eastern Market serves a real function to the community, because people actually shop there for their groceries, not just for novelty items. Inside the market, which is open every day except Monday, you’ll find most of the items on your list, from freshly butchered meats to loaves of cinnamon raisin bread to vegan kimchi. If there is a cheese you’re looking for, Bowers Dairy has nearly everything on hand, no special ordering required, and D.C.’s very own condiment, mumbo sauce, is available in both regular and spicy flavors at Market Poultry. If you’ve always wanted to eat at Market Lunch, take a tip from the locals and head over there for breakfast or lunch during the week so you don’t have to wait in line. (Kristen Hartke)

Eastern Market

225 7th St., S.E.

easternmarket-dc.org

Eastern Market (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)

Eastern Market (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)

Best Food Truck

Red Hook Lobster Pound

Brings freshest Maine lobsters to D.C. Also won this category in 2015.

Find out where the truck is on Twitter: @LobstertruckDC

redhooklobsterdc.com

Runner-up: Captain Cookie & the Milk Man

Red Hook Lobster Truck (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)

Red Hook Lobster Pound (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)

Best French Restaurant

Le Diplomate

“Bustling brasserie serves classic French fare and drinks.” Also won this category in 2015.

1601 14th St., N.W.

lediplomatedc.com

Runner-up: Bistrot Du Coin

Le Diplomate (Photo by Jason Varney; courtesy ThreeLockharts PR)

Le Diplomate (Photo by Jason Varney; courtesy ThreeLockharts PR)

Best Indian Restaurant

Rasika

Modern Indian food; famous for its crispy spinach. Also won this category in 2015.

633 D St., N.W.

1190 New Hampshire Ave., N.W.

rasikarestaurant.com

Runner-up: Indigo

Best of Gay D.C.

Rasika (Photo by David Liu; courtesy Flickr)

Best Italian Restaurant

Red Hen

“Italian-influenced American restaurant located in historic Bloomingdale with wood-fired fare set in an airy, rustic-industrial space with open kitchen and bar.”

1822 1st St., N.W.

theredhendc.com

Runner-up: Floriana

The Red Hen (Photo courtesy of The Red Hen)

The Red Hen (Photo courtesy of The Red Hen)

Best Pizza

Matchbox

“Brick-oven pizza and contemporary dining.”

713 H St., N.W.

521 8th St., S.E.

1901 14th St., N.W.

matchboxrestaurants.com

Runner-up: Pizzeria Paradiso

Matchbox (Photo courtesy of Matchbox)

Matchbox (Photo courtesy of Matchbox)

Restaurant You’d Wait in Line For

Rose’s Luxury

“Eclectic New American tapas with menu crafted in cozy, converted townhouse with an upstairs lounge.”

717 8th St., S.E.

rosesluxury.com

Runner-up: Little Serow

Best of Gay D.C.

Rose’s Luxury (Photo by T. Tseng; courtesy Flickr)

Best Rehoboth Restaurant

Dos Locos

“Spacious Mexican restaurant with vast menu including seafood, stone grills and margaritas.” Also won this category in 2015.

208 Rehoboth Ave.

Rehoboth Beach, Del.

doslocos.com

Runner-up: Blue Moon

Dos Locos, Joe Zuber, Darryl Ciarlante, Rehoboth Beach, Delaware, restaurant, gay news, Washington Blade

Dos Locos (Photo courtesy Dos Locos)

Best Sandwich

Carving Room

“Hip joint with a patio serving cured and carved meat sandwiches, craft beers and innovative cocktails.”

300 Massachusetts Ave., N.W.

carvingroom.com

Runner-up: Taylor Gourmet

Carving Room (Photo courtesy Carving Room)

Carving Room (Photo courtesy Carving Room)

Best Seafood Restaurant

Hank’s Oyster Bar

Perennial lesbian-owned favorite. Also won this category in 2015.

1624 Q St., N.W.

1026 King St., Alexandria, Va.

633 Pennsylvania Ave., S.E.

hanksoysterbar.com

Runner-up: Black Salt

Best of Gay D.C.

Hank’s Oyster Bar (Washington Blade file photo by Michael Key)

Best Steak Restaurant

Claudia’s Steakhouse

“Chic, high-gloss steakhouse supplements its beef offerings with Latin-style dishes and sides.”

1501 K St., N.W.

claudiassteakhouse.com

Runner-up: Annie’s Paramount Steakhouse

Claudia's Steakhouse (Photo courtesy Claudia's)

Claudia’s Steakhouse (Photo courtesy Claudia’s)

Best Sushi

Sushi Taro

“High-end sushi spot with chef’s choice dinners, bento-box lunch specials, sake and sho-chu.”

1503 17th St., N.W.

sushitaro.com

Runner-up: The Hamilton

Sushi Taro (Image courtesy Sushi Taro on YouTube)

Sushi Taro (Image courtesy Sushi Taro on YouTube)

Best Wine Bar

Barcelona

Shareable tapas and inspired wine and cocktail list. Also won this category in 2015.

1622 14th St., N.W.

3310 Wisconsin Ave., N.W.

barcelonawinebar.com

Runner-up: Dito’s Bar at Floriana

Barcelona, gay news, Washington Blade

Barcelona (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)

Best Virginia Winery

Breaux Vineyards

Runner-up: Fox Meadow Winery

With an impressive array of awards, Breaux Vineyards is typically at the top of the list of Virginia wineries worth checking out, and it’s just 45 minutes from D.C. in Loudoun County, making it a great destination for a lazy Sunday afternoon. Of course, you’ll also find it well-represented in stores and restaurants across the city, from Glen’s Garden Market to Jack Rose Dining Saloon. Look for the Cabernet Franc, a peppery palate-pleaser with long notes of blackberry on the finish. (Kristen Hartke)

Breaux Vineyards

36888 Breaux Vineyards Lane, Purcellville, Va.

breauxvineyards.com

Breaux Vineyards (Photo courtesy Breaux)

Breaux Vineyards (Photo courtesy Breaux)

To see winners in other categories in the Washington Blade’s Best of Gay D.C. 2016 Awards, click here.

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Award-winning D.C. chef reaching new culinary heights

Anthony Jones of Marcus DC competing on ‘Top Chef’

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Anthony Jones (Photo by Joshua Foo)

In Anthony Jones’s kitchen, all sorts of flags fly, including his own. Executive chef at award-winning restaurant Marcus DC, Jones has reached culinary heights (James Beard Award semifinalist for Emerging Chef, anyone?), yet he’s just getting started. 

Briefly stepping away from his award-winning station, Jones took a moment under a different set of lights. Recently, he temporarily gave up his post at the restaurant for a starring small-screen slot on the latest season of “Top Chef,” which debuted in March. (The show airs weekly on Bravo and Peacock). 

Before his strategic slice-and-dice competition, however, Jones, who identifies as gay, draws from his deep DMV roots. In the years before “Top Chef” and the top chef spot at Marcus, he was born and raised in Sunderland, Md., in southern Maryland, near the Chesapeake.

Early memories were steeped in afternoons on boats with his dad bonding over fishing, and wandering the garden of his great-grandparents spread with fresh vegetables and a few hogs. “It was Southern, old-school ethics and upbringing,” he said. “Family and food went hand in hand.” Weekends meant grabbing bushels of crabs, dad and grandma would cook and crack them. Family members would host fish fries for extra cash. In this seafood-heavy youth, Jones managed time to sneak in episodes of the “OG” Japanese “Iron Chef” show, which helped inspire him to pursue a career in the kitchen.

Jones moved to D.C. after graduating from college, ending up at lauded Restaurant Eve, and met famed chef Marcus Samuelson, who brought him to Miami to be part of the opening team for Red Rooster Overtown. After three years, Jones moved back to D.C., where he ran Dirty Habit, reinventing and reimagining the menu, integrating West African flavors and ingredients.

Samuelson, however, wouldn’t let a talent like Jones stay away for too long. Pulling Jones back into his orbit, Samuelson elevated Jones to help him open his namesake restaurant Marcus DC, which has been named a top-five restaurant by the Washington Post. Since then, Jones has been nominated as a semifinalist for the RAMMYs Rising Culinary Star in 2026 and won the Eater DC’s Rising Chef award in 2025.

Samuelson’s Marcus is a tour de force interpreting the Black Diaspora on the plate, from the American South to West Africa, along with his signature “Swedopian” touches. Yet it’s Jones who has deeply informed the plate, elevating his own story to date. Marcus DC is primarily a seafood restaurant, which serves Jones well.

“Where I’m from is seafood heavy, and as I’ve progressed in my career, I’ve moved away from meat.” Veggies and fish are hero dishes. His own dish, Mel’s Crab Rice, was not only lauded by the Washington Post, but is framed by his youth carrying home the crustaceans from Mel’s crab truck. It’s a bowl of Carolina rice, layered with pickled okra, uni béarnaise, and crab. Jones also points to a dish on the opening menu, rockfish and brassica, paying respect to a landmark D.C. institution, Ben’s Chili Bowl. Jones reverse engineered a favorite bowl of chili that’s seafood instead of meat forward, leveraging octopus and rockfish along with different riffs of cauliflower: showing his intellectual, creative, and cultural sides.

While “Top Chef” is showing Jones’s spotlight side, he also lets his identity show at work. “In the kitchen, I make sure we’re inclusive. We don’t tolerate discrimination. Everyone that’s here should feel confident to express themselves. There are so many different flags in the kitchen.”

Jones says that he didn’t fully express his gay identity until fairly recently. He felt reluctant coming out to certain family members, “you’re scared to tell them about being different,” he says, and while that anxiety ate at him, “I’m lucky and fortunate to have unconditional love and that weight off my shoulders.”

Today, “I’m me all the time, Monday to Sunday. I’m honest with people, and my staff is honest with me.”

“Being a chef is hard,” he says, “and being a chef of color is even more difficult.”

Yet his LGBTQ identity is a juggling act, he says. “I need to keep that balance, because once someone finds out something about you, their opinion can change, whether you want it or not.”

Being on a whole season of TV cooking competition, however, might mean millions more might have an opinion of him (Jones has appeared on TV already, on an episode of “Chopped”). To prepare, he says, “I’ve just kept a level head. It’s just an honor to be on top chef with amazing people happy to be there.”

Plus, this season is set in the Carolinas, and Jones attended  Johnson & Wales University in Charlotte, N.C. “It’s a full story of my life, now a monumental moment for me.”

Jones also recently was nominated for a James Beard Foundation Award. “JBF has been a north star, a dream for so long. I always had this goal on my wall.”

Being at the top spot at Marcus DC, making waves through his accolades, and cooking on Bravo means that Jones is highly visible. “I think that if someone has a similar background to me, and can see our story, trajectory, and success, they can have more ability to be themselves. This is my goal.”

Back at Marcus, Jones has plenty up his chef’s white’s sleeves. A new spring menu is in the works. He’ll be launching a new tasting menu “dining experience,” he says, and has plans to work on more events and collaborations with chefs and friends to bring in new talent and share the culinary wealth.

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Movies

Trans-driven ‘Serpent’s Skin’ delivers campy sapphic horror

Embracing classic tropes with a candid exploration of queer experience

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Alexandra McVicker and Avalon Faust in ‘Serpent’s Skin.’ (Photo courtesy of Dark Star)

It’s probably no surprise that the last decade or so has seen a “renaissance” in horror cinema. Long underestimated and dismissed by critics and ignored by all the awards bodies as genre films, horror movies were deemed for generations as unworthy of serious consideration; relegated into the realm of “fandom,” where generations of young movie fanatics were left to find deeper significance on their own, they have inspired countless future film artists whose creative vision would be shaped by their influence. Add to that the increasing state of existential anxiety that has us living like frogs in a slow-boiling pot, and it seems as if the evolution of horror into what might be our culture’s most resonant form of pop art expression was more or less inevitable all along.

Queer audiences, of course, have always understood that horror provides an ideal vehicle to express the “coded” themes that spring from existence as a stigmatized outsider, and while the rise of the genre as an art form has been fueled by filmmakers from every community, the transgressive influence of queerness – particularly when armed with “camp,”  its most surefire means of subversion – has played an undeniable role in building a world where movies like “Sinners” and “Weapons” can finally be lauded at the Oscars for their artistic qualities as well as celebrated for their success at providing paying audiences with a healthy jolt of adrenaline.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, the boldest and most biting entries are coming from trans filmmakers like Jane Schoenbrun (“I Saw the TV Glow”) – and like Australian director Alice Maio Mackay, whose new film “The Serpent’s Skin” opened in New York last weekend and expands to Los Angeles this week.

Described in a review from RogerEbert.com as “a kind of ‘Scanners’ for the dolls,” it’s a movie that embraces classic horror tropes within a sensibility that blends candid exploration of trans experience with an obvious love for camp. It centers on twenty-something trans girl Anna (Alexandra McVicker), who escapes the toxic environment of both her dysfunctional household and her conservative hometown by running away to the “Big City” and moving in with her big sister (Charlotte Chimes). On her first night in town, she connects with Danny (Jordan Dulieu), a neighbor (the only “hottie” in the building, according to her sister) who plays guitar in a band and ticks off all her “edgy” boxes, and has a one-night stand.

The very next day, she starts a new job at a record store, where she connects – through an intense and unexpected incident – with local tattoo artist Gen (Avalon Faust), a young woman she has seen in psychic visions, and who has been likewise drawn to her. The reason? They are both “witches,” born with abilities that give them a potentially deadly power over ordinary humans, and bound together in an ancient supernatural legacy.

It goes without saying that they fall in love; together, they teach and learn from each other as they try to master the mysterious magical gifts they both possess; but when Danny coincidentally books Gen for a tattoo inspired by his earlier “fling” with Anna, an ancient evil is unleashed, leading to a string of horrific incidents and forcing them to confront the dark influences within their own traumatic histories which may have conjured this malevolent spirit in the first place, before it wreaks its soul-stealing havoc upon the entire community.

Confronting the theme of imposed trans “guilt” head on, “Serpent’s Skin” emanates from a softer, gentler place than most horror films, focusing less on scares than on the sense of responsibility which seems naturally to arise just from being “different.”. Both McVicker and Faust bring a palpable feeling of weight to their roles, as if their characters are carrying not only their own fate upon their shoulders, but that of the world at large; blessed (or cursed) with a layer of awareness that both elevates and isolates them, their characters evoke a haunting sense of responsibility, which permeates their relationship and supersedes their personal desires. At the same time, they bring a mix of respect and eroticism to the sapphic romance at the center of the film, evoking a connection to the transgressive and iconic “lesbian noir” genre but replacing its sense of amoral cynicism with an imperative toward empathy and social responsibility.

All of this helps to make the film’s heroines relatable, and raises the stakes by investing us not just in the defeat of supernatural evil, but the triumph of love. Yet we can’t help but feel that there’s something lost – a certain edge, perhaps – that might have turned up the heat and given the horror a more palpable bite. Though there are moments of genuine fright, most of the “scary” stuff is campy enough to keep us from taking things too seriously – despite the best efforts of the charismatic Dulieu, who literally sinks his teeth into his portrayal of the possessed version of Danny.

More genuinely disturbing are the movie’s scenes of self-harm, which both underscore and indict the trope of trans “victimhood” while reminding us of the very real fear at the center of many trans lives, especially when lived under the oppression of a mindset that deplores their very existence.

Still, though Mackay’s film may touch on themes of queer and trans existence and build its premise on a kind of magical bond that makes us all “sisters under the skin,” it is mostly constructed as a stylish tribute to the classic thrillers of an earlier age, evoking the psychological edge of directors like Hitchcock and DePalma while embracing the lurid “shock value” of the B-movie horror that shaped the vision of a modern generation of filmmakers who grew up watching it – and even if it never quite delivers the kind of scares that linger in our minds as we try to go to sleep at night, it makes up for the shortfall with a smart, sensitive, and savvy script and a rare depiction of trans/lesbian love that wins us over with chemistry, emotional intelligence, and enviable solidarity.

What makes “The Serpent’s Skin” feel particularly remarkable is that it comes from a 21-year-old filmmaker. Mackey, who built the foundation of her career behind the camera with a series of low-budget horror shorts in her teens, has already made an impact with movies ranging from the vampire horror comedy “So Vam” (released when she was 16) to the horror musical “Satanic Panic” and the queer holiday shockfest “Carnage for Christmas”. With her latest effort, she deploys a confidence and a style that encompasses both the deep psychological nuance of the horror genre and its guilty-pleasure thrills, rendered in an aesthetic that is grounded in intimate queer and trans authenticity and yet remains daring enough to take detours into the surreal and psychedelic without apology.

It’s the kind of movie that feels like a breakthrough, especially in an era when it feels especially urgent for trans stories to be told.

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Photos

PHOTOS: ‘No Kings’ rally and march

Demonstrators in Anacostia join nationwide protests

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Demonstrators in a "No Kings" protest march toward the Frederick Douglass Bridge in Washington, D.C. on Saturday, March 28. (Washington Blade photo by Michael Key)

A “No Kings” demonstration was held in Anacostia on Saturday to protest the Trump administration. Speakers at the rally included LGBTQ activist, Rayceen Pendarvis. Following the rally, demonstrators marched across the Frederick Douglass Memorial Bridge.

(Washington Blade photos and videos by Michael Key)

Activist Rayceen Pendarvis speaks at the ‘No Kings’ rally in Anacostia on Saturday, March 28.
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